Clothes modeling is the process of creating new wardrobe items that differ in style, finishing and other parameters. This is creativity, supported by special knowledge that allows you to bring to life the most daring ideas of both professional and novice fashion designers. Clothing modeling is possible even for those who do not have many years of experience, but strive to create not just things, but something new, interesting and unusual.

Doing modeling is actually not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. A model of any complexity can be obtained by intelligently changing the design lines of the base pattern or base pattern. It is only important to have a good basic pattern and understand the purpose and principle of “action” of each design line.

The creation of new models is not cumbersome formulas that are incomprehensible to beginners, but pure creativity, which is based on a set of basic techniques. Understanding the basics of modeling opens up fundamentally new possibilities in tailoring, allowing you to turn boring drawing of lines into an exciting process of designing original models.

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Basics of modeling

If you immediately accept the fact that any thing can be sewn based on a basic pattern, the widest horizons will open up. Many beginners believe that separate patterns are needed for dresses of different styles. Of course, such a task will seem complicated and time-consuming. Making a new pattern every time is difficult even for an experienced seamstress. Therefore, it is so important to understand that absolutely all models, for example, dresses, are modeled on the basis of a base pattern.

Built according to individual parameters, it becomes a kind of imprint of the body. This means that every item sewn according to this pattern will have a perfect fit. A simple example clearly demonstrates how different dress models are created from one basic pattern.

Different sleeve lengths or its complete absence, a modified neckline, additional elements, different finishes and materials - and no one can blame you for monotony. If you wish, you can experiment with the length of the product, choose a different silhouette, introduce asymmetry and much more. All this allows you to get new dresses that exactly match your figure.

Pattern-base

It is important for a novice fashion designer to know what lines the basic pattern consists of and on what principle they “work”. Understanding these basics allows you to give complete freedom to your imagination and create an original, wearable wardrobe. This way you can understand the essence of the construction of even an intricately tailored item. To become more familiar with the elements of the base pattern, it is better to use a drawing of the dress for greater clarity.

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The picture shows the shelves or halves of the front and back pieces. Each structural element of the shelves has its own purpose.

Armhole

The basic pattern must contain the maximum armhole size. That is, you need to create the size and curve of the armhole based on the parameters of the body. Ideally, the armhole should not cut into the armpit area, warp, or pull. Then you can change its configuration and size as you like, but it should not be less than the base value.

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Clothes modeling tips for beginners when constructing back armholes

• The armhole line is lowered exactly to the chest line (LG).
• The height is ¼ LOG + 7 cm.
• The extreme point is located in the middle of the entire armhole (on the LG).
• The lower third of the armhole goes in an arc to the midpoint.

Construction of the front armhole

• The height is ¼ LOG + 5 cm.
• It has an upper bend (deviates to the side by 0.1 POG measurements) and a lower bend (at the level of the lower third).

Darts

In the picture below, 2 waist and 2 shoulder darts are marked in red. They help to accurately “fit” the product and form an attractive silhouette.

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When sewing a dress from stretch fabrics, the use of darts is not necessary. The stretchy material follows curves well and compresses at the waist and shoulders.

In many models you cannot find such a shoulder dart on the front shelf. For greater convenience and attractiveness, it is often transferred using one of the methods shown below.

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At the stage of creating the basic pattern, the chest dart is indicated on the shoulder for more convenient drawing. Then it can be easily transferred (to the waist line, to the side cut), based on the characteristics of the chosen style.

The point of the bust dart should always be at the top of the bust. This will avoid distortions in this area and ensure the necessary fit.

Back darts

When constructing a shoulder dart on the back, it is important to know that:

• the distance of the dart from the edge of the neckline is 4 cm;
• the sides of the dart are of equal length (6 cm each), although one of them is inclined and the other is perpendicular;
• constant width – 1.6 cm.

Chest line

The chest line is one of the main lines on which fashion designers rely when creating products of various styles. When constructing many pattern elements, it is enough to focus on the LG, and not draw them out through complex calculations.

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Features of dress design

• The waist dart of the front front is drawn 4 cm before the LG.
• The front shoulder dart ends at this line.
• The lower points of the armhole also lie on the chest line.

Waistline

This line is of decisive importance when constructing waist darts on both shelves. It is removed from the cervical vertebra by a measure equal to the length of the back. The point of intersection with the LT is the place of greatest expansion of the dart.

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The waist line, like the hip line, is straight on the back shelf, and has a slight deflection on the front shelf. It allows you to take into account the roundness in the abdominal area, which is determined by the physiology of the female body (present even in the most slender young ladies).

Hip line

The hem extension is drawn along the hip line (HL) (an average of 1.5 cm on each side). As the difference between chest volume and hip circumference increases, this figure also increases. The extension is necessary in order to ensure a good fit and avoid distortion while walking.

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When stretch materials are used to sew dresses, such expansion is also necessary. Otherwise, you will have to constantly tug at the hem that goes to your waist. It is inconvenient to move around in such an outfit, and it will not look very aesthetically pleasing.

The LB is removed from the LT by half the length of the back.

Simple way to model

Armed with the basic pattern of the dress, knowledge of the purpose of its design lines, and also taking into account the properties of the selected material, you can safely proceed to modeling. It's better to start simple and experiment with the silhouette.

Progress

1. The close-fitting silhouette will highlight the attractive curves of the body. To sew such dresses, you should choose fabrics with elastic fibers. The fabric should have only a little stretch (not like stretch). In this case, there is no need to increase the freedom of fit. The width of the pattern and the width of the chest will be equal.
2. A dress with a fitted silhouette can be cut from ordinary non-stretch fabrics. The allowance for freedom of fit is 3 cm.
3. The semi-fitting silhouette allows you to neatly hide some figure flaws without turning the product into something shapeless. That’s why these styles are especially popular among women. of different ages. When sewing a semi-fitting silhouette, an allowance is made for freedom of fit equal to 4-5 cm (1 cm for the back, 1.5 cm for the armholes, the rest for the chest area).
4. A straight silhouette means an extra 6-7 cm.

If you can go further in clothing modeling and create more complex wardrobe elements, it’s worth taking a closer look at the dummy method. It is also called the tattooing method and clothing mock-up. Using this technique, fashion designers create their intended images directly on a mannequin or person. All you need is fabric cut according to a basic pattern (a whole piece or individual cuts) and pins to create a new product with a perfect fit.

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The dummy method is distinguished by its clarity and ease of execution. Therefore, not only professionals, but also beginners in the sewing business resort to it. The tattooing method provides complete freedom for imagination and embodiment of ideas. By laying out the fabric on a mannequin, you can create complex designs without disturbing the design of the main lines.

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Layout methods

1. Individual pieces of square or rectangular fabric are cut off. Advantages: less fabric consumption, simple creation of a detailed pattern.
2. Connecting various elements of the future product using pins. Sleeves, back, bodice, collar are pinned directly on the model.
3. Layout is performed using a single piece of fabric, from which the fashion designer creates complex designs.

Conclusion

When modeling clothes of different styles, there is no need to create an individual pattern each time. It is enough to design a base pattern once in order to use it in various variations in the future. This will be your base for a design of any complexity. Model it according to the chosen style without wasting time on unnecessary drawing work.

If you have a basic pattern for shoulder products, you can easily model various products with minimal design changes, namely a dress, top, vest, blouse, jacket and much more. You yourself will choose the models, type of material, product length, sleeve shape, neckline.

Using a basic pattern, they create a variety of clothes, even if there is no professional knowledge in the field of modeling and tailoring. You can forget about the studio and the purchase new clothes in shops. This gives you the opportunity to independently create stylish things for your wardrobe.

Construction is the starting point for the planar method of creating clothing. Based on the measurements taken from the client during individual tailoring or using dimensions for a conventionally typical figure in mass production, a drawing of the basic design of the product is constructed.

When constructing a drawing, various design techniques can be used:

EMKO SEV,

• Muller and son

  English method, etc.

The final version produces approximately the same picture - the basis of a skirt, trousers, dress, coat, and so on.

Differences in methods most often lie in formulas and calculations, as well as in variability of use. For example, one method gives a simplified construction (which is easier for a beginner in sewing to understand), but has big flaws when fitting the product to a figure, while another is more complex in calculations and will require more initial measurements of the figure, but will give a more accurate result when tried on.

The next stage in creating clothing, after design, is modeling - layering model features onto basic patterns.

For example:

tuck translations,

change in volumes,

adding constructive cuts (yoke lines, reliefs),

completion of additional elements (collars, cuffs, flounces, etc.).

Most often, this stage of creating a product is the most exciting and creative. It is important not only to correctly find the volumes and silhouette of the future product, but also to coordinate the proportions of elements, lines and shapes.

For a novice tailor, there may be difficulties with visualization here - often the lines in 3D form look completely different than on the plane of the table in 2D.

In production conditions, the designer works with pre-developed bases of various volumes. Often his task is only to model existing foundations. When working with individual clients in the atelier, the tailor also has basic standard sizes, which are then adjusted to the body type of each client, and only after that they are modeled according to the sketch of the future product.

When designing clothing for women, children and men, there are important differences in building the basics based on differences in body type.

Despite the fact that designing children's clothing is considered the simplest, professional designers begin their training with women's clothing.

Creating a masculine outerwear(suits and coats) is considered the height of tailoring - everything must be impeccable from design to tailoring.

Currently, there are many programs for creating basic drawings and modeling - the so-called CAD systems (automated clothing design systems). Designing on a computer is many times faster and easier to create drawings “manually” - many operations occur automatically, there is no need for physical storage of basic principles, the modeling stage is interactive.

Unfortunately, even such smart programs require the designer to know classical construction techniques, understand the volume of the body, the beauty of lines and proportions.

In our schools in St. Petersburg and Moscow you can study the design and modeling of women's, children's and men's assortments. Details on the website:

• in St. Petersburg
• in Moscow

You can also take a course on designing and modeling women's clothing remotely in our online school

Technical design – creation of various products for a specific purpose with the preparation of their designs (graphic images, technical and economic calculations, etc.), elaboration and comparison of possible various options designs and methods for manufacturing parts, making samples, studying their compliance with technical specifications and assessing quality.

Mental and practical activity here is aimed at making a thing; objects that carry an element of novelty and do not repeat or duplicate, unlike modeling, real objects.

Construction is part of design and will be a necessary element of the future creative project.

Design is carried out according to a specific technical specification, which formulates specific conditions and quality requirements finished product when used as intended.

Typically, design begins with a visual representation of the product, drawing up its sketches, technical drawings, and drawings. Then the necessary materials are selected.

Next, a prototype of the product or the product itself is made, tested for strength and performance, modified taking into account shortcomings, and this is repeated many times, from one option to another, until the best product is created according to its purpose. During the design process, the developer (designer) faces many product options. Multiple options in design are called variability . Variability is inherent in both the design of the product and its appearance - design . (The word “design” translated from English means “conception, project, drawing.”) In the narrow sense, design is the task of ensuring that products have a beautiful appearance, a beautiful, rational finish and are easy to use.

A beautiful and fashionable product, thought out from the point of view of technical aesthetics (beauty), simplicity and safety of maintenance and operation, is in high demand and is more valuable. That’s why they work through many product options until they find the most suitable one. This is how various designs of tables, chairs, armchairs and other wood products appeared.

Finally, the product must be technologically advanced (easy) to manufacture, durable, reliable and economical.

A product manufactured with the least amount of time, labor, money and materials is considered technologically advanced.

Durable the product accepts a given load without destruction.

A reliable product that lasts without fail for a long time.

Economical They consider a product with low consumption of materials, which does not require additional costs when used.

Manufacturability, strength, reliability and other properties are the basic principles of design, manufacture and operation of products.

All the above listed necessary properties products make up its quality . A high-quality product is durable and reliable, convenient to use. When designing products, it is very important to choose for them necessary materials so that the product is durable and cheap, easy and quick to manufacture, and meets all the requirements placed on it.

Teaching students elements of technical design aims to provide students with initial knowledge about the content and organizational features of the development of devices (structures), methods and techniques for manufacturing simple products from common materials, the simplest mechanical processing of which is accessible to children of the specified age. In the process of teaching elementary technical design, children’s design abilities develop, general polytechnic skills and skills, the working culture of students are improved, and their interest in independently solving problems available to them in designing various products grows.

Work on technical design, as well as work on technical modeling, helps expand the polytechnic horizons of schoolchildren, develop their spatial concepts, and enriches their speech. The work of younger schoolchildren in technical design is especially important to prepare them for technology lessons in subsequent grades of school.

To learn how to create product designs, students must practice design and learn to solve design problems. The design process is more efficient technical modeling, if the teacher develops the required design together with the children, clearly showing all the main stages of searching for rational solutions, checking and comparing options, and selecting the best according to a number of quality indicators.

The design of products in labor lessons can be organized and carried out in different ways. The most common forms of organizing students’ work to create product designs that are new to them are the following:
Design under the dictation of the teacher. The teacher shows one by one the designs of the parts of the product, demonstrates the methods of their manufacture and connection, the order of finishing of the manufactured product, the methods of its adjustment, regulation, and use for its intended purpose. In this case, students are engaged in reproductive activities, reproducing and copying the actions of the teacher. Such work contributes little to the development of independence, initiative, and creativity.
Design by analogy. After students, under the guidance of a teacher, have made an educational product, they are asked to independently construct a product that is similar in design or somewhat more complex, but similar in design. For example, students made a model of a cube from thin cardboard, and then they were given the task of making a model of a parallelepiped (making a development, gluing and pasting the models).
Design according to sample , which is shown in finished form. Students analyze the design of this sample, find out what parts it consists of, find out the order and techniques for performing individual operations in assembling and finishing the product.
Designing from oral, written or graphic product descriptions , including general technical requirements for the finished product (its purpose, conditions of use, dimensions, material proposed for manufacturing, general design requirements, etc.).
Design according to your own plans based on an independent examination of the task of designing a product, for the manufacture of which it is necessary to use materials known to students, the tools they have and previously learned working techniques.
Design on a free theme subject to the only condition: limiting the time of work (for example, one lesson).
Design in a team of two to four people with the distribution of responsibilities for creating a design and its implementation in material, testing in action.

Design - a general diagram of the structure and operation of a specific machine, structure, individual unit or their model, layout, giving an idea of ​​the shape, size and relative position of their parts, their interaction, methods and order of assembly and disassembly, the materials from which they are made, and etc. Knowledge of the design of the product, its purpose and methods, conditions of use are essential conditions for the success of its manufacture.

In technology lessons, students are familiarized with the designs of educational products using samples, graphic images, oral and written descriptions, or a combination of these types of instructions and explanations of the tasks of manufacturing the product. The study of product designs is carried out in inextricable connection with the study of technological operations, methods of manufacturing parts, their assembly and quality control, compliance with the given task.

Product design – shape, dimensions, connection methods and features of the interaction of individual parts and assemblies of the product. The design of the product determines its suitability for its intended purpose: ease of use of the product, its dimensions (dimensions), weight, reliability and durability in operation, appearance, and the ability to perform repairs. Depending on the purpose and conditions of use of the product, these indicators may vary within significant limits. For some products, it is important that they are as portable, portable and lightweight as possible. Other products must be especially durable, and materials of appropriate strength are selected for their manufacture. The designs of third products must provide for the ability to quickly replace individual parts in order to repair worn-out ones. To manufactured Christmas tree toys and there is no point in making the decorations require durability - they should be intricate in shape and elegant.

Model designs should give an idea of ​​the appearance of the corresponding object, and technical model designs should give an idea of ​​the principles of operation.

Children's construction sets – sets of standard parts intended for children to make various products: models of machines and mechanisms, instruments, apparatus, models of structures, household items, etc.

Using sets of this type, manipulating parts, carrying out work on assembling certain structures, students improve basic skills in assembling and disassembling, adjusting them, and using them in play activities. In addition, they gain a general understanding of the content and organization of assembly operations in production. At the same time, in an interesting and exciting way, in the process of vigorous activity, children practically become familiar with the purpose, design features and operation of the most common machines, mechanisms, engineering structures, gaming attractions. All this contributes to the general and technical development of students, intensifying their interest in technology, production, labor activity of people.

— prefabricated models certain structures (for example, a car, a watch, a residential building);

— themed constructors , intended for assembling several models on one topic (for example, an aircraft designer, an automobile designer, an electrical designer, an architectural and construction designer);

— schematic general technical sets of parts , from which you can mount an endless number of models and models of machines, mechanisms, structures, household items, toys. The peculiarity of the last group of sets is that when designing and manufacturing various objects from parts of the sets, students have the opportunity to supplement their models with homemade parts from paper, cardboard, thin sheet metal, sheet plastic, and films. This creates additional incentives and opportunities to improve design skills, develop techniques for manufacturing missing parts, and the order of assembly of products.

Each set includes a printed album – a manual that provides information about the nomenclature, appearance, purpose and number of parts that make up the set, about the tools that are used during assembly work, provides examples of typical designs of elementary connections of parts and more or less complex units, as well as brief recommendations for methods of performing labor operations of installation and dismantling of products.

The main part of each album consists of drawings of models recommended for production. Objects offered for production are located on the pages of the album in order of gradual increase in the complexity of their implementation.

Modeling - type of design. As a result of the design and modeling process, finished objects are obtained - products, models, layouts. Any object can be modeled using the most various materials and technician. Making a model requires having some knowledge about the original object. Absolute similarity is not necessary, but the model must reflect (imitate) the essential features of the original object. There may be models.

By designing clothing we mean creating a drawing-development of the surface of the human body with given allowances for freedom and drawing model lines. The purpose of industrial design is to develop a flat drawing or development of a product. The assembled flat cut parts create a voluminous shell of the finished product.

When developing a design, it is necessary to take into account the aesthetic parameters of clothing and at the same time comply with the technical requirements of individual or mass tailoring.

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A design is a drawing that clearly demonstrates the arrangement of parts, silhouette, cut, model lines of a sewing or knitted product. The quality of finished clothing depends on the accuracy of the measurements taken or the standards taken as a basis, on the quality of the calculations and on the chosen design methodology.

The basic drawing contains model lines, displaying the cutting features and details that are characteristic of a particular model. A correctly designed and simulated design of a garment must have certain characteristics.

1. Comply with the designer’s idea in shape, proportions and details.
2. Provide wearing comfort due to the right choice increases and taking into account the properties of the fabric.
3. The technological subtleties of cutting and sewing assembly must be taken into account.
4. Ensure balance and separation of parts.
5. Have the possibility of subsequent repetition in patterns to create new similar models.

The implementation of these requirements is possible with correct reading of the technical drawing, exactly taken measurements and taking into account the characteristics of the selected fabric.

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To create a design, you need to carefully study the drawing, analyze the proportions and details. Then measurements are taken from the figure or standard parameters are taken, including the length of the product.

Scheme of construction

• Building the foundation.
• Designation of baselines.
• Drawing model features of a specific model.

For practical application in the modern domestic and world school of cutting, two fundamental systems are used:

• fake;
• calculation and graphic.

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Each cutting technique has features and characteristics. Some clothing design systems and methods do not take into account the deformation properties of materials and the deployment accuracy class. Others require high-tech equipment. When creating clothing drawings, international and domestic schools use methods that work with development patterns. In all methods, a flat drawing is constructed that describes a three-dimensional three-dimensional human figure. Then it is finalized using mock-ups and fittings.

History of design methods

Dummy methods

Historically, the first method of cutting clothes was a dummy method of pinning fabric onto a living figure. The principle is to pin fabric onto a static torso or mannequin, indicating a change in planes and creating constructive and modeling lines. Then the contours and selected volumes are transferred to paper. The cut material is assembled into a product, followed by fitting to clarify the lines on a static figure or mannequin.

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This method is also called the mock-up method (or the pinning method), as it is used to make mock-ups of the first samples of the product using pins.

The dummy method is used in modern design for modeling:

• unique items of clothing level “ haute couture”;
• complex cut products with draperies and complex shaped details;
• models for non-standard figure;
• models of cut and outer knitwear;
• corsetry;
• historical costume.

The advantage of the prototyping method is the ability to take into account the features of the figure and specifications fabrics – drapability and plasticity. It makes it possible to see the shape and proportions of the product before it is assembled without preliminary calculations. At the same time, the tattooing method requires special knowledge - the principles of visual perception, the basics of design and the features of a specific technique.

Calculation and graphic methods

Calculation and graphic methods for constructing clothing designs arose at the beginning of the 19th century. They were created by tailors who transferred the experience of hand-cutting and working with a living figure into simple formulas. Calculation methods began to be used in individual tailoring, then found their practical application in mass production during the industrialization of the 20th century. Different countries and masters had their own methods based on specific experience.

• Drittel system

Already in 1800, the British cutter Michel created his own “Drittel” cutting principle. He based it on the measurement of chest circumference. The cutter divided half the chest circumference into three parts, constructing a rectangle in each, which was then unfolded into the piece. His method was quite progressive and made it possible to repeat similar objects of different sizes.

On the basis of the Drittel grid, a cellular system for creating a drawing was then created, which later made it possible to systematize European techniques.

• French system

After the introduction of the metric system in Europe, tailors began using measuring tape as it is known today. At the same time, a method for constructing parts based on horizontal measurements was created in France. Even then, a drawing gradation based on one basic size was developed. At the same time, the French system did not take into account the features of a non-standard figure and height.

• German “Muller & Sohn”

G.A. Muller in 1840 created a new system for cutting parts. His technique for the first time took into account the fact that a figure is a complex three-dimensional figure. To take measurements, Muller used the principle of trigonometry. When constructing the structure, arc notches were made with a compass on three sides of the triangles.

The Muller & Sohn design school successfully exists today and is used all over the world, including Russia.

• Design methodology of TsNIISHP EMKO SEV

With the advent of industrialization and the need to provide for the population through mass production, a systematization of schools and principles of construction arose. Individual measurements were replaced by standard ones and calculations of correlated characteristics from the main measurements of the figure.

Gradually, a new coordinate proportional-calculation system emerged, which took into account standard measurements and calculated proportions. The authors of various methods continued to accept different body configurations as the norm.

In the USSR, in 1934, the Korotkov design system was created, which was intended for mass production of sewing assortments. This system was periodically supplemented taking into account updated and supplemented population measurements, which gave a clearer relationship between the dimensional characteristics of various typologies of figures.

As a result of many years of systematization of knowledge, in 1956 the Central Research Institute of the Garment Industry developed a standard domestic design method. Friendly CMEA member countries helped and participated in measuring the population and improving the system. As a result of massive research, the classic cutting and modeling technique of the TsNIISHP EMKO SEV was implemented.

The research institute continued to work to improve a unified methodology for all types of clothing. The new recommendations took into account certain standards in measurements, their dependence and allowances for freedom of movement and model assumptions. Official documents were developed that recommended increases and allowances depending on the range of clothing, the properties of materials, the technologies and equipment introduced.

However, changes in fashion trends and manufacturing technologies occurred faster than government agencies issued documents for the production of drawings, modeling and additions.

Engineering methods

Engineering methods are based on solving the problem of differential geometry about covering the surface, taking into account the ability of the material to change the angle between the perpendicular threads of the weft and warp.

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Triangulation method

All engineering systems for creating structures are based on the principle of surface development volumetric figure and construction of a flat drawing. The triangulation method consists of dividing the surface into large triangles. The method requires mandatory verification of the design on primary samples.

Cutting plane method

The method was created in the USSR in 1954 and is based on obtaining a development using the principles of descriptive geometry. The plane of a figure is conventionally equated to a geometric surface that unfolds into a plane.

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Geodetic line method

The principle consists of drawing lines on the surface of a volumetric figure and modeling planar developments of parts. Currently, the method is used in scanning three-dimensional objects.

Method for calculating part developments based on samples

It is based on the so-called “Chebyshev networks” on a volumetric surface along orthogonal geodetic axes. The warp and weft threads of some mesh material are attached to them. The resulting Chebyshev network is laid in rectangular coordinate axes to obtain a flat surface development.

Modern practically applied techniques

TsOTSHL

IN practical work For the construction of basic drawings and modeling of garment designs in the USSR and Russia in recent decades, predominantly domestic techniques have been used.

• EMKO TsNIISHP, created for mass sewing production.
• Capacity for individual items of clothing. It was developed at the Central Experimental Technological Sewing Laboratory based on the TsNIISHP system.

These calculation and graphic methods are characterized by simplified formulas for calculating the basic drawing and a small number of figure measurements. It was analyzed and noted that for a female figure, characterized by a straight posture, low shoulder slopes and fuller than standard arms, clothing produced with the help of the Central Scientific Research Institute of Shipping is suitable. For figures who have a straight posture, average shoulder position, fairly slender arms and moderately developed mammary glands - TsOTSHL.

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EMKO SEV

Also, in the mass production of garments in the CIS, the Unified Methodology is used, which was created in the 80s. The methodology summarized the measurements, cutting and modeling experience of the member countries of the former CMEA. The EMKO SEV method was the first to create the system computer-aided design clothes. The technique is used in Russia and Eastern Europe. It has been noticed that EMKO SEV works well for figures with relatively normal posture and somewhat low shoulder position.

"Muller & Sohn"

The advantages of the modern German school of cutting “Muller & Sohn” lie in the optimal small number of basic measurements, the possibility of use in both individual and mass production of clothing. The required measurements are calculated based on the basic measurements of the figure.

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From the point of view of specificity and better fit of the figure, “Muller & Sohn” works well when creating an assortment for thin European-type figures with high shoulders and undefined gluteal muscles.

VDMTI

To create drawings and designs of knitwear, the All-Union House of Models has developed its own VDMTI methodology, which is used by modern Russian specialists. It uses formulas that take into account the stretchability and minus increases characteristic of knitwear. The technique works for both underwear and outerwear of various weaves. In addition to the classical method, knitwear designers take into account the prototyping method to clarify the fit and stretchability of new fabrics that have not been studied in the laboratory.

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In modern design, three-dimensional creation of development drawings is also used, which, obviously, is the future of clothing. This method is used exclusively with the use of computer programs and has a fairly high accuracy.

Stages of the three-dimensional method

• Development of a three-dimensional model after capturing three-dimensional anthropometric data of a figure through scanning.
• Development of flat drawings of parts by unfolding three-dimensional models.

Despite the existence of various schools of clothing design, in practical applications both the latest computer programs that take into account several systems and traditional manual construction techniques are used. The method of prototyping or tattooing is actively used to create unique models and in fitting sour cream samples to clarify the details of the cut.

Some specialists use mixed techniques:

• creating a drawing base based on classical calculation methods and finishing the modeling lines using the tattooing method;
• creating the basis for the design of a new model using prototyping and final modeling on a paper drawing.

There are a number of design techniques designed to create patterns, which take into account the seam reserves specified and determined by the technology, with the application of cutting lines and the creation of notches. A variety of techniques and systems are used that perform computer grading or reproduction of patterns by size and height based on one basic design.

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Thus, to obtain the ideal design of a product, you can use either one technique or combine several cutting and modeling options. The practical choice of design methodology depends on the preferences of a particular sewing school and the specialization of the department of sewing educational institutions.

Design - the second stage of creation garment. Its goal is to develop drawings of product parts and make patterns based on them for subsequent cutting of materials. Patterns are flat templates of clothing parts made of paper, cardboard or metal. Subsequent transformations of flat parts should ensure the creation of a three-dimensional shell covering the human body or its individual parts. The design is the parts of a product connected to each other.

When developing a design, one should proceed not only from the requirements for clothing as an item of personal consumption, but at the same time take into account the requirements for an object of mass production. From these positions, the design should:

♦ match the original model in silhouette, shape, design lines, finish, etc. This is achieved due to the accuracy of pattern calculations;

♦ contribute to the formation of a set of properties taking into account the requirements for clothing. This is, first of all, compliance of the design with the size and shape of the human body, ease of use, ensuring comfortable conditions for the functioning of the body, high wear resistance, etc.;

♦ be economical and technologically advanced at the same time. This is especially important for conditions of mass production of garments. An economical design is one whose creation is characterized by the lowest costs and waste of materials. Manufacturability is associated with minimizing labor costs for manufacturing a product;

♦ ensure a good fit of the product on the human figure. It is laid down in the design drawings and largely depends on the correctness of the calculations. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the influence of possible loads on individual components and parts during the future operation of products, leading to a change in their shape. Naturally, an optimal choice of the structural design of the product is necessary, the division of its individual elements, which would provide the most acceptable conditions for the “working” of materials and parts in all areas of clothing;

♦ provide the ability to create a family of structures based on the optimal one (method of basic structures).

The implementation of the considered requirements requires taking into account when designing a number of features that are important for consumers and the operation of future products.

These main features are:

♦ size characteristics of the population;

♦ features of posture of human figures;

♦ age characteristics;

♦ design differences and method of use of products.

The conditions of mass production do not allow taking into account the individual physique characteristics of each consumer. The solution is to produce a limited number of clothing options for standard (standard) body sizes. A typical figure is considered to be the one most typical for the majority of the population in terms of basic dimensions and shape. A rational system of typical figures that most fully takes into account the characteristics of the body shape and dimensional characteristics of the population is called dimensional typology. It is based on data on the structure and size of figures, patterns of their variability, and principles of standardization. Information about the structure and features of the form is obtained on the basis of measurements (anthropometry) of the human body and its parts. Its complex structure requires taking into account 60-70 different dimensional characteristics: girth (girth of the torso, neck, head, limbs); longitudinal (body length, arms); transverse (width of the chest, back, distance between the centers of the chest).

Information about the physique and size characteristics of the population is obtained based on body measurements using the method

kam developed by the Research Institute of Anthropology named after D.N. Anuchin (NIIA MSU) together with the Central Research Institute of the Garment Industry (DNIISHP) (Fig. 4.3, 4.4, a-c). The results of the measurements formed the basis for the development of dimensional typology, as well as dimensional anthropological standards for the figures of adults and children.

Rice. Basic constructive horizontal and vertical lines for measuring figures

From the variety of dimensional characteristics of figures, the leading ones have been identified: size, height, fullness.

Size is the circumference of the torso at chest level. Typical Figures by size (inter-dimensional interval - 4 cm): men - 84-128; women - 84-136.

Rice. Male body types (according to Bunak): a - chest; 6—muscular; c - abdominal

Height is the length of the torso without shoes from the top of the head to the floor. Typical figures by height (height interval - 6 cm): men - 158-188; women - 146-176.

Fatness reflects body type and changes in figure with age. It is determined by the waist circumference in men and children, hip circumference, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen in women.

According to completeness, the following variants of figures were identified (interval interval ± 2 cm): men - 70-130; women - 88-144.

The size typology of children has certain features.

Size typology of the child population

End of table. 4.1

End of table. 4.1

Taking into account the posture of figures is of great importance for the design of clothing. Posture is characterized by the position of the body and the height of the shoulders. The position of the body is determined by the distance from the seventh cervical vertebra to the plane that a person touches with the shoulder blades and buttocks.

Based on posture, there are five types of figures: normal, kinked, stooped, very kinked and very stooped. The main ones are the first three types of figures.

A normal, or proportionally folded, figure in posture has a wavy curve of the spine, straightened knees and a slight deviation of the axes of the shoulder, hip and knee joints forward from the vertical passing through the ankle joint.

In a conventionally typical figure, the width of the chest and back are the same or deviate slightly.

The inflected figure has a backward tilt of the body. The curves of the spine in such a figure are smoothed, the shoulders are pulled back, the width of the chest is greater than the width of the back.

The stooped figure has a forward tilt, a wide rounded back, a sunken chest and a long waist.

The height of the shoulders is determined by the vertical distance from the tangent to the seventh cervical vertebra to the lowest point of the shoulder slope. There are normal, low-shoulder and high-shoulder figures.

Since the shape and size of the body change with age, this should be taken into account when developing a dimensional typology and in design. Conventionally, the population is divided into three groups: younger (20-29 years old), middle (30-44 years old) and older (45 years old and older). This division is due to the completion of the formation of the human body by the age of 20 and significant changes in the physique after 60 years.

When designing, it is also necessary to take into account the design features and method of use of the products. Based on this, four categories can be distinguished:

1) waist products - their basis is the shoulder girdle of the human body (coat, dress, shirt, etc.);

2) waist products for which the pelvic girdle serves as the basis (trousers, skirts, etc.);

3) hats;

4) sewing products not related to clothing (bed linen, sports and tourist equipment, etc.).

Grouping of sewing products and parts by design

The general goal of clothing design is to create a three-dimensional shell covering the human body, which involves the sequential performance of a number of works:

♦ collection of data on the structure of the dimensional characteristics of figures and determination of increases (allowances) to them;

♦ production of patterns for product parts;

♦ cutting materials according to patterns, sewing the product and fitting it on a figure (mannequin of a typical build);

♦ clarification of the patterns and drawing of the design basis based on the results of fitting the product on the figure;

♦ development of a drawing of the basic structure.

Rice. Jacket details:

1 - shelves and back; 2 — sleeve; 3 - collar, hem, flap and facing of side pocket, leaflet; 4 - internal and intermediate parts and details: a - side padding, 6 - hair, c - hairline, d - padding for hinges, 3 - side edge, e - shoulder pad, g - shoulder pad, h - shoulder pad

Rice. Parts of trousers and joints of parts:

1 - belt; 2—cross-shaped seams; 3—side pocket in frame; 4—patch pocket with flaps; 5—codpiece; b—front half of trousers; 7—side seam; c—step seam; 9 — back half of trousers; 10 — cuffs; 11 - slope

The starting points for developing a basic drawing are: a model, dimensional characteristics of human figures, as well as allowances (increases) for the measurements of the figures.

When developing a design, the three-dimensional form of models should be deployed on a plane. This is done by cutting the model along the main lines of the structure.

When the material is subsequently laid out on a plane, a structure is obtained. This method of construction is called dummy. It can also be implemented on the basis of placing a model on the plane of a mock-up (moulage), i.e. parts made of light, cheap materials fitted to the figure (mannequin). The use of this method is limited to original, custom designs.

Along with dummy design, computational and computational-analytical design methods can be used in design. The essence of the calculation method is to use formulas for preliminary calculations and subsequent drawing of parts. The most widespread is the calculation and analytical method as the basis of a unified method of clothing design (EMKO), improved by the Central Experimental and Technical Sewing Laboratory (TSOTSL). The method is scientifically proven, based on anthropometric research data. In this case, all structural elements are determined by calculation. The method is based on the unity of the principle of constructing the structural layout of men's, women's and children's clothing EMKO and includes two stages of constructing a design drawing:

♦ constructing a drawing of the basis of the structure;

♦ constructing a drawing of product parts based on the design.

The design basis drawing (grid of dimensions) represents

a system of horizontal and vertical lines reflecting the average size, height and fullness of a typical figure. So, for men the typical figure is 176-100-88, i.e. height 176 cm, size 100 cm and fullness (waist circumference) - 88 cm.

At the second stage of design, drawings of product parts are made on the drawing of the basic structure. The basis for this are the standards of dimensional characteristics of figures,

Rice. Headwear details:

Rice. Headwear details:

1 - bottom; 2 - quarters; 3 - band; 4 - button; 5 - belt loop; b - strap; 7— visor

EMKO provisions. In this case, increases (allowances) are taken into account at the same time. They can be divided into three groups:

1) allowances for a loose fit, which provide freedom of movement, breathing, and minimizing the pressure of clothing on the human body;

2) structural and decorative - to provide a certain silhouette and volumetric-spatial form provided for by the artistic design of the model;

3) technical - on seams and hems, thickness of main and auxiliary materials.

Drawings of product parts are the basis for the original patterns of the product, which serve as standards. On their basis, using the method of proportional increments or reductions, a set of patterns is made for the entire range of sizes, heights, and weights provided for the model. Computer-aided design (CAD) systems are used and actively improved, providing not only the construction of drawings of parts (patterns), but also their reproduction to other sizes, heights, and completeness. The final element of design is the development and reproduction of a technical description.

The technical description should be considered as the main regulatory and technical document for the product. It includes the main characteristics of the model:

♦ a sketch (photograph) of the model and its description;

♦ range of sizes, heights and weights;

♦ specifications of materials and parts;

♦ features of technological processing of parts and assemblies;

♦ quality control and assessment;

♦ tables of measurements of patterns and products.

The importance of the technical description is that it allows: to monitor the progress of production; carry out quality acceptance at industrial and commercial enterprises; estimate the consumption of materials for the product - essential element its cost.

Size typology of population for mass production of clothing

The main dimensional characteristics of the human body- dimensional characteristics that determine the typical (standard) figure and, accordingly, the dimensions of the products.

Indifference interval- the gap between the adjacent main characteristics of typical figures of adults and children, within which the difference between sizes is not felt by the consumer. It is established empirically and means that the same size is suitable for figures in which it not only coincides with the actual one, but is also greater or less than its value within half the indifference interval.

Normal posture- correct, balanced posture, characterized by a straight body position. The shoulders are generally of medium height, the back is slightly rounded, without sharp protrusion of the shoulder blades, the chest is flat, straight with an average position of the mammary glands, the stomach is slightly protruding, the deflection in the waist area along the spine is moderate, average.

Girth- the perimeter of a certain area of ​​the human body (chest circumference, waist circumference, neck circumference, etc.). Determines the width of the product in the corresponding area.

Hip circumference taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen- the main dimensional feature of typical figures of women and teenage girls, determined in the horizontal plane through the buttock points and a flexible plate applied vertically to the abdomen to take into account its protrusion.

Waist circumference- the main dimensional characteristic of typical figures of men, boys and girls over three years of age, except for teenage girls, measured in the horizontal plane at the level of the waist line.

Posture- an individual feature of the configuration of the human body, a characteristic of the balanced, vertical, natural (calm) position of the human body when standing and walking upright. Posture depends on the shape of the spine and torso, the position of the head and legs. Posture determines the fit of the product on the figure.

Kinky posture- a type of posture characterized by a greater or lesser deviation of the body back. Shoulders turned back; the back has a relatively straight vertical position; the chest is deployed with an increased position of the mammary glands; the stomach is flat or sunken; the deflection in the waist area along the spine and the protrusion of the buttocks is greater than that of a figure with normal posture.

Subordinate dimensional characteristics of the human body- dimensional characteristics (with the exception of the main ones), giving a detailed dimensional characteristic of a typical figure.

Completeness- characteristics of the body type of the figure, as well as age-related variability of the figure. An indicator of fullness in women and teenage girls is the circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen; in men, boys and girls over three years old, except for teenage girls, it is the waist circumference.

Complete group- a set of typical figures with certain ratios of figure size and fullness, growth options.

Complete subgroup- part of a complete group of standard figures, including more than five or six variants of figures.

Transverse dimension— the width of a separate area of ​​the human body (back, chest, etc.). Defines the width of the corresponding part of the body or part of the product.

Longitudinal measurement— the length of a person’s body (height) or the length of its individual part (arms, waistline height, etc.) Determines the length of the product as a whole or its individual part.

Clothing size- a value determined by half the size of a typical figure.

Figure size- the main dimensional feature of the typical figure of adults and children, determined by the size of the chest girth of the third, measured in the horizontal plane through the protruding points of the mammary glands.

Size typology of the population- a rational system of standard (typical) figures that quite accurately reflects the shape of the human body.

Size, size and complete range of clothing- percentage of clothes various sizes, lengths, fullness.

Dimensional sign of the human body- measurement of a certain part of the body along the surface or the distance between two points of the body in projection onto a vertical or horizontal plane.

Height- the main dimensional feature of the typical figure of adults and children, determined by the length of the body from the apex of the head to the floor (without shoes).

Appropriate clothing- mass-produced clothing that fits the majority of the population.

Slouched posture- a type of posture characterized by a greater and lesser tilt of the body forward. The shoulders are most often directed forward and occupy a lower or low position; the back is round, with increased protrusion of the shoulder blades; the chest is sunken, narrow, with a low position of the mammary glands; protruding belly; the deflection in the waist area along the spine and the protrusion of the buttocks is less than that of a figure with normal posture.

Scale of percentage distribution of typical figures (scale of standard sizes)- a table reflecting the number of standard figures accepted for production (male, female or children) as a percentage (frequency of occurrence of figures) in different regions of Russia. Determines the size, size and complete range of clothing.

Design of garments

Design of garments— the process of creating a new (primary) product sample and developing all the necessary technical documentation. Includes two interrelated stages - modeling and design.

Harmonic integrity of the clothing form— artistic unity, consistency of parts of a single whole (colors, textures, materials, etc.).

Decorative lines- lines created by various finishings - stitches, reliefs, embroidery, piping, belts, cuffs, etc.

Tapered silhouette- the outline of a product that is narrowed from top to bottom.

Combined silhouette- the outline of a product with a straight upper part and a widened or narrowed lower part.

Compositional balance— balance of all elements of the product, depending on the distribution of mass, color, texture of the material relative to the center, taking into account the balance of the figure. The compositional connections between the parts of the form are color, color, proportions, contrast, similarity, nuance, symmetry, asymmetry, rhythm.

Composition of clothes- the combination of all elements of the product form into a single whole, expressing its ideological and artistic content. The main properties of the composition are harmonic integrity, subordination of parts, compositional balance.

Structurally decorative lines- structural lines, decorated with finishes.

Construction lines- lines indicating the contours of the product as a whole and its parts, as well as lines connecting parts and parts (seams, darts, reliefs, etc.).

Lines— restrictions on the contours of the shape of the product as a whole and its parts, as well as the main means of connecting parts of the shape. According to the nature of the lines, they are divided into constructive, decorative, and structural-decorative.

Maxi- location of the bottom line in the silhouette at ankle level or at floor level.

Weight of clothing form- visual three-dimensional perception of the shape of the product as a whole or its individual parts.

Midi— location of the bottom line of the silhouette at calf level (between mini and maxi).

Mini- location of the bottom line in the silhouette above the knees.

Modeling of sewing products- the creative process of creating (developing) a new model or primary sample of a product, taking into account its purpose and conditions environment, properties of materials. The objects of development are the shape, silhouette, cut of the product; selection of materials, shaping methods; composition of elements, color scheme.

Sewing product model- a primary sample in which the design of an artist-fashion designer is embodied in the material, serving as a standard for the further process of manufacturing (replicating) products.

Volume-spatial structure of the shape of a garment- a spatial system of geometric elements - sizes, proportions, etc.

Surface of clothing form- product shape configuration - rectilinear, curvilinear (convex, concave), broken (folds, pleated, corrugated).

The cut of the garment- a constructive solution to the volumetric-spatial structure of a form by dividing it into parts horizontally, vertically and diagonally and connecting individual parts along lines.

Semi-fitting silhouette- the outline of the product, the waistline of which is slightly emphasized.

Adjacent silhouette- the outline of the product that fits tightly and emphasizes the waistline.

Straight silhouette- the outline of a product, the width of which is the same at the level of the chest, waist, hips and bottom lines.

Clothes silhouette— outline, external outline, planar image of the volumetric shape of a product. The silhouette of clothing is classified according to the degree of fit of the product to the figure (straight, semi-fitting, adjacent, widened or narrowed at the bottom, combined), according to the type of geometric shape to which it approaches (rectangular, trapezoidal, oval, X-shaped), according to the position of the hemline (mini, midi, maxi).

Subordination of product parts- subordination of secondary parts to the main element - the compositional center, which in clothing can be any element or section of the form (collar lines, pockets, color, trim, etc.).

Trapezoidal (loose) silhouette- the outline of the product, which is extended from the chest line to the bottom.

Sewing product model shape- the boundary separating the product from the external environment, its contours. It is characterized by volumetric-spatial structure and composition.

Forming properties of materials- the ability of materials to take a three-dimensional shape under the influence of bending, stretching, compression, and thinning deformations.

Shaping- creating a three-dimensional shape of a product using seams, darts, forming properties of materials, wet-heat treatment and their various combinations.

Balance in clothing- a product design indicator that determines the balance of the front and rear parts, established through correct calculation. Balance determines the fit of the product on the figure.

IN auxiliary patterns- patterns designed for drawing auxiliary lines, cut contours, lines for pockets, loops, etc.

Decorative- constructive allowance - an allowance set during the modeling process depending on the type of clothing, fashion trend, silhouette, degree of fit of the product to the body.

Composition allowance- the sum of allowances for a loose fit along the chest, waist, hips and for the thickness of the materials.

Design of garments— the process of developing drawings of product parts based on the primary sample (model) and making patterns (patterns). Clothing is designed for a figure of average size and height in the full group or subgroup for which this model is recommended.

Design- the structure of a product from individual parts connected into a single harmonious whole. The design must ensure the economic feasibility of the product. In mass production, the design must be economical and technologically advanced.

Control patterns— reference patterns intended for periodic checking of working patterns.

Patterns (patterns)- flat templates of parts of a product made of paper, cardboard, plastic, metal, according to which materials are cut.

Minimum required allowance for a loose fit- an allowance that ensures freedom of breathing, movement, minimal pressure of the product on the body, the presence of an air layer for skin breathing and regulation of heat exchange in the under clothing layer (between clothing and body). The size of the allowance depends on the type and purpose of the product and is established experimentally.

Supporting surface of clothing- areas of contact between clothing and the human body. The upper supporting surface is limited from above by the lines of articulation of the torso with the neck and upper limbs, from below - by a line passing through the protruding points of the shoulder blades and chest. The lower supporting surface is limited from above by the waist line, from below by the hip line.

Continuity of garment models— the possibility of using previously developed variants of part designs in new models.

Allowance (increase)- the difference between the clothing measurement and the corresponding dimensional characteristic of the figure.

Loose fit allowance- the difference between the internal dimensions of clothing below the supporting surface and the corresponding body measurements. Consists of the minimum required allowance for a loose fit and a decorative and constructive one.

Allowance for processing- allowance for possible shrinkage of materials during the manufacturing process.

Allowance for the thickness of a package of clothing materials- the difference between external and internal dimensions in multilayer products.

Working patterns- templates used directly for cutting materials.

Computer-aided clothing design system

(CAD)— a design system that uses modern technical means (automation, computers, displays, plotters), which can significantly reduce design time and improve quality.

Standardization of structural elements of garments— establishment of uniform standards for the size of standardized parts.

Technical description for the model (technical conditions)- a document, the development of which completes the design, including: sketch and description appearance products, recommended materials, dimensions and heights, a table of measurements of the finished product, containing the absolute values ​​of measurements of patterns and the finished product in the main places and permissible deviations from them, recommended methods for processing complex components of the product, specifications of parts and patterns, norms of material consumption for the product medium size and height.

T technical reproduction of patterns— production of patterns of all required sizes and heights (lengths) by proportionally reducing and increasing the linear dimensions of patterns of average size and height.

Manufacturability of the design of the garment- a design indicator characterizing its ability to ensure minimal labor costs for the manufacture of a product through the use of advanced technologies and equipment. The manufacturability of a design depends on the continuity of models: typification, unification, standardization of design elements.

Typification of structural elements of garments— reasonable reduction of the variety of parts designs to the minimum required number of standard ones.

Unification of structural elements of garments— bringing to uniformity of designs of individual components and parts without compromising the appearance and quality of products with the same functional purpose.

Economical design of garments- a design indicator characterizing its ability to ensure minimal consumption and minimal losses of materials during the production of a product, as well as minimal consumer costs for its operation.

Preparing for cutting and cutting materials

Non-flooring method of cutting material— cutting material into one sheet directly from a roll with a laser beam, microplasma arc, etc.

Cutting out parts of a garment— cutting out parts along the intended contours using cutting equipment.

Cutting out parts of a garment— cutting out parts of products of stable structures on presses using knife-punches shaped like the parts being cut out.

Defective canvas- a sheet of material whose use in flooring is limited due to the presence of significant defects. Inadmissible concepts according to GOST (NDP). Red canvas.

Material cutting map— a technological document containing the task for laying a batch of material and actual cutting data.

Material calculation card— a technological document containing a cutting task. NDP. Settlement card, planning card.

Control notch of a garment part- a small cut along the edge of the part, intended to indicate the correct connection of the parts.

Confectioning— selection for each model of all materials (basic, cushioning, heat-protective, fittings, finishing, etc.) according to articles, colors, patterns, etc. in accordance with the technical descriptions for the model and orders of trade organizations.

Confection card- a card compiled for each model and containing a sketch of the model, samples of basic and auxiliary materials indicating articles, colors, drawings, etc.

Copying pattern layout— reproduction of pattern layouts on the material in full size or on a reduced scale. NDP. Copying the pattern layout.

Cutting of a garment- parts and their parts obtained as a result of cutting.

Multiple pattern layout— layout of patterns, including more than one set of patterns for product parts.

Flooring- several sheets of material on a plane, superimposed on one another with their alignment along two perpendicular sides and intended for cutting in accordance with the material calculation card.

Laying material face down- laying sheets of material face down.

Laying material “face to face”” - laying sheets of material in pairs with their front sides facing each other. NDP. Laying the material “face to face”.

Laying sheets of material— laying sheets of material to obtain flooring.

Shallowing- a sheet of material on which the contours of the patterns in the layout are outlined, cut together with the flooring into parts. Shallowing is used when cutting materials for frequently changing s models.

One-set pattern layout— layout of patterns, including a set of patterns for parts of one product.

Trimming a part (material) of a garment— clarification of the dimensions and contours of the part according to patterns using cutting equipment. NDP. Basics.

Fabric material- one layer of material prepared for cutting. The material includes fabrics, leather and others used for the manufacture of garments.

R folding patterns of sewing parts— diagram of the location of product parts.

Ra cut the material (flooring) - cutting material (flooring), cutting and cutting out parts of the product and their parts.

Cutting the flooring— division of the flooring into parts intended for further cutting. NDP. Flooring cutting.

Calculation of a piece of material— preliminary calculation of each piece of material based on consumption rates in order to determine a rational option for its use. NDP. Calculation of material use.

Stencil- a piece of kraft paper or oilcloth, on which holes are punched along the contours of the pattern in the layout. The contours of the parts on the top sheet of the flooring remain after powdering with chalk or blue through the stencil holes. Stencils are used when cutting materials for long-term production models.

Connecting parts and assemblies of garments

Stitching sewing parts- temporary thread connection of parts along an oval contour.

Sewing sewing parts- thread connection of parts along an oval contour.

Basting sewn parts- temporary thread fastening of hemmed edges to preserve the specific shape given to them.

Cutting out a section of a garment- decorating the edge of the part with a figured cutout. NDP. Die-cutting a section of a part, die-cutting with a tooth.

Quilting parts (material) of a garment- the connection of two or more parts or layers of material, superimposed on each other, with hidden or through stitches in individual areas or over the entire surface. NDP. Stitching, fastening.

Dart- a seam that does not run along the entire length or width of the part.

Stitch length- distance between two needle punctures sewing machine, measured in millimeters.

Duplicating (fixing) parts of a garment- a surface connection of two or more, mostly small, parts by gluing or welding.

Rivet connection of parts of a garment— connecting parts and their parts by riveting special fittings (buttons, snaps, rivets, blocks, etc.).

Sewing sewn parts- temporary thread fastening of the folded edge of a part, folds, darts, tucks.

Seam stitching- laying a stitch to secure the folded edge of a part or product, folds, darts, tucks.

Adhesive fastening of a cut of a garment part- gluing the cut of the part to protect it from shedding.

Adhesive connection of garment parts- connecting parts and their parts or layers of material using adhesive materials (threads, cobwebs, mesh, films).

Combined connection of parts of a garment- joining of parts and their parts using a combination of the thread method with adhesive or welding.

Setting up a seam— laying a line when placing one part on another to connect them; securing seam allowances and folds directed in one direction.

Thread connection of parts of a garment- joining parts and their parts with machine or hand stitches using sewing threads.

Overcasting a garment piece— thread fastening of a cut of a part or a slot to protect it from shedding. NDP. Marking the part.

Turning parts of a garment- thread connection of parts with their subsequent unscrewing.

Edging a garment part- processing the cut of a part with a strip of material, braid for finishing or protection from shedding. NDP. Part edging.

ABOUT melting the cut of a garment part— processing of a cut of a part made of thermoplastic materials using a thermal method to protect it from shedding.

Hemming a garment piece- attaching the folded edge of the part with hidden stitches. NDP. Filing of parts.

Sewing garments— manufacturing of products using thread connection. NDP. Sewing.

Gluing a garment piece- adhesive connection of a small part with the main one.

Basting sewn parts- temporary thread connection small parts with large ones.

Seam allowance- an addition to the cuts of parts to protect the seam from destruction.

Sewing sewn parts- thread connection of small parts with large ones.

Seam taping- applying glue to the parts in the seam area, followed by gluing a strip of material or tape.

Unstitching the seam— laying stitches on parts to secure seam allowances and folds directed in opposite directions.

Welded connection of parts of a garment— joining parts and their parts by welding thermoplastic materials without the use of additional materials (sewing threads, adhesives).

Basting sewn parts- temporary thread connection of two or more parts.

Sewing garment parts- a thread connection of two or more parts along aligned edges.

Stitch- one element of the stitch structure, obtained with the thread method between two successive punctures of the material with a needle, with the threadless method - between the contacts of the tool with the materials being joined.

Line- a sequential row of stitches.

Front duplication (front fixation) of parts of a garment- connecting large parts over the entire surface or part of it by gluing or welding.

Chain stitch- an element of thread stitching that has a loop structure obtained using a looper by inserting each new loop into the previous one.

Stitch frequency- the number of stitches in one centimeter of line.

Lockstitch- an element of thread stitch obtained by interlacing two threads - the upper one, wound from the spool, and the lower one, wound from the bobbin of the sewing machine shuttle.

Sewing connection- the connection of two or more layers of material through one or more seams.

Seam width— the distance from the cut of a part, a folded edge, the edge of a braid, etc., to a stitch, or from a stitching line to a stitching line, finishing line, etc., according to the model, measured in centimeters.

The seam- a place of fastening, a successive row of stitches on a material with a thickness of one or several layers.

Wet heat treatment and final finishing operations

Wet-heat treatment of garments- processing of parts or products using special equipment using moisture, heat, pressure to give parts a three-dimensional shape, fix seams, level the surface, give the product a marketable appearance, etc.

In-process wet-heat treatment of garments— processing of parts and assemblies of the product to give a three-dimensional shape, bending edges, processing seams, etc.

Extruding lines- an operation of wet-heat treatment, which consists in the formation of relief (concave) lines in certain areas of the part for its finishing by pressing.

Leveling the surface of garment parts- a wet-heat treatment operation consisting of eliminating wrinkles, folds, and creases in the material to give the product a marketable appearance by ironing, pressing or steaming.

Final finishing operations for the manufacture of garments- operations intended for the final design of the product, giving it a marketable appearance and consisting in the manufacture of loops, fastenings, sewing on fittings, cleaning, and final wet-heat treatment.

Setting- a series of longitudinal stitches 3-16 mm long, densely entwined with transverse zigzag stitches, performed through the ends of loops, pocket openings, corners of lapels and collars, folds to prevent them from destruction, as well as for finishing.

Z ironing a seam (part) of a garment- a wet-heat treatment operation consisting of laying (smoothing) seam allowances, edges or folds of a part on one side and securing them in this position by ironing or pressing. NDP. Ironing.

Final wet-heat treatment of a garment— processing of the finished product to give it a marketable appearance.

Steaming a garment- a method of wet-heat treatment of a finished product for the final formation of a presentation using steam-air mannequins or steamers.

Steaming a garment- a wet-heat treatment operation consisting of treating the surface of a product with steam to remove lasses (see “Defects in garments”), relieve stress in the fibers, and impart a marketable appearance by ironing or steaming.

Pulling out sewing parts- a wet-heat treatment operation consisting of forced stretching of individual sections of parts through ironing or pressing in order to improve the fit of the figure.

Pressing a garment- a method of wet-heat treatment of seams, edges, and molding of parts using automatic or semi-automatic presses, the ironing surfaces of which have different shapes and sizes.

Ironing a seam (part) of a garment- a wet-heat treatment operation consisting of reducing the thickness of a seam, fold or edge of a part by ironing or pressing.

Steaming a garment— wet-heat treatment, ensuring saturation of the product with steam.

Ironing the parts of a garment- a wet-heat treatment operation consisting of laying out (smoothing) seam allowances or folds on opposite sides and securing them in this position by ironing or pressing. NDP. Ironing.

Satining the parts of a garment- an operation of wet-heat treatment, which consists in forcibly reducing the size of individual sections of a part to give it a voluminous (convex) shape by ironing or pressing.

Ironing (ironing) of a garment— method of wet-heat treatment for molding parts; processing seams, edges, parts, finished products using irons and pads of various shapes, calenders (for processing products of simple shapes).

Folding- a wet-heat treatment operation consisting of forced bending of the edges of parts (pockets, cuffs, belts, etc.) by ironing or pressing.

Board- the upper and widest part of the stocking, located on the thigh of the leg (side height 5-9 cm).

Toe- the trailing part of a hosiery covering the toes and shaped like a wedge-shaped pocket.

Ankle- the largest part of a stocking, half-stocking or sock, covering part of the thigh, knee and lower leg.

Heel- the trailing part of a hosiery covering the heel of the foot and having a spherical shape.

Track- the lower part of the hosiery covering the foot.

Glove parts

Frame- part of the mitten that covers the palm to the wrist.

Leggings- cut-off hem, widened at the bottom. The hem and leggings come with a slit, without a slit, with or without a fastener.

Wristband- part of the mitten that covers the wrist and lower part of the forearm.

Finger- Part glove product, covering all phalanges of the finger.

Podolik- the lower non-cut part of the glove, fitting the wrist.