The process of making clothes is fascinating, and each of us can find a lot of interesting things in it for ourselves. To make wardrobe items, clothing design and modeling are used.
The process of creating clothes
First, the clothes are modeled, and the design of the clothes is the second stage in its creation. This process allows you to draw up a drawing of the future product and make patterns according to which cutting will take place. Patterns are templates for clothing parts that are made from cardboard, paper, film, wallpaper and other materials.
There are differences in the design of clothing for mass and individual tailoring. When mass tailoring, the following requirements are imposed: clothes must be made according to precise calculations, the patterns must be correct. The design of men's clothing assumes that the manufactured products will fit well on the body, will be comfortable to wear and will be easy to care for, and will fit well on the person's figure.
Modeling
The basis for producing quality sewing products is modeling. This is an art that requires special knowledge, and many strive to master it.
The design and modeling of clothing works directly with the person. It's no secret that with the help of a properly selected suit you can significantly change the perception of a person.
Modeling begins with preparation. At this stage, the fashion designer decides who will wear this model of clothing, what it is intended for, and what materials will be used to make it. Having decided on the answers to these questions, the artist creates a sketch.
There are certain requirements for all sketches. This is clarity and completeness, the complete embodiment of the artistic concept. Also, if the model will be produced under conditions, it makes sense to find out how cost-effective it will be to produce it. And after that, the design of clothes begins. This is the sequence of the creative process.
Clothing construction methods
The creative process of creating clothes has deep roots. It is known that clothing design has a long history, and various methods have been developed over the centuries. There are two large groups of clothing design methods: approximate and engineering.
Approximate methods can also be different. The oldest of them are considered to be dummy ones, when measurements are made on a human figure or using a mannequin.
It must be said that the design of clothing in the usual sense began to take shape only in the twentieth century; before that, precise measurements for fit on the figure simply did not exist. Clothes were created using folds and folds.
Clothing design methods began to develop in the early nineteenth century, when the London cutter Michel came up with the first "grid" for clothing drawings. He applied the principle of scale: the original drawing was divided into cells with the same side, and it could be increased or decreased at will. In 1840, the famous cutting system of G. A. Muller arose, who used the principle of spherical trigonometry to construct a drawing.
In 1959, the design and modeling of clothing was studied by the central experimental-technical sewing laboratory, which applied it. Its disadvantage is that the graphic constructions in it are cumbersome, the accuracy of constructing the base is relative, and it is difficult to choose allowances for a loose fit.
Modern design methods
In recent years, engineering methods have become increasingly widespread. Many believe that in the future all measurements will be carried out using a 3D mannequin. This method will include the method of developable surfaces, the method of secant surfaces, and the triangulation method.
Computer-aided manufacturing (CAD) is now widely used to design clothing. It is based on techniques that were once developed by Michael Müller, a famous German tailor. Nowadays the Lyubax cutting system is also used, which involves visually measuring the figure before creating a pattern.
Designing children's clothing
Children's clothing is designed on the same principles as clothing for adults, but it requires knowledge of the physical and psychological development child. Not only artists and fashion designers, but also pediatricians, educators and teachers take part in the development of the concept of children's clothing.
When modeling and designing children's clothing, the ratio of different children is of great importance. Therefore, all children for whom clothes are created are divided into five groups.
This is a nursery group (up to 3 years old), a preschool group (up to six years old), a junior school group, which includes children from seven to eleven years old, a teenage group, which includes children from twelve to fifteen years old. There is also a youth group, which includes children from sixteen to eighteen years old.
There are a number of requirements for children's clothing. It should warm in the cold and cool in the heat, and protect from bad weather. Due to the fact that children wear out clothes quickly, it is recommended to sew them from inexpensive materials. Folk art is often used for creation; it is inexhaustible for master fashion designers.
Patterns as a unit of measurement
The main unit of measurement in modeling and design is the pattern. They are the following types: original patterns, control and working ones.
The basis for creating any costume is a basic pattern. An experienced specialist can identify the clothing manufacturer at first glance, taking into account the quality of the basic pattern. The patterns are created taking into account all the features of the human figure.
Nowadays, when creating patterns, specialists turn to modern technologies, especially computers. Using computers in pattern making has its advantages. So, this is an opportunity to accurately adapt patterns to the characteristics of a particular opportunity to show the result of the work to the client at any stage. This type of pattern can be used much longer than paper ones; they do not wear out and cannot be replaced.
A pattern made electronically makes it possible to virtually lay out material on fabric, which can simplify the cutting process.
Modeling by Burda Moden
Various systems for modeling and designing clothing have not helped create clothing that is comfortable for the majority of the population. And then Burda Moden magazine came to the rescue.
The magazine has made a name for itself in such a field as design women's clothing. He entered the fashion arena in the post-World War II period. At this time, not all women had the money to buy new beautiful clothes, but everyone wanted to look stylish.
In 1950, Burda Moden magazine was published and immediately attracted attention. Now it remains popular, this is due to the fact that the magazine reflects current trends in the fashion world. Moreover, all models are adapted to real life, and you can immediately sew the model and use it.
By designing clothing we mean creating a drawing-development of the surface of the human body with given allowances for freedom and drawing model lines. The purpose of industrial design is to develop a flat drawing or development of a product. Gathered flat cut pieces create a voluminous shell finished product.
When developing a design, it is necessary to take into account the aesthetic parameters of clothing and at the same time comply with the technical requirements of individual or mass tailoring.
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A design is a drawing that clearly demonstrates the arrangement of parts, silhouette, cut, model lines of a sewing or knitted product. The quality of finished clothing depends on the accuracy of the measurements taken or the standards taken as a basis, on the quality of the calculations and on the chosen design methodology.
The basic drawing contains model lines, displaying the cutting features and details that are characteristic of a particular model. A correctly designed and simulated design of a garment must have certain characteristics.
- Comply with the designer’s idea in shape, proportions and details.
- Provide wearing comfort due to the right choice increases and taking into account the properties of the fabric.
- The technological subtleties of cutting and sewing assembly must be taken into account.
- Ensure balance and separation of parts.
- Have the possibility of subsequent repetition in patterns to create new similar models.
The implementation of these requirements is possible with correct reading of the technical drawing, exactly taken measurements and taking into account the characteristics of the selected fabric.
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To create a design, you need to carefully study the drawing, analyze the proportions and details. Then measurements are taken from the figure or standard parameters are taken, including the length of the product.
Scheme of construction
- Building the foundation.
- Designation of baselines.
- Drawing model features of a specific model.
For practical application in the modern domestic and world school of cutting, two fundamental systems are used:
- fake;
- calculation and graphic.
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Each cutting technique has features and characteristics. Some clothing design systems and methods do not take into account the deformation properties of materials and the deployment accuracy class. Others require high-tech equipment. When creating clothing drawings, international and domestic schools use methods that work with development patterns. In all methods, a flat drawing is constructed that describes a three-dimensional three-dimensional human figure. Then it is finalized using mock-ups and fittings.
History of design methods
Dummy methods
Historically, the first method of cutting clothes was a dummy method of pinning fabric onto a living figure. The principle is to pin fabric onto a static torso or mannequin, indicating a change in planes and creating constructive and modeling lines. Then the contours and selected volumes are transferred to paper. The cut material is assembled into a product, followed by fitting to clarify the lines on a static figure or mannequin.
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This method is also called the mock-up method (or the pinning method), as it is used to make mock-ups of the first samples of the product using pins.
The dummy method is used in modern design for modeling:
- unique items of clothing level “ haute couture”;
- complex cut products with draperies and complex shaped details;
- models for non-standard figure;
- models of cut and outer knitwear;
- corsetry;
- historical costume.
The advantage of the prototyping method is the ability to take into account the features of the figure and specifications fabrics – drapability and plasticity. It makes it possible to see the shape and proportions of the product before it is assembled without preliminary calculations. At the same time, the tattooing method requires special knowledge - the principles of visual perception, the basics of design and the features of a specific technique.
Calculation and graphic methods
Calculation and graphic methods for constructing clothing designs arose at the beginning of the 19th century. They were created by tailors who transferred the experience of hand-cutting and working with a living figure into simple formulas. Calculation methods began to be used in individual tailoring, then found their practical application in mass production during the industrialization of the 20th century. Different countries and masters had their own methods based on specific experience.
- Drittel system
Already in 1800, the British cutter Michel created his own “Drittel” cutting principle. He based it on the measurement of chest circumference. The cutter divided half the chest circumference into three parts, constructing a rectangle in each, which was then unfolded into the piece. His method was quite progressive and made it possible to repeat similar objects of different sizes.
On the basis of the Drittel grid, a cellular system for creating a drawing was then created, which later made it possible to systematize European techniques.
- French system
After the introduction of the metric system in Europe, tailors began using measuring tape as it is known today. At the same time, a method for constructing parts based on horizontal measurements was created in France. Even then, a drawing gradation based on one basic size was developed. At the same time, the French system did not take into account the features of a non-standard figure and height.
- German “Muller & Sohn”
G.A. Muller in 1840 created a new system for cutting parts. His technique for the first time took into account the fact that a figure is a complex three-dimensional figure. To take measurements, Muller used the principle of trigonometry. When constructing the structure, arc notches were made with a compass on three sides of the triangles.
The Muller & Sohn design school successfully exists today and is used all over the world, including Russia.
- Design methodology of TsNIISHP EMKO SEV
With the advent of industrialization and the need to provide for the population through mass production, a systematization of schools and principles of construction arose. Individual measurements were replaced by standard ones and calculations of correlated characteristics from the main measurements of the figure.
Gradually, a new coordinate proportional-calculation system emerged, which took into account standard measurements and calculated proportions. The authors of various methods continued to accept different body configurations as the norm.
In the USSR, in 1934, the Korotkov design system was created, which was intended for mass production of sewing assortments. This system was periodically supplemented taking into account updated and supplemented population measurements, which gave a clearer relationship between the dimensional characteristics of various typologies of figures.
As a result of many years of systematization of knowledge, in 1956 the Central Research Institute of the Garment Industry developed a standard domestic design method. Friendly CMEA member countries helped and participated in measuring the population and improving the system. As a result of massive research, the classic cutting and modeling technique of the TsNIISHP EMKO SEV was implemented.
The research institute continued to work to improve a unified methodology for all types of clothing. The new recommendations took into account certain standards in measurements, their dependence and allowances for freedom of movement and model assumptions. Official documents were developed that recommended increases and allowances depending on the range of clothing, the properties of materials, the technologies and equipment introduced.
However, changes in fashion trends and manufacturing technologies occurred faster than government agencies issued documents for the production of drawings, modeling and additions.
Engineering methods
Engineering methods are based on solving the problem of differential geometry about covering the surface, taking into account the ability of the material to change the angle between the perpendicular threads of the weft and warp.
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Triangulation method
All engineering systems for creating structures are based on the principle of surface development volumetric figure and construction of a flat drawing. The triangulation method consists of dividing the surface into large triangles. The method requires mandatory verification of the design on primary samples.
Cutting plane method
The method was created in the USSR in 1954 and is based on obtaining a development using the principles of descriptive geometry. The plane of a figure is conventionally equated to a geometric surface that unfolds into a plane.
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Geodetic line method
The principle consists of drawing lines on the surface of a volumetric figure and modeling planar developments of parts. Currently, the method is used in scanning three-dimensional objects.
Method for calculating part developments based on samples
It is based on the so-called “Chebyshev networks” on a volumetric surface along orthogonal geodetic axes. The warp and weft threads of some mesh material are attached to them. The resulting Chebyshev network is laid in rectangular coordinate axes to obtain a flat surface development.
Modern practically applied techniques
TsOTSHL
IN practical work For the construction of basic drawings and modeling of garment designs in the USSR and Russia in recent decades, predominantly domestic techniques have been used.
- EMKO TsNIISHP, created for mass sewing production.
- Capacity for individual items of clothing. It was developed at the Central Experimental Technological Sewing Laboratory based on the TsNIISHP system.
These calculation and graphic methods are characterized by simplified formulas for calculating the basic drawing and not a large number of figure measurements. It was analyzed and noted that for a female figure, characterized by a straight posture, low shoulder slopes and fuller than standard arms, clothing produced with the help of the Central Scientific Research Institute of Shipping is suitable. For figures who have a straight posture, average shoulder position, fairly slender arms and moderately developed mammary glands - TsOTSHL.
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EMKO SEV
Also, in the mass production of garments in the CIS, the Unified Methodology is used, which was created in the 80s. The methodology summarized the measurements, cutting and modeling experience of the member countries of the former CMEA. The EMKO SEV method was the first to create the system computer-aided design clothes. The technique is used in Russia and Eastern Europe. It has been noticed that EMKO SEV works well for figures with relatively normal posture and somewhat low shoulder position.
"Muller & Sohn"
The advantages of the modern German school of cutting “Muller & Sohn” lie in the optimal small number of basic measurements, the possibility of use in both individual and mass production of clothing. The required measurements are calculated based on the basic measurements of the figure.
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From the point of view of specificity and better fit of the figure, “Muller & Sohn” works well when creating an assortment for thin European-type figures with high shoulders and undefined gluteal muscles.
VDMTI
To create drawings and designs of knitwear, the All-Union House of Models has developed its own VDMTI methodology, which is used by modern Russian specialists. It uses formulas that take into account the stretchability and minus increases characteristic of knitwear. The technique works for both underwear and outerwear of various weaves. In addition to the classical method, knitwear designers take into account the prototyping method to clarify the fit and stretchability of new fabrics that have not been studied in the laboratory.
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In modern design, three-dimensional creation of development drawings is also used, which, obviously, is the future of clothing. This method is used exclusively with the use of computer programs and has a fairly high accuracy.
Stages of the three-dimensional method
- Development of a three-dimensional model after capturing three-dimensional anthropometric data of a figure through scanning.
- Development of flat drawings of parts by unfolding three-dimensional models.
Despite the existence of various schools of clothing design, in practical applications both the latest computer programs that take into account several systems and traditional manual construction techniques are used. The method of prototyping or tattooing is actively used to create unique models and in fitting sour cream samples to clarify the details of the cut.
Some specialists use mixed techniques:
- creating a drawing base based on classical calculation methods and finishing the modeling lines using the tattooing method;
- creating the basis for the design of a new model using prototyping and final modeling on a paper drawing.
There are a number of design techniques designed to create patterns, which take into account the seam reserves specified and determined by the technology, with the application of cutting lines and the creation of notches. A variety of techniques and systems are used that perform computer grading or reproduction of patterns by size and height based on one basic design.
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Thus, to obtain the ideal design of a product, you can use either one technique or combine several cutting and modeling options. The practical choice of design methodology depends on the preferences of a particular sewing school and the specialization of the department of sewing educational institutions.
01:14 Unknown 4 Comments
Hello, dear readers!
Without a proper cut, any clothing looks unsightly - poor fit on the figure, creases or tension in the fabric - all this spoils the appearance of the sewn product.
Therefore, in the process of creating clothes, the leading role is occupied by the design of clothes, the main task of which is to ensure the correct fit of the product on the figure.
Clothing design- this is the development of drawings of details (lakala) of clothing for an individual or standard figure. The connected parts of the product are called design
. For example: the front, back and sleeves are details
and a blouse is a construction of connected parts of the front, back and sleeves.
Clothing construction arose with the advent of tailored clothing. The simplest design was considered to be the clothing of the ancient Greeks and Romans, which consisted of pieces of fabric of various lengths and widths.
The development of cut began with the creation of tight-fitting clothing to distinguish between male and female beauty. The clothes now have side seams and a center seam on the back.
As man and society developed, the shapes and styles of clothing improved, and systems and cutting techniques emerged in design. Today in the clothing industry there are dozens of design methods, which can be divided into three categories:
Calculation and graphic method
engineering method.
Dummy method is a method of creating clothing by laying out fabric on a human figure or on a mannequin. From a piece of fabric (often this fabric is muslin) a product is formed according to an artistic design, giving the product a shape through folds or darts, cutting off excess fabric, marking the position of the design lines and thus obtaining patterns. This technique allows you to create cut details for a specific human figure, taking into account all its features.
The dummy method is considered costly, as a large amount of tissue is cut off.
At the core engineering method lies the principle of unfolding volumetric surfaces onto a plane, i.e., a drawing of a clothing design is an unfolded shell of a future product. To give you an idea of what a surface development is, look at the picture of unfolded geometric surfaces.
But not all surfaces can be turned flat, so they resort to the method of folding and breaking the surface - in the design of clothing these are darts, seams, pulling or tucking the fabric. There are several techniques for engineering the design of clothing, which differ in the way the surfaces are deployed. Engineering techniques are used in three-dimensional design of clothing, which allows you to unfold surfaces on the monitor screen and obtain ready-made drawings of clothing parts.
The engineering design method is mainly used for scientific research, solving problems of existing methods and for developing designs for mass-produced products.
All methods of clothing design differ in the accuracy of the cut; engineering is among the most accurate. The development of clothing designs is carried out by designers who have knowledge of anatomy and anthropometry, methods of clothing design, understand the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics, and much more. As a rule, professional designers work in factories for mass production of clothing, in fashion houses, ateliers and designer workshops.
In individual tailoring, most often the design of clothing is not developed due to the fact that many clothing models do not have significant differences in the design of the main details, cut, they differ only in model features.
And a large number of clothing models can be represented by a limited number of basic designs. Therefore, in individual tailoring, the calculation and graphic method is most often used, in which many techniques have been developed for creating basic designs. And the basic patterns are already modeled in accordance with the model features of the future product.
Clothes modeling- this is a change in the design lines of the basic drawing of the product under new model of any complexity.
Construction lines- these are contour lines of parts (mainly seams), dividing the surface of clothing into separate parts (parts), creating its three-dimensional shape and characterizing its appearance.
The significant difference between designing and modeling clothing is that in modeling the design drawing is not built, but modified. I will give as an example my modeling experience, using a drawing of the basic design of a dress and the laws of modeling, I received three completely different dresses.
To summarize the above, I would like to add that, of course, having a special education in clothing design is a big plus, but for beginners in sewing and for those who simply sew for themselves, it is more convenient and simpler to use existing calculation and graphic methods - take measurements and substitute them into formulas on the basis of which to construct a drawing. But a logical question arises: what methodology should I choose to build a basic structure? Any experienced seamstress will tell you that it is best to use several techniques. For example, many people use the EMKO method for sewing shoulder products, and “Muller and Son” for waist ones, and some even combine several methods to build one design. But I found the best answer to this question in Oksana Tsareva’s blog, where she talked about her diploma work, in which one of the points was a comparative analysis of various methods of designing clothes. Having selected the five most popular methods, Oksana used them to build the design of the same model of clothing and sew it for the same person. As a result, it was impossible to distinguish the finished clothing models by what method they were cut, and the fit in all cases was almost the same. Therefore, it is not so important what method you use to build basic patterns, what is more important is - take measurements correctly, determine your body type and make the right allowances for a loose fit.
As I fill out the blog, I will try to consider several methods for constructing various basic designs, but for now you can use Tatyana Roslyakova’s technique for constructing a pattern for the base of a dress.
Design is the process of developing model drawings of product parts and making patterns (patterns). Patterns are called patterns of clothing parts, according to which materials are cut; they can be made of paper, cardboard, metal.
Design is the structure of a product from individual parts connected into a single harmonious whole.
The problem of shaping, which is solved when designing clothes, is to create a complex volumetric shape of the product in flat materials - fabrics, knitwear, etc. When developing a design, the volumetric shape of the product must be unfolded on a plane; to obtain developments, the surface of the clothing is first cut into parts. The division lines of clothing into parts are located along lines of symmetry, the boundaries of areas with different surface characteristics. Thus, a vertical line of symmetry divides the figure into left and right halves, the lines of the shoulder and side seams separate the chest area of the body from the back, the lines of the neckline and armholes of the body from the neck and arms.,
Clothing created industrially must have properties that satisfy the highest consumer requirements placed on it as an item of personal use. At the same time, clothing is subject to requirements as an object of mass production - its shape must be rational from the point of view of the possibility of using engineering methods for its design and advanced industrial methods for its manufacture.
Therefore, when designing clothing, we proceed from the following most important requirements for its design.
1. The design must ensure the reproduction of the product in exact accordance with the primary sample. The correspondence of products to the model in shape, silhouette, design lines, finishing depends on the accuracy of the patterns, therefore special attention is paid to their shape and size during design.
2. The design should contribute to the creation of the most important functional properties of clothing - compliance with the shape and size of the human body, ease of use, providing comfortable conditions for the human body, increasing its wear resistance, increasing service life, etc.
In order to ensure that clothing sizes correspond to the measurements of people’s figures, when developing the design, the dimensional characteristics of the most common typical figures are used. Dimensional characteristics of typical figures of men, women, boys and girls used in the design of clothing are given in industry standards. Good fit of the product on the figure is included in the design drawings and depends on the correctness of the relevant calculations.
Ease of use of the product and the creation of comfortable conditions for the human body depend on the correct development of clothing designs - taking into account body measurements, choosing allowances for a loose fit, shape, size and relative position of parts, location of fasteners, pockets, taking into account the most important hygienic properties of clothing materials
When developing a design, external loads are taken into account that act on individual components and parts of clothing and cause distortion of its shape. Therefore, in each case, such a design scheme of the product is chosen, such a division of it into parts under which the “working” conditions of the parts and materials in all areas of the clothing are most favorable. To increase the wear resistance of clothing, the designer must provide various additional parts that absorb part of the external loads (side padding in the fronts of coats, jackets, jackets, lining of the front halves of trousers, padding or braid along the edges of products and in the folds of parts - the edges of the sides, the bottoms of trousers and etc.).
3. The design of clothing must ensure the economic feasibility of the product in mass production; the design of clothing must be economical and technologically advanced.
Since the share of materials in the cost of clothing is at least 85-90%, the problem of reducing the material intensity of products becomes important. This product design is economical, providing for both minimal consumption and minimal waste of materials.
A technologically advanced design of clothing is one that provides for minimal labor costs for the manufacture of the product through the use of the most advanced technology with high labor productivity and high quality products. The manufacturability of the design depends on the continuity of models, typification, unification, standardization of structural elements, improvement of design, etc. Continuity of models consists in the use of previously developed variants of part designs in new models. It is implemented by developing a “family” of models on the same constructive basis. Typification is the replacement of the variety of design solutions for products with the minimum required number of standard designs. The use of standard designs helps to improve clothing technology and save materials. Standard design without damage to appearance and product quality can be unified, i.e. bring individual components and parts to uniformity, for example, parts of pockets, gaskets, etc. Normalization and standardization - the establishment of uniform standards for sizes for standardized parts. The design is usually improved by eliminating some seams, for example, along the edges of the sides, collar, and front seam of the sleeves.
Currently, there are many clothing design systems. Existing design methods, which are decisive in the product design process, are divided into approximate and engineering.
TO approximate design methods include calculation-graphical and other methods. All these methods, based on the use of anthropological measurements of the figure and allowances, do not provide high accuracy and manufacturability in accordance with the requirements of modern clothing production.
Engineering methods for designing part developments clothes are more advanced and accurate. They are based on measurements of the surface of a clothing reference sample, as well as taking into account the dressing ability of clothing materials. Using engineering methods, it is possible to obtain developments of clothing parts of complex shapes, without resorting to a large number of seams, darts, or forced wet-heat treatment of fabrics.
The most common are calculation and graphic methods, the essence of which boils down to performing simple calculations to determine the dimensions of patterns and constructing design drawings based on the obtained values. Each system is distinguished by a certain number of formulas and their structure (the first group includes formulas with the help of which the size of a part is determined taking into account the dimensional characteristic and the increase; the second group includes formulas with the help of which the dimensions of parts are determined by dimensional characteristics not related to this area, by establishing a relationship between the size of a given section of a part and one or two dimensions of the figure; the third group includes formulas by which the dimensions of individual sections of a part are determined by the dimensions of other sections previously found in the drawing).
The Unified Methodology for Clothing Design (UMKO CMEA) was created by the joint efforts of specialists from the CMEA member countries. It reflects optimal constructive solutions from the experience of socialist and advanced capitalist countries. The scientific basis of this technique is the results of joint anthropometric studies, calculation and analytical methods for constructing clothing patterns and a set of scientifically based allowances. This technique is universal, as it can be used to develop the design of clothing of any type, cut, purpose, from various materials.
In addition to computational and graphic methods, there are a number of engineering methods for designing clothing, more accurate and convenient, based on solving the geometric problem of dressing curved surfaces with flat materials. These methods, which take into account changes in the geometric structure of clothing materials when they fit the surface, contribute to improving the design and automation of clothing design using a computer.
Improving product design methods is impossible without detailed information about the shape and surface dimensions of both typical figures and clothing. The standards provide quantitative indicators (dimensional characteristics) of typical figures. But they do not give an idea of the plastic patterns of the selected typical figures, or of the curvature of individual parts of the body. For example, two figures of the same gender and age group, having the same chest girth, may have a different shape of the body surface in this area, different posture. And information about the shape of the surface of the figures is decisive for the development of the design of high-quality products.
Therefore, improving the quality of products should be carried out by restructuring the process of their design, reviewing the principles of shaping. A comprehensive solution to this problem is possible with layout-model method of clothing design. This method is based on the use of sculptural models of the shape of the clothing surface, which eliminates the need for labor-intensive operations to depict the surface on paper and the production of a large number of drawings. It allows you to significantly reduce the time needed to design clothing and reveals ample opportunities for the application of mathematical design methods using a computer.
The use of computers in clothing design is very effective at its final stages (drawing and technical reproduction of patterns, performing complex engineering calculations, etc.). In recent years, when designing clothing using computers, a transition has been made from performing individual engineering calculations to creating complex computer-aided design (CAD) systems.
The internal shape of clothing and its linear measurements are determined by the shape and size of the human body. As a rule, any clothing measurement is larger than the corresponding dimensional characteristic of the figure by a certain amount, called allowance. Allowance is given for a loose fit and decorative design clothes. The shape of the clothing, silhouette, and compliance with the sample largely depend on how correctly the allowance values are selected and set when developing its design.
Corsetry (belt, bra, etc.) must fit very tightly to the body. The shape and size of such products are equal to the corresponding body measurements, and sometimes smaller than them, as a result of which these products deform certain areas of the figure (stomach, chest), giving it greater harmony.
The rest of the products fit unevenly to the body: in some areas it is more or less tight, and in others it is loose. Thus, shoulder products fit tightly in the upper part, on the so-called supporting surface of the body (shoulders, upper chest and back to the most protruding points of the chest and shoulder blades); in these areas, clothing most closely matches the shape and size of the body. Below the supporting surface, the clothing is located freely, forming an air gap necessary for freedom of human movement, regulation of heat transfer and creation of shape and silhouette in accordance with the model.
Allowances for a loose fit are provided both in the width of the product (along the lines of the neck, chest, waist, hips, armhole, neckline, etc.) and along the length. The allowances for loose fitting in different areas of clothing are not the same and depend on the type of clothing, model (silhouette, shape, decoration), properties of materials (stretchability, elasticity, molding properties), etc. The allowances for loose fitting in different areas of clothing are given in design techniques.
An allowance for a loose fit can be conventionally represented as consisting of two parts: the minimum required allowance for a loose fit and a decorative and constructive one. The minimum required allowance for a loose fit, regardless of the degree of fit, should ensure freedom of breathing and human movement, minimal pressure of the product on the body, the presence of an air gap for skin breathing and regulation of heat transfer. The values of this allowance were established on the basis of studies of changes in body size in dynamics and a study of the microclimate parameters of the underwear layer at various sizes of air gaps. So, this allowance along the chest line for a dress, jacket and jacket is 2.5 cm, for a coat - at least 5-6 cm. With the help of a decorative and constructive allowance, a certain silhouette and the necessary volume-spatial shape of clothing are created.
When developing a design, it is necessary to include an allowance for the thickness of clothing materials: basic, cushioning, heat-protective. Allowances for a loose fit along the lines of the chest, waist, hips are added to the allowance for the thickness of the materials and composite allowances are obtained. The values of compositional allowances established for each type of clothing, depending on fashion.
In addition to compositional allowances, the design of clothing includes allowances for seams and for hemming the edges of clothing. When developing the design of products, it is necessary to take into account the possible shrinkage of the material during the manufacturing process of clothing. For this purpose, the length of the product and individual sections of the structure is increased by the size of the fabric allowance equal to 50% of the total shrinkage of the material. So, if the total shrinkage of the fabric is 2%, then the allowance for fabric processing is equal to 1% of the length of this section of the structure.
The general dimensions of the product and the dimensions of its parts in various areas (along the lines of the chest, waist, hips, bottom) are laid down in the basic grid of the base drawing. The most important lines of the grid are: horizontal - lines of the back neckline, chest (armhole depth); waist, hips, bottom of the product; vertical - the line of the middle of the back, the lines that determine the width of the back, shelves, and the half-skid line, which coincides with the axis of symmetry of the torso of the human figure. The distances between these lines in the drawing are determined depending on the measurements of the figure and the corresponding allowances. When constructing a drawing of the base, contour lines of parts, lines of darts, cuts, pockets, etc. are applied to the resulting mesh.
The upper contour lines are the back neckline (the line connecting the collar to the back of the product), the shoulder sections of the back and front, the armhole (the line connecting the sleeves With product), front neck (the line connecting the collar to the front). The fit of the product on the figure depends on the correct construction of these lines. The shape and dimensions of the upper contour lines must correspond to the shape and dimensions of the human body, since the upper part of the product must fit snugly to the supporting surface.
The parameters of the back neck line are calculated based on the measurement of the neck circumference. To fit the figure well, the upper part of the back of the product should have a shape that matches the convexity of the shoulder blades. Therefore, in the shoulder section of the back, it is necessary to create a convexity using a tuck or seating of the fabric by forced ironing.
The quality of the fit of the product on the figure is directly affected by the relative position of the upper contours of the back and the shelf. The ratio of the level of the back at the neck point and the level of the shelf at the point of the top of the neck is the most important element design and is called balance, which characterizes the balance of the front and rear parts of the product. Balance is calculated using formulas depending on the measurements of the figure: chest, neck, distance from the base of the neck to the waist in front and behind. Balance can be either a positive or negative value, and according to this, the apex point of the neck may be located above or below . If the balance is correctly calculated and provided for in the drawing, the product fits freely on the figure, its back and front do not pull each other.
The convex shape of the shelf in the chest area is given with the help of darts and wet-heat treatment. In women's clothing, a dart can be provided in the shoulder, side sections, armhole, and its inner end (top) is located at the protruding point of the chest. IN men's clothing the dart is placed in the neckline section and the shelf is ironed along the edge of the side of the product.
The armhole line, its shape, size and location largely determine the quality of the garment's construction. The correct construction of this line ensures freedom of movement of the arms, ease of putting on and taking off clothes, as well as a beautiful pairing of the sleeve with the product.
The half-skid line in the shelves of women's clothing is usually vertical. In men's clothing, the shape of this line is different and depends on the intended wet-heat treatment to form the necessary convexity in the chest area, on the size and fullness of the figure. In the upper part, above the armhole depth line, the half-skid line is deviated towards the armhole due to the curvature of the chest contour of the figure and designed ironing of the shelf.
The shape of the midline of the back is designed depending on the type of clothing and the presence of a seam in the middle of the back. If the back of the product is whole, then the middle line of the back is vertical and straight, since it should coincide with the warp thread of the fabric. In products that should fit the figure in the area of the shoulder blades, waist and hips, the middle line of the back is built with a bevel (sag) along the waist line.
The shape and location of the side seams in clothing are determined by its type, silhouette, the presence of darts, and the cut of the sleeves. Regardless of these factors, the side seams in the finished product must be vertical. In products of adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes, the shape of the side cuts of the shelf and back is curvilinear, corresponding to the contours of the figure, and in products of straight and free silhouettes, the side cuts are straight.
In clothes of close-fitting and semi-fitting silhouettes, the difference in the width of the product along the chest and waist lines is evenly distributed into the side seams and darts on the waist line of the product, the width of the product along the hips and hem lines is determined depending on the silhouette.
The finished shape of the sleeve should correspond to the shape of the arm, and it is determined by the shape of the concave line of the front fold and the convex line of the elbow. The same sleeve shape can be obtained from one, two or three of its constituent parts. Single-seam sleeves (consisting of one piece) are typical for linen and light clothing; They have one seam designed - the front or ulnar. A two-seam sleeve consists of top and bottom or front and back parts and has front and elbow or top and bottom seams, respectively. This sleeve is most common in outerwear. Both parts of the sleeves are built on a 6-day drawing so that they match each other in shape and size. A three-seam sleeve has three seams - top, bottom and elbow. The most important part in the drawing of a sleeve is its upper part - the okat. The edge must match the shape and size of the armhole. To ensure a good fit of the sleeve at the junction of the arm and the torso along its edge, provision is made for planting the material, for which the perimeter of the edge must be larger than the perimeter of the armhole. The difference in the perimeters of the collar and armhole (fabric fit) depends on the shape of the collar and the model, as well as on the properties of the material.
Line connecting the collar to the product called the collar stand cut line. It is taken as the basis for constructing a drawing of the lower collar; its perimeter should be equal to the sum of the lengths of the neck of the back and the shelf. The position of the collar in the product depends on the shape of the stand-up cut line: the straighter it is, the closer the collar is to the neck (stand-up collar). If the shape of the cut of the stand coincides with the shape of the neck, the collar will be flat (lying). The width of the collar and the shape of its ends depend on the model. The shape and fold line of the collar of jackets should correspond to the shape of the neckline and the fold line of the lapel.
Patterns for the main parts are made according to their drawings, providing seam allowances and hems in accordance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation and the features of the model. In areas where wet-heat treatment of the fabric is necessary (pulling, ironing, etc.) or where folds and gathers are provided, appropriate signs are placed. Control marks are placed along the sections of parts at the places where they are connected, which must be aligned when connected. Based on the obtained patterns of the main parts, patterns of derivative parts are made (upper collar, hem, pocket details, lining, etc.) taking into account allowances for processing.
The developed design is checked by manufacturing a control sample of the product according to the obtained patterns. During the manufacturing process of the sample, the necessary refinements are made to the design in accordance with progressive methods of technological processing of the product and the figure of the model. Then, using the specified patterns of average size and height (length), patterns of all other sizes and lengths of products are made (technical reproduction of patterns). Patterns of all sizes and heights are obtained by proportionally decreasing or increasing the size of patterns of average size and height. During the technical reproduction of patterns for the transition from size to size or from height to height, sections of the patterns of parts of average size and height give certain inter-dimensional and inter-height increments.
The design of clothing ends with the development of technical descriptions (technical specifications) for the model. Technical descriptions include the following sections: sketch and description of the appearance of the product; recommended sizes and lengths; list of recommended materials, including finishing and fittings (specifications and configuration card); a table of measurements of the finished product, which shows the absolute values for the main measurement locations of the finished product and the permissible deviations from them; recommended methods for processing individual complex components of the product; technical requirements for the quality of the product; tables characterizing processing complexity; rules for quality control, determination of product grade, packaging and transportation of the product (list of regulatory and technical documentation). In addition, the technical descriptions provide: the rate of material consumption for a product of medium size and length; specification of parts and patterns; pattern measurements table; area of product patterns of medium size and length.
Technical descriptions, together with a set of patterns and a standard sample of the product, are sent to the enterprise for replication.
The design methods used in industry for knitted products are generally similar to the methods used to design fabric products. The main distinctive properties of knitwear are not only stretchability, but also great possibilities for shaping. Thanks to the movable loop structure, the fabric easily takes on a complex spatial shape in the product. Changes in the linear dimensions (longitudinal and transverse) of knitted fabrics (shrinkage) are caused by many factors related to the characteristics of the fabric itself (composition and quality of raw materials, structure of the fabric), with the technical modes of its production, finishing and storage, with the technological processes of preparing the fabric for production and directly with cutting and manufacturing of products. All these features must be taken into account when developing designs for knitwear products.
In conditions of mass production, issues related to the specific properties of knitted fabrics are resolved mainly on the basis of extensive practical experience. On the other hand, the knowledge accumulated as a result of scientific research and the wide capabilities of CAD create the prerequisites for the development of a process and methods for a typical multivariate design of outer knitted products.
Defects in the design of clothing primarily affect the appearance of the product and the quality of its fit on the figure. It is extremely difficult to eliminate such defects; sometimes it is remade into a product of smaller sizes or other types.
All possible defects in the design can be grouped as follows: non-compliance of the product with the approved sample; defects in the fit of the product on the figure; violation of the efficiency and manufacturability of the product.
Non-compliance of the product design with the approved sample manifests itself in constructive and decorative lines (location, direction, configuration, etc.), discrepancy between the linear dimensions of the product as a whole and its parts with the technical descriptions for the model.
Causes defects in the fit of the product on the figure is that the shape of the product does not correspond to the shape of the human body. In this case, wrinkles and folds are formed in the product - transverse, longitudinal, oblique.
Transverse folds occur when parts are too long or too wide. For example, transverse folds on the back of the product, along the hem of the sleeve, along the fastener and side seam of trousers - due to the excessive length and insufficient width of these parts.
If clothing parts are too wide or too long, longitudinal folds are formed. They most often appear on the back along the middle seam, at the armhole seam of the back and front, in raglan sleeves, in the back halves of the trousers at the side seams, in the area of the trouser fastener, etc.
Sloping folds(creases) can occur along the side seams, in the armholes of products due to the excessive length of the corresponding sections of the parts. Creases also form along the hems, elbow seams of sleeves, inseams of trousers, etc. The cause of creases may also be insufficient ironing of volumetric parts (shelves, backrests).
Defects in the fit of clothing on the figure occur when the balance of the product is imbalanced. When the balance decreases, the back of the product “outweighs” the front, while the side seams move forward, the collar at the back lags behind the neck, the shelves overlap one another by an amount greater than that provided for in the model. As the balance increases, the front of the product “tightens”, the side seams are shifted back, the collar is too close to the back of the neck, the front of the product is close to the legs, the shelves at the bottom diverge.
Non-equilibrium position of the sleeves in the product, i.e. their deviation forward or backward may be a consequence of incorrect placement of control marks (notches) along the armhole and sleeve cap when developing the product design.
Balance imbalances in trousers appear when the length of some parts increases in relation to others. In this case, transverse folds are formed on the front and back of the trousers.
The development of uneconomical and low-tech designs leads to serious losses in the mass production of clothing. An uneconomical design causes a high consumption of materials and significant inter-pattern losses due to inconvenience in the layout of patterns, as a result of which the cost of products increases. If the manufacturability of the design is violated, the labor intensity of processing the product increases, labor productivity decreases, which leads to an increase in the cost of processing the product.
Fashion design is a fascinating and constantly evolving field. Designers spend a lot of time creating competitive collections. If you want to become a successful designer, be patient as you have a long road ahead of you. However, the tips in this article will help you in your endeavors. Remember, the one who walks will master the road!
Steps
Preparation
- To acquire a skill, you need to work hard, constantly honing your new skill. Take 30 minutes every day to become a better painter.
- A good guide is Mark Kistler's book "You Can Draw in 30 Days."
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Acquire basic sewing knowledge. Even if you are not going to sew, but only want to model clothes, you will really need this knowledge. As you improve your skills, you will come up with new and interesting ideas.
Gain basic knowledge of clothing design. If you want to become a fashion designer, you need to gain basic knowledge about fashion designing. Molly Bang's book Draw It! is an excellent guide to help you master modeling and design skills. You will learn to think like a designer.
Learn everything about fashion. If you want to be a fashion designer, you must know everything about the fashion world. You may think of yourself as a very stylish person, but believe me, knowing how to dress well is just the tip of the iceberg. If you create designs based on what's in fashion now, by the time you're done, your creation will likely be out of style. Professional designers think ahead, creating models that will become fashionable in the near future.
- Watch videos or photos of famous fashion shows online, or attend such events if you live in a place where they are held. Professional designers create their seasonal collections in advance, several months before a particular item comes into fashion. Therefore, by attending fashion shows, you can get an idea of what will be fashionable in the future.
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Find resources to help you as a designer. Nowadays, designers have many useful tools that can make their work easier. In addition to knowing how to use a sewing machine and having a sketchbook, it would be nice to master Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator.
- Sites like Linda.com or Tuts+ are great resources for those who want to learn design.
- If you want to sketch on your computer rather than in a sketchbook, you'll need a good graphics tablet like a Wacom.
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Transfer the silhouette lines to another sheet of paper. For this you will again need a pencil. Therefore, put down the pen and take a simple pencil in your hand. Place a piece of white paper on the sheet with the silhouette lines. If you have drawn the lines well with dark paste and have taken a sheet that is not too thick, you can easily transfer the lines to a new sheet of paper.
- If you have a lightbox, you can use it. Simply place your sketch on the lightbox, then place a blank piece of paper on top of it and transfer the image.
- If you don't have a lightbox and your sketch doesn't show up well through a piece of paper, try placing two sheets of paper taped together on a windowpane on a sunny day. The result will be the same as if you used a lightbox.
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Start sketching your desired model. Use a pencil for this purpose. If you make a mistake, you can correct it without any problems. To begin, draw the outline of your model and gradually add details. When you are finished and happy with the result, trace the resulting image with a pen.
Color your sketch. You can use different accessories for this purpose. Use markers, felt-tip pens and colored pencils. Start coloring the light elements, adding shadows in the direction of the fabric. Gradually move on to more dark colors and patterns, also, not forgetting to shade the element you are decorating.
Use a completed sketch. You already have your own sketch of a person's silhouette. Therefore, you can quickly move directly to modeling. Just transfer the finished silhouette to a new sheet and get to work.
Learn to draw. You don't have to be an illustrator; many designers stick to their personal style when designing clothes. However, you must be able to convey your unique style by depicting your creation on paper. To improve your artistic skills, you can take art lessons, study art tutorials, or simply practice, practice, practice.
Sewing
- Put on a shirt that you no longer wear and very carefully wrap several layers of tape around it. Thanks to this, your future mannequin will keep a shape that matches the proportions of your body.
- Cut the finished “cocoon” from the side, starting from the hip, moving up to the armpit and down along the sleeve.
- Tape the cut line together. Using paper, cover the neck and sleeves and secure it with tape. Consider whether you will need sleeves for your model. If not, you can simply cut them off.
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Draw the pattern on parchment paper. Do this in pencil so you can correct the mistake if necessary. Also label each part to avoid any confusion later. Remember the saying: “Measure twice, cut once?” You can waste a lot of time later by making just one mistake. When you are finished, cut out your paper pattern.
Trace the resulting paper pattern onto gauze. Place the parchment paper pattern on the cheesecloth and trace around it. Cut out the finished pattern and connect the different elements together.
Sew the parts together. Using sewing machine, sew different parts of your product together. Remove the pins and try on the resulting garment on a mannequin or on yourself if the item is your size.
Evaluate the result. See how the product looks from the outside. Pay attention to its shape. What should be changed? Take notes, sketches, make necessary changes to the gauze layout to ultimately get the desired result.
Make a mannequin. You will need a mannequin to try on and fit your creations. Your mannequin should fit the person's body shape. If you don't have a mannequin, you can make your own using the size you want.