> Thematic catalog
  • Preface 3
  • SECTION I 7
  • Table of measures and weights 7
  • Table of approximate prices of different products 8
  • General rules regarding the amount of provisions, for 6 people 12
  • Table of approximate cooking times for different foods in the oven 13
  • Stovetop frying chart 14
  • Table of approximate cooking times for various foods 14
  • Table of measures of pickled food 16
  • Drawing and analysis of an ox, the quality of meat and its weight 16
  • Relative weight of different types of meat, in half an ox carcass, medium size 20
  • Recognizing meat quality 21
  • Economic Breakdown of Some Large Cuts of Beef 24
  • Saving meat 26
  • A list of various basic rules when preparing food 26
  • Eating leftovers 37
  • SECTION II 40
  • Lunch menu in 4 categories 41
  • Register of cold appetizers 87
  • SECTION III. Soups 104
  • A) Broths are transparent, yellow and red 109
  • B) White soups with flour dressing 121
  • Cabbage soup 124
  • Borsch 128
  • C) White soups with leison made from yolks and cream 133
  • D) Soups made from white meat broth with cereals and sour cream 135
  • D) Meat puree soups 136
  • E) Fish soups 150
  • G) Oil soups (i.e. without meat and fish) 160
  • H) Milk soups 165
  • I) Hot, sweet soups made from apples, beer, wine and berries 166
  • J) Cold soups 169
  • SECTION IV. Soup accessories 172
  • Croutons, croutons and tartines 172
  • Meatballs 173
  • Meat and fish quenelle (minced meat) 174
  • Olives, tomatoes 176
  • Cereals and noodles 177
  • Roots and vegetables 178
  • Dumplings 182
  • Eggs 184
  • Ears to cabbage soup 185
  • Dumplings 185
  • Pies 186
  • Pie dough 187
  • Puff pastries 192
  • Pies made from crumbly dough, chopped and made with yeast 195
  • Crumpets or donuts 198
  • Yeast pies, deep fried 198
  • Cheesecakes 100
  • Pies and loaves of pancakes 200
  • Pies-buns 201
  • Pies in tin molds and fried in batter 202
  • Minced meat in shells 203
  • Porridge for broth, cabbage soup and borscht 205
  • Croutons, aka croutons from cereals 206
  • SECTION V. Gravy or Sauce 207
  • A) Preparation of various seasonings for sauces 208
  • B) Hot, flour gravies for meat dishes 211
  • B) Hot gravies for vegetables 218
  • D) Hot gravies for hot fish and pates 219
  • E) Cold gravies for cold boiled and fried beef, suckling pig, game, poultry, ham, mayonnaise, jellied and cold fish 223
  • E) Sweet sauces for puddings, cereals, vegetables 224
  • SECTION VI. Dishes from vegetables and herbs and various side dishes for them 228
  • I group. Leguminous vegetables 228
  • II group. Herbaceous vegetables 234
  • III group. Roots 250
  • IV group. Fragrant herbs 270
  • V group. Mushrooms 272
  • SECTION VII. Beef, veal, lamb, pig, pork, hare 281
  • A) Beef 281
  • B) Veal 312
  • B) Lamb 331
  • D) Pig 339
  • D) Pork 342
  • E) Ham 346
  • G) Wild pig, chamois, venison, fallow deer 347
  • H) Hare 349
  • SECTION VIII. Poultry and game 351
  • A. Poultry 351
  • B. Game 375
  • Small game 383
  • SECTION IX. Pisces 387
  • SECTION X. Salads for roast meat and fish 438
  • SECTION XI. Pies and pates 442
  • A) Pies 442
  • B) Pates 452
  • SECTION XII. Jellied, mayonnaise and other cold dishes for lunch and breakfast 466
  • A) Jellied, roll 466
  • B) Mayonnaise 472
  • B) Vinaigrette 481
  • D) Marinated fish and poultry served for breakfast or snack 483
  • SECTION XIII. Puddings, charlottes, soufflés, air pies, etc. 484
  • A) Puddings that are boiled in a napkin 486
  • B) Steamed puddings 488
  • C) Puddings that are baked in a mold in an oven 495
  • D) Charlotte 505
  • D) Soufflé baked on a plate or in a charlotte dish 507
  • E) Air pies, which are baked and served on the same dish 508
  • G) Various sweet hot dishes that are baked and served on the same dish 510
  • H) Sweet dishes, mostly served cold 512
  • SECTION XIV. Apple dishes 516
  • SECTION XV. Pancakes, Russian pancakes, croutons. Egg dishes 520
  • A) Pancakes 520
  • B) Russian pancakes 524
  • C) Croutons aka croutons 528
  • D) Egg dishes 530
  • SECTION XVI. Sorcerers, dumplings, dumplings, vermicelli or noodles, lazanka, pasta, cheesecakes, dumplings, etc. 533
  • A) Sorcerers, dumplings, dumplings 533
  • B) Vermicelli noodles 536
  • B) Lazankas 538
  • D) Italian pasta 539
  • D) Syrniki 541
  • E) Dumplings 542
  • SECTION XVII. Porridge 544
  • A) Semolina 544
  • B) Smolensk groats 545
  • B) Small buckwheat 547
  • D) Large buckwheat “Yadritsa” 548
  • D) Rice groats 549
  • E) Barley 552
  • G) Pearl barley 552
  • H) Oatmeal 552
  • I) Various cereals 553
  • SECTION XVIII. Waffles, tubes, wafers, brushwood, pancakes 554
  • A) Waffles 554
  • B) Tubes 556
  • B) Wafers 557
  • D) Brushwood 557
  • D) Pancakes 558
  • SECTION XIX. Sweet pies and pies, cheesecakes, petishas, ​​crumpets or donuts, scrambled eggs and other various flour dishes 560
  • A) Sweet pies, pies and cheesecakes 560
  • B) Small cheesecakes 567
  • B) Petichou 568
  • D) Puffs or donuts 569
  • D) Drachena 571
  • E) Assorted sweet pies 572
  • SECTION XX. Ice cream, creams, marshmallows, mousses, blamange, jelly, compotes, milk custards 576
  • A) Ice cream 576
  • B) Cream 582
  • C) Marshmallow or cream without glue 587
  • D) Whipped cream 588
  • D) Ice cream 589
  • E) Parfait 591
  • G) Jelly 592
  • H) Mousse 598
  • K) Kiseli 601
  • L) Compotes 604
  • M) Dairy custards 607
  • SECTION XXI. Cakes 610
  • A) Glaze 611
  • B) Different masses for transferring cakes 612
  • B) Cakes 613
  • SECTION XXII. Mazurkas and other small cakes 628
  • A) Mazurkas 628
  • B) Small cake 630
  • SECTION XXIII. Vegetarian table 683
  • SECTION XXIV-XXXVI. Lenten table 698
  • DEPARTMENT XXXVII. Setting the table and dishes 773
  • DEPARTMENT XXXVIII. Department of Amendments and Additions 783

Molokhovets Elena Ivanovna

A gift for young housewives, or a way to reduce household expenses

Publisher: Printing house N.N. Klobukova

Place of publication: St. Petersburg.

Year of publication: 1901

Number of pages: 1052 pp.

The book “A Gift for Young Housewives or a Means to Reduce Household Expenses” is a culinary bestseller of the 19th century. First published in 1861 in Kursk, it went through more than thirty reprints at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries and has not lost its relevance today.

This unique collection of Russian cuisine recipes was originally published as a manual to help young housewives manage their households. The book contains recipes for a vegetarian and Lenten table, samples of table settings and dishes, and a description of the various supplies needed in the household.

A distinctive feature of this book, compared to previous ones, is the exact, rather than approximate, indication of the quantities of ingredients used. Guided by the goal of reducing household expenses, the author indicated in all recipes the exact proportion of all ingredients for 6 people.

A graduate of the Smolny Institute for Noble Maidens, Elena Molokhovets sought to help young housewives with a small fortune and moderate expenses to have a constantly tasty, healthy and varied lunch.


The book that will be discussed in this essay had a very happy fate. Judge for yourself - 29 publications in just over half a century, enormous popularity among various segments of the population, the most flattering and numerous responses in the press. We can safely say that the majority of “civilized” housewives of Russia in the second half of the 19th and early 20th centuries learned the wisdom of culinary art from the book by Elena Ivanovna Molokhovets “A Gift for Young Housewives or a Means for Reducing Household Expenses.”

The first edition of the book was published in 1861, and the last, 29th, in 1917. The total circulation was a record for those years - 295 thousand copies. And what’s interesting is that each subsequent edition was invariably supplemented by the author and revised. The difference between the first and latest edition is 325 pages.

For more than 40 years, this culinary bestseller has been unrivaled. Many authors tried to imitate E. Molokhovets, to surpass her, but invariably all these attempts ended in failure.

During the Soviet period, neither this nor other books by E. Molokhovets (and her literary heritage is quite large) were published. And her name was lost in the huge stream of cookbooks that were published over more than 70 years.

Those lucky people who inherited this book from their great-grandmothers are rightfully proud of the ancient tome and keep it as the greatest value. And the point is not even that the book is valuable in itself, since it was published in the last century. Anyone who has at least once become acquainted with this publication was surprised to note its modernity and practical value.

Yes, many of the products that Molokhovets writes about have completely or partially disappeared from our table; the oven has been replaced by electric and gas stoves. All this is true, just as it is also true that truly traditional Russian cooking with its centuries-old technological techniques and food recipes that have aroused the admiration of many generations of people will never become obsolete. All this is in the books of Molokhovets and is presented at a level that not a single modern, most complete cookbook has reached.

It describes more than 2,000 different dishes with a detailed indication of all their ingredients. In addition, there are more than 1000 recipes for preparing all kinds of homemade preparations: fruit, vegetables, meat, cookies, jams, liqueurs, wines, cheeses, vinegars, etc. Special sections describe a vegetarian table, as well as lenten dishes. Of undoubted interest are materials on table setting and dishes, a detailed list of kitchen utensils and accessories for the dining and tea table.

Even this cursory, far from complete list of the book’s contents is quite enough to consider it as an encyclopedia of Russian culinary art.

When you leaf through a book, you involuntarily become imbued with complete confidence in everything that is written in it. The author talks about his subject in such detail and knowledgeably. There is no neglect of little things here - everything is important.

Of course, Molokhovets’ recommendations for determining the quality of food products are also of interest to the modern reader. “The study of culinary art,” writes Elena Ivanovna, “should begin with provisions and mainly meat and fish, as the most consumed products and at the same time difficult to recognize by slow-witted housewives.”

Here, for example, are some of her recommendations for recognizing the quality of meat. Good beef should be neither pale scarlet nor deep red, because the former is a sign of disease, and the latter indicates that the animal was not killed, but died with all the blood retained, or that it was suffering from an acute fever.

Good meat should have little or no odor. After standing for a day or so, it should not give off a stream of liquid or become covered with moisture, on the contrary, its surface should remain dry.

To find out whether the beef is fresh or not, you just need to buy litmus paper, consisting of pink and blue leaves. If you put a blue leaf on beef, it turns red. This is a sign that the meat is not fresh, that acid has already formed in it. If you attach a pink leaf to the beef and it turns blue, it is a sign that the meat is completely fresh.

More often we deal with frozen pieces of beef and pork. And for this case, Molokhovets has recommendations. “Meat bought frozen,” she warns, “should be in the kitchen. Just wash it before using it, but it should melt in the pan during cooking or frying, but not before.

You must be careful not to buy frozen, but thawed meat. You can recognize it in the following way - here we recommend the reader to be especially careful. - The color of the thawed one is bright or brick red. The cut surface is smooth and extremely moist. When touched, such meat richly wets the fingers. When pressed with a finger, it goes deeper into the meat as if into dough and leaves behind a hole that does not fill by itself, as is done in fresh meat.

If you put such meat on a dish, then after some time a puddle of liquid the color of scarlet blood will form around the meat..."

But here we would like to draw the reader’s attention to something else, namely, to the detail of the presentation. The quote we have given is just a small excerpt from all the instructions that Molokhovets gives on determining the good quality of meat.

There is a lot in the book useful tips on using all kinds of products. Here are some of them.

The healthiest and most nutritious thing in the broth is the protein, which is removed from the broth in the form of foam and thrown away, but it is done poorly - it is better to pour it into a separate saucepan, boil it separately, over low heat; at lunch, pour it into a plate of soup intended for the weak and anemic, but it is better not to skim off the foam at all and before lunch just strain the broth through a strainer.

To color the broth, you need to wipe one onion, along with the husk, cut it in half and fry it all around on a hot stove, but be careful not to burn it. Then put it in the broth and cook it. To color the broth, burnt sugar, or mushroom broth, or just one onion peel is also used. Along with the onions, for taste, it is necessary to fry carrots, parsley and celery on the stove in the same way (celery - V.K.).

Before serving, the borscht should be colored with juice from raw grated beets, with which you boil once.

Every soup and roast that is boiled, baked, fried or stewed must first be put on high heat, and then fried or cooked over lower heat.

When beef is stewed in a pan, you need to turn it over more often, then, while lifting it, stir the sauce with the roots and bread with a spoon so that the roast does not burn. If it burns, then immediately remove the beef, cut off the burnt part, pour the sauce into another bowl, clean and wash the pan, and then pour everything into it again for further frying, adding broth.

When frying: cutlets, steak, zraz, etc., you need to heat a frying pan, brown the meat, in a frying pan or in a saucepan, and then add oil so that it browns on all sides, and then finish frying over low heat, turning over and pouring over the dripping juice.

Also, the roast, coated with oil and adding 2-3 tablespoons of water, should be placed on a baking sheet immediately in a hot oven so that it is fried in a circle, and then fried in a lower heat, pouring with the dripping juice every 10 minutes and piercing from top to bottom with two lardons or a fork. This is the whole secret of a good roast; You also need to be careful not to overcook it.

If the fish is cooked for fish soup, then it must be immersed in cold water. If it is cooked for serving under sauce or for mayonnaise, then it is lowered into a boiling decoction with roots, onions, bay leaves, pepper and salt.

When the crayfish are boiled, wash the remaining shells, dry them, and grind them into crayfish oil. When boiling crayfish, they must be immersed in steep, salty boiling water with dill.

Boiled potatoes, as well as boiled cereals and baked apples intended to be pureed, should be grated hot, through a grater, chalk, or through a sieve, because then it is easier to grate them and it is more controversial.

To fry onions, you need to melt the butter in a saucepan, add the peeled and finely chopped onion, stirring, and fry it to a certain extent, depending on the dish it is intended for. But since not everyone likes onions, after chopping them, you can wrap them in a muslin, wash them under the tap with cold water, squeezing them hard, and then use them.

Fresh, that is, very young roots, such as carrots, parsley, and potatoes are not suitable for basic beef broth; you need to put in the old ones, which, after boiling in broth, take them out before leaving and replace them with fresh ones, boiled separately in advance in broth. Hulled fresh peas should never be boiled with other vegetables, but separately in broth or salted water, drained in a colander and ready to be poured into the broth, adding the broth to taste, because its taste is very strong and can drown out the taste of all other vegetables. . Fresh cucumbers for salad are peeled with a knife and then chopped into slices in a shredder or sharp knife.

If potatoes are boiled so that the broth can be used in soup, as it adds sweetness, then it is dipped into a small amount of strained and cooled broth. If you need juicy potatoes, then dip them in salted boiling water.

When breaking eggs, you should always break them over a separate cup, see if it is fresh or not, and if it is completely fresh, then separate the whites from the whites, and the yolks from the yolks.

Yolks intended for puddings, cakes, etc., are ground in a wooden bowl until white, with finely sifted refined sugar, in a warm place, i.e. in the room.

Egg whites, as well as thick cream, are whipped into a thick foam in a cool place. It is best to keep them on ice or snow before churning. Beat on a plate with a flat metal beater or a wooden fork. Always start knocking lightly and slowly, then harder and harder.

If the rice is being cooked for a puree soup, so you need rice water, then the washed rice is placed in cold water and boiled until it is softened.

If you need rice for puddings, for chicken, in broth, etc., then wash it, blanch it in salted boiling water, drain it, put the rice in fresh boiling water or milk, and cook.

If needed lemon juice, then you need to cut the lemon in half, squeeze the juice out of it with your hand, but not with a machine, since it crushes even the whitest skin, which has bitterness. Immediately remove the grains and then carefully strain the juice through a strainer or cloth, since the smallest, almost imperceptible grain is enough to spoil the entire dish, so strong is the bitterness contained in them. You must beware of using lemons with greenish pulp and a lot of grains in your food, because these are, for the most part, wild lemons, bitter, and do not add the slightest flavor to the food.

When serving lemon for tea, boiling water from a samovar is poured over the entire lemon to wash it of dirt and create a stronger aroma.

If you need the apples to be boiled, you need to take sour varieties, and if you need them not to boil, choose sweet ones.

If you need to remove the core of the apples, take it out first and then peel it, otherwise the apple may fall apart.

Every food is tasty if served freshly cooked or fried, so the general rule is to carefully schedule lunch time so that the fried or boiled food is served immediately and does not sit on the stove for a long time.

Dishes should be, in size, consumed in accordance with the amount of food, otherwise it will also turn out ugly.

Beware of over-salting, anyone can add salt to themselves, but sometimes it is impossible to correct over-salting, so it is best to have boiled salted water prepared for soups and sauces.

If flour is mixed with water, or milk, or some other liquid, then you should not pour the flour into the liquid, but pour the liquid little by little into the flour, rubbing it until smooth.

After removing the pie from the oven, you should never cover it with a towel, because this makes the crust soft and tasteless. To avoid catching a cold, bake it on time and then, until vacation, it is better to leave it in the oven, with the doors open.

A way to find out the mixture of water in milk. You need to lower a steel spoke into it. If the milk is not diluted, then a drop of milk will remain at the end of the knitting needle, but if it is diluted with water, then the knitting needle will be completely clean.

If potatoes are served for breakfast or lunch, then, after peeling and washing them, cook them in a separate saucepan in a small amount of salted water, and then pour this broth into soup or fish soup. In this case, do not add salt before the soup, so as not to oversalt it. Good potatoes give it a hint of sweetness.

If there is a piece of pudding left from lunch from a loaf, sago or semolina, etc., then cut it into thin slices with a sharp knife and, just before breakfast, fry it in butter in a clean frying pan.

If there is some semolina or millet porridge left, you can make pancakes from it.

If rice is cooked, then the broth can be saved. Those with weak stomachs can drink it, sweetened with raspberry jam. This cooled broth is also good for wiping your hands and face, as it softens the skin.

Either heat the remaining dry rolls in the oven for tea, or use them for roll pudding. Or, cut them into slices and brown them in the oven for tea and coffee. Or dry them, crush them and store them in a jar for sprinkling molds, cutlets, etc. Or, after soaking them in milk or water, put them in cutlets.

If yolks are used, such as for sabayon or mustard sauce, etc., then from the remaining whites you need to prepare either an airy pie, or meringue, etc., on the same day.

When preparing compote from fresh apples, cut off the apple skin and immediately put it in 1-2 glasses of water, in which it boils with sugar. This decoction may be useful for coughing for someone in the home.

When boiling prunes for compote, drain the broth separately, using it as medicine, and transfer the prunes into the prepared syrup, in which it is boiled again.

If the butter begins to spoil, wash it, add salt, add carrot juice or melt it into Russian butter.

If there is dry cheese left, grate it and sprinkle on pasta, croutons, pies and buns.

Of course, these and many other tips from Molokhovets’ book are still relevant today. By the way, we have repeatedly encountered them in many books and magazines.

Readers will probably also be interested in reading Molokhovets’ recommendations for table setting. Moreover, modern authors do not spoil us with this information.

Here is one of the options for setting the dinner table.

In the middle of the quadrangular table there is a rotating tray with 4, 6 or 8 flat salad bowls inserted into it, with different snacks. In the center of this tray is the same salad bowl with thin slices of bread.

On four sides, in the center of the table, at the edges of the table, four piles of plates, 3 or 6 pieces each, are placed.

Napkins folded into quadrangles are placed on two opposite corners of the table, one on? an inch below the middle of the other.

Forks and knives are placed on the other two opposite corners, touching only their upper ends and forming sharp triangles, also one pair lower than the other, to the end of the table, representing a kind of arrow.

Between the revolving tray and the plates, vodka is placed with glasses, in kegs, jugs or decanters.

Between the carafes of vodka, put butter, laid out from the mold, on plates or butter dishes.

Note. Table setting and decoration can be varied, depending on the significance of the dinner, the number of guests, and therefore the size of the table, as well as the time of year and day. Let's take a formal dinner as an example.

On a table covered with a snow-white tablecloth, a silver or glass shelf with fruits, sweets and flowers is placed in the middle. These shelves can be very luxurious and expensive, but they can also be replaced with cheap ones by arranging them as follows.

Take three, more or less simple, glass or crystal vases, one smaller than the other, but certainly of the same type. Place them one on top of the other.

Cover the base of the lower vase with artificial or fresh flowers, roots up, so that the flowers lie on the table, forming an even round plateau. The length of the branches should be 3-4 inches, tie the roots to the stem.

Tie the same flowers to the top of the same stem, but two and 2.5 inches long, with the roots down, so that both the upper and lower roots are hidden in the flowers, tied with velvet or a burgundy-colored ribbon ending in a bunch of loops.

Place oranges and tangerines on the lower vase, arranging them with descending branches of grapes.

Place apples, pears, bergamots, etc. on the second vase, also placing them with descending branches of grapes.

Place sweets in the third vase.

Pour water into the top vase, which should be deep, in the form of a wide glass, and place in it a bouquet of flowers from white or purple lilacs, lilies of the valley, a variety of fresh flowers with hanging branches and greenery, or, in the absence of them, insert a bouquet of very nice artificial flowers.

On both sides of this shelf, along the table, another one, two, or three colored vases with flowers are placed, one lower than the other.

If dinner is given in the evening light, then on both sides of the shelf there are candelabra with candles or lamps, and then a vase of flowers, depending on the length of the table.

In front of each cutlery, against the plate, behind the glasses, there is also a kind of vase or tall glass with a bouquet of fresh flowers. These bouquets are placed either in front of everyone, or only in front of the newlyweds, if the dinner is being held in their honor, or only in front of the birthday girl, in a word, in front of those in whose honor the dinner is being given.

There are as many flat plates placed around the table as there are expected guests, who, if possible, should not be crowded, but should be allocated an arshin of space for each person.

A napkin is placed under each plate, folded into an even quadrangle and ironed into another triangle; one corner is placed under the plate, and the other, with a rich monogram, comes down from the table.

On the left side of each plate there are small plates with bread: one penny peklevnik, one penny French. a bun and a slice of black bread. The pies served with the soup are also placed on the same plate.

A knife and fork are placed on the right side of the plate and on top of them, diagonally, a spoon.

At large dinners, crystal or silver stands for knives are not placed, because it is customary to leave dirty spoons, forks and knives on plates after each meal to change them, so that only clean things are always placed on the tablecloth.

In front of the plate, glasses, glasses and a glass of different sizes are placed.

If not for one, then for every two devices place a small crystal salt shaker with fine salt or a double salt shaker with salt and pepper.

The width of the table, on both sides of the shelf with fruit, are placed vessels with bone, silver or gilded fruit knives inserted into them, with the stems facing up.

Small jugs of water are placed on both sides of these vessels; the more of them, the better, as long as they are the same size.

In the middle of the table, between the vases, bottles or jugs of wine are placed, in pairs, as desired.

Recently, all sweet foods have become fashionable, even ice cream, to be eaten with a fork rather than a spoon. This fashion will probably end soon, because it is not only inconvenient, but also harmful, forcing many ice cream lovers to swallow it too cold, because when melts slightly, then they won’t get anything.

Near the doors from where food is brought in, there is a table with clean plates and cutlery, as well as a separate table for beer, kvass, honey and various wines.

The footman must quickly remove plates with dirty spoons, knives and forks, replacing them immediately with clean ones.

Always serve food from the left side, starting with the ladies and ending with the gentlemen.

Wines are served to the table: champagne frozen, Bourgogne and Lafite warmed, and the rest cold.

Wines are heated by placing bottles in hot sand before dinner, and champagne is kept in metal vases with ice.

It is necessary to uncork deftly, without noise and without splashing those sitting.

After the sweet dish, thinly sliced ​​cheese is served, followed by fruit and sweets.

Through? an hour after dessert, when they have already left the table, black coffee is served without any cookies and washed down with a tiny glass of buttery sweet liqueur.

Well, now it’s logical to move on to the recipes for foods that E. Molokhovets treated her contemporaries to.

Selyanka fish

Issue: 3 f. assorted fish, 1/8 - 1/4 lb. butter, 1.5 tablespoons flour, 1 onion, 10 olives, fresh or sauerkraut with? t., 10 champignons, 2 pickled cucumbers, bay leaf, pepper, cucumber brine 1–2 tbsp.,?-1 tbsp. fresh sour cream or heavy cream.

Liquid fish soup is prepared as follows: finely chop 1 onion, fry in 2 tablespoons of quick oil, add 1.5 tablespoons of flour, lightly fry, dilute with water, put three pounds of raw, chopped fish into small pieces, such as sturgeon, beluga and whitefish, all in an even part, add bay leaf, pepper, 10 olives, 10 finely chopped champignons, 2 pickles and a little fresh or sour cabbage, previously doused with boiling water. Boil several times until the fish is cooked, add cucumber brine to taste, boil, add sour cream, sprinkle with herbs, serve.

Fish soup with pickles

Issue: 3 f. small fish: ruffes, minnows, etc.? Art. cucumber pickle, a spoonful of flour,?-1 tbsp. sour cream, 5 pickled cucumbers, parsley leaves, 5-10 peppercorns, 1-3 pcs. bay leaf.

Boil broth with roots and spices, a little salt and 3 pounds of small fish, such as ruffs, minnows, etc.; Boil the fish completely, strain; pour into the broth? cup cucumber brine, boil. Dilute a spoonful of flour little by little with cold water, grind so that there are no lumps, dilute with the soup, strain, pour into the common soup while stirring, add? - 1 glass of fresh sour cream, sliced, peeled cucumbers, a little parsley leaves, boil, serve. Instead of small fish, fish soup can be cooked from large fish, which can be served in soup, cut into pieces, or served separately as a second dish.

Potato soup without meat

Issue:? carrots, ? leek, ? cellerea, ? parsley, (onion), 5-10 pcs. green English pepper, 1–2 pcs. bay leaf, 1–2 tablespoons of Chukhon oil,? French bread, ? garn. potatoes, ? spoons of flour, ?-1 tbsp. sour cream or? Art. cream and 2 yolks, herbs.

Boil broth from the roots, strain, add potatoes and half a French loaf without crust,? spoons of flour, ground with a spoon of butter, you can add half an onion fried in oil, boil, rub through a sieve. Break 2 yolks with? glasses of cream, strain, dilute with hot broth, stirring vigorously, pour into the general broth, heat until very hot, add salt, serve.

Instead of cream and yolks, you can put sour cream or herbs.

Soup of various fresh berries with sour cream and wine

Issue: 3 f. berries, 1 tbsp. sour cream, 1.5–2 tbsp. lump sugar, 1 glass of wine.

Rub 6 cups of sorted strawberries, raspberries, currants or lingonberries through a sieve and add? or? pound of sugar, pour in a glass of the freshest sour cream, a glass of wine, 3-4 glasses of boiled water, stir, heat, and do not boil, serve with crackers.

Apple jellied meat

Give out: 12 large apples, cinnamon, lemon zest, a spoonful of French wine, 2 bottles. red wine, lemon juice, a spoonful of raspberry or cherry jam? up to 1 pound of sugar, 3 eggs, 1 five-kopeck roll.

Take ten large apples, peel them, cut out the core, boil in three glasses of water, adding cinnamon, lemon zest, a spoonful of French wine and a little grated bread. When the apples are boiled, rub them through a sieve into a soup bowl, strain the water in which the apples were boiled into it, cool, pour in two bottles of red wine, juice from one lemon, a spoonful of raspberry or currant jam for taste, sir? pounds of fine sugar, stir everything together as best you can. This jellied meat is sometimes served with dumplings: peel 2-3 apples, grate them, pour in a spoonful of red wine, a little crushed cinnamon, lemon zest with? glasses of sugar, three eggs and enough stale grated bread to form a fairly thick dough, as usual for dumplings. Pour a little prepared cold soup, boil it, drop a teaspoon of dumplings into it; when they float to the surface, set aside, cool, pour into the rest of the cold soup, and serve.

Stuffed turnip cabbage

Issue: 2–3 f. kohlrabi, ? f. butter, roast or 2 kidneys, a little beef fat, or bone marrow, salt, a little pepper, ? French white bread, 2 spoons of sour cream. (2 eggs, if you want).

Peel, wash, cut off a slice on top, carefully select the middle, chop it finely, fry with a spoonful of butter, add finely chopped roast veal or kidneys, a little beef fat or marrow from the bones, grated and toasted bread in butter, 2 chopped eggs, salt , a little pepper, 2 spoons of sour cream, mix everything together. Stuff the kohlrabi with this, cover with a cut slice, tie with a thread, place in a pan one next to the other, pour in broth or water, cook until soft. Before leaving, remove the threads; When serving, pour over the sauce in which it was cooked.

Potato minced meat

Give out: 2 shots. herrings, ? French buns, ? Art. sour cream, 1.5 tablespoons of butter, 3-4 grains of plain grains, 3-4 grains of English. pepper, 1 Big apple, 1 onion, 6–8 pcs. potatoes, nutmeg, 2 eggs.

Soak 2 Scottish herrings in water or better yet in milk, remove the skin, remove the bones, add a finely chopped onion, fried in a spoonful of butter,? glasses of sour cream, 2 eggs,? French bread, soaked and squeezed, 1 grated raw apple, 1 full glass of boiled and mashed potatoes, pepper and English pepper, nutmeg, mix, put in a tin or silver saucepan, buttered and sprinkled with breadcrumbs, and in the oven on? hours.

Serve in the same saucepan.

Potatoes under bechemel

Issue: ? garnet of potatoes, 3/8 lb. oils? Art. flour, a bottle of milk, 2 eggs, herbs, ? pound of cheese.

Wash the potatoes, boil, peel and cut into slices. Grease a tin or silver saucepan with oil, put a row of potatoes, pieces of butter on top, sprinkle with grated cheese, then again a row of potatoes, butter and cheese; pour in bechemel, i.e. stir 1/8 pound of butter with? cups of flour, dilute with 2.5 cups of milk, boil several times, add salt, beat in two eggs, add some herbs if you like, pour over the potatoes, put in the oven to bake.

Can I put it in potatoes? pound thinly sliced ​​ham.

Issue 1.5 f. soft beef, 4 tablespoons finely chopped onion, salt, pepper, bay leaf, ? Art. sour cream, a spoonful of butter,? garnet of potatoes, ? f. bread or? Art. flour.

Cut a piece of beef from the sirloin or from the thick edge into 6-9 pieces, beat with a wooden pestle, and then with the blunt side of a knife, add salt, and leave for two hours. Spread the bottom of the pan with oil, add bay leaf, English pepper, then slices of beef, sprinkling each piece with finely chopped onion and flour or black, grated stale bread, add two spoons of water, simmer under the lid until tender, shaking the pan so as not to burn , and adding broth. To serve, place on a plate and garnish with boiled potatoes. Put in the sauce with? glasses of sour cream.

Roast goose stuffed with porridge

Give out: goose, salt, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 1 leek, 1 onion, 4-6 dried mushrooms, green parsley and dill, 1 spoon of oil, 1.25 tbsp. Smolensk cereals or 2 tbsp. buckwheat, 1 egg,? spoons of flour.

Clean the young goose, rub the outside and inside with salt, carefully remove the spinal bone. Pour water over the bones and other cut parts, add roots and dried mushrooms. When this broth has boiled down, strain it, finely chop the mushrooms, mix 2 glasses of this mushroom broth with chopped mushrooms, a spoonful of butter and a little finely chopped green parsley and dill, boil, add immediately, stirring vigorously, Smolensk cereals, ground with one egg and dried. Keep this porridge on high heat for 10 minutes; When the porridge thickens and boils down, stir it with a spoon so that there are no lumps, add salt, stuff the goose with it, and fry it in the oven. Add flour to the sauce, dilute with broth, boil, skim off excess fat, and pour over the goose.

Or stuff it with cool buckwheat porridge, and in this case give out a goose and 1 pound, i.e. 2 1/8 cups, buckwheat and 4-6 mushrooms. If the goose is not fatty, add oil, and if the goose is very fatty, then you also need to cut off excess fat from it, which is used for frying donuts, etc.

Pike with sauerkraut

Rinse and boil 2 pounds shredded cabbage (very thick) in water until tender; Meanwhile, clean the pike, weighing 2-3 pounds, separate the flesh from the bones, sprinkle with a little fine salt, cut into small pieces, roll in egg and breadcrumbs or flour and fry a little in 1 spoon of butter; then smear a mold or deep clay dish with oil, put on a layer of cabbage, put a few pieces of butter, grate a little cheese, then a layer of pieces of fried pike, pour sour cream on top, and on top of it again cabbage, butter, cheese, pike, sour cream, and so on until end; at the very top there should be a layer of cabbage, covered with pieces of butter and grated cheese, sprinkled with breadcrumbs; Having laid everything out in this way, put it in the oven for an hour. Only 2-3 tablespoons of butter, 3-4 crackers, a glass of sour cream,?-? pound cheese, 2 pounds cabbage, 2 eggs.

Carp, boiled Jewish style

Issue: 4 f. carp, 1 tbsp. beer, a bottle of vinegar, pepper, cloves,? Art. crushed crackers, ? Art. cinnamon, lemon zest powder with 1/3 teaspoon.

Cleaned carp, from 4-5 pounds, cut into pieces, put in a deep dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a little cloves and pour in enough vinegar so that the fish is almost covered, turning often, let sit with? hours; then dissolve 1 spoon of butter in a saucepan, add 1 glass of beer, put the fish with the vinegar in which it was soaked and about a cup of crushed crackers, cover and cook until tender; before leaving, place the fish on a dish, and add 1 handful of well-washed currants to the sauce and? teaspoon of grated lemon zest, let it boil and pour over the fish.

The fish dish is incredibly tasty, especially sterlet with white table wine

Issue: 3–4 f. fish, wine with? - 1 bottle, 1/8 lb. oil, 1 lemon.

Take 3-4 pounds of fish, preferably sterlet, wash it thoroughly, dry it with a towel, cut it into pieces, put it in a saucepan, pour white table wine on the fish, no matter what, just not strong, enough to cover the fish halfway, put Chukhonsky freshest butter 1/8 pound and a whole lemon, cut into pieces, like apples are cut, after removing the grains, cover the saucepan with a lid, light the alcohol under it and through? In about an hour this wonderful dish is ready. This is how sturgeon, beluga, pike perch and other fish that have few bones are prepared.

Herring cutlets

Issue: 4–5 simple, or Dutch. herring, 1 fr. white bread, 2 eggs, 3-4 onions, 2 tablespoons of butter, add 2-3 crackers to the cut crust.

Soak the herrings, remove the bones, finely chop them, put 1-3 finely chopped herrings and in? a spoonful of oil, fried onions, 1 french. loaf, soaked and squeezed, or 12 pcs. boiled potatoes, 2 eggs, 2-3 tablespoons of sour cream, pepper, a little butter, stir, make cutlets, roll in egg and breadcrumbs, fry in butter.

Instead of buns and potatoes, you can put boiled finely chopped beef.

Yeast dough suitable in cold water

Issue: 2 f. flour, ? f. butter, 6 eggs, 3 gold. or 1 kop. dry yeast, tbsp. 2 milk (? tbsp. sugar).

Dilute 3 spools (125 g) of dry yeast in the evening with warm water, add 2 teaspoons of flour so that there is only 1 glass, leave overnight, let it rise; the next day in the morning take this glass of the most liquid yeast, 1 glass of milk,? pound of melted butter, add milk so that there is only 1 glass, add 2 pounds of flour, put 5 large eggs, i.e., a glass of eggs, add a spoonful of salt, knock it all out as best as possible, knocking out the dough for an hour, transfer into a napkin, tie it so that the dough has room to rise twice, lower the napkin with the dough into the tub cold water.

When the dough floats to the top after a few hours, knock it out; from half the dough, make a pie, stuff it, let it rise on a sheet, brush with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and put in the oven for ? - 1 hour.

Excellent yeast pie dough

In the evening, take 2 glasses of the coldest water, 3 spools of dry yeast,? pound of Russian butter, mashed until white, 1 egg, a spoonful of salt and 2 pounds of flour, dissolve and knead, put on the table, cover with a napkin. When it rises, make a pie.

Potato Pie

For 2 pounds of potatoes mashed through a sieve, put 1 pound of flour, 3 tablespoons of yeast, 4 whole eggs and one cup of dissolved Chukhon butter, mix everything together well, roll out, make 2 cakes, put one in a frying pan, minced meat on it, and the other cover the top and place in the oven.

Russian kulebyaka with fish

Provide for 6 people per dough: 1.5 lbs. flour, 1 tbsp. milk, 3/8 lb. butter, 3 yolks, 2 ash. dry yeast.

For minced meat: 1.5 lbs. pike perch, 1 onion, 1 lb. sturgeon,? f. salmon, 1.25 tbsp. Smolensk, cereal, 1 egg,? f. oils, dill.

Prepare the dough: for 1.5 pounds of flour put 3/8 pound of Chukhon butter, 3 yolks, 1 cup of milk, 1 spoon of good yeast,? teaspoon salt. First dissolve the dough, as usual, in milk and yeast; when it rises, add butter, eggs, salt, the rest of the flour and let it rise again. Then prepare the filling: chop 1.5 pounds of pike perch, select the bones; Fry the chopped pieces in a saucepan, in a spoon of oil with 1 chopped onion, fresh chopped or dried dill, chop everything together with the fish. Take 1.25 cups of Smolensk cereal, grind it with 1 egg, dry it, rub through a sieve. Boil 1.25 cups of water with? pound of butter, when it boils, add the cereal, stirring vigorously, add salt, put in the oven for a while until slightly browned; then mix it as best as possible with the minced fish. Prepare 1 pound of sturgeon in advance, cut into slices and? pound of salmon. Make a long or round kulebyaka, put half of the minced meat with porridge in the middle, chopped sturgeon and salmon on top of it, the rest of the porridge with minced meat on top, pinch and give? an hour to rise; brush with egg and place in the oven. This is a real Russian kulebyaka.

Potato pate with meat

Issue: 3 f. beef, a full deep plate of raw potatoes, 2-3 onions, 3-5 pcs. carnations, 3/8 lb. butter, 6–8 crackers, French bread, 3 eggs, 1 tbsp. milk, a spoonful of cheese.

Cut 3 pounds of tender beef into thin pieces and beat them as best you can with a wooden pestle. Cut potatoes boiled in salted water into thin slices; take a deep dish, spread the bottom with butter, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, put shredded onions on the bottom, then a row of slices of beef, sprinkle with salt, pepper and crushed cloves, again with onions, then a row twice as thick as potato slices, on which put pieces of butter, then again beef, onion, pepper, salt and cloves, and so on until everything is included, then take a French roll soaked in milk, knead it like dough, beat in 3 eggs, a little salt, and cover the whole dish with it, grease with butter, sprinkle breadcrumbs with cheese and bake in a fairly hot oven.

Lemon soufflé

Give out: 7 eggs,? f. sugar, lemon or cinnamon zest, 1/8 tbsp. kar-tof. flour, 1–1.5 tbsp. jam.

Grind 7 yolks until white with 1 cup of fine sugar, put lemon zest or 5 drops of lemon oil and 7 beaten yolks, add 1/8 cup of potato or maize flour, stir, transfer to a deep dish, on the bottom of which you can put 1–1.5 cups jam, place in oven for 10 minutes; serve on the same dish.

The waffles are excellent

Issue: ? Art. oils, ? Art. cream, 5 eggs, ? Art. flour, 6 teaspoons of sugar.

Take? a glass of melted fresh butter, slightly warm, 5 yolks, 6 teaspoons of fine sugar, rub everything together until it turns white; then pour in? glasses of cream, stir well, add? cups of coarse flour, stir until smooth and, when you need to start baking waffles, put 5 beaten egg whites into the dough, stir, but do not stir the whites.

Grind 1/8 pound of butter until white, mix with 3-6 eggs, add 2 cups of flour, dilute with 2 cups of milk, stir until smooth; melt a spoonful of butter in a frying pan, heat until hot, pour in the prepared mass, place in a hot oven for 20-30 minutes, when the drachena is baked and browned, serve it immediately, sprinkled with sugar. The whites can be whipped into foam.

6 pounds flour, 5 glasses milk,? cups of good yeast, dissolve, having previously warmed the milk to steam warmth or a little warmer; when the dissolved dough rises, knead it, add 10 yolks, 5 whole eggs, 1 pound of dissolved Chukhonsky butter, 2-3 teaspoons of sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt, finely crushed cardamom? a teaspoon, 10 drops of lemon oil or a lot of vanilla drops, or 10 drops of rose oil, one glass each of raisins and almonds, of which leave some for decoration, knead everything together and let rise; the dough should be quite thick so that it does not stick to the table at all; when the dough has risen well, begin to crumble it and at the same time light the oven; Having made the cakes, leave them to rise in a warm place until the oven is completely ready; there is no need to rush to plant the Easter cakes until they rise, which sometimes takes quite a long time, since the thick dough is difficult to rise; Before placing in the oven, decorate with raisins, whole and chopped almonds, brushed with broken egg and milk. Almost everyone likes these cakes; the dough is completely different from bakery dough. Easter cake with saffron is made in exactly the same manner, but then you don’t need to put cardamom, but put it in this proportion? a teaspoon of saffron, ground into powder, which must first be dried in a very warm oven, wrapped well in paper so as not to dry out, and ground with oil. You can add or subtract saffron to taste.

A quick cake.

Grind 3/8 pound butter until white, beat in 2 eggs,? Art. sugar, zest and juice from? lemon? pound, i.e. 1.5 tbsp. flour. Mix all this as best as possible, spread it on paper, smeared with oil and placed on an iron sheet, insert it into the oven; when half ready, cut into squares with a sharp knife and return to the oven; or knead the dough thicker, roll it out, cut it into different shapes and then put it in the oven.

Easter ordinary

For a medium-sized mold, take 7-8 pounds of fresh cottage cheese, put it under a press for a day, then rub it through a sieve, put 1 cup of the freshest sour cream in it,? pound fresh butter, 2 teaspoons salt, s? glass and even more sugar to taste, mix everything as best as possible so that there is not a single lump, put it in a wooden form, lined inside with a clean thin napkin, put a board on top and heavy stone, after a day, carefully place on a dish.

Early ripening liqueur

Place a full pot of berries, namely: cherries, black currants or raspberries, pour good purified vodka over the berries, tie with sugar paper, which is pierced in several places with a rod or fork; when the rye bread is taken out of the oven, put this pot in it and leave it in the oven until the berries are completely cooked, which can be seen by their completely brown color and when the cherries become so soft that the seeds will fall off at the slightest pressure, then place the berries on a sieve, let the juice drain into a bowl, but do not crush the berries on the sieve, but only carefully shake off the sieve; then sweeten the drained juice, depending on how you like it? before? pound of sugar per bottle. This liqueur can be ready in one day. The berries that remain on the sieve can be poured with water and distilled in a cube, then this water is suitable for vinegar, into which in this case there is no need to pour vodka.

St. Petersburg. Printing house N.N. Klobukova, Pryazhka, no. 3. 1901 twenty-second edition, corrected and expanded. 180th thousand. Reprint reproduction. MMP "Polikom" 1991. Pp. 1-1056

Book and culinary reflections in 3 parts
Part 1

In 1991, the publishing house MMP "Polikom" incredibly pleased aesthetes of haute cuisine by releasing a reprint edition of "A Gift for Young Housewives, or a Means for Reducing Household Expenses" by Elena Molokhovets.

The current bookstores with numerous cookbooks “from Molokhovets” no longer bring such joy - adapted to the modern language, lost pounds and spools - they have lost the charm of deep antiquity and do not stand out in any way in the general mass of such books. To be fair, it is worth noting that one exception was found in my search: this year the Vremya publishing house also released a full-fledged volume of “The Gift,” but neither on the publisher’s website nor in the online store I was able to look under the cover to find out - reprint or not? And therefore I return to the publication of the MMP “Polykom”.

So, culinary aesthetes rejoiced, the curious rubbed their hands with joy: now they will read with their own eyes the famous advice of Molokhovets: “if guests unexpectedly come to you, send the girl to the cellar, let her bring cold veal and strawberries with cream. It will be quite decent." As for young housewives...

It is unlikely that in 1991, revived after 70 years of oblivion, the “Gift” of Molokhovets had applied significance in the art of cooking. In the ninety-first, young housewives improved in preparing porridge from an ax and cooking soup from processed cheese “Friendship”. However, even then there were sorcerers who could create a luxurious dish from simple pollock based on the recipe “Sterlet, incredibly tasty, with white table wine.” It was for them that Elena Ivanovna gave explanations: “fish that have few bones are prepared in this way, such as sturgeon, beluga, pike perch, whitefish, trout.” Why not continue with pollock?

“A Gift for Young Housewives” was first published in 1861, was regularly republished for more than half a century and went through at least 28 (1914) editions, adding new recipes and new sections. So, for example, in section XXXVIII “Correction of creeping errors and inaccuracies, additions and additions,” Molokhovets asks housewives to “correct all these errors that I have noted ... in your book, and mark new dishes at the end of the corresponding sections.” The reprint of the twenty-second edition (see photo) is a weighty “brick” of a thousand pages and contains more than four thousand recipes.

But perhaps the most striking evidence of the popularity of this book in the pre-revolutionary household was the wave of imitations and forgeries that accompanied each reprint of Molokhovets’s works - “ New gift to young housewives”, “A complete gift to young housewives”, “A real gift to young housewives” by the vague Morokhovotsy and Malokhovosky. But we know that a counterfeit coin is in circulation only when the original is backed by gold.

Molokhovets really presented the hostesses with a precious gift. Although the collection of culinary recipes is not her invention, and “The Gift” is far from the first and not the last cookbook in Russia, it was Molokhovets who for the first time (!) “in all the dishes included, prescribed, if possible, a precisely defined proportion of all their constituent parts , proportion for 6 people...” Not only meat, butter, flour, etc., but even water and milk. This measure, which has so far been little accepted among us, will seem strange, even ridiculous and inconvenient to implement, especially for the simple class, i.e. for our servants, in terms of cooking. Meanwhile, this measure is necessary when issuing an accurate portion of provisions prescribed in the book. Let’s take broth as an example.”

Write it down. “To prepare it for 6-8 people, you need to choose a saucepan in which the soup is constantly cooked, pour 6 full deep plates of water into it, put 2-4 pounds of beef, measure the height of the water with a clean, smoothly planed shelf, make a sign on the shelf, then add water, cook the broth over low heat, then adding salt, roots and spices, for at least 3 hours; Boil it down so that, just before the holiday, there is as much of it as prescribed on the stick. The broth prepared this way will be as strong as this amount of meat can make it.

Meanwhile, it often happens differently, namely: they take beef in portions, pour in water without measure, cover the broth with a lid, let it boil over quite high heat, shortly before lunch it turns out that the broth has boiled away - that there is not enough of it, then add water, an eye that often deceives, especially the commoner. Pouring the broth into a soup bowl, it turns out that there are not 6 or 8 bowls of broth, but 12 or even more... The broth, of course, is not tasty, weak, if the soup is with cereals, then these cereals will barely be noticeable. As a result of this, even if the hostess gives provisions for food according to this book, it can easily happen that the food will not be tasty; without knowing the real reason for this, the blame should fall on the book, although it is completely unfair...”

While reading “A Gift for Young Housewives” (some cookbooks are no less interesting to read than to cook from them), I caught myself thinking that I was comparing the main cookbook of pre-revolutionary Russia with the main cookbook of the socialist era. Still, no matter how much you sing “we are ours, we will build a new world,” no matter how much you reorganize the Workers’ and Peasants’ Inspectorate, there are still areas that are not subject to revolutionary changes, and one of them is the art of cooking.

Comparing these two books is fun. If you believe the “Book of Tasty and Healthy Food,” then “socialism freed our people from the wolfish laws of capitalism, from hunger, poverty, chronic malnutrition, from the need to adapt their needs and tastes to the most primitive range of products.” (Article “To Abundance!”, 1953 edition) And if you focus on Molokhovets’ recipes with a mind-boggling variety of products used, the problem was not in the primitive assortment, but in the cost of the “consumer basket.” “In general, prices in Russia are so varied and change so much, and most importantly, they rise so quickly for everything that it is difficult to assign even an approximate price.”

The simple-minded Molokhovets, diligently compiling registers of dinners, did not forget to compile a register for servants, which was in sharp dissonance with the menu of everyday dinners for gentlemen. Without this section, you see, the Bolsheviks would not have had to reinvent the wheel under the name “Book about tasty and healthy food.” But, as they say, you can’t erase words from a song. Why is it that ministers are offered cereal soup without meat for lunch? So what if for the “second course” there is potato porridge and roast beef. Where is the piece of meat in the soup? This is how revolutions happen.

As for the young housewives of the 1991 model, for them, I repeat that “The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food” and “A Gift for Young Housewives” seemed something akin to the magic pot from the fairy tale “The Princess and the Swineherd.” Remember? Whoever holds his hand over the smoke of this pot will find out what kind of food is being prepared in the city today. Find out, he will find out... But only by 1991, the range of products described in both books was almost impossible to find in stores.

But let's not talk about sad things, let's play instead.

Compare and try to determine which of the menus below was offered by Molokhovets for lunch to the unfinished bourgeoisie, and which “Book of Tasty and Healthy Food” was offered to the builder of communism.

1. Mixed meat okroshka. Fish fried in breadcrumbs. Fried eggplants. Vanilla cracker pudding. 2. Meat okroshka. Beef with salted mushroom sauce. Barley porridge with sour cream.

Hint from Elena Molokhovets: “When compiling a lunch menu, you must generally adhere to the following rules: 1) So that all lunches are equally satisfying, and to achieve this goal, it is necessary to distribute so that some dishes are more filling, while others are lighter. 2) Do not repeat the same product at lunch. 3) Diversify even the color of dishes, for example: if soup white, then you can’t serve chicken or fish with white sauce as a second course, but serve something with dark sauce. 4) Also ensure that two sour, or two sweet, or two cold, or two meat dishes are not served in a row.”

Guess! The winner will receive a mayonnaise recipe from the classic of Russian culinary literature - the hospitable Molokhovets!

This book opens a new series of books “Cooking. Classic publications”, which will include well-known and little-known, but significant for their time, authors and books that tried, each in their time, to generalize the experience in the culinary history of Russia and beyond. Here is what Elena Molokhovets wrote about her motivation for creating the book: “Kitchen is an art of its own, which without guidance is acquired not over the years, but through decades of inexperience, sometimes very expensive, especially for young spouses... I compiled this book exclusively for young housewives in order to provide them with an opportunity without their own experience and in a short time to gain an understanding of farming in general and thereby encourage them to engage in farming.” The book is adapted and presented in modern language and terms, while some features of that vocabulary are preserved for the flavor of past times.

On our website you can download the book “A Gift for Young Housewives” Elena Ivanovna Molokhovets for free and without registration in fb2, rtf, epub, pdf, txt format, read the book online or buy the book in the online store.

> Thematic catalog
  • Preface 3
  • SECTION I 7
  • Table of measures and weights 7
  • Table of approximate prices of different products 8
  • General rules regarding the amount of provisions, for 6 people 12
  • Table of approximate cooking times for different foods in the oven 13
  • Stovetop frying chart 14
  • Table of approximate cooking times for various foods 14
  • Table of measures of pickled food 16
  • Drawing and analysis of an ox, the quality of meat and its weight 16
  • Relative weight of different types of meat, in half an ox carcass, medium size 20
  • Recognizing meat quality 21
  • Economic Breakdown of Some Large Cuts of Beef 24
  • Saving meat 26
  • A list of various basic rules when preparing food 26
  • Eating leftovers 37
  • SECTION II 40
  • Lunch menu in 4 categories 41
  • Register of cold appetizers 87
  • SECTION III. Soups 104
  • A) Broths are transparent, yellow and red 109
  • B) White soups with flour dressing 121
  • Cabbage soup 124
  • Borsch 128
  • C) White soups with leison made from yolks and cream 133
  • D) Soups made from white meat broth with cereals and sour cream 135
  • D) Meat puree soups 136
  • E) Fish soups 150
  • G) Oil soups (i.e. without meat and fish) 160
  • H) Milk soups 165
  • I) Hot, sweet soups made from apples, beer, wine and berries 166
  • J) Cold soups 169
  • SECTION IV. Soup accessories 172
  • Croutons, croutons and tartines 172
  • Meatballs 173
  • Meat and fish quenelle (minced meat) 174
  • Olives, tomatoes 176
  • Cereals and noodles 177
  • Roots and vegetables 178
  • Dumplings 182
  • Eggs 184
  • Ears to cabbage soup 185
  • Dumplings 185
  • Pies 186
  • Pie dough 187
  • Puff pastries 192
  • Pies made from crumbly dough, chopped and made with yeast 195
  • Crumpets or donuts 198
  • Yeast pies, deep fried 198
  • Cheesecakes 100
  • Pies and loaves of pancakes 200
  • Pies-buns 201
  • Pies in tin molds and fried in batter 202
  • Minced meat in shells 203
  • Porridge for broth, cabbage soup and borscht 205
  • Croutons, aka croutons from cereals 206
  • SECTION V. Gravy or Sauce 207
  • A) Preparation of various seasonings for sauces 208
  • B) Hot, flour gravies for meat dishes 211
  • B) Hot gravies for vegetables 218
  • D) Hot gravies for hot fish and pates 219
  • E) Cold gravies for cold boiled and fried beef, suckling pig, game, poultry, ham, mayonnaise, jellied and cold fish 223
  • E) Sweet sauces for puddings, cereals, vegetables 224
  • SECTION VI. Dishes from vegetables and herbs and various side dishes for them 228
  • I group. Leguminous vegetables 228
  • II group. Herbaceous vegetables 234
  • III group. Roots 250
  • IV group. Fragrant herbs 270
  • V group. Mushrooms 272
  • SECTION VII. Beef, veal, lamb, pig, pork, hare 281
  • A) Beef 281
  • B) Veal 312
  • B) Lamb 331
  • D) Pig 339
  • D) Pork 342
  • E) Ham 346
  • G) Wild pig, chamois, venison, fallow deer 347
  • H) Hare 349
  • SECTION VIII. Poultry and game 351
  • A. Poultry 351
  • B. Game 375
  • Small game 383
  • SECTION IX. Pisces 387
  • SECTION X. Salads for roast meat and fish 438
  • SECTION XI. Pies and pates 442
  • A) Pies 442
  • B) Pates 452
  • SECTION XII. Jellied, mayonnaise and other cold dishes for lunch and breakfast 466
  • A) Jellied, roll 466
  • B) Mayonnaise 472
  • B) Vinaigrette 481
  • D) Marinated fish and poultry served for breakfast or snack 483
  • SECTION XIII. Puddings, charlottes, soufflés, air pies, etc. 484
  • A) Puddings that are boiled in a napkin 486
  • B) Steamed puddings 488
  • C) Puddings that are baked in a mold in an oven 495
  • D) Charlotte 505
  • D) Soufflé baked on a plate or in a charlotte dish 507
  • E) Air pies, which are baked and served on the same dish 508
  • G) Various sweet hot dishes that are baked and served on the same dish 510
  • H) Sweet dishes, mostly served cold 512
  • SECTION XIV. Apple dishes 516
  • SECTION XV. Pancakes, Russian pancakes, croutons. Egg dishes 520
  • A) Pancakes 520
  • B) Russian pancakes 524
  • C) Croutons aka croutons 528
  • D) Egg dishes 530
  • SECTION XVI. Sorcerers, dumplings, dumplings, vermicelli or noodles, lazanka, pasta, cheesecakes, dumplings, etc. 533
  • A) Sorcerers, dumplings, dumplings 533
  • B) Vermicelli noodles 536
  • B) Lazankas 538
  • D) Italian pasta 539
  • D) Syrniki 541
  • E) Dumplings 542
  • SECTION XVII. Porridge 544
  • A) Semolina 544
  • B) Smolensk groats 545
  • B) Small buckwheat 547
  • D) Large buckwheat “Yadritsa” 548
  • D) Rice groats 549
  • E) Barley 552
  • G) Pearl barley 552
  • H) Oatmeal 552
  • I) Various cereals 553
  • SECTION XVIII. Waffles, tubes, wafers, brushwood, pancakes 554
  • A) Waffles 554
  • B) Tubes 556
  • B) Wafers 557
  • D) Brushwood 557
  • D) Pancakes 558
  • SECTION XIX. Sweet pies and pies, cheesecakes, petishas, ​​crumpets or donuts, scrambled eggs and other various flour dishes 560
  • A) Sweet pies, pies and cheesecakes 560
  • B) Small cheesecakes 567
  • B) Petichou 568
  • D) Puffs or donuts 569
  • D) Drachena 571
  • E) Assorted sweet pies 572
  • SECTION XX. Ice cream, creams, marshmallows, mousses, blamange, jelly, compotes, milk custards 576
  • A) Ice cream 576
  • B) Cream 582
  • C) Marshmallow or cream without glue 587
  • D) Whipped cream 588
  • D) Ice cream 589
  • E) Parfait 591
  • G) Jelly 592
  • H) Mousse 598
  • K) Kiseli 601
  • L) Compotes 604
  • M) Dairy custards 607
  • SECTION XXI. Cakes 610
  • A) Glaze 611
  • B) Different masses for transferring cakes 612
  • B) Cakes 613
  • SECTION XXII. Mazurkas and other small cakes 628
  • A) Mazurkas 628
  • B) Small cake 630
  • SECTION XXIII. Vegetarian table 683
  • SECTION XXIV-XXXVI. Lenten table 698
  • DEPARTMENT XXXVII. Setting the table and dishes 773
  • DEPARTMENT XXXVIII. Department of Amendments and Additions 783

Molokhovets Elena Ivanovna

A gift for young housewives, or a way to reduce household expenses

Publisher: Printing house N.N. Klobukova

Place of publication: St. Petersburg.

Year of publication: 1901

Number of pages: 1052 pp.

The book “A Gift for Young Housewives or a Means to Reduce Household Expenses” is a culinary bestseller of the 19th century. First published in 1861 in Kursk, it went through more than thirty reprints at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries and has not lost its relevance today.

This unique collection of Russian cuisine recipes was originally published as a manual to help young housewives manage their households. The book contains recipes for a vegetarian and Lenten table, samples of table settings and dishes, and a description of the various supplies needed in the household.

A distinctive feature of this book, compared to previous ones, is the exact, rather than approximate, indication of the quantities of ingredients used. Guided by the goal of reducing household expenses, the author indicated in all recipes the exact proportion of all ingredients for 6 people.

A graduate of the Smolny Institute for Noble Maidens, Elena Molokhovets sought to help young housewives with a small fortune and moderate expenses to have a constantly tasty, healthy and varied lunch.