Boat neck

To create a pattern for a bodice with a boat neck, we will use a drawing of the base of a dress with a semi-fitting silhouette. And you build on the basis that you will use when cutting.

You can, for example, build this neckline on the basis of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve. Or make a template for the neck of a boat, which will always be at hand.

If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, you will need this drawing in the future when mastering the modeling of various types and styles of clothing.

Let's copy the back and front of the bodice of the dress onto a blank sheet of paper. There is no need to transfer all letters and auxiliary lines. Copy only those letters and lines that will participate in the construction. Look at our picture below and the situation will become clearer.

For further construction we will need a separate back and shelf.

Shelf

Let's start with the shelf.
We'll close it during construction. chest dart and open it into a dart at the waistline.
To do this, we connect the tops of the darts (points G7 and 4) with a straight line and cut the shelf along this line. We close the chest dart by combining points B9 and B7, thereby increasing the opening of the dart at the waist line. See the picture below.

Rice. 2

From point P5 to the right along the shoulder seam, set aside 5 cm and place point P51.
We connect point P51 with a smooth curve to point B4 and get a new line neck front called "boat".

Rice. 3

As for the chest dart, it must be returned to its original position if the style of your product requires this. But you must remember that this dart can be placed anywhere on the shelf, adhering to the main rule: the top of the chest dart should always remain in place (this is point G7).

You can see how to correctly move a chest dart in our section, where, as an example, we demonstrated several options for moving it.

In our example, we will open the dart into the armhole. To do this, we put point K on the armhole line, the location of which determines the style of our product, and connect this point with the top of the dart, point G7.

Rice. 4

We cut the shelf along the marked line and move it apart, returning the lower part of the bodice to its original position, aligning the sides of the segment from point G7 to point 4. See the figure below.

Rice. 5

Do not forget to shorten the resulting dart by 2 - 3 cm to achieve smoothness when processing the bulge in the chest area.

To do this, we shift the top of the dart from the center by 2 - 3 cm and connect this top with straight lines to the ends of the dart.

Rice. 6

Back

Here, too, everything is extremely simple. Take a drawing of the back.

Rice. 7

Just like on the shelf, during construction we will close the shoulder dart and move it to the dart at the waist line.

Note :
During construction, you can move the dart to another place, for example, to the armhole or to the mid-back line.

The option we demonstrate for moving the dart is just an example. You can always proceed from your own considerations.

We connect the tops of the darts with a straight line, these are points O1 and 1. We cut the back along this line and spread it apart, aligning the sides of the shoulder dart. See the picture below.

Rice. 8

From point P1 to the left along the shoulder seam, set aside 5 cm and place point P10.
From point A we put 1cm down and put point A10.
We connect points A10 and P10 with a smooth curve and get a new line neck back called "boat".

Rice. 9

Return the dart to its original position.

Rice. 10

This completes the construction.

Note:
You can adjust the depth of the boat neckline yourself, based on your needs.
Given as an example, 5 cm, which we set aside from the edge of the shoulder, is not a constant value, you can change it at your discretion.

The shape of the neckline varies. We will return to this topic in future articles.

Rice. eleven

You will succeed!

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(Size 46)

Sweater with long sleeves(Fig. 40) is knitted from 650 g of white wool in stocking stitch. To embroider the ornament you need a little light pink or lilac, dark pink, yellow, purple, light green and dark green yarn. The knitting density horizontally is 2.2 loops per 1 cm, vertically - 3 rows per 1 cm.

The sweater pattern consists of five parts (Fig. 41): a back, two sleeves, a front and a collar.

For knitting backrests cast on 112 stitches in a tight cast and knit 12 rows in stockinette stitch. Then make a 2×1 rib, lowering every 3rd stitch to the starting row and raising it knit stitch. After the elastic band, the back is knitted according to the pattern.

For knitting sleeves cast on 51 stitches in a tight cast and knit 30 rows (10 cm) in stockinette stitch. Make a 2×1 rib, as on the back, and knit 99 rows (33 cm) to the armhole line, adding 1 loop on both sides 9 times after 6 rows and 6 times after 5 rows. Then the okat is knitted, closing the loops according to calculation. Leave loops for the width of the shoulder strap (see pattern) and, adding 1 loop on each side for the seam, knit it. The second sleeve is knitted in a mirror image.

For knitting front cast on 112 loops and knit to the chest line, like the back, but 2 cm longer. The excess along the side seam is placed when sewing the back and front parts at chest level. The loops of the armhole, neckline and along the shoulder strap line are closed according to calculation.

For knitting collar cast on 28 stitches with waste thread and, after knitting several rows, knit in stocking stitch 44 cm. Finish knitting with several rows of waste thread.

The details are steamed and embroidered according to the pattern (Fig. 42), taking into account that 1 loop in the pattern is equal in height to 2 rows. Unravel the waste threads and sew the collar with a knitted seam. Sew the parts together. The collar is sewn on using a quilt stitch along the pigtail.

Quite often, needlewomen experience difficulties when calculating and knitting the neckline in models of their own composition. This is especially true for products knitted with complex patterns. And often the result is a completely uninteresting neckline, as they say, “neither the mind nor the heart”... So the craftswomen are forced to knit the same “bob” or V-shaped neckline, like the simplest ones.
I will share with you my many years of experience and offer 3 very simple and effective options for knitting a neckline - a boat neckline, a deep oval neckline and a sweetheart neckline.
It doesn’t matter how you knit your blouse (or dress) - on knitting needles or on a machine. The technique I suggest works great in both cases.

Let's start with the boat neckline.

The depth of the cutout on the shelf is standard for all sizes and is 7 cm. On the back – 2-3 cm.
The shoulder width in this case should be no more than 7-8 cm, otherwise the neckline will not look beautiful.
To get a beautiful boat line, you need to do simple calculations:
subtract 12 loops from the total number of neck loops - for example, 50 - 12 = 38. That is, you need to immediately close 38 loops (19 loops to the right and left of the center of your blouse).
Then make the rounded edges of the “boat”:
when knitting on knitting needles, you need to sequentially close 3, 2, 1 loops on both sides of the neck (12 loops in total - 6 on each side), and then knit the remaining part of the shoulder up in a straight line;
When knitting on a machine, the method of shortened rows is used, and the number of loops is the same - 3,2,1.

Deep oval neckline

The depth of this neckline is also standard for all sizes and is 20 cm. The shoulder width is 10-12 cm, depending on the size.
The knitting principle is the same as in the previous case, i.e. The central part of the loops is closed and then 6 loops (3,2,1 loops) are sequentially closed on both sides. The only difference is the height of the cutout.

Sweetheart Neckline

I call this neckline shape a “sweetheart”, but this is an approximate name and you, of course, will not get an obvious heart shape. Yes, it is not necessary. And so beautiful and impressive. This is essentially a variation of the V-neck.
So, let's take a closer look.
Shoulder width – 10-12 cm, neckline depth – 20-22 cm.
Regardless of the number of neck loops and the depth of the neckline, the height of the “oblique” part should be approximately 1/3 of the total value. The main thing is that you feel comfortable closing the loops.
In our example, you need to bind off 20 loops, that is, bind off 2 loops 10 times in each even row (or every other row). Next, knit the shoulder in a straight line.
And at the end, “decorate the cake with a cherry.” Here are simple but effective crochet patterns for the neck of your adorable new blouse:


Creative success!

The shape of the neckline determines how the line of the chest, shoulders and neck will look. The boat neckline will visually widen the shoulders and emphasize the beautiful curve of the neck.

The boat neckline looks like a straight line.

Most often, the neckline is knitted together with the main parts of the back and front - this is a one-piece knitted collar.

We model the line of the back neckline called the “boat”.

You can use any pattern as a basis.

Let’s take for example the base pattern from the article Methods for constructing patterns from different authors.
Or How I make patterns.

And draw a straight line from the shoulder.

But it should be remembered that this is a basic pattern and the neckline is designed so that it runs strictly along the base of the neck.

If we draw the line of the neckline clearly along the highest points of the shoulder, then the collar will seem to climb onto the neck. Therefore, you need to lower the neck line by 3 cm.

You can adjust the depth of the boat neckline yourself, based on your needs.
Given as an example, 3 cm, which we set aside from the edge of the shoulder, is not a constant value, you can change it at your discretion.

For example, 5 cm. Let's mark it on the pattern.

The width of the strip can also be different.
The strap is usually knitted with an elastic band, but it is not necessary that it can be knitted with any other pattern that holds the edge - does not curl.

The bar can be knitted separately, then before knitting it only reaches the edge of the bar.
The strap is knitted separately and sewn to the main product.
But it’s better to knit together with the shelf.

The same steps need to be done with the back pattern.

You don’t have to knit the shoulder bevels, then finishing the knitting is just a matter of closing off all the loops in a straight line.

What could be simpler?

Now let's talk about secrets. There is also one little secret here.

As a result of all the transformations with the pattern, it turns out that the back and front in the neck area are equal in length.

Very often this looks acceptable, and this is exactly how almost all magazines suggest knitting. For beginners, I advise you not to bother and knit this way.

But if you are not satisfied with the result and you have enough experience, then you can use a trick. Make the straight line of the front boat neckline concave a little - 2 cm.

And leave a straight line on the back.

Now there are several models and ideas where and how this cutout can be used.

For example, here is a model

There is still the same “boat”, but the neck line is lowered quite low.
The line also includes part of the sleeve neckline.

The question arises immediately - How can you determine how many cm to remove from a sleeve?
You need to measure how many cm from the bottom point of the shoulder!

Or you can tie the bar in a straight line, and you’ll get a model like this.

Plank with an inflection.

Knitting a neckline is one of the most important points in the process of creating any sweater, cardigan or dress. A sloppily made, unevenly sewn or stretched neckline will ruin even a beautiful and original product. How to make it frame it, emphasizing only its advantages? We'll talk about this in today's master class! Our advice and step by step instructions will help you quickly and easily learn how to knit and process different kinds neck, and the finished item will always look stylish and neat.

Option one: smooth edge

This type of knitting of the neckline is universal: it is suitable both for products for children and for framing “adult” clothes.

To create it, you should knit all the cast-on loops in seven rows of k. P..

Turn the knitting inside out and carefully, not tightly, using an overlock stitch, sew the edge to the finished product.

From the wrong side of the binding it will look like this:

From the front side, the processing looks perfectly smooth.

Option two: decorative small zigzags

Another simple decorative neckband that even novice craftswomen can do.
To begin with, we make seven rows of l. P..

We do the eighth row as follows: 2 l. p.vm. l..

Then we make a yarn over, and again 2 liters. p.vm., yarn over again, and so on until the end of this row.

Having reached the purl row, all stitches of the previous row should be knitted only purl.

Now we will need another joint. as an auxiliary stitch, we cast on loops from the cast-on row.

Now the binding is bent in half lengthwise along the pattern line. After this, right sp. grab the item from the far back..

We put it on the back, which is in front.

We knit from the front sp. 2 p.vm. front (crossed and own). This will give us a row of small cloves.

This is how the processing should look from the inside out:

Front side of the neck:

Neck tying: video master class

Option three: tying the neckline with knitting needles using binding

This processing is the most popular and ultimately gives a one-piece neck, so the binding is done with circular knitting needles.

On the side, along the neckline, we collect stitches from the row located under the edge stitch.

At the end, we pull them out with knitting needles from each subsequent stitch, but one row lower - this way we smooth out the neckline.

Having reached the horizontal part, we pull out the loops from the edge loops with knitting needles. It is important to remember that, in order to avoid deformation of the cutout, you should skip every 5th loop.

Having finished casting on stitches along the entire length, we begin knitting in any usual way. You can, for example, do this with a 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 elastic band.

Option four: separate binding (first method)

This treatment is also universal for tying the necks of products for adults and children.
Using regular knitting needles, we cast on the number of stitches we need, then “elastic band” for seven rows.

Now we compare two loops - from the binding and from the neckline, and connect them using a free kettel stitch.

We start it from the wrong side, inserting the needle and thread immediately into the second loop, then bring the needle out from top to bottom onto reverse side through the first loop. Next, at the bottom we bring the needle into the third stitch, and from the front side to the back side into the second and then by analogy, thus connecting the frame and the cutout on both sides.

If we do everything correctly, the processing will look like this:

Neck with kettel stitch: video master class

Option five: separate binding (second method)

Another way to tie the neck separately.

Using knitting needles, cast on the required number of stitches, then use a 2 x 2 elastic band.

Having made 7 rows in this way, we perform double knitting. We remove the first edge with knitting needles without knitting, yarn over, l. p. and so on until the end of the row.

In the next row, remove the purl stitches without knitting, always keeping the thread in front.

Having reached the yarn overs of the previous row, we knit them with facial loops.

Turn the knitting over.

We continue further: reaching the yarn overs, knitting. from l. p., remove all other p. without knitting, always keep the thread in front. Having knitted three more rows, we divide the knitting in half into 2 separate sp. Close the loops on one of the joints. in the manner described above.

We smooth out this part well and the second one, which remains with open stitches for now. We apply the parts one to the other and sew them together with a quilt stitch.

We sew the part with open loops on the wrong side using an overlock stitch.

As a result, we will end up with processing like this:

Option six: double binding

We monitor the smoothness of the lines.

After processing the part and making the seams, we cast on circular sp. loops along the edge: divide the edge into sections of 10 cm each, cast on sts at the rate of “number of sts + 3-4 sts.” Now we alternate 2 liters. p. and 2 i. p. (“elastic band” 2 x 2) or 1 l. p. and 1 and. p. (“elastic band” 1 x 1), the number of p. is a multiple of four or, respectively, two.

Having knitted the frame, we loosely close all the stitches, cut the thread, leaving a long tail. We fold the knitting in half, turn it inward and pin it with pins, sew the closed edge to the neckline.

Option seven: V-neck (first method)

We start by casting on sts, as shown in the photo below.

After casting on the loops, you can start knitting 1x1 elastic.

The height should be selected depending on the type of product.
Upon completion of work, all items should be closed like l. p.. At the cape we sew the edges together using thread and a needle.

Option eight: V-neck (second method)

We carry out a set of loops in the usual way starting from the shoulder side.

We knit one row of l in the circle. p., mark the corner p.. Then we continue, alternating l. p. and i. p., there should be faces on the corners. p., if necessary, here you can add or subtract additional p..
In all rows of elastic, we remove the corner and previous stitches together, as with knit stitches. knitting, and knit the next stitch and pull the removed stitches through it..

We make the binding of the width we need and close the loops. We perform angular decreases as when fastening the loops.

Variation tenth: with binding and Italian edge

We start like double binding, but for the elastic band we knit 1 x 1, alternating l. p. and i. P..

In the last 4 pp. take sp. half a size smaller and continue. knit the neckline.
In the first of the last 4 pp. every l. We remove the item, as with facial expressions. elm., and pull the thread past the point..
I. p. as i. P..

In the words r., each and. n. we remove it, as with the inside out. elm., and stretch the thread in front of the stitch..
L. p. like l. P..

Once again repeat. these two r. and fasten the last point. R..

Variation eleven: “boat” treatment with elastic band

We process the neck with an elastic band. A basic diagram of the back is made, on which we draw another line and a finishing strip, 6 cm wide. The diagram of the front is similar.

We knit the front and back “squares” to the finishing strip, then knit 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 elastic for 3 cm, changing the sp number. through each 2-3 r. from larger to smaller, now we change sp. from smaller number to larger number at the same intervals. We complete the plank several times. R. auxiliary n. and, without closing the last paragraph. p., remove the knitting from the back..

We do the same with the front part, then we sew them along the shoulders, fold the strip in half, baste it, then the “boat” is sewn with a quilt stitch to the wrong side of the product.

Variation twelfth: “boat” in stocking stitch

A diagram of the product is made, on which we draw a new cutout line and a 2.5 cm strip.
Upon completion of the main work, knit. 2.5 cm stocking stitch, then several. R. auxiliary thread, do not close the st, remove the work from the sp. and make the front part. The basted boat is sewn with a kettel stitch, without passing the needle to the faces. side of the product - grab only half the thickness of the thread.

Closing neck loops: video master class

We will be glad if today's lesson helps you in your work. Even loops!