There are two options for making patterns: traditional Japanese with a gusset (when the entire pattern consists of rectangles) and European (most common in martial arts).
Patterns
Japanese cut
Hakama, which was common everyday clothing in Momoyama Japan (1573 - 1603), is cut from three strips of fabric, each 40cm wide. Two stripes go to the front and one to the back. Therefore, you can cut a hakama from fabric 120cm wide. (you can use wider fabric up to 150cm, but not more than 200cm). This pattern is suitable for waist circumferences from 70cm to 127cm. Only the depth of the folds will change.
Taking measurements:
Koshita and bias overlay pattern 
Kosita is a back detail. It is made on a hard lining - several layers of main fabric or jeans.
We cut out the following details
1
- trouser legs - 2 parts,
2
- gusset* - 13x13 cm (plus seam allowances) - 1 piece
3
4
- back belt - width - 10-11cm, length - 2B + 50cm (including seam allowances),
5
- front waistband - width - 10-11cm, length - 3B + 50cm (including seam allowances).
Fabric calculation at A = 120cm
Narrow fabric:
2*A(hakama length) + 4*11(4 belt widths) + 1.5*B/10 (koshita height) 2*1.20+0.44+0.16=3.00m including seam allowances
Wide fabric: 2*A(hakama length)
2*1.20=2.40m taking into account seam allowances
European cut
This pattern will fit sizes 31-35 (waist 85-105cm). If your waist circumference is different, you can adjust the pattern or simply make the folds deeper. You can freely change the pattern at your discretion.
Taking measurements: waist circumference (B) and hakama length (A). Length is measured from waist to ankle.
Koshita and bias overlay pattern
Kosita is a back detail. The calculation is done as follows: Divide the waist circumference (B) by 10 (C). The height of the back is 1-2C, the width at the bottom is 3C, the width at the top is 2C. This part is made on a hard lining - several layers of main fabric or jeans.
C = B / 10
We cut out the following details
1
- trouser legs - 2 parts,
3
- koshita (mow) - 2 parts,
4
- back belt - width - 10-15cm (processed 4-7 cm), length - 2B + 50cm,
5
- front belt - width - 10-15cm (processed 4-7 cm), length - 3B + 50cm.
The belt does not have to be cut out in one piece; you can sew it from several parts.
All parts (except the waistband) have a 1.5cm seam allowance.
When cutting, take into account the direction of the grain thread.
Fabric calculation at A = 120cm
Narrow fabric:
2*A(hakama length) + 4*11(4 belt widths)
2*1.20+0.44=2.84m taking into account seam allowances 
Wide fabric:
2*A(hakama length) + 2*11(2 belt widths)
2*1.20+0.22=2.62m taking into account seam allowances
Sewing procedure for hakama
1 Cut out the hakama.
2 Mark the location of the folds.
3 Hem the bottom of the hakama with a closed hem stitch.
4
Iron the folds. They must be ironed very well, since during wear and especially after washing, the folds may come apart, and ironing them again will be quite problematic.
There are several historically not entirely correct ways of fixing sweets.
A) The folds are stitched along the edges by 1-2 mm (this is visible and absolutely not acceptable if you are reconstructing a costume), you can only stitch the inner parts of the folds - it will not be noticeable.
C) On the wrong side, in the area of the fold, glue an adhesive strip (non-woven fabric) and iron it on the front side. The warehouse will not diverge and it will not be noticeable from the outside.
5 Back of the side slot. Fold the fabric inward on the sides, first once, then twice. Press and stitch.
6
Front part of the side gap. Treat with an undercut facing, the finished width of which at the waistband is 4.5 cm, and disappears towards the end of the gap. The facing is attached to the main fabric using an internal seam, ironed to the front side, the edges of the facing are turned in 1 cm and attached to the front side of the product using a hand-blind seam. Instead of facing, you can cut out and sew pockets.
7.1 For a Japanese cut: sew in the gusset, then sew the seat seam, folding the left and right hakama halves facing inward.
7.2 In the case of a European cut: sew the seam of the seat, folding the left and right halves of the hakama facing inward. Finish the middle of the seat seam with bias stitching.
8 Cut about 3 cm in height from the front half along the waist line - it is shorter than the back. Fold in folds and secure (stitch). The folds on the back panel at the waist go under the right
.
9
Process the back belt:
a) fold the belt in half lengthwise and cut it;
b) fold widthwise with the face inward and stitch at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, without sewing one side;
c) cut off the corners not reaching the line 1mm;
d) turn right side out, straighten;
e) lay a finishing stitch along the edge of the belt at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.
10
Treat the back koshita (mow):
a) sew a belt separately to the front side of the koshiit to the two edges,
b) secure it with two oblique pads,
c) fold the parts of the braid facing inward and sew with a 1 cm seam,
d) turn the kosiitis out,
e) put a board or cardboard inside the mow and stitch it shut.
11 Sew the koshita to the back halves of the hakama.
12
Process the belt for the front hakama halves:
a) connect the parts of the belt into one long strip (if the belt is not solid),
b) fold the belt in half lengthwise and mark the middle,
c) fold the middle of the belt with the middle of the front part of the hakama (the center of the bow fold), align the cuts and sew the belt to the hakama,
d) fold the unsewn ends of the belt along the floors (widthwise) and sheathe them,
e) cut off the corners, not reaching 1 mm from the line,
e) turn it onto the face,
g) sew the belt to the hakama with hidden stitches,
i) place a finishing stitch along the edge of the belt at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.
13
Connect the side seams of the hakama.
Sewing a Japanese kimono is quite a difficult task, which may require patience and a certain skill and dexterity in sewing, and can also take a long time.
Taking a close look at a Japanese everyday kimono, you will notice that there seems to be nothing complicated in sewing. Almost all parts are rectangular, there are no special roundings and the pattern can be made quite simply. Previously, even the size was not practically the same and was adapted to each person in a special way of dressing him.
However, everything is a little different. Traditionally, a kimono is made from material 30-40 centimeters wide. Depending on the type of kimono and patterns, approximately 14 meters of fabric may be required. Japanese masters Those who paint silk make special marks so that later, when sewing, it is possible to correctly cut out individual parts and correctly combine the painting. This is especially important when sewing tsukanage and hemongi, kurotometosode and irotometomode.
If the material is of European type, then it is quite possible to use half of this length, but it is still worth taking measurements first.
The benefit of sewing a kimono from Japanese material is that the edges of the material do not need to be covered and there is no need to use sewing machine, as it can damage the silk material. Another reason why kimonos were sewn by hand with small stitches is that the kimono can be taken apart, washed and sewn again.
In order to correctly make a classic kimono pattern, you should know that the outfit consists of a number of parts:
1. Collar protector (共衿/共襟, tomoeri, if made of the same material, or 掛衿/掛襟, kakeeri, if made of a darker one)
2. collar (本衿/本襟, hon’eri or 地衿/地襟, jieri)
3. right main part (前身頃, maemigoro)
4. left main part (dito)
5. sleeves (袖, sode)
6. sleeve pocket (袂, tamoto)
7. left overlap stripe (衽, okumi)
8. right overlap strip (dito)
9. The point of intersection of the hem of the kimono and the collar (剣先, kensaki)
10. Kimono length (身丈, mitake)
11. Sleeve length (裄丈, yukitake)
12. Shoulder width (肩幅, katahaba)
13. Rukva width (袖幅, sodehaba)
14. Sleeve length (袖丈, sodetake)
15. Place of sleeve rishiva (袖口, sodeguchi)
16. cuff (袖付, sodetsuke)
It should also be noted that women's kimonos in the armpit area there remain elements of the sleeves (身八つ口, miyatsukuchi/miyatsuguchi) and the kimono itself (振八つ口, furiyatsuguchi or 振り口, furikuchi), which are not sewn. The definition comes from the number of “open” or unstitched elements, of which there are a total of 8 on the sleeves, neck and torso.
Cutting from Japanese material is done using the following method:
s - sleeve length, m - kimono length
1. right sleeve
2. left sleeve
3. right main part
4. left main part
5. left overlap lane
6. right overlap strip
7. Collar protection strip
8. collar
Sewing begins by folding the right and left main parts in half and sewing the back. From this place (point) of stitching on the back, you need to set aside 10 centimeters in each direction.
Another strip of material is then taken and cut lengthwise to create a left and right overlap strip, which are sewn to the main flaps of the kimono respectively. The length of these stripes should correspond to the length from the bottom edge of the kimono to the level of the navel.
It is also worth recalling that the total length of the kimono is determined from the shoulder to the ankle of the future owner (if there is a specific person). In other cases, if the kimono is a little long, then a thin belt is used, which can be used to adjust the length and it will then be hidden under the obi.
A cut for the collar will be made along this line. The neckline of the collar is formed along an oblique line down towards the hip and ends at the height of the navel.
Sleeves 30-40 cm wide are cut to the length of the navel (this sleeve length is intended for married women; for unmarried girls it is 100-110 cm.) As a rule, the distance from the shoulder to the navel is taken and multiplied by 2.
As mentioned above, the collar consists of 3 parts, including a protective strip. The collar has a width of 5-8 cm (10-16 cm since it is folded in half) and a length corresponding to the neckline of the collar and sewn on the right and left sides of the overlap. The protective bar intersects at point 9 and can be determined by the solar plexus point of the future owner of the outfit.
The sleeves are sewn together so that there is approximately 20-25 cm of free space in the cuff area. Sleeves are sewn to the main parts of the kimono only in the shoulder area, thus, in the armpit area, parts of the kimono and sleeves remain unsewn
This may be a bit of a challenge from a technical standpoint, but don't despair. At the very end, you need to hem the hem and you're done. However, depending on the cost of the material and the time/quality of processing, a kimono can cost a large amount equivalent to the cost of a car, or even two. In fact, this is a very painstaking and difficult work, and there are only a dozen real masters of this craft left. In Japan, the art is considered endangered, which is why everything is so expensive and so difficult.
And for both information a little about the sleeves
The sleeves of men's kimonos are even shorter than those of tomesode.
A master class that tells you how to sew a kimono with your own hands can be called quite interesting and fascinating. It will be interesting not only to try your hand, but also to learn the history of this traditional Japanese outfit. On the one hand, you need to know how to sew a kimono robe, the pattern of which will be given for clarity, on the other hand, you need to choose the right material for this work.
In general, the kimono dress, the pattern confirms this, is a T-shaped robe, the length of which can be completely different.
This Japanese clothing is secured using a belt located at the waist, called “obi”.
In addition, the Japanese do not use traditional clothes classic buttons like Europeans, and their fasteners consist of straps and twine.
Particular attention should be paid to the interesting shape of the sleeves, which is a distinctive feature of this robe. Sode, as this form of sleeves is called, is much wider than traditional ones and has a shape reminiscent of an ordinary bag. The Japanese kimono pattern shows how much the sleeve opening is smaller than the height of the sleeve itself. The kimono, reminiscent of the shape of a traditional European robe, does not restrict movement and is comfortable to wear. It is also worth noting that the Japanese kimono still resembles a European robe and does not contain an open collar, which is a mandatory attribute of every European costume.
For this type of clothing, as a rule, non-elastic fabrics are used, and for the belt only cloth material is used. The kimono pattern is quite simple and does not contain any patterned or rounded shapes. On the one hand, this is a kind of saving of material when sewing, and on the other hand, the remains of a rectangular shape may well be useful for sewing other types of clothing. It should be recalled that in Japan matter was in short supply.
The threads must be soft to reduce the risk of pulling the fabric. If the design of the clothing was damaged during wear, it can be altered from the same material.
The basic principle of cutting and sewing the Japanese kimono had already developed by the seventh century AD, and in subsequent centuries it lost its free lines. In general, a kimono should hide feminine lines, not reveal them. It should be noted that the kimono belt is quite wide and should be worn well above the natural waist, so that the Japanese woman looks flat in front and simulates a hunched position in the back.
In order to make the process of sewing a kimono more understandable, you should know its complete structure. http://www.aikikan.ru/sites/default/files/k10.png
So, a Japanese kimono consists of:
— patch collar (1);
— main collar (2);
— right body part in front (3);
— left body part in front (4);
— left body part at the back (5);
— right body part at the back (6);
— sufficiently wide sleeves (7);
- a separate part of the bottom of the sleeves (8);
— left front insert (9);
— lower insert at the front (10);
- details called “sword tip” (11).
This is what the bride's kimono looks like in the Kunstkamera.
Properly selected fabric and patterns on it allow you to create a truly work of Japanese art.
And here is a version of a kimono with pheasants, which go well with peonies.
An interesting combination of colors in a kimono with pine trees and fog.
THE ART OF CUT AND SEWING JAPANESE CLOTHING
LESSON 9. AMAGOTO AND HAORI
AMAGOTO (cloak)
The name "Amagoto" comes from two words: AME - "rain" (Japanese) and COAT - "coat" (English). This type of clothing appeared at the end of the 19th century. Amagoto follows the design of a kimono, but the smell is secured with braid ties. It is often sewn from thin woolen fabric. The lining is usually made of smooth fabric so that it glides easily over the silk kimono. The sewing technology is the same as for a kimono. The dimensions indicated in the diagram are given in centimeters.
1. Product length - 112-115 cm (optional)
2. Sleeve width - 42-50 cm (kimono + 1 cm)
3. Armhole length - 19-23 cm (kimono + 1 cm)
4. Sleeve length - 33-35 cm (kimono + 1 cm)
5. Back fabric width - 30.5 cm (like a kimono)
6. The width of the shelf fabric is 24 cm (like a kimono)
7. Wrap width - 15-16 cm (optional)
8. Sprout depth - 4 cm (kimono + 1 cm)
9. Sprout width - 10.5 cm (kimono + 0.5 cm)
10. Distance from the shoulder to the beginning of the insertion of the smell - 23 cm (like a kimono)
11. Armpit gap - 10 cm
12. Collar width - according to the pattern
13. Armhole stitching length - 23-27 cm (kimono + 2-4 cm)
HAORI (jacket-cape)
Hori is part of a man's ceremonial costume. Women wear haori less often. The family coat of arms is usually depicted on the haori (on the back, sleeves and on the front), but not necessarily. Haori can simply be a costume decoration.
It is similar in design to a kimono. The manufacturing technology is similar. The measurements are the same as for amagoto. Made from silk fabric with a silk lining. The haori shelves do not meet, because... it does not have a scent insert. The collar is sewn along the entire length of the side. The width of the collar is the same along the entire length (approximately 6-7 cm). At the neckline, the collar is laid back halfway, and then it is laid back to its full width and hangs freely. At chest level, two ribbons are sewn into the seam where the collar is sewn to the base, thanks to which the haori flaps do not fly apart. The ribbons are tied into a bow. Sometimes they are already used instead finished decoration from braid. It is attached to each field using hooks.
***** ******* *****
This ends the description of the main types women's clothing. The following lessons will look at the types of men's suits.
The permanent address of the next lesson on the Internet is
In order to learn how to sew a kimono, you need a kimono pattern for karate or other martial arts - this is enough to understand all the nuances of sewing traditional Japanese clothing.
Typically, a kimono is a sizeless garment in the form of a robe, the same for both men and women (it can only differ in color). Distinctive feature kimonos have a wide belt and a special cut of the sleeves.
Kimono can be worn as a casual wear home clothes, and also wear for training. The freedom and lightness of the kimono does not restrict movement, it is pleasant to the body, and is easy to put on and take off.
A lot of children different ages They practice in various martial arts sections - karate, wushu, judo. As a rule, a uniform is required for classes - a kimono, which can be quite expensive. But you can sew a simple kimono for children yourself.
Kimonos for karate, aikido, and wushu are sewn in the same way, according to the same principle, and include a wraparound jacket and pants. Kimonos can differ in the length of the jacket itself and the sleeves.
Let's start sewing
So, what is needed for sewing:
- measurements;
- fabric (width 80-90 cm, length - 4 m);
- pattern;
- sewing supplies (threads, scissors, needles);
- sewing machine.
For a kimono you need to know the following measurements:
- semi-circumference of the neck (Ssh);
- half chest circumference (Cg);
- waist circumference (from);
- back length to waist (Dst);
- length from waist to knee (Ltk);
- length of outstretched arms between the tips of the middle fingers (Dr);
- semi-hip circumference (Sb);
- side length from waist to floor (DSB);
- length from knee to floor (Lk).
To accurately determine the size of the future product, you can use the table:
Linen or cotton fabrics with synthetic thread are suitable for sewing. Thick ones are also recommended cotton fabrics. If the fabric is thin, it can be folded in half. The most important thing is that the fabric is breathable and absorbs sweat.
Here is the basic pattern for a simple training gi (jacket and pants):
a - general view of the finished product;
b - jacket;
c - armpit lines;
g - trousers (back and front parts);
d - gusset;
e - strap for fastening.
All parts are cut out in two pieces, taking into account seam allowances. The front and back parts of the jacket are the same, but for the front part you need to make a cutout for the neck and a slit for the wrap. The collar is usually made “standing” and a long rectangular fabric is used to sew it, which is used to process the edge of the wrap all the way to the waist. The fabric is stitched several times to hold the edges well. The wrap and collar should look like one.
To make a belt (25 cm long) you will need approximately 5 meters of fabric 50 cm wide. The fabric is folded several times and stitched so that the belt is durable and does not fray.
Classic version
The classic geisha kimono is an oversized robe with long and wide sleeves. Typically, such a kimono was made from light colored fabrics or decorated with embroidery.
For a geisha, a kimono is work clothing, so it is simple in execution and differs only in color and texture. If you wish, you can sew such a kimono for yourself as home clothes.
A kimono can be schematically depicted as follows:
The peculiarity of a kimono is that it consists of straight lines and geometric shapes- rectangles, trapezoids, squares. This clearly distinguishes traditional Japanese clothing from European models, where, on the contrary, rounded details and smooth lines that follow the silhouette of the body predominate.
This difference contains common cultural concepts about the standard of beauty: for Europeans it is important to emphasize the figure and its relief, but for the Japanese the main thing is to hide all the flaws and differences in lines, to make the figure straight and even.
If desired, you can make a kimono tapered at the bottom or completely straight, but the general principle of a straight cut must be observed.
A simple cut of a traditional Japanese kimono might look like this:
Progress
- Sew the back pieces and cut out the neck taking into account the allowances;
- Sew the front shelves to the back ones from the shoulder to the neckline and the corresponding extensions;
- Fold the sleeve parts along the fold line and sew so that you get two “pipes”;
- Sew the resulting parts (“pipes”) to the kimono - you can sew only the top part, and simply sew up the rest;
- Sew the sides of the kimono from the sleeves to the floor;
- Sew the collar strips into one and sew it along the wrong side, turn it inside out and iron it;
- Sew the collar from the middle of the back neck downwards;
- Hem the loose edges.
Fashionistas can still wear a kimono, but not the traditional one, but with a modern twist.
Kimono dresses - fashion clothes for women of any age. The classic kimono pattern was taken as a basis, and then fashion designers showed ingenuity and imagination so that beautiful modern dresses emerged from traditional Japanese clothing.
To sew such dresses, light fabrics, such as silk, are used. They can be either long or short, multi-colored or plain.
