Chemical peeling are considered the most popular and well-known remedy for rejuvenating and renewing facial skin. With the help of a chemical peeling procedure, the upper layers of the epidermis are perfectly removed and regeneration processes are stimulated, which leads to an improvement in the aesthetic condition of the skin.
Deep peeling provides an excellent rejuvenation effect without surgical intervention.
Chemical peeling is a radical procedure, so it is performed only in the presence of deep scars and wrinkles. This peeling should be done in an office with medical equipment.

Types of chemical peeling

There are three types of chemical peeling: superficial, medium and deep. Superficial peeling is applied to combat age spots.
Medium chemical peeling penetrates the entire depth of the epidermis. As a result of this effect, the basement membrane remains intact. The medium peeling procedure is used to correct deep skin defects: all kinds of scars, unpleasant wrinkles or the presence of stretch marks.
Deep chemical peeling is comparable to major plastic surgery. The skin is exposed to its entire depth, and the basement membrane is deformed. But as a result of regeneration, the epidermis is restored.
When choosing a peeling, consult a qualified specialist for advice, as you should not make a decision on your own.
Chemical peeling Available: yellow, glycolic, peeling trichloroacetic acid, enzyme and phenolic.

Chemical peeling technology

Indications: acne, problem skin, actinic dermatitis, prevention of skin aging, hyperpigmentation, prevention and correction cosmetic defects skin ( folds, wrinkles, aging skin).
The chemical peeling procedure stimulates regeneration processes and promotes exfoliation upper layers epidermis, which leads to an improvement in the aesthetic condition of the skin as a whole.

Chemical peel video

Description of the chemical peeling procedure

1. The cosmetologist takes a regular cotton applicator and wets it chemical solution, then squeezes thoroughly. This is very important to ensure that the solution does not get into your eyes.
2. Then rub the solution with a cotton applicator - from 30 minutes to an hour. The duration of the procedure will depend on changes in skin color. He will begin to treat the skin from the frontal part. Then - the nose, cheeks and chin. Rub the solution into wrinkles especially carefully.
The patient will feel a slight burning sensation. After treatment with the solution for an hour, severe swelling forms on the skin. For the first two days he will not be able to open his eyes.
3. The cosmetologist applies four layers of adhesive plaster to the face along certain lines: two layers of cotton and two layers of silk. This must be done to maintain a certain concentration of the solution for a longer period. Thus, The procedure will take from an hour to 2 hours. The mask cannot be removed for two days. On the second day, the mask will come off almost on its own.
4. On the day the mask is removed, the skin is treated with thymol iodide, which promotes skin regeneration. The duration of the procedure will be from an hour to 2 hours. You will have to wear the mask for seven days. After a week, the swelling will decrease and a dense crust will form on the face.
5. The cosmetologist will cover the face with a thick layer of cotton wool for a day. The procedure lasts from 20 to 30 minutes. After a day, the cotton wool is removed. Now the patient can independently care for his face using cosmetics recommended by a cosmetologist.

“Effect” time and procedure frequency

Necessary go through 4 to 6 sessions with an interval of two weeks. The final result becomes noticeable for 8-10 days. "Effect" time from six months to a year. Then the chemical peeling procedure can be repeated.

Tools and equipment which a professional cosmetologist uses:

• skimmer
• combination spoon
• uno spear
• a spear
• slotted spoon
• microhook
• Vidal needle
• Magnifier Lamp
• Vapazon (steaming the skin surface before cosmetic procedures)

Aids: disposable napkins and sticks, cotton applicator.

After this procedure, use home remedies for post-peeling rehabilitation with a softening, moisturizing and regeneration-stimulating effect. Drugs that contain glycolic acid should be excluded.
On sunny days, use products with a UV filter with a protection level of at least 30.
You cannot remove the crusts yourself! This can lead to the formation of scars and scars!

Chemical peeling of the face prices

Note: The information is not official or promotional. Beauty salon prices may not be current at the time of viewing. The data was obtained by randomly analyzing the price lists of ten beauty salons in Moscow to provide general information on how much the service costs.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Why is autumn considered the optimal season for chemical peeling?
This is because in the autumn the sun loses its activity, and direct sunlight does not affect the skin with ultraviolet rays. The chemical peeling process has a destructive effect on it. The skin needs time to recover, and direct exposure to sunlight will only interfere with the regeneration process.

What side effects can there be after a chemical peel procedure?

• swelling
• blistering
• itchy skin

Many celebrities undergo this peeling procedure. For example, a famous actress uses mild chemical peeling with glycolic acid Julia Roberts.
A Carmen Electra During her career, she experimented more than once not only with her image, changing hair color, hairstyles and clothing styles, but also with her appearance. The star actively uses cosmetological techniques to maintain her beauty. In particular, she does Botox injections, various facial massages and chemical peels.

Contraindications for the procedure

Chemical peeling is contraindicated: for any neoplasms, “warts”, hypersensitivity of the skin, during solar activity, a tendency to form keloid scars, visible skin damage, allergies to drugs, during exacerbation of acne.

Result after chemical peeling procedure

From the second week, the skin will take on a renewed appearance. Chemical peeling tones and regenerates the skin, giving it a velvety feel. With the help of peeling, wrinkles, deep dark spots, the skin texture is evened out.

Chemical peeling at home

Chemical peeling at home should be done with extreme caution. Make the choice of a suitable acid together with a cosmetologist, or use superficial peeling by purchasing professional product with glycolic acid. After all, this acid activates the work hyaluronic acid, making the skin elastic and helping to get rid of “blackheads” (comedones). And keep in mind that after such a procedure you cannot go outside without sunscreen, even in cloudy weather!

Chemical peeling of the face: effective or not, is it worth doing?

Can't decide on a chemical facial peel? Have you heard a lot of both good and bad reviews about this procedure? Don’t know the difference between superficial chemical peeling and medium and deep peeling? Who is this procedure indicated and contraindicated for? What side effects are possible after using this technique? We will answer all these and other frequently asked questions by readers.

What information will you find out:

What is chemical peeling and its types

The effect of chemical peeling lasts quite a long time – for 6 – 12 months.

In the fight against complex defects of the skin surface, a chemical peeling procedure is recommended - removing the dead layer of cells that prevents its renewal, deep regeneration and restoration. It is carried out using specially selected concentrations and solutions of acids that can penetrate different layers of the skin.

After this procedure, the skin is renewed, rejuvenated, the synthesis of collagen and elastin is accelerated, and its elasticity increases.

There are superficial, medium and deep facial peels depending on the degree of penetration of the selected drugs under the skin.

The effect of such peeling lasts quite a long time - for 6 - 12 months, which contributes to the constant increase in its popularity among middle-aged women.

• Superficial peeling is called peeling, which removes the stratum corneum from the upper layers of the epidermis. The result will be an even complexion, reduced pores, smoothed out fine wrinkles and removed acne. This type of peeling includes almond, salicylic, pyruvic, milk.

• Peeling is considered to be medium, performed using acids that penetrate the entire depth of the epidermis, that is, to the basal layer. This includes TCA, retinoic, phenolic. It helps get rid of more complex skin problems in the form of deep wrinkles, scars, hyperpigmentation, old red spots.

• Deep peeling penetrates into the deep layers of the dermis, allowing you to effectively get rid of old scars, scars, and noticeable wrinkles. It is performed using high concentrations of phenolic or trichloroacetic acid in a hospital setting with the mandatory use of anesthesia.

How the procedure is performed

After applying the appropriate acid, leave it on the skin surface for 2 to 10 minutes.

The chemical facial peeling method consists of 5 main stages and lasts on average about an hour.

Before the session begins, the cosmetologist is obliged to test the skin for sensitivity to the selected acids in order to exclude the occurrence of an allergic reaction!

1. They begin by cleansing the facial skin with specially selected hypoallergenic and antibacterial products in accordance with its type and condition.
2. Next, a selected chemical preparation with a certain concentration of acid, depending on the existing defect, is applied to extremely dry skin.
3. After applying the appropriate acid, it is kept on the surface of the skin for 2 to 10 minutes. In this case, the patient feels a burning sensation and a slight tingling sensation, which stops when the acid is neutralized with a buffer (alkaline) solution, restoring the normal pH level of the skin surface.
4. This is followed by appropriate post-peeling care in the form of applying serums, soothing masks, creams that restore the integrity of the skin, increase its protective properties and normalize the acid balance.
5. A light massage by a specialist cosmetologist followed by cleansing the skin and applying sunscreen is the final stage of the procedure.

If you decide to undergo chemical peeling, it is important to know for which skin defects it is really effective. The procedure will help get rid of:

• extensive pigment spots;
• acne;
• uneven skin surface after acne;
• old scars, scars;
• noticeable wrinkles;
• consequences of photoaging;
• decreased tone with loss of elasticity.

When is chemical peeling contraindicated?

Carefully study the following list of contraindications to the use of the procedure, which does not recommend its implementation when:

• pregnancy and breastfeeding;
• any skin lesions (inflammatory, infectious and chronic);
• hypersensitivity and allergic reaction to drug components;
• oncological processes in the body and protruding neoplasms (moles, warts, papillomas) on the skin of the face;
• epilepsy;
• keloid scars;
• chronic;
• rosacea (visible and dilated blood vessels on the face);
• exposure to laser, phototherapy, and other types of peeling in less than six months.

Recommended age and period of year for the procedure

Professional cosmetologists advise using this technique during periods of the year with the least solar activity.

For the successful and most effective use of this technique, both the patient’s age and the climatic period should be taken into account. Women over 30 years old who have visible age-related changes in the skin with decreased tone, loss of elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles can be recommended to undergo this rejuvenation procedure.

Professional cosmetologists advise using this technique during periods of the year with the least solar activity, that is, from the end of September to the end of April. In other months (from May to September), chemical peeling is strictly prohibited, as it can cause increased hyperpigmentation and deep skin burns.

Possible side effects

With superficial peeling, there are practically no side effects. In some cases, redness of the skin is possible, which disappears within 3 hours after the end of the procedure.

When the middle layers are affected, redness and peeling of the skin may appear, usually disappearing within 4 to 5 days after the procedure.

Deep peeling is characterized by persistent redness, the formation of crusts on the surface of the skin, as well as a long recovery period - about 2 - 3 weeks.

The number of procedures and the period of their implementation are determined individually for each patient.

What complications can there be?

Medium and deep chemical peels can cause the following: serious complications, if they are carried out by an unqualified, inexperienced specialist without proper preliminary preparation of the skin and proper care after its implementation:

• chemical burns of the face caused by incorrect selection of the drug, its concentration and time spent on the skin;

• folliculitis and, provoked by the selection of low-quality healing and restorative care products;

• bacterial and fungal infections that occur due to non-compliance with hygiene measures and lack of antibacterial treatment of the surfaces of the cosmetologist’s hands, as well as the patient’s skin;

• hypopigmentation associated with the loss of one’s own pigment that occurs when treating dark skin;

• demarcation lines showing the boundaries of treated and untreated skin;

• scars that appear as a result of constant itching and persistent redness of the skin surface;

• telangiectasia or the appearance of visible spider veins that become especially noticeable and clearly defined;

• recurrent herpes, which may appear in individuals prone to exacerbation of this viral infection due to the absence of antiviral and immunostimulating drugs.

Do not hesitate to ask the cosmetologist who will perform chemical peeling to show you for review all documents about education, work experience, certificates received and permits to engage in this activity in order to protect yourself as much as possible from negative consequences caused by incompetence and professional illiteracy.

What not to do after the procedure

During the recovery and rehabilitation period, you should not forget about the cosmetologist’s recommendations and strictly adhere to the rules prohibiting:

• be under direct ultraviolet rays;
• visit baths, saunas, swimming pools, solariums;
• touch the skin and remove the crusts that form on your own;
• use scrubs and;
• apply decorative cosmetics;
• use formulations containing alcohols;
• smoking and drinking alcohol;
• engage in active physical exercise.

Video: Chemical peeling of the face with Elena Malysheva

After undergoing a chemical peeling procedure, you will soon see in the mirror the young, radiant skin that you once admired in your youth!

Every woman wants her face to look perfect. Chemical is a remedy that will help where cream and mask fail. The purpose of the peeling procedure is to eliminate skin defects and rejuvenate by removing the upper layers of the epidermis. Professional peeling is carried out using various chemicals that cause burns and rejection of those layers that are planned to be removed.

The skin damaged in this way begins to actively regenerate. Fans of this procedure and cosmetologists claim that after some time the skin will be as soft as a baby’s. But this procedure has both its advantages and disadvantages. How often to do chemical peeling and is it possible to do it at all? Which drug should I choose? Experts have not yet found a consensus. What kind of facial procedure this is is described in more detail.

What are the types of professional chemical peeling for the face?

There are 3 types of chemical peels:

1. Surface. involves affecting only the outer layer of the epidermis (keratinized). At the same time, the outer layer of the skin is renewed, the ducts of the sebaceous glands are cleaned, their secretion is regulated, excess keratinized particles are removed, and the penetration of biologically active substances is improved. The skin becomes smoother, more even, its color is evened out (it becomes light and uniform).
2. The median affects the entire epidermis, reaching the basement membrane on which the cells lie. In this case, the activation of connective tissue cells occurs, which lie in the middle layer of the skin and are responsible for the structure of the collagen framework, reducing the number of melanocytes (pigment cells), and increasing vascular tone. You can find out by following the link.
3. Deep– impact on the entire thickness of the skin (epidermis and dermis). This method is the most radical and painful, so it is done only according to doctor’s indications and under anesthesia. This leads to a complete renewal of the collagen-elastin network and helps get rid of deep scars. At the same time, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid is activated, which maintains skin tone, and its cellular composition is completely renewed. The dermis recovers from 6 months to a year and requires more careful care.

Who can have the procedure

Superficial chemical peeling of the skin is the most gentle; it can be performed on adolescents with excessively oily dermis and people with hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands. It is used in the fight against acne and acne if alternative methods for problem skin have proven ineffective (cream, cleansing, etc.). At the age of 25 to 35 years, it can be used for a slight rejuvenation effect.

At a young age, medium peeling is not recommended, and there is no need. But unscrupulous cosmetologists can offer such a procedure, you need to be careful. It is necessary for age-related decreases in the synthesis of structural components of the skin (collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid). In this case, medium peeling will help activate the cells that lie in the dermis (fibroblasts).

Video of chemical peeling at home:

It is better not to do deep peeling until you are 55 years old. There is simply no point in injuring your skin before. You need to be prepared for a long recovery period, protect your skin from the sun and cosmetics for at least six months.

What chemical peeling is is best not known to children under 16 and people with dry skin. In this case, procedures aimed at moisturizing the skin are more suitable.

Are there any contraindications?

There are many more prohibitions on peeling than indications. You should definitely consult with a dermatologist and cosmetologist before deciding to undergo this procedure. If you have at least one contraindication, the consequences can be very serious.

The first danger is the sun. Depending on the type of peeling, it is necessary to protect the skin from direct sunlight for 2 weeks to a year and use a cream with ultraviolet protection. If you do not follow these recommendations, you can get pigment spots on your face, which will require new skin peeling to even them out.

The risk of bacterial, fungal or viral infection increases sharply. In the thickness of the skin weakened by peeling, there are much fewer immunologically active cells that protect against the spread of infections, such as the human papillomavirus.

If personal hygiene rules are not observed or if this virus is present (warts, papillomas on other parts of the body), it can spread with lightning speed to the areas where peeling is applied.

If a person has a problem with a tendency to allergic reactions, then he should be prepared for excessive swelling and redness for some time after the procedure. Anti-allergenic drugs and cream will help improve the condition.

It is better to avoid chemical peels during pregnancy or lactation. Epidermis of a pregnant woman due to changes hormonal levels prone to hyperpigmentation. Therefore, the result may be different from what was expected. In addition, the components of peeling mixtures are toxic and can be absorbed into the blood, which can be dangerous for a child.

The following diseases are considered contraindications to peeling:

Surface fruits are discussed.

Video of chemical peeling for the face:

How to prepare for the procedure?

Before exposing the skin to aggressive acids, it is necessary to prepare it for this. The better the pre-peel care, the less likely you are to get unpleasant side effects. Mechanical cleaning is recommended 2 weeks before the procedure; the use of cleansers is only permissible if they contain weak acids.

Most often it is salicylic or ascorbic acid. Already at this stage it is worth starting to protect your skin from direct sunlight. Be sure to take a break from visiting the solarium or the beach.

If a deep peeling procedure is planned, then a superficial chemical peel of the face is performed 1-2 weeks earlier for preparation.

What could be the consequences?

You need to be prepared for the fact that your face will look far from ideal immediately after the procedure. The recovery period begins, during which the following may occur:

1. Redness, swelling. The skin reaction is similar to an allergy. Antihistamines (decongestants) may help at this stage.
2. Peeling of the skin. It can have a different character: from almost imperceptible to the slipping of fibrin films from the skin, which can change color. This peeling is the purpose of peeling. Thus, the epidermis is renewed and gets rid of old cells.
3. Tightness, dry skin. Due to the drying effect. A cream will help combat this; it must be prescribed during the recovery period.

What unexpected side effects might there be?

In addition to the consequences that will definitely occur, you may encounter much more unpleasant effects. The most common of them is the lack of the desired result. This procedure does not solve all skin problems in one fell swoop; moreover, there are a lot of details that need to be followed (pre-peel, post-peel care) to get a decent result.

But no result is better than serious skin damage caused by an uncontrolled burn. Such a burn develops as a result of improper peeling technique (neglecting the required acid concentration, time frame, etc.). This can also happen if the skin is overly sensitive to acid.

The most common complication is hyperpigmentation. The face after chemical peeling should be protected from the sun. Most often, the responsibility for the appearance of excessive pigmentation falls on the patient, since the presence of pigment increases in direct proportion to the amount of ultraviolet radiation reaching the skin. You shouldn’t go on vacation after peeling. warm countries. In temperate climates, it is better to carry out peeling in the autumn-winter period.

Video on how often to do chemical facial peeling:

After peeling, a small rash or even large pimples may appear, especially in the first week after the procedure. They may come off on their own, or they may require cosmetic cleaning. The reason for their appearance is non-compliance with personal hygiene rules. During the post-peeling period, you need to be especially careful about the cleanliness of items that come into contact with the skin (bed linen, clothing, telephone, etc.). You should stop using decorative cosmetics for a while - they clog your pores.

As a result of exfoliation, crusts are formed that cannot be peeled off. You have to wait until they reject themselves. If you neglect this, scars will appear. Scarring may be associated with errors by the cosmetologist (high concentration of the drug or failure to comply with the application time) or with the client having impaired skin regeneration.

As a result of medium or deep peeling, an effect can be observed when a clear line is visible between the areas of the skin where the procedure was performed and those where it was not. This completely depends on the experience and skill of the cosmetologist. So you need to choose a professional with recommendations, apply best mixtures. A good doctor will advise you and help you choose the right procedure.

How to care for your skin during the recovery period?

The same skin care measures are used for all types of peeling. The main point is sun protection. It is recommended to use a cream with a high level of protection against ultraviolet rays, limited time spent in the sun. A dermatologist or cosmetologist gives recommendations on the use of a cream that accelerates skin regeneration, relieves inflammation, redness, and pain.

2-3 days after the procedure, you can wash your face with water or a product with a neutral acid-base balance. While peeling is observed, it is better to use serums on water based instead of thick oily face creams. When the peeling stops, you can use your favorite cream again.

It's better to refuse:

• tanning on the beach, in the solarium;
• visits to the sauna, bathhouse, steam room;
• going to the pool;
• other cosmetic procedures;
• decorative cosmetics.

More information about facial care after the procedure can be found in.

When can I do it again?

How often you can peel, your doctor can tell you individually. Chemical facial peeling (superficial) can only be done once every 2 weeks. The doctor may prescribe a course of 5-7 procedures to achieve the desired effect.

For medium and deep peels this time is much longer. It depends on the products used, which are indicated by the manufacturers. Usually this is at least 2 times longer than the duration of the recovery period.

Is it possible to carry out the procedure yourself?

Chemical peeling of the face can only be performed by a cosmetologist under sterile conditions! But you can do chemical body peeling at home. It is characterized by the absence of severe inflammation and redness and less danger to the skin, since on the body it is much thicker and stronger than on the face, and has denser layers.

The procedure is carried out at home using products purchased or prepared independently. The composition should contain fruit acids, which are characterized by a mild effect on the stratum corneum and antiseptic properties. They moisturize the skin and rejuvenate it. Such mixtures are sold in pharmacies or specialized cosmetic stores.

Recipe for a mixture for body peeling at home: mix high-fat kefir with crushed pieces of citrus fruits (lemons, oranges).

This mixture must be applied to the body with light massage movements, held for 10-15 minutes and rinsed with warm water.

Lactic acid in combination with fruit acids will give an excellent effect of exfoliating, whitening and moisturizing the skin.

Whatever type of peeling is chosen, the most important thing is to consult a doctor and think over all the pros and cons of such a decision. After all, the consequences are sometimes much more expensive and require much more time and effort. Beauty requires sacrifice, but this sacrifice should not be health.

More information about the means for the procedure can be found.

Find

Chemical peeling for face The word “peeling” comes from the English “to peel” - “to cleanse”, “to remove the skin”. This is really for the purpose of improving it appearance and general condition. A special place among various peelings is occupied by chemical facial peeling

. With this peeling, it is not mechanical exfoliation that does not exclude a violation of the integrity of the skin, but the dissolution of dead cells of the surface layer of the skin upon contact with the peeling components. As a rule, the active components of chemical peeling are organic acids.

Types of chemical peels by depth of effect Superficial peeling

has an effect within several layers of keratinized cells of the epidermis. It is the most gentle type of chemical peeling. After it, you can continue your normal lifestyle. Mainly recommended for young problem skin. The effect does not last long; repeated courses are required. affects the entire stratum corneum of the epidermis to the basement membrane. After this peeling, home treatment is required for a week, as the face remains hyperemic and fine- or large-plate peeling occurs. It is carried out to solve specific problems, as well as to combat age-related changes in the skin. The effect lasts a long time, repeat courses only after a year.

Deep chemical peeling– rejection of the epidermis affecting the basement membrane. The procedure is quite responsible and carried out under anesthesia, since it is nothing more than a chemical burn of the facial skin followed by regeneration of the epidermis. It is performed in a hospital and is aimed at removing deep wrinkles and scars. The effect lasts for a very long time, up to several years, but can be done only once; the rehabilitation period lasts about 5 months.

Main objectives of chemical peeling

1. Exfoliation (peeling) of keratinized cells of the epidermis leading to proliferation (reproduction) of cells of the basal layer, that is, to the renewal of the entire skin.

2. Elimination of skin imperfections and problems as a result of exfoliation and thanks to the specific properties of acids.

3. Mobilization of the protective and regenerative functions of the skin due to the stress action of acids.

Skin before and after chemical peeling

Why do you need a chemical peel?

Chemical peeling is often the procedure of choice when correcting cosmetic defects of the skin of the face and other parts of the body. As a result, patients receive:

Improving the appearance of the skin - it becomes smoother, softer, and has an even color

Disappearance of pigment spots, acne effects, scars and stretch marks

Normalizes skin pH and sebaceous gland function

Rejuvenation of facial skin by smoothing wrinkles, increasing skin firmness and elasticity due to increased collagen synthesis

Good mood and increased self-esteem

Indications and contraindications

Indications for chemical peeling

Indications for chemical peeling

1. Problem skin(post-acne, acne, comedones)
2. Presence of hyperpigmentation
3. Skin with low tone, not elastic, flabby
4. Age-related skin changes
5. Photoaging (skin exposed to excessive UV radiation)
6. Presence of scars and ingrown hairs
7. Oily skin with enlarged pores
8. Thickening of the stratum corneum of the skin, causing it to become uneven
9. Dull skin tone
10. Preparatory stage before more serious and in-depth cosmetic procedures.

Indications for chemical peeling by age

1. Adolescent age from 14 years as prescribed by a doctor according to indications.

2. 25-30 years for acne, post-acne, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, to prevent skin aging.

3. 35 and older age groups for the purpose of prevention and treatment of cosmetic skin defects and as preparation for other cosmetic operations.

Contraindications for chemical peeling

Absolute contraindications for chemical peeling:

1. Any chronic diseases in the acute stage
2. Colds
3. Pregnancy and lactation
4. Tendency to form hypertrophic and keloid scars
5. The need for radiotherapy
6. Fresh tan
7. Recently (less than 8 weeks ago) traumatic procedures performed (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, laser resurfacing)
8. Mental illness
9. Individual intolerance to certain peeling ingredients
10. Taking immunosuppressants, retinoids, medicines having a photosensitizing effect
11. Severe rosacea
12. Oncological diseases
13. IV–VI skin phototypes determined according to Fitzpatrick
14. Skin diseases (eczema, allergic dermatoses, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, etc.) in the acute stage
15. Infectious skin diseases (viral, bacterial, fungal)
16. Violation of the integrity of the skin, injuries in the area of ​​peeling
17. Poor wound healing
18. Diabetes mellitus and hypertension

Relative contraindications for chemical peeling:

1. Multiple nevi
2. Hypertrichosis
3. Increased sensitivity skin
4. The patient is under 18 years of age
5. Menstruation

Mechanism of action of acid peeling

1. Damage to the epidermis (chemical burn).

2. In response, skin cells begin to intensively produce inflammatory mediators, signaling molecules, and enzyme growth factors.

3. The mitotic activity of basal cells increases (cells are actively renewed).

4. New vessels are formed and the production of fibroblasts is activated, leading to the synthesis of new collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans and enzymes.

5. The dermis is compacted and thickened and all layers of the skin are moisturized.

The structure of the skin

Knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of the skin is necessary to understand the mechanism of action of certain cosmetic procedures.

Leather- This is not just a shell covering the human body. This is a full-fledged organ that performs a number of specific functions and has a complex structure. The mass of the entire skin is approximately 5% of body mass. There are approximately 5 million hairs on the surface of human skin. For every square centimeter of human skin there are on average 100 pores and 200 receptors.

Complete renewal of young skin occurs in 28 days; with age, this process slows down every year, and the stratum corneum will thicken and become uneven. And also the thickness of the stratum corneum can thicken under the influence of ultraviolet rays.

Human skin has a constant pH of 3.5-5.6, if it shifts too much, skin problems such as rashes or irritations may occur. pH up to 3.5 (acidic environment) is typical for dry skin, pH greater than 5.6 (slightly acidic environment) - for oily skin. And also maybe mixed skin when the skin type is different in individual areas. And therefore, in order to choose the right cosmetical tools, you need to know your skin type.

The structure of the skin is divided into three main layers - the epidermis (the surface layer of the skin), the dermis, or the skin itself, and the subcutaneous fatty tissue (hypodermis). Each of these three layers has its own layers, appendages and elements.

The most significant layer of skin in cosmetology is the epidermis. Its structure is multilayered. The epidermis produces the pigment melanin, the amount of which determines the color of the skin and its intensity.

Fat-soluble substances, unlike aqueous solutions, penetrate well into the epidermis, since cell membranes contain a large number of fats and these substances seem to “dissolve” in cell membranes. There are no blood vessels in the epidermis; its nutrition occurs due to the diffusion of tissue fluid from the underlying layer of the dermis.

The basis of the epidermis is the basement membrane, the germinal layer of intensively multiplying cells that replace those that die and slough off every day.

Above the basal layer is the spinous layer, the cells of which have spine-shaped processes. It is here, in the intercellular space, that lymph circulates, providing nutrition and metabolism in the cells of the epidermis.

Above the stratum spinosum, the granular, shiny and horny (uppermost) layers of the epidermis are successively located.

Epidermal cells

1. Keratinocytes- these are the cells of the spinous, basal and granular layers; they are in constant motion. They are formed due to the division of germ cells of the basement membrane located at the border of the epidermis and dermis. They mature and move from the lower layers to the upper ones (from the spinous layer to the granular layer), during which time keratin (a very strong protein) accumulates in keratinocytes.

2. Corneocytes are formed at the end of the life course of keratinocytes and are a cell without a nucleus and main organelles, something like a “bag” filled with keratin. Corneocytes are dead cells that form the stratum corneum and are flat scales. They perform the barrier function of the epidermis.

Corneocytes move further upward, and when they reach the surface of the skin, they peel off and new ones take their place. Corneocyte renewal occurs on average within three weeks.

Corneocytes are held together by a special substance, which consists of a double layer of special lipids - ceramides (ceramides). Ceramides (ceramides) molecules have hydrophilic “heads” (water-loving fragments) and lipophilic “tails” (fat-loving fragments).

3. Melanocytes- these are cells that are located on the basement membrane among the germinal layer of the epithelium; these cells produce melanin. This pigment performs a protective function and protects a person from infrared radiation and partially ultraviolet radiation. Also, the color of the skin depends on the saturation of melanin. In some cases, the formation of age spots depends on the condition of the basement membrane.

4. Langerhans cells, which perform a protective function against foreign bodies and microbes.

5. Merkel cells- These are tactile cells that are found in the basal layer of the epidermis. They effect skin sensitivity. Most of them are in the skin of the fingertips, on the tip of the nose and erogenous zones.

Beneath the basement membrane is the skin itself, or dermis. It contains the papillary and reticular layers. The papillary layer borders the epidermis. The papillary pattern on the palms and feet is nothing more than papillae of the dermis visible through the epidermis. Below is the reticular layer, which contains sebaceous and sweat glands, hair follicles, nerve endings (skin receptors), as well as collagen and elastic fibers.

The elasticity and strength of the skin directly depend on the presence of elastic fibers and the amount of collagen in the dermis.

The subcutaneous fat layer is located under the reticular layer of the dermis and performs shock-absorbing and warming functions.

The mechanism of action of acids on the skin

Organic acids are used for chemical peels. For the superficial - fruit, for the middle - trichloroacetic (TCA), for deep - phenolic and trichloroacetic of higher concentration.

Acid, when exposed to the skin, depending on the concentration and exposure, dissolves the keratinized cells of the upper layers of the epidermis, and sometimes the entire epidermis, down to the basement membrane.

In other words, when applying the peeling mixture, we receive a controlled chemical burn to the skin of the face. Unlike a traumatic burn, here the depth of acid exposure is clearly controlled by a cosmetologist - this allows us to solve exactly those problems of the patient that brought him to the cosmetology clinic.

Fruit and some other acids have an exfoliating effect, which is achieved by weakening the adhesion (cohesion) of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. In response to increased peeling, active division of cells in the basal layer is triggered.

They also have a moisturizing effect on the skin as a result of accelerated renewal of the epidermis, since on the surface of keratinocytes there is a complex of hygroscopic molecules, or the natural moisturizing factor NMF. This factor is found in greater quantities in young cells.

Chemical acids have a stimulating effect on skin fibroblasts and thereby promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen.

The stress theory also explains the increased synthesis of the intercellular substance of the dermis. In response to stress, the skin's protective systems are activated. The skin is mobilized, the reparative activity of skin cells is enhanced, and the synthesis of vital molecules is accelerated.

The result will be a thinning of the epidermis and a thickening of the dermis layer. The surface skin becomes firmer and more elastic, and small wrinkles are smoothed out.
Acids normalize lipid balance, cleanse the ducts of the sebaceous glands, thereby reducing oily skin and preventing the appearance of comedones and acne.

By exfoliating dead epidermal cells, a whitening effect is achieved. Plus, some acids act on the production of melanin, and thereby also help lighten the skin.

Stages of chemical peeling

1. Pre-peeling preparation. Purpose: adaptation of the skin to acid and leveling of the top layer for better penetration of the peeling composition. It begins 1-2 weeks before the procedure. Use preparations containing low concentrations of acids.

2. Peeling. Goal: to obtain the desired result depending on the choice of active acid. Conducted according to protocol. The concentration, pH and exposure time are chosen by the cosmetologist.

3. Post-peeling care. Goal: to avoid complications and consolidate the peeling result. Means for home care A cosmetologist prescribes skin care, and you must follow all his instructions. And also be sure to use sunscreen with a protection factor of at least 30 SPF.

Properly carried out pre-peel preparation, professionally performed peeling, as well as properly selected post-peel care significantly reduce the risk of complications. All expected reactions and complications are well described in the article by O.V. Zabnenkova Candidate of Medical Sciences, senior researcher at the laboratory for the study of reparative processes of the skin at MMA named after. THEM. Sechenov.

Photos before and after chemical peeling

Phenol peeling

Jessner Peel

Fruit acids

Peeling using fruit acids is extremely popular due to its gentle effect and the almost complete absence of discomfort during and after the procedure.

Fruit acids are used for superficial peeling, and are so called because one of the main sources of these acids is fruit. True, they contain them in concentrations that are very different from peeling ones.

The most commonly used is glycolic (hydroxyacetic) acid. Its use helps to gently smooth the skin texture and normalize the production of melanin and keratin. After glycolic peeling, collagen synthesis increases, which gives the skin additional firmness and elasticity. Glycolic acid has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and stimulating effect, as a result of which the patient receives an excellent rejuvenating effect from the procedure. Of no small importance is the use of glycolic acid for the prevention and treatment of skin diseases such as molluscum contagiosum.

In addition to glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, and pyruvic acids are used for superficial chemical peeling. All of them exfoliate the stratum corneum of the epidermis well, but each of these acids has specific characteristics. For example, pyruvic acid is good for sensitive and weakened skin, increasing its density and elasticity, protecting against moisture loss and strengthening the skin barrier function.

Lactic acid, on the contrary, has a delicate softening effect, regulating hydrobalance and providing an anti-inflammatory effect. Peeling with lactic acid is especially valuable because it can be performed at any time of the year, without the fear of developing hyperpigmentation, as with other peels.

However, peeling with fruit acids is suitable only for young patients whose skin has a high regenerative potential. Problems of mature skin are solved by other types of chemical peeling.

Acids used for medium peeling

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA peel) and salicylic acid are used for medium or superficial-medial peeling. High concentrations of TCA - 40-35% - are already classified as deep effects; this is equivalent to surgical cosmetology and requires special conditions for implementation.

Medium peeling, and, accordingly, the acids used in it, are designed to solve age-related skin changes - such as stretch marks, post-acne scars, superficial hyperpigmentation, wrinkles around the eyes, forehead, upper and lower lips. The effectiveness of the procedure is comparable to laser skin resurfacing.

A distinctive feature of TCA peeling is the frost effect (“frost”)—the treated area of ​​the skin turns slightly white. This is a sign of protein denaturation and the formation of a barrier film that prevents further penetration of acid deep into the skin. The cosmetologist determines the exposure time depending on the skin type - on dry, thin and sensitive skin of the face frost appears literally in the first or second minute of peeling, on the skin of the body where postpartum stretch marks need to be removed - the exposure is approximately 10-15 minutes.

After TCA peeling, the skin especially needs care - moisturizing, protection from ultraviolet radiation, stimulation of regenerative processes in the skin. Peeling with trichloroacetic acid is done only in autumn-winter period When sun activity is minimal, the likelihood of stimulating pigment formation in renewed skin is very high.

Salicylic acid is used for medium peels due to its ability to cause deep and severe peeling. The acid content in the peeling composition can reach 30%. Typically this is a 20-25% solution of salicylic acid in isopropyl alcohol.

Action of acid -

Most aesthetic defects in women's appearance can be corrected by chemical peels for the face, the types of which have their own characteristics. Some acid exfoliation procedures are recommended to solve young skin problems, such as acne or acne; for others, young age is a contraindication. Some peelings with acid solutions help achieve noticeable but painful rejuvenation, others act gently, have a cumulative effect and require frequent repetition. We will talk further about the nuances of acid procedures, their benefits and frequency of use.

A collection of benefits of chemical peels

The mechanism of skin renewal using chemical exfoliation is the same for all types of such peeling. Its basis is the application of natural or synthesized acids in medical (weak) concentration to the skin. Acidic solutions cause artificial chemical burns thin skin persons I, rarely II degree.

Every type of chemical peeling, even light ones for decorative purposes, destroys the upper dead layer of the epithelium. Cosmetic compositions for anti-aging exfoliation penetrate even deeper - to the middle dermal layer, and peeling products for radical rejuvenation, whose effect is comparable to surgical lifting, work extremely deeply - at the border of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue. Skin damaged by acid solutions strives for rapid regeneration - peeling provokes a change in internal processes in the epidermis. The synthesis of protein threads of collagen and elastin is launched, oxygen and nutrition are supplied to the cells, blood flow accelerates, clogged pores are cleaned and become thinner.

Positive and quick effect chemical peelings are noticed by everyone who prefers them over mechanical or hardware exfoliation. In 2-3 acid rejuvenation procedures, signs of age disappear from the face (expression wrinkles and folds, rosacea, pigment spots), the consequences of dermatological diseases (inflammation, lumpy skin after acne or acne, redness after infection with the subcutaneous Demadecosis mite), traces of injuries (scars , scars, stretch marks). Physical peelings can also achieve the same aesthetic results. But it will be longer, more expensive and, in the case of some procedures, more painful.

All types of chemical peels create stressful conditions for skin renewal, but in the end their effect is positive and justified. A course of anti-aging procedures helps improve complexion and smooth the skin, get rid of defects and increase the elasticity of the epidermis.

Chemical peels, regardless of type, have several common indications:

• problematic skin with increased greasiness, comedones and inflammation;
• the appearance of pigment spots as a consequence of photoaging or age-related skin changes;
• facial and age wrinkles, tissue sagging, skin sagging, changes in facial contours;
• enlarged and clogged pores;
• lumpy skin after dermatological diseases;
• scars and scars after injuries or thermal burns;
• spider veins on the face (rosacea);
• preparation for other cosmetic procedures.

All types of chemical facial peeling have several general contraindications:

• exacerbation of the herpes virus and chronic diseases;
• insulin dependence;
• pregnancy and lactation period;
• wounds, abrasions, scratches and cracks in the skin on the face;
• taking hormonal medications;
• individual intolerance to peeling components;
• oncology;
• adolescence;
• recently completed a course of radiotherapy.

Choosing a particular type of chemical peel should not be an independent decision. The least that arrogance leads to is a violation of the protocol of the procedure and its ineffectiveness. Sometimes inappropriate peeling results in serious complications for the skin and long-term rehabilitation in a clinical setting.

Therefore, before deciding on a course of acid peelings, consult a cosmetologist.

Before a chemical exfoliation session, ask a specialist to perform an allergy test for the active components of the drug. To do this, apply a drop of the product to the inner bend of the elbow or the delicate skin behind the ear. If within 15 minutes allergic reaction does not appear – peeling is suitable.

The type of chemical facial peel depends on the depth of penetration of the acid into the skin. Soft and gentle peelings are classified as superficial, means of combating age-related changes and hyperpigmentation are classified as medium peels, and radical chemical liftings are classified as deep.

Easy peelings: we act on the surface

Superficial peels are popular and can be performed even at home. This gentle and safe exfoliation is recommended as a primary treatment for young, oily skin prone to acne, acne and ultraviolet pigmentation, as well as maintenance care for women over 35 years of age.

The active components of superficial peels penetrate no deeper than 0.06 mm of the epidermal layer, so their action is considered gentle and low-traumatic. This is enough to exfoliate keratinized fiber, smooth out light expression wrinkles and unevenness after acne, narrow and cleanse pores, and lighten pigmentation. Light peelings do not cause significant damage to the skin: the procedures are painless and do not require long rehabilitation - the skin heals within 5-7 days.

Superficial types of peelings do not require special preparation of the skin. To achieve a noticeable and lasting effect, cleansing should be carried out in courses of 6-8 sessions at intervals of a week. Superficial treatments can be repeated every 3 months from late October to early April.

Superficial chemical peels, the types of which are determined by the main acid in the cosmetic solution, quickly penetrate the skin and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin fibers. Compositions for light exfoliation may contain natural fruit acids, for example, malic, citric, tartaric, or other keratolytics - salicylic, glycolic, lactic, mandelic, pyruvic, retinoic, azelaic, phytic and other types of acids. These compounds are known as alpha hydroxyl acids or AHAs, and they gently break down dead skin and promote skin renewal.

The following are very popular among superficial peels:

• glycolic peeling. The exfoliation procedure with glycolic acid is valued by cosmetologists and their clients for its painlessness, effectiveness and minimal risk. side effects. The compound molecule is so small that it can penetrate the skin in seconds, causing the synthesis of protein threads and strengthening of intercellular membranes. Glycolic peeling transforms dry skin, moisturizing it and smoothing out the network of fine wrinkles. The skin becomes firm and elastic. Peeling with glycolic acid is a proven prevention of age-related changes and unwanted pigmentation;
• milk peeling One of the weakest cleansing procedures recommended for owners sensitive skin. Peeling with lactic acid helps refresh the complexion and even out the first expression lines;
• almond peeling with phenoxyglycolic acid obtained from bitter almond grains. A special indication for almond exfoliation is rosacea (the appearance of extensive redness, painful papules and pustules on the skin), accompanied by signs of photoaging, acne and fine wrinkles.

Depending on the sensitivity of the skin and the indications for exfoliation, the superficial peeling procedure lasts from 15 minutes to half an hour. During the session, the woman experiences a slight tingling sensation on her face and a tolerable burning sensation. The next day after peeling, the skin turns red, but within 5 days this reaction disappears.

On the border between superficial and medium peels there are 3 types of mixed type exfoliation: retinoic (yellow) peeling, salicylic peeling and Jessener peeling. They are also well tolerated by the skin, but the components of peeling products penetrate deeper than the hardened epidermis.

• retinoic peeling is multicomponent. The composition of preparations for “yellow” exfoliation includes several acids, the main one is a synthetic analogue of vitamin A. Retinol normalizes the production and distribution of melanocytes in the subcutaneous tissue, the accumulation of which provokes pigmentation. Therefore, retinoic peeling is considered an effective means of getting rid of brown spots on the face. The “companions” of retinol in the “yellow” peeling complement the aesthetic transformation: phytic acid slows down cell aging, kojic acid acts as an antioxidant, azelaic acid disinfects and relieves inflammation, and vitamin C brightens the skin and triggers collagen synthesis. As a result, universal retinoic peeling erases many diverse imperfections from a woman’s face;
• Salicylic peeling dissolves layers of dead epidermis, exfoliates old cells, and has an antiseptic and antibacterial effect. Salicylic acid molecules easily penetrate deep into the protective skin barrier and suppress internal infections;
• Jessner peel. This “youth cocktail” based on salicylic, lactic and retinoic acid is especially appreciated by Hollywood stars for its speed of action and minimal rehabilitation. For superficial exfoliation, the drug is applied to the face in one layer. This is enough to deeply moisturize the skin, improve its microrelief, narrow pores, lighten age spots and visually smooth out light scars.

Gold standard: medium peels

Median exfoliation works at a depth of 0.45 mm of the epidermal layer, i.e. affects the keratinized epithelium and the papillary dermis. Medium type peelings are allowed for women only after 30-35 years. They allow you to lighten serious age-related pigmentation, remove deep folds, thin the skin, and fight keratosis and sagging.

Medium chemical peels are called non-surgical lifting: their effect is comparable to hardware lifting of the oval face or reinforcement with gold threads. For the most part, these are uncomfortable procedures that cause pain to women with a high sensitivity threshold. Sometimes such acid exfoliation requires topical anesthesia. Cosmetological manipulations are carried out with more aggressive acids of high concentration, so the healing period of the skin after medium peelings extends to 3-4 weeks.

A medium chemical peel session lasts from 20 minutes to half an hour. During the procedure, the burning sensation may intensify. The next day, the skin of the face becomes red, tight and swollen. Dryness persists for 1-2 weeks. In parallel, peeling and detachment of the injured upper epidermis occurs. At this time, it is important to follow the rules of post-peeling care, use wound healing creams and not remove the scabs. After a month, the skin is renewed and returns to normal.

Cosmetologists recommend performing medium chemical peels in a course of 4-6 procedures with an interval of at least 2 weeks. During skin rehabilitation, it is better to take a vacation and recover at home. The ideal season for mid-exfoliation is late autumn or winter: periods of low solar activity. Without damaging the skin, a maximum of 2 courses of serious acid peels are carried out per year.

• peeling with 35% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is the “gold standard” of medial exfoliation. This manipulation is performed only in the salon. Carrying out the procedure yourself at home is risky and can result in complications. TCA is an optimal anti-aging peeling that stimulates deep cell renewal and visual rejuvenation for at least 5 years. Preparation for it begins 2 weeks before the first procedure. The skin becomes thinner and loosened with special serums based on glycolic or retinoic acids. Categorical contraindications for TSA are dermatological diseases (for example, vitiligo), the tendency of the skin to form keloid scars and rosacea.

Acid lifting: deep peelings

Deep chemical peeling for the face, the types of which are few and even prohibited for use in some European countries, is compared by experts to plastic surgery. The manipulations are carried out using a non-surgical method, but the components of the peeling products used damage the skin of the face no less than a scalpel.

Deep chemical exfoliation “removes” 0.6 mm of the epidermal layer almost to the beginning of the subcutaneous fatty tissue. The procedure is performed with aggressive phenolic acid and croton oil and, being dangerous, is performed only by cosmetologists with anesthesia in aesthetic medicine clinics.

Phenol, like a laser, destroys the entire epidermis and most of the dermis. The face becomes an open and painful wound, which takes at least six months to heal. Phenol peeling can be performed only once a year and no more than 3 times in a lifetime.

Deep chemical peeling corrects the most complex and long-standing defects of appearance: scars, scars, deep age wrinkles and old age spots. As a result of just one phenol procedure, the skin is rejuvenated, the oval of the face is tightened, and the result of exfoliation lasts for decades.

It is better to entrust the choice of a suitable chemical peel to a professional cosmetologist. The prescription for exfoliation is usually based on the indication, skin type, patient's age and health status, as well as financial capabilities.