Sizes: 30(38)46. You will need: Novita 7 Veljesta yarn (75% wool, 25% polyamide, 100 m/50 g) -50 (50) 100 g terracotta color 644) 50 g each green (322) white (010) light gray 047) dark gray (044) and purple (573 colors, sock needles No. 3.5~4.
Rib 1×1: knit alternately 1 person. p. and 1 p. n. Knit stitch: when knitting in the round only faces. loops.
Sequence of alternating stripes: knit *4 rows of purple thread, 1 row of light gray, 1 row of white, 2 rows of green, 1 row of purple, 3 rows of light gray, 2 rows of dark gray, 1 row of light gray, 2 rows of white, 1 row of green, 2 rows of purple, 1 row of dark gray, 1 row of terracotta, 1 row of light gray, 2 rows of green, 2 rows of white, 2 rows of terracotta thread* repeat*-*.
Knitting density: 21 sts. satin stitch = 10 cm.
Using terracotta thread, cast on 52(64)72 sts, distribute the stitches across 4 needles on the 1st and 4th knitting needles, 16(20)22 sts each, on the 2nd and 3rd knitting needles, 10(12)14 sts each Change the row between the 1st and 4th knitting needles. Knit in a 3 cm round using 1×1 rib. Next, knit faces. satin stitch, alternating colored stripes in the specified sequence. When the length of the work is 8 (15) 15 cm, start decreasing in the center of the back of the sock (at the beginning of the 1st and at the end of the 4th needles) as follows: knit at the beginning of row 1 knit. sts and 2 sts together, then knit stitches according to the pattern until 3 sts remain until the end of the row, knit 2 sts together. broaching (= remove 1 p. knit., knit 1 knit. p. and pull it through the removed loop) and 1 knit. p. Repeat decreases in the next 8th row 1 more time and then in every 4th row 4 (6) 6 times. Each needle should have 10(12)14 stitches.
When the length of the work is 24 (34) 34 cm (after knitting the last row with terracotta thread), start knitting the holes for the heel. To do this, remove the loops of the 1st and 4th knitting needles. knitting needle and set aside. Then cast on 30(34)38 stitches with terracotta thread and divide these stitches between the 1st and 4th needles. Continue knitting 1 more row in the round on all loops with terracotta thread and then knit stripes as before.
At the same time, after 2 rows, begin knitting the instep wedge. To do this, at the end of the 1st knitting needle, knit 2 stitches together. and at the beginning of the 4th knitting needle, knit 2 stitches together. broaching Repeat such decreases in every 2nd row until there are 10 (12) 14 stitches on each needle. Next, knit straight 10 (14) 19 cm.
Then knit only the faces with terracotta thread. satin stitch, knitting the toe. To do this, at the beginning and in the middle of each knitting needle: knit 2 stitches together. = 32(40)48 p. Knit 4 rows straight. Work 1 more row with decreases = 24(32)40 sts, 3 rows without decreases, 1 row with decreases = 16(24)32 sts. Continue knitting in this way, knitting 1 row less between rows with decreases, until there are no left. only 8 stitches. Cut the thread, pull the remaining loops with the end of the thread and fasten.
Then return to the set heel stitches, remove the stitches from the extra stitches. knitting needles on 1 knitting needle on another knitting needle, cast on loops along the bottom edge of the cut + 1 st between the knitting needles = 52 (60) 68 sts. Evenly distribute the loops on 4 knitting needles, 13 (15) 17 sts on each knitting needle. Knit with terracotta thread in the round. stitch, while in the first row on each knitting needle, decrease 1 st. = 48(56)64 sts. In the next row, knit 2 sts together at the beginning and in the middle of each knitting needle. = 40(48)56 p. Knit 0(5)5 rows without decreasing and 1 more row with decreasing = 40(40)48 p. Knit 4 rows without decreasing and 1 row with decreasing = 32(32)40 p. Continue knit in this way, knitting 1 row less between rows with decreases, until only 8 stitches remain. Cut the thread, pull the remaining loops with the end of the thread and fasten.
Sock size: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/44
Foot length: 22 – 24 – 27 cm
Sock length: 33 – 36 – 39 cm
Materials: Karisma Superwash
100 g color No. 01, undyed white
100 g color No. 44, light gray
100 g color No. 21, gray
Knitting needles size 3.5 mm
Knitting density: 22 p. x 30 r. on knitting needles 3.5 mm = 10×10 cm.
Rib: repeat *k3, p3*.
Pattern: See diagram.
Symbols on the diagram:
Empty square = uncolored white
Line in a square = light gray
Black square = gray
Heel reductions:
1st row (front side): Knit until 7-8-9 stitches remain in the row, slip the next loop without knitting, k1, pull the knitted loop through the removed
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit until 7-8-9 sts remain, slip next stitch without knitting, purl 1.
Row 3: Knit until 6-7-8 stitches remain, slip off next stitch without knitting, k1, pull knitted stitch through removed stitch
Row 4: Knit until 6-7-8 stitches remain, slip off next stitch without knitting, p1, pull knitted stitch through removed
Row 5: Knit until 5-6-7 stitches remain, slip off next stitch without knitting, k1, pull knitted stitch through removed
Row 6: Knit until 5-6-7 stitches remain, slip off next stitch without knitting, P1, pull knitted stitch through removed
Continue in this manner, leaving 1 st less before each decrease until 10-10-10 sts remain.
Sock: Cast on 66-72-78 sts on double-sided knitting needles with thread the color of undyed wool and knit with an elastic band and stripes according to the pattern. When the knitting reaches 30-33-36 cm, decrease 1 stitch in each purl section, knitting 2 purls together. p. purl (k3/p2 in ribbed) = 55-60-65 p. When knitting reaches 32-35-38 cm, decrease 1 p. in each front section, knitting 2 knits together (knit 2/p2 in ribbed ) = 44-48-52 sts. When the knitting reaches 33-36-39 cm (even out after 6 rows with a thread of the color of undyed wool) place the middle 22-24-26 sts on the auxiliary thread. Now knit 5-5.5-6 cm in stockinette stitch on the remaining 22-24-26 stitches (= heel). Decreases for the heel - see above. After heel, cast on 11-13-15 sts on each side of heel and place all sts on needles = 54-60-66 sts. Rib work on middle 22-22-26 sts and satin stitches over remaining sts as follows: 12 rows light thread gray and 2 rows with gray thread and then continue according to the pattern. At the same time, decrease as follows: knit together 2 sts before the elastic and knit together 2 sts after the elastic behind the back wall in every second row a total of 6 times = 42-48-54 sts. Continue until the length of the work reaches approximately 18- 20-22 cm from the heel. Align by repeating the pattern and finish the sock with a thread the color of undyed wool. Insert a marker on each side and decrease to thumb on both sides of each marker as follows: k2. together in front of marker and purl 2. together after the marker behind the back wall. Repeat decrease in every second row only 3 times = 30-36-42 sts. Then decrease in each row only 6-7-9 times = 6-8-6 sts left. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining loops. Sew.
Brief but step-by-step instruction with pictures:1. Cast on loops based on the pattern and the desired degree of fit.
2. Distribute these stitches evenly on four knitting needles (of course, all this can be done on circular knitting needles).
3. Close in a ring and knit with the chosen pattern (close carefully, without twisting, so as not to get a Möbius strip)
4. Once the cuff is knitted, move on to the main pattern. Depending on the ratio of the densities of both knittings, you may need to increase or decrease the loops (when combining elastic and satin stitch, I personally do not change anything).
5. When the desired length of the boot is reached, knitting of the heel begins. The heel is knitted on two needles; the location of the row change depends on which needles. This can be important when knitting striped socks and socks with a horizontal pattern. Where to place this “seam” is a matter of personal taste, it can be on the inside of the foot (then there will be a right and left toe) or the rear-plantar part of the toe.
Personally, I usually add an extra stitch at the beginning of the first and at the end of the second heel needle. This loop goes into the edge loops from which the foot loops will then be cast on.
6. The height of the heel depends on the specific legs, mainly on the “steepness” of the instep.
7. When the desired heel height is reached, the loops begin to decrease, forming the heel.
The total number of loops is divided by three (if the number of loops is not a multiple of three, then “extra” loops are added either to the middle part or equally to the side parts, depending on the desired fullness-depth ratio of the heel.
Personally, I start my decreases on the purl row, so that when finished, I can immediately start casting on stitches to continue knitting.
The last loop of the middle part is knitted together with the first loop of the side part. After which the knitting is unrolled, the first loop is removed, knitted to the penultimate loop of the middle part, the last loop of the middle part is knitted together with the first loop of the side part, a reversal again, and so on until all the loops of the side parts are finished.
it turns out:
8. Cast on loops. How exactly and how many loops to cast on in how many rows depends on your personal knitting style, pattern, yarn and degree of perfectionism. Personally, when knitting with stockinette stitch, I cast on one loop from each edge stitch (I have one for two rows), nothing pulls or gathers anywhere.
9. Next, knitting becomes circular again. The loops of the left knitting needles are knitted, loops are cast on along the second edge of the heel, half of the loops remaining when forming the heel are knitted onto the same knitting needle (so that the number of loops on the “heel” knitting needles is equal).
10. Depending on the height of the heel, “extra” loops may appear that form a heel wedge. They are reduced depending on the desired shape of this wedge.
Here I have three of them, reduced by 12 rows.
11. Next, knit in the round until almost the required length is reached. The magnitude of this “almost” depends on the method of closure. On thin yarn and when knitting with stockinette stitch, the simplest closure looks normal by knitting two loops together in each row at the beginning or end of each knitting needle.
If there are striped patterns or when knitting with thick yarn, this method does not look very good.
Personally, I prefer a rounded toe in such cases.
The first and second spokes are the upper part of the foot, the third and fourth are the sole. To decrease: at the beginning of the first knitting needle, the first and second loops are knitted together with a tilt to the left, at the end of the second knitting needle, the penultimate and last loops are knitted together with a tilt to the right, the third knitting needle - like the first, the fourth - like the second.
Here I decrease 3 times on every other row, and 3 times on every row.
Beginning of decrease, side view:
View from above:
When there are five loops left on the knitting needles, I knit similarly to the heel, gradually decreasing the loops on both sides of the side track of two loops. I do this in pairs, on the first and fourth and second and third knitting needles.
As a result, four loops remain, which can simply be pulled together with thread or closed with a knitted seam.
Of course, you should choose the degree of rounding and toe design that suits your specific feet, pattern and yarn.
For example, with a 1x1 elastic band, I do not make this decreasing hem from two loops, but decrease the loops with a slope in the other direction and sew the remaining loops after rounding (the top with the sole) with a knitted seam.
Performance characteristics of the above socks:
Yarn: Tivoli "New Celtic Aran" (100% wool, 100g/150m)
Spokes: No. 4
Consumption for sizes 37-38: burgundy - 80g, white - 38g.
To smooth out the steps caused by a color change, I used the simplest method: last row knitted the current color last stitch row together with the loop of the previous row (lower). upd: I made a picture to illustrate the process:
http://ru-knitting.livejournal.com/3553 588.html?thread=70087988#t70087988
Here you can evaluate how striking the junction of the rows and stripes is:
Naturally, on thinner yarn (here we used rather thick yarn 100g/150m) or performed with straighter hands, this manipulation is less noticeable.
For those whose level of perfectionism does not want to put up with the fact that in one place of the strip there is one more stretched loop instead of the intended two, there are many other ways to smooth out the transition.
Women's size
Materials
Yarn Rellana Flotte Socke (75% wool, 25% nylon, 50 g/210 m) 1 skein of brown color and 1 skein of contrasting color, stocking needles 2.5 mm
Knitting density
31 p. and 42 r. = 10x10 cm in stockinette stitch
Description
Using a thread of the main color, cast on 8 loops on 2 knitting needles, connect in a circle and knit 1 row of knit stitches, distribute across 4 knitting needles (4 sts per knitting needle) and knit 4 knit stitches. on each spoke. Next, knit increasing circles: knit stitches. to the last loop on 1 knitting needle - 1 stitch from the broach, 1 knit stitch; 2 knitting needles - 1 knit stitch, 1 stitch from broach, knit knit stitch. to end; 3 knitting needle - knit like 1 knitting needle; 4 needle - knit like 2 needle. Repeat the increase circle in each circle until there are 10 stitches on each needle, then increase the circle in every other circle until there are 16 loops on the needles. Knit the toe with a thread of the main color 5 cm long and then knit in stripes, changing colors every 4 circles, while knitting the first 8 circles and then repeat the pattern according to pattern 1. Knit the foot of the required length and then make the heel in short rows (boomerang heel) in half loops trace way:
Row 1 - knit, knit stitches to the end of the row.
Row 2 - purl, divide the loops into 3 parts (32 loops in total, 11 loops along the edges, 10 loops in the center). First loop purl. - double for a short row. We insert the right knitting needle into the first loop of the left knitting needle, the thread before work, the knitting needle is inserted so that the thread lies on the knitting needle. Remove the loop without knitting. Pull the thread back so that there are 2 loops on the knitting needle (you should tighten it tightly), knit a trace. loop. Knit p.p. to the end of the row.
Row 3: at the beginning of the row, follow a double loop, the working thread behind the knitting needle, it must be thrown over the knitting needle, remove the loop with the thread without knitting, the thread should wrap around the knitting needle from top to bottom and from front to back. Knit faces.p. to the end of the row.
Row 4: knit a row of purl stitches, except for the double loop of the previous row, leave it on the knitting needle.
Repeat rows 3 and 4, leaving double stitches undone each time. Knit all the side loops in this way and another loop on each side of the central part. Knit 1 row of stitches. on all loops, while knitting double loops as 1 loop. Now knit again in short rows, expanding the central part.
1st row - purl, knit all the loops of the central part, turn the knitting.
Row 2 - knit, double loop, all loops in the central part of the heel, turn.
Row 3 and all subsequent rows - double loop, all loops of the central part to the double loop, knit a double loop for both parts as one, knit a trace. loop according to the pattern, turn the knitting.
Knit the shin to a height of 8 cm from the heel, finish with 4 rows of thread of the main color, knit a pattern repeat according to the pattern. Next are 8 circles with a striped pattern. Continue with a thread of the main color with an elastic band 1x1 (1 knit, 1 p) 5 cm, bind off all loops.
After the last p.r. perform 1 double loop and then knit in the round on all loops.
Dimensions: 38-39 (40-41)
You will need: 100 g each of white, red, orange and gray wool blend yarn (200 m/50 g); stocking needles No. 2.5; 2 red cord holders.
Facial surface: persons R. - persons p., out. R. - purl n. In a circle. R. knit only faces. P.
Purl stitch: In circular rows, knit only purl. P.
Rubber: alternately knit 2, purl 2.
Openwork pattern A (29 p.): knit according to the pattern, in even circles. R. Knit all loops and yarn overs. Repeat the given loops from the 1st to the 24th round. r., observing the alternation of colors.
Openwork pattern B: the number of loops is a multiple of 14: also knit according to the pattern, but repeat repeat loops from the 1st to the 24th round. R.
Sequence of stripes: 2 rounds each. R. * red, orange, white and gray thread, repeat from *.
Knitting density, knits. smooth surface: 28 p. and 40 r. = 10 x 10 cm.
Basic course. Knitting socks using the 4-step method
STEP 1: toe. The set of loops is the same for all socks. For the toe, cast on 6 loops and, distributing them onto 3 needles, close them into a ring (Fig. 1), making sure that the lower edges of all loops are directed downwards and the loops are not twisted. The end of the thread marks the beginning of the round. If necessary, it should be additionally marked with a thread of a contrasting color. When knitting, the mark moves upward along with the work and indicates where the circular row ends. Knit 1 circle. R. persons p. (ill. 2). Next round. R. perform 1 purl from each loop. increase by knitting a total of 2 stitches from 1 st: knit 1 st, then use the left knitting needle to grab the lower link of the last knitted loop from back to front and knit. On these 12 sts, knit further knits. stitch, while in the next 2nd round. R. perform 1 purl from every 2nd paragraph. addition = 18 p. These p. are distributed as follows: 1st p. circle. R. forms the right middle st. The next 8 sts form the upper part of the foot, the next st. forms the left middle st and the remaining 8 sts form the sole. To widen the toe in every 2nd circle. R. perform 1 knit from the loop after both middle loops. addition (ill. 3), knitting 2 sts from 1 stitch: insert the right knitting needle into the next stitch of the circle below. R. behind the loop from front to back and knit this loop, while keeping the loop located above it from the knitting needle. Then knit this loop. Additionally, from the loop in front of both middle loops, perform 1 purl. addition = 4 additions in each circle. R. Repeat these additions every 2nd round. R. according to the table or instructions.
STEP 2: foot, heel and instep. Distribute the loops on 4 knitting needles as follows: the loops from the right to the left middle loop are evenly distributed on the 1st and 2nd knitting needles - they form the upper part of the foot, the remaining loops are evenly distributed on the 3rd and 4th knitting needles for the sole. For the foot, knit the number of circles indicated in the table or instructions. R. or see. Then for lifting in every next 2nd circle. R. From the loop after the right middle loop, perform 1 purl. increase, from the loop in front of the left middle loop, perform 1 person. addition. Repeat these additions according to the table or instructions. Simultaneously with the 3rd increase for lifting, begin to perform increases for the heel: from the loop after the left middle loop, perform 1 purl. increase and from the loop in front of the right middle loop, perform 1 person. addition. These additions should also be repeated according to the table or instructions. The instep and heel increments always end in the same circle. R.
STEP 3: Heel cup. For the heel cup, on the middle loops of the sole, knit the 3rd and 4th needles in straight and reverse rows, the number of loops is indicated in the table or instructions. On either side of the heel cup loops are the heel loops. Work the stitches of the top of the foot on the 1st and 2nd needles, as well as the right side stitches of the heel and all the stitches of the cup.
At the same time, knit the last loop of the heel cup with the 1st left side loop of the heel together with a broach (ill. 4): slip the 1st stitch as knit, knit the next stitch, then insert the left knitting needle from left to right into the removed loop, pull the knitted loop through it and lower it from the knitting needle. Turn the work and remove the 1st loop of the heel cup as a purl. At the same time, stretch the thread before work. Knit the remaining loops of the heel cup purlwise, while knitting the last loop with the next right side loop of the heel together purlwise. (ill. 5). thread, like purl. p., located in front of the left knitting needle. Insert the knitting needle from right to left through both loops, pull the thread through and lower the loops from the left knitting needle. * Turn the work again and remove the 1st stitch as knit, thread behind the work. Knit the loops of the heel cup, while knitting the last loop with the next left side loop of the heel together with a broach. Turn the work again and remove the 1st loop of the cup as a purl, stretch the thread before work. Knit the cup loops purlwise, while knitting the last loop with the next right side heel loop together purlwise. Repeat from * number of times according to the table or instructions. Note: For most sock sizes, the loops on the top of the foot may also be included in the heel cup.
STEP 4: pagolenok. The ankle begins at the end of the heel cup. In the 1st circle. R. knit the last loop of the cup with the next loop together with a broach. Knit the 1st loop of the cup with the previous loop together. (ill. 6), thread at work. Insert the right knitting needle from left to right through both loops, pull the thread through and lower the loops from the left knitting needle. As a result, the original number of loops is again achieved. Upon reaching the desired length of the leg, loosely close all the loops according to the drawing. Left sock: for socks with a side pattern on the leg, after the heel cup, distribute the leg loops symmetrically.
Right toe: for the toe, use white thread on stocking needles to cast on 6 sts and, according to the basic rate, add up to 18 sts. Knit knits. satin stitch To expand on both sides of both middle loops, add at the base rate in every 2nd circle. R. 10 x 4 p. = 58 p. Next knit as follows: knit the right middle loop. satin stitch in a sequence of stripes, on the next 28 sts knit with openwork pattern A, while to balance the pattern add 1 st = 29 sts. openwork pattern, the remaining stitches are knitted. in a sequence of stripes = 59 stitches in total. After 18 (19) cm from the cast-on edge, add to rise along the base course in every 2nd row. 8 (9) x 2 p. according to the drawing. Between them, simultaneously with the 3rd increase for lifting, add for the heel in every 2nd row. 6 (7) x 2 sts. satin stitch = 87 (91) sts. Then, on the middle 18 (20) sts of the sole, perform a knit heel cup. satin stitch with white thread. At the same time, on both sides, knit the last and first loops of the cup with the side loop of the sole together 14 (16) times = 59 sts. Then for the pagolenka, knit on all loops with an openwork pattern, in the 1st circle. R. knit the last loop of the cup with the next loop together, knit the first loop of the cup with the previous loop together. and additionally decrease to balance the pattern 1 p. = 56 p. After 36 circles. R. for an openwork pattern, knit 1 circle for the strap with white thread. R. persons p. and then knit with an elastic band. After 8 cm from the beginning of the bar for threading the cord, knit 2 knits. together persons and in return make 1 yarn over. These yarn overs are in the next round. R. knit faces. Knit another 3.5 cm with an elastic band and loosely bind off all the loops. Left toe: knit symmetrically.
Assembly: Twist 2 cords 50 cm long from a double red thread, thread them into the openwork row and blocks and secure with a double knot.