Stole by car

You will need: 300 g beige yarn (50% wool, 50% acrylic, 100 g/1600 m); hook No. 1.5.

Stockinette stitch, pattern on punched card, st. without crochet and st. double crochet

Machine test: 32 l, x 42 r. = 10 x 10 cm, the sample is knitted with stockinette stitch on knitting machine Brother 5th class at 5** density.

Attention! The stole is made on a Brother knitting machine of the 5th class with a density of 5**.

Description of knitting a stole on a machine

Pull 124 needles (62-62) into the PNP and use a loop hook to make a cast-on row in a “braid”. Then knit on density 5** as follows: 10 rows in stockinette stitch, 216 rows in a punched card pattern, *18 rows in stockinette stitch, 4 rows in a punched card pattern (1st to 4th row)*, repeat from * to * another 17 times, 216 rows with a pattern on a punched card, 10 rows in stockinette stitch. We knit the last row at a density of 10**, push all the needles into the PNP and close the loops with a cable crochet hook.

Assembly:

Steam the fabric. Crochet the wide sides 1 side by side alternately. without crochet, in. p., and the narrow sides - 1 next to each other, alternately st. double crochet, in. p. On the narrow sides, make tassels with a finished length of 8-9 cm.

Adviсe

Knitted items should not be hung on coat hangers, as they will stretch under their own weight.

It is better to wash in cool water using special detergents. Knitted product soak for 3 minutes, squeeze several times, but do not rub. Then rinse thoroughly cold water and squeeze lightly.

When doing push-ups, do not twist! Wrap in terry towel and squeeze again. Straighten the product and lay it out on a flat surface, preferably on a fabric that allows air to pass through well.

In order to clearly track the rows when knitting, we recommend every 10 rubles. mark the outer loops. This will make future calculations much easier for you.

Knitting a top by machine

Size 46-48

You will need: 200 g of blue yarn (50% wool. 50% acrylic, 100 g/800 m); hook No. 1.5.

Facial surface, st. without a crochet.

Main pattern:

1st row *9 sts. stitch, push the 10th needle into the stitch, and move the 10th loop to the 11th stitch *, repeat from * to * until the end of the row;

2-6th row: stockinette stitch (every 10th needle also in NP);

Rows 7-18: stockinette stitch (on all needles);

19th row: * K14 stitches. stitch, push the 15th needle into the stitch, and move the 15th loop to the 16th stitch *, repeat from * to * until the end of the row;

20-25th row: stockinette stitch (every 10th needle also in NP);

Rows 26-37: stockinette stitch (on all needles). Alternate from rows 1 to 37.

Pico: 1 tbsp. without crochet, 3 in. p. and conn. Art. in Art. without a crochet. from which they began to knit. P.

Machine test: 34 p. x 46 r. = 10 x 10 cm, knitted with stockinette stitch on a Brother knitting machine, class 5, density 4*.

Attention! The top is made on a Brother knitting machine of the 5th class at a density of 4*.

Back:

Pull 166 needles (83-83) into the PNP and, by twisting, cast on the first row; for hems, knit 6 rows with stockinette stitch at a density of 3, 2 rows at a density of 2**, 2 rows at a density of 2*, then in reverse order. Having knitted 20 rows according to the counter, reset it to zero, put the loops of the first row on working needles and knit together with the working loops in stockinette stitch at a density of 4*. Next, knit with the main pattern. Having knitted 290 rows on the counter, for shoulder bevels close on both sides in each 2nd row 6 times for 5 sts and 4 times for 4 sts. At the same time, knitting 296 rows according to the counter, to cut the neckline, close in each 2nd row 2 times for 10 sts, 2 times 5 p., 1 time 4 p. and 1 time 3 p. Finish the work.

Before:

Knit up to the armholes, like a back. After knitting 184 rows according to the counter, to expand the fabric, add 1 stitch on both sides in every 7th row. After knitting 290 rows according to the counter, for shoulder bevels, close on both sides in every 2nd row 6 times for 5 sts and 4 times for 4 sts. Having knitted 310 rows on the counter, then knit with partial knitting, pushing into NP in every 2nd row on both sides 10 times for 4 sts. Having knitted 330 rows along the counter, knit Row 1 on all stitches and cast off.

Assembly:

Steam the parts. Sew shoulder and side seams. Crochet the armholes and neckline: 1 row alternately 3 tbsp. without crochet, picot.

MK Chasika hat

On the count of MK hats: yes MK Chasika, my head circumference is 52 cm, I had a set of 70-0-70 wrong side on square 6** 72 rows, then an eyelet.
Bend: 4p pl6**; 2p square 9; 4p square 6**; connecting row pl.10
The outer part of the jacquard is immediately after the bend and eyelet on PL 8.
The outer one is only 66p of the pattern, double decrease, 2p satin stitch, double decrease, a row of satin stitch and tighten with thread. I tied it with thread by adding a thick synthetic thread; angora is not very strong when it comes to tearing.
My layout: back of the head 12 stitches. forehead 10-0-17 the rest for tying the ears.
Don’t rely too much on my numbers, just as a guide - make your own calculations!

little girls, the promised description of a children's hat with ears and a strap across the face. Sorry that it was later than promised, but the children were so sick that I even became close with the pharmacists at the pharmacy.
The entire hat is knitted on one pattern, so many people can knit it. I will describe how I knitted a hat for my daughter and a photo of her.
And so let's get started. Let's start with some calculations. My loop test is 3.5*5r. It is necessary to measure the child’s forehead. I measure from one end of the eyebrow to the end of the next. In my case it is 11.5 cm. I know that many people consider ears as the entire number of loops divided into five, of which 2 parts are the forehead, one part is the back and one part each is the ears. I don’t like it, it sits somehow awkwardly. That's why I think so. Double hat, yarn 32/2 in 4 ends
We cast on 140 loops with waste thread, knit several rows and one row with a cord.
After the row with the cord, I have a carriage on the left. Thread a pink working thread and knit 70 rows. We turn off the meter and forget about it for a while. I’ve adapted to making money this way from scraps and combs.

The carriage is on the left, the levers are on the CV, we push the needles 20-0-70 into the PNP. Remember I said to measure your forehead. For me it is 11.5 cm, i.e. central 40 needles (20-0-20).

We knit a row, wrap the outermost needle with a working thread so that there are no holes, and push the 10 needles on the leftmost into the PNP. This is enough for the back for children up to 5-6 years old.

And so we knit, pushing one needle at a time on the opposite side of the carriage in the PNP, not forgetting to wrap the thread around it and rehang the weights. We knit like this until there are 10-12 needles left in the work, you don’t need any less, the ear will not be beautiful. I have 11 needles left. The carriage is on the right, we move the needles on the far left a little so that they are knitted and we knit a ryar. At the same time, remember the last needle on the far right in the PNP. This is my 35th needle. Let's just remember that's all.

So, we knitted one part of the inner one of the ears. we break the thread and remove these needles from work. We move the carriage to the right side and knit the inside of the second ear in the same way. When you finish knitting it, the carriage will be on the right. We turn off the CV levers and change the thread to lilac. I advise you to knit the first such hat in exactly different colors to understand how the strap is knitted. Then you will scald with your eyes closed and the same color. We knit 8 rows at working density, 2 rows looser by 2 units and another 8 rows at working density. I have a working density of 5, 2 loose rows at 7 density, this is where the bar bends.

Now we remove all the weights, take out the comb, slightly extend the needles, but make sure that the loops do not run behind the tongues, otherwise it will be difficult to hang the bar. We take the decker and hang the bar from the very first lilac loops. The first time I did this for a very long time and then I decided that I would not knit like that again. In total, since the beginning of the month I have knitted 9 such hats.

When everything is done, we move all the needles into the PNP, so it’s easier for the machine to knit and we knit one row 2 units looser. The plank is at work, you can’t see it, but you can already touch it

The carriage is on the right, turn on the CV levers, push the needles 35-0-70 into the PNP. Remember when we memorized the needle? This is where we extend the needles. We knit a row, counting 11 needles from the 35th needle. These are the needles that we had left in our work when we knitted our ear. And we push the rightmost needles into the PNP

We knit a row, the carriage is on the right, we push the first needle in the PNP opposite to the carriage a little with our finger so that it is knitted in the future. We knit a row and do the same on the other side. There is no need to wrap the thread around it. Don't forget to hang the weights.

We knit like this until the needles return to work, up to 20 needles, this is our forehead, remember? In this case, the carriage should be on the right. And on the left we push the outermost 10 needles so that they are knitted. You should have it like this

So our ear is knitted, the carriage is on your left. We bring these needles of the tied ear into the PNP, break the thread and move the carriage to the right side. We knit the second ear in the same way. Once you're done with it, you'll have the carriage on the right. We turn off the CV levers, turn on the counter and knit 70 rows, it can be jacquard, it can be stripes or just plain. As you wish.

When our rows are connected, we take the decker in our hands again and hang our very first loops on the needles. A little more and we will remove our beauty from the car. We pull out the double cord, remove the throw, and knit 6 more rows, then hang the loops over one and knit 4 more rows. I'm the most the last row I knit at the loosest density, it’s 10*. We cut the thread, leaving it for stitching, knit several rows with a throw and cut it off the machine

This is the simplest of all knitting machines. A beautiful and unusual stole was my first product made with it. It’s not complicated at all, you just need to get used to the algorithm of actions.
Before starting work, we refuel the machine and disassemble the needles: three in the front working position - PNP, seven - in the rear non-working position - ZNP. We collect loops using a pigtail loop catcher. That is, three loops around the needles, and 7 air loops like a crochet set and again around three needles. We have 10 loops. You can make any number of needles, this will only slightly change the pattern and density of the finished stole.
After casting on the loops, we put the thread into the carriage, which should be on the right. We place the Russell levers on both sides in position 1. Thus, we have enabled partial knitting. Using this function we will knit our beauty.
It looks like this:

We move the outer three needles to the middle working position. The remaining needles remain in the PNP and ZNP as they were. We knit these three outer needles with a carriage:

We have the carriage on the right. We take the thread and wind it, as shown in the second photo, under the outer needle. The thread remains in the carriage. We knit back to the right. We hang the load on the loops of the first trinity. Again we knit these outer three needles to the left and again bring the thread under the outer needle.

We do this five times. It turns out this picture, before the last sixth time, the carriage is on the right.

We remove the next three needles to the middle working position - SRP. And we knit the first and second trinity.

We thread the outer needle again.

We push the first three needles into the PNP, they are no longer knitted.

We are now working with the second three. She's in the PSA. We knit 4 times, since the first coincides with the sixth of the previous three needles. The carriage is on the right. Place the next three needles in the PSA again and move to the left to knit the second and third sets of needles. When knitting to the right, we also wrap the thread around the outer needle.

The result is a canvas like this:

Having reached the last three needles, we knit them 12 times, not six. That is, we turn to reverse side. You will get this picture:

Do not forget to change the position of the needles that have already stopped working on the PNP so that they are not accidentally knitted by the carriage. Change the weights in a timely manner; the evenness of the loops depends on them. I recommend knitting this stole on a gauge of 4 to 6. Knitting too loose will result in an unclear pattern. And high density will not allow the product to become airy.

It’s easy to finish knitting - after knitting to the edge, knit six times instead of 12. And bind off the three loops using needles as usual. Where the needles are in the ZNP, you will have to tinker: use a loop catcher to pick up air loops and close the trio again on the machine.
This stole can be knitted in 4 hours. Since this was my first piece, it took me 8 hours. But having mastered all the operations of extending needles, rearranging weights, counting knitted rows on the first lower tier, I knitted further almost without looking.
After removing the canvas from the machine, it should be allowed to rest for a couple of hours. Then wash by hand in shampoo or liquid soap. Squeeze gently. This product can only be dried on a horizontal surface. Spread your hands on the towel and cover with the second towel on top. If the stole is too long, fold it in half. No blocking needed.
After the masterpiece has dried, attach the brushes. To do this, cut equal pieces of thread, and crochet along the edge every two threads into the places of the front stitch of 3 loops.

Snezhana Novikova