Presentation by Karina Sakhibgareeva.

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The beginning of the century before last marked a new era in world fashion. Society becomes more dynamic, and more democratic dresses and suits come into fashion in the 19th century. France remains one of the trendsetters. At this time, she was still experiencing the consequences of the Great Revolution, which upended, among other things, all ideas about fashionable clothing. There is a sharp rejection of wigs and complex hairstyles, corsets and crinolines, and countless amounts of powder.

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The very fashionable 19th century can be divided into three periods: 1800-1825 “The Age of Empire” 1830-1860 “The Age of Romanticism” 1870-1900 “The Age of Capitalism” 1800 - 1825 “The Age of Empire” During the first era, politicians were examples of fashion trends. Usually, by seeing how a politician was dressed, one could understand what his political sympathies were. Ladies preferred to imitate the clothes of the ancient Greeks and Romans. Nothing new was invented in women's clothing. These are dresses with high waist, but with the absence of a corset, shoes without heels, they looked like typical sandals, they preferred to open their hands.

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The men are dressed in tight, tightly buttoned clothes, the women are dressed in light dresses. The ladies are wearing barely noticeable shoes without heels with such narrow soles that they cannot walk in the slightest dampness. Men's suit was strict and no frills, cocked hat and tailcoat with a triple collar.

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Slide 8: 1830 -1860 “The Age of Romanticism”

The outfit was devoid of any practicality, and accessories also played a significant role. Dresses in the romantic style are divided into casual and ballroom. Casual dresses have no neckline. Ball gowns often have bare shoulders. The sleeves of ball gowns can be either short or long. With dresses from short sleeves wore long gloves. Another feature of dresses in the romanticism style is that the sleeves and skirts of these dresses take the shape of a bell.

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A fashion for hats appears. During the period of romanticism, the bonnet hat became the most popular - a headdress with a high hat crown (for hair pulled back at the back of the head) and with wide, hard brims framing the face, tapering towards the back of the head. The hood was held on the head by wide ribbons, which were tied under the chin with a bow. Also in fashion is women's clothing for riding - amazon dress. The Amazon dress consisted of a long cloth skirt and a narrow blouse. A hat with a veil and gloves were worn with such a dress.

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As for the men's suit of the Romantic period in general, it was not subject to such significant changes as the women's suit. Men still wear light trousers, and on top a vest, tailcoat or frock coat in darker shades. And a variety of coats. One of the most popular was the carrick coat - a coat with several collars. However, there were some innovations. Thus, during the period of romanticism, a fashion for checkered fabrics appeared. And it was during the period of romanticism that dandies appeared.

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The principle of “casual elegance” in a men’s suit was as follows: the collar of a white starched shirt was never buttoned, neckerchief tied casually, hair should be slightly disheveled, the suit must be made of fabric good quality, much attention was paid to accessories. Dandies wore gloves that almost never took off, expensive watches, a cane or an umbrella-cane.

In the second half of the 19th century, fashion was dictated by the tastes of the wealthy bourgeoisie. Based on the style of the mid-18th century - Rococo - a new, even more magnificent and eclectic style is emerging - the “second Rococo”, or “exhibition style”.

Men's suit

The main innovation in the field of men's suits was the strict division of clothing according to functional purpose. There are business, ball, home and everyday (work) suits.
Men wore white button-down shirts with stand-up or turn-down collars. In the 60s, bibs appeared to replace shirts.
In the 50s men wore trousers with straps, in the 60s - without straps. In the 70-80s. the trousers acquired stripes and widened greatly at the bottom. In the 90s “French” cut trousers came into fashion - baggy, tapered at the bottom. They were mainly sewn from striped or checkered fabric.
A tailcoat - black or colored, which was sometimes complemented by a black tailcoat with a white lining, became ceremonial, ballroom wear. A white vest was worn with the tailcoat.
A new type of suit - a business card - is becoming business attire. Unlike the tailcoat and frock coat, it was single-breasted, had a cut-off waist and rounded tails. The black business card was accompanied by black and gray striped trousers (which were called “business card”) and double-breasted or single-breasted vests - black, colored or even white. Starched collars to match the vest were either stand-up or turn-down. Unlike the tailcoat, which was worn in the evening, the card was primarily daytime wear.

on woman: walking dress

on a man: double-breasted frock coat

At the end of the century another one came into fashion new suit- tuxedo (originally “smoking suit”). It was worn mainly by young people. Black trousers with black silk stripes were worn with a tuxedo.
Every day the men wore a frock coat. Jackets and cardigans, which became widespread during this period, also play the role of casual clothing.
At home they wore various jackets and velvet blouses.
Men's outerwear was very diverse: a coat with a cape, a long fur coat, a long sleeveless cloak with a cape (“havelok”), a bag-like coat (“sak”), short coat at the waist, trimmed at the front with cords (“bekesha”).
In the 50s-60s. the tie had the appearance of a bow, and by the 70s the ribbon tie appeared. The tailcoat was accompanied by a white tie tied in a bow.

Woman suit

In the second half of the 19th century, France was still a trendsetter in women's fashion.
In the 50s-60s. the fashionable women's suit acquired elaborate shapes. This period in fashion history is known as the “Second Empire Fashions.”
At that time, dresses were made from silk and wool fabrics, satin, rep, damask, and velvet. The brightest colors in fashion are purple, hot pink, and red. The decoration included artificial flowers, fringe, braid, embroidery, lace (gold lace was especially fashionable). Lace and embroidery were no longer made by hand, but by factory methods.
The most notable feature of the women's costume was the crinoline (from the French word crine - “mane, horsehair”). It was a structure made of willow twigs, whalebone or metal hoops, which was worn under the petticoat. It made it possible to give the skirt a special fluffiness. By 1860, the round frame of the crinoline gave way to an oval one.

on a woman: crinoline dress for visits

on a man: court clothes with a cape

on a man: casual frock coat suit

on a woman: summer dress on crinoline

Women's dresses were characterized by a natural waist length and dropped shoulder line. A tightly laced corset was always worn under the dress.
Everyday dresses had a closed bodice and widened sleeves. Ball gowns had a low neckline and were usually sleeveless.
Women wore shawls, capes, mantillas, capes, and vests as outerwear. For visits and walks they also wore a fitted vest - a cossack.
A handbag, a lorgnette and an umbrella served as additions to the toilet. In connection with the fashion for travel that swept the upper strata of society, a fashion for traveling and swimwear arose.
In the 70s-80s. The era of “positivism” has begun in the history of fashion. The main idea of ​​this trend was to demonstrate wealth and prosperity. The costume of the “positivism” period was overloaded with details and decorations, often combining fabrics of different textures and colors: silk, velvet, wool, lace, gauze. Basic tones women's outfits- dark, and in the 80s. dresses of light blue, green, and pink shades appeared.

on a woman: home polonaise dress

on a man: weekend suit

on a woman: walking dress

on a man: weekend suit

Tall and slender figures are in fashion, which are emphasized by dresses that are not cut off at the waist, tightly covering the body to the middle of the hips. Under the dress they wore a corset with very tight lacing, which pulled the entire figure to the middle of the thighs. The dress was draped at the back, covering a bustle - a pad or lining made of tightly starched fabric, due to which the center of the silhouette shifted sharply back. In the 80s Bustles became enormous, almost cartoonish, but fell out of fashion in the last decade of the 19th century.

on man: casual suit

on a woman: draped dress with bustle

Ball gowns were still sewn without sleeves, but they began to have new feature- a train or a pleated frill hemmed to the hem. In addition, dresses with double skirts came into fashion. The overskirt in this outfit was selected from all sides, imitating a jacket along with the bodice.
Outerwear remained the same: various jackets and capes were worn, the lace “illusion” ball cape was especially fashionable.
A small umbrella, gloves, a fan in the form of a fan, a fur and feather boa, and black stockings completed the outfit.

Shoes

Common men's shoes in the second half of the 19th century were boots and boots with buttons or laces. Open shoes were worn only at balls. Only black or patent leather shoes or low shoes were worn with the business card. Felt leggings were often worn on patent leather low shoes. In the 50s men's footwear was pointed-toed, and in the 60s a blunt nose and high heels came into fashion.
In the 50-60s. women wore high-heeled shoes and lace-up boots.
Everyday women's shoes 70s-80s there were high boots, laced or with buttons, with high or medium heels.

Hairstyles and hats

In the 1850s, the fashion for men was to have rather long hair, parted sideways and curled into curls. They also wore a beard and mustache. In the 60s Relatively short haircut, sideburns and mustaches became fashionable.
The cylinder remained the most popular men's headdress, but after 1850. it is no longer considered a mandatory accessory for going out. They also wore hard (“melons”) and soft felt hats, wide-brimmed Panama hats and “boaters” - hard round wicker hats with a flat crown and even brim.
In the 90s, the black (occasionally gray) “bowler hat” became a favorite headdress for men - something between a top hat and a felt hat with narrow, even brims and a rigid domed crown.
Women in the 50s wore fluffy hairpieces. Sometimes the hair was combed in the middle and placed in a net at the back.

It's no secret that fashion is extremely changeable. After all, even today, certain fashion trends constantly appear and disappear, and each designer makes his contribution to the development of world fashion. What were the clothes of the 19th century like? What did people wear two hundred years ago? How did fashion develop in those days? Many people are interested in these questions.

Of course, fashion and clothing are directly related to some historical events. And the clothing of the first half of the 19th century demonstrates this dependence. After all, the 19th century was a time of constant revolutions, a time of overthrow of the imperial regime, a time of the creation of republics and proletariats, a time of activity of feminist organizations. It is quite natural that fashion changed almost constantly.

WOMEN'S CLOTHING OF THE 19TH CENTURY. For dresses in those days, soft, smooth and thin fabrics were chosen, in particular cambric, muslin, muslin, and percale. The skirt was not too long and left the foot exposed. When moving, clothing had to emphasize the contours of the body, demonstrate soft lines and graceful movements.

Men's clothing from the 19th century. Nineteenth-century men's clothing changed frequently. For example, at the beginning of the century, frock coats, lace frills, shoes with large buckles and over the knee boots were considered fashionable. But due to the popularity of the Empire style, representatives of the stronger sex are beginning to prefer other clothes. If we talk about everyday clothes, the man wore light trousers, a shirt, a vest, and on top of it a woolen tailcoat with a high stand collar. As a rule, tailcoats were made from fabrics of muted dark tones; in particular, black, blue and brown colors were fashionable. As outerwear a double-breasted frock coat was used. The clothes were decorated with plain symmetrical embroidery

Men in those days wore short haircuts. Tall cylinders were extremely popular. As for jewelry, a formal suit included a minimal amount of decor. A man could wear a lorgnette, which was attached to his clothing with a chain. Acceptable jewelry also included a watch, a snuff box, as well as chains and key rings.

And here women's fashion changed almost constantly. In the early 19th century, tall, intricate hairstyles were fashionable. Women wore hats and bonnets. In the middle of the century, women simply combed their hair back, tying it in a knot at the back, with only a few curls allowed. Already in the 1870s, updo hairstyles came back into fashion, but now they were much simpler. At the same time, small hats appeared that were decorated with artificial flowers and feathers.

Shumskaya Anna

A study of costumes and European fashion of the 19th century.

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19th century costumes

The nineteenth century was marked by a number of discoveries in the fields of science, culture and art. The new era was characterized by rapid development of society, a new pace and rhythm of life, and economic development. The history of European costume in the 19th century begins with the stunning events of the French bourgeois revolution of 1789. The basic principles by which the costume of the 19th century was formed were laid down in the last years of the 18th century.

The fashion of the first half of the 19th century in stylistic perception can be classified as follows: costume of the Empire period and restoration, court clothing (1804 - 1825) and romantic style, European costume (1825 - 1850). More precisely, in the second quarter of the 19th century, according to stylistic criteria, costume was divided into two periods: 1825 - 1849 - Biedermeier, 1840 - 1850 - the so-called “fashionable period”.

It is noteworthy that in such short periods of time the appearance of fashionistas changed radically; we can say that such a change in styles is tantamount to a revolution.

Fashion did not stand still; its changing appearance once again shocked Russian dandies and dandies. In the “Moscow Mercury” of 1803, fashionistas could read the following guide to action: “In the current costume, the main thing is to outline the body. If a woman’s legs cannot be seen from her shoes to her torso, then they say that she does not know how to dress or wants to be distinguished by her strangeness. When the nymph walks, the dress is skillfully selected and smoothly fitted behind, showing all the play of her muscles with every step.”

To create such outfits, special fabrics were also required. During this period, cambric, muslin, taffeta, percale, crepe and muslin are popular.

The appearance is now deliberately given an air of grandeur and simplicity. Almost everything in the costume changes: dresses were worn over one shirt, skirts are no longer worn so as not to spoil the transparency of the fabrics. The Russian climate was little suited to airy outfits, and our fashionistas were forced to switch to men's-cut underwear and flesh-colored tights.

But even such measures did not save us from the terrible cold. Our “nymphs” and “goddesses” tried to “triumph over the elements, fearing neither frost nor the rays of the sun, and flaunt such charms that previously hid from the curious gaze of profane people, like sacred Egyptian sacraments.” All clothes were “in the antique style”; their feet were shod in “cothurns”.

Worn over dresses short lungs tunics These tunics were trimmed with a border with Greek patterns, for example, meanders or ribbons. The Russian climate made a certain contribution to the appearance of fashionable ladies - tunics with fur trim (tunique a la russe) appeared. The bodice usually had a straight or sweetheart neckline, revealing almost the entire bust and revealing the back, emphasizing the beauty of the neck.

The waist was high or it was also called short, that is, immediately under the armpits and chest. Sleeves were either completely absent or barely covered the shoulders; instead, gloves were worn that reached the shoulders. High-waisted outfits were fashionable in Russia until 1822 - 1823.

Through the eyes of men, not all fashionable innovations were attractive, as the Moscow Telegraph chronicler of 1824 says: “Despite the mischief of fashion, one cannot help but thank it for the destruction of short corsets, completely indecent for the slender figure, so common among Russian women.” Even from this phrase it is clear that even in those days Russian beauties were irresistible.

Perhaps one of the most important details The toilet of that time is a shawl. At the beginning of the century, the so-called “Kashmiri” shawls cost almost a fortune. Shawls were distinguished by a rich variety of shapes (square, triangular, rectangular). They were woven from various materials(silk, wool, gauze, cambric). These garments varied in color and finish. The shawl was worn in summer and winter, morning and evening - always. They wrapped themselves in it and casually threw it over their bare shoulders, attracting the inquisitive gaze of the stronger sex. The shawl was an integral part of the ball gown. The dance “pas de shawl” was invented in her honor. By the way, in today's fashion shawls, scarves and scarves also occupy not the last place in a number of fashion accessories. Shawls, hats, fans and other costume details added a special charm to the outfit of beauties and dandies of the 19th century.

By the 1920s, the color palette of toilets had expanded noticeably, whereas before that time clothes had been dominated by White color, then now the shades have become very diverse. Fashionable colors have incredible names, for example: the frog that fainted (grenouille evanouie); frightened mouse (souris effrayee); toad in love (crapaud amoureux); a spider plotting a crime (araignee meditant un crime); dreamy flea (puce revense).

To make the waist as thin as possible, a corset was worn under the dress and tied on top with a wide belt or ribbon. According to the fashion requirements of that time, the upper part of the dress had to be shaped like a heart. The skirts had a specially cut pocket for a favorite volume of poetry or a novel. During these years, there was a rapid passion for literature, especially among women. Minds are occupied with the works of George Sand, Victor Hugo, Walter Scott.

Men wore long trousers down to their boots, which by 1818 had lengthened to the ankles, and in this form were recognized as fashion. The trousers were held on with suspenders, which were considered a fashionable innovation and special chic. The favorite clothing was a tailcoat with a high waist and widened sleeves at the shoulder, with funnel-shaped cuffs. Usually the tailcoat is plain, but it could be with a fly or stripes. Buttons were selected especially carefully; they could be silver, porcelain, or even precious. A riding coat was used for riding, which in a modified form turned into a frock coat - everyday clothing, which initially served as a modern coat. It was worn over a tailcoat or uniform. He is wearing a triangular hat and a gray traveling frock coat... - we read from Lermontov in the poem “Airship”.

The hair was cut and curled into tight curls (a la Titus), the face was shaved and only narrow stripes called favorites were left on the cheeks at the temples. Men's costume in the second quarter of the 19th century did not undergo fundamental changes. From England during this period comes a new idea of ​​elegance, which was manifested in the cut of the suit, the quality of the fabric, the whiteness of the linen, and especially in the disdainful manner in which dandies wore expensive things. Fancy Hairstyle represented short hair. Curled into curls, raised above the forehead in the form of a “coq” (coq - French - rooster), since the shape of this hairstyle resembled a cockscomb. The main headdress was a cylinder, which was worn on all occasions. Also in fashion is the wide-brimmed bolivar hat, named after General Bolivar. We all remember Pushkin’s lines from our school days: Putting on a wide bolivar, Onegin goes to the boulevard...

Liberals of the 1940s wore a soft felt garibaldi hat, which seemed extremely democratic at the time. Shoes were boots and ballroom pumps. A mandatory addition to the costume were gloves, a whip, a cane, an umbrella, and a lorgnette was attached to the vest with a ribbon. Since the 30s, they began to use handkerchiefs in public, which until that time was considered indecent.

Color spectrum men's clothing: tobacco, grey, blue, green and brown. By the 40s, checkered fabrics became very fashionable, from which they were mainly used to make trousers, and sometimes other parts of clothing.

The work was carried out by a student of the 9th “A” class of MBOU Secondary School No. 2 named after Admiral Ushakov of the resort city of Gelendzhik Shumskaya Anna. April 2014 Thank you for watching.

As part of the school-wide event “Immersion in the era. 19th century,” a “Fashion Salon” was organized in the sewing workshop of our school. The presenters told salon visitors about fashion trends that time. This presentation served as an illustration for the story.

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Fashion of the 19th century Opens the cycle of styles in the fashion of the 19th century - Empire (from the French Empire - empire) - solemn and majestic, based on the aesthetics of ancient Roman and ancient Greek designs. Empire - antique style.

Style "AMPIRE"

1826 Men's suit

Invention sewing machine Two discoveries in the history of world sewing had an undoubted influence on the Russian women's costume of the 19th century. The first was the invention in 1801 of the “Jacquard” machine, which made it possible to produce fabric with any weave of threads and complex patterns. The second event was the invention of the sewing machine, which, however, became widespread only after 1850: it was then that its improved version, created by Isaac Singer, gained worldwide fame within a few years.

YOU ARE GOOD IN EVERYTHING, darling.

1850 – 1870s. “Second Rococo” style

A new petticoat, the crinoline, was worn throughout the 1840s and 50s. Vasily Perov "The arrival of a governess to a merchant's house."

Eclecticism The loud luxury of complex women's toilets of the 1860-1890s, especially noticeable in the capitals, was beyond styles, like the architecture of Russia at that time: eclecticism reigned.

Tournament Since the mid-1860s. dresses with crinolines began to seem not fashionable, but funny. By 1870, new styles appeared. Dresses with tunics (when the underskirt was draped by an upper, shorter one, often made of contrasting fabric) and bustles (designs made of whalebone or a pad that supported lush folds below the back) became widespread.

Art Nouveau style In the 90s. The emerging Art Nouveau (modern, new) style, which arose as a negation of the eclecticism of bourgeois art, penetrates into women's costume.

Milliner

In your clothes, try to be elegant, but not dandy; the sign of grace is decency, and the sign of panache is excess. Socrates A well-dressed man is one whose clothes are not noticed. William Somerset Maugham A well-dressed man is one who considers himself and others. Pierre Cardin Beautiful clothes are like a letter of recommendation. Italian proverb

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