Pullover sizes: 36/38 (40/42) 44/46

You will need

300 (350) 350 g light purple, 150 (200) 200 g gray and 100 (100) 150 g purple Linarte yarn (40% viscose, 30% cotton, 20% linen, 10% polyamide, 125 m/50 g) .

Straight knitting needles No. 4,5 and No. 5; circular knitting needles and hook number 4.5.

Elastic band, knitting needles No. 4.5: odd number of loops. Persons row: chrome, knit 1, purl 1. alternately, 1 person, chrome. Out. r.: knit loops according to the pattern.

Knit the following patterns on needles No. 5.

Facial surface: faces. R. - persons p., out. R. - purl P.

Sequence of alternating stripes: 20 rubles each. light purple and gray alternately.

Mesh pattern, purple thread: the number of loops is a multiple of 6 + 1. Knit according to the pattern, which shows only faces. r., in purl. R. Knit all loops and yarn overs. Start with loops before rapport, repeat repeat, end with loops after repeat. Repeat from 1st to 8th row.

Pattern with holes (width 63 (71) 75 p.). Persons p.: chrome, 1 increase, 5 (6) 5 knits., * knit 2 sts together knits., 2 yarn overs, 1 broach (= see. symbols), 4 (5) knit 6, repeat from * 2 more times, for the middle knit 3 stitches together, then finish symmetrically. Out. r.: knit loops purl, 1st yarn over, purl 2nd yarn over. cross.

Sequence of alternating patterns: 16 (18) 20 r. persons satin stitch light purple, 2 r. pattern with holes and 18 r. persons pet the gray ones.

Simple decreases: at the beginning of the edge row, knit 2 stitches together; at the end of the row there is 1 broach (= see legend) and edge.

Double decreases: at the beginning of the edge row, knit 3 stitches together; at the end of the row, knit 3 stitches together with a broach (= remove 2 stitches as a knit, 1 knit and stretch it through both removed loops) and edge.

Pattern for the strap, knitting needles No. 4.5: 5 circular r. persons., 1 circular r. purl (= fold), 4 circular r. persons

Knitting density

Persons stitch: 21 p. and 31 r. = 10 x 10 cm.

Mesh pattern: 21 p. and 27 r. = 10 x 10 cm.

Description of work

Back: crosswise set cast on 101 (109) 117 sts with light purple thread and knit 3 cm = 10 r. with an elastic band. Then knit faces. satin stitch in the sequence of alternating stripes, while for the beveled line of the pattern in the 1st row. add 1 stitch on both sides and knit the middle 3 stitches together; the number of loops remains constant. Repeat these additions and decreases 29 more times in every 4th row. After 38 cm = 118 rub. close from the elastic for the armholes on both sides 4 p. = 93 (101) 109 p. After 38.5 cm = 120 r. from the elastic, start knitting as follows: chrome, 0 (1) 2 sts. iron. 91 (97) 103 p. mesh pattern, 0 (1) 2 p. knit. iron, chrome

After 8 cm = 22 r. (9.5 cm = 26 rub.) 11 cm = 30 rub. from changing the pattern (= after the next 6th (2nd) 6th r. pattern) continue knitting in the sequence of alternating patterns, while in the 1st r. decrease 30 (30) 34 sts. To do this, perform on top of all double broaches of the last person. R. mesh pattern 15 (15) 17 times 1 more double pull = 63 (71) 75 p. In the 5th r. from the end of the mesh pattern, perform increases and decreases as described before and repeat them another 7 (7) 8 times in every 4th row. After 11.5 cm = 36 r. (12 cm = 38 rub.) 13 cm = 40 rub. from the end of the mesh pattern, close all the loops, while the middle 45 (49) 49 sts form the neckline, the outer 9 (11) 13 sts on each side belong to the shoulders.

Before: knit in the same way, but with a neckline. To do this, after 6.5 cm = 20 rubles. (7 cm = 22 r.) 8 cm = 24 r. from the end of the mesh pattern, close the middle 39 (41) 43 sts and finish both sides separately, while continuing the rhythm of increases on the outer edges. To round, do 8 from the inner edge every 2nd r. 7 x 1 simple decrease, while in rows without addition perform 1 simple decrease, in rows with addition 1 double decrease. At the height of the back, close off the remaining 9 (11) 13 stitches of the shoulder on each side.

Sleeves: cast on 55 (61) 67 sts with a light purple thread in a cross cast-on and knit 3 cm = 10 r. with an elastic band. Then knit faces. satin stitch At the same time after 3 cm = 10 r. from the elastic, add 1 p. for sleeve bevels on both sides and in every 18th r. 3 x 1 p. (in every 12th r. 4 x 1 p.) in every 10th r. 5 x 1 p., then for all sizes again in every 10th p. 4 x 1 p. = 71 (79) 87 p. After 38 cm = 118 r. (37 cm = 114 rub.) 35.5 cm = 110 rub. close from the elastic to roll up the sleeves on both sides 4 p. = 63 (71) 79 p.

After 38.5 cm = 120 rub. (37.5 cm = 116 rub.) 36 cm = 112 rub. from the elastic, start knitting as follows: chrome, 0 (1) 2 sts. satin stitch, 61 (67) 73 p. mesh pattern, 0 (1) 2 p. knit. iron, chrome After 8 cm = 22 r. (9.5 cm = 26 rub.) 11 cm = 30 rub. from changing the pattern (= after the next 6th (2nd) 6th row of pattern) continue knitting. satin stitch with a light purple thread, while for further edging, reduce the sleeves by 1 p. double broaches 20 (20) 24 p., as described on the back = 43 (51) 55 p., then close on both sides in every 2nd r. 6 x 1, 2 x 2 and 1 x 3 p. After 6.5 cm = 20 r. From the end of the mesh pattern, close off the remaining 17 (25) 29 sts.

Assembly: sew shoulder seams. Tie the neckline with gray thread 92 (100) 100 conn. Art. On circular knitting needles, cast on gray thread from the back walls of the connection. Art. 1 p. each, knit 10 circular r. pattern for the strap and close all the loops. Turn the bar along the fold inward and sew it on; height of the finished strap = 2 cm. Sew in the sleeves, stretching them slightly if necessary, sew side seams and sleeve seams.

Knitting pattern, pattern and symbols:

1.

Special thanks to Anastasia Berkova (Zhukovsky) for organizing the online “Vkontakte” and for the support and advice to my mother. I will be glad if you indicate me as the author of the master class when using it in your works.

It all started with the fact that I accidentally purchased 1 package of Alize Bella Batik No. 3675. I wanted to crochet a diagonal top using one of the online sources, but considering that one package would not be enough, I put off knitting until I came across on “Osinka” diagonal top knitted with knitting needles. (Link to the work - http://club.osinka.ru/topic-147393?p=12767195#12767195). Its peculiarity is that it is knitted like a shawl from the right shoulder to the bottom of the left side without a single seam. Of course I was fired up. I admit that other works by Lilia, the author of the top, are no less memorable.

BUT I still haven’t figured out how the armhole is knitted, because the width of the shoulder is not equal to the length of the armhole, which in fact it should be.
Then I did it differently, in my own way: I decided to knit from the bottom of the left side to the right shoulder.

I used size 3 circular needles.
The ideal version of my top is knitted according to the pattern in the photo.


RED ZONE:
1. 0-start knitting like a shawl.
2. Knit to the desired height. We close (number 1 in the photo). At the armhole we disconnect - number 2.
We break the thread. We “transfer” the thread to the beginning of the row, namely, to the armhole.
GREEN ZONE:
3. Knit to the height of the armhole, close the knitting in a circle (number 3).
WHITE ZONE:
4. Form the shoulder, knit to the desired shoulder width and divide the knitting to form the neckline. (number 4)
PURPLE ZONE:
5. knit to the right armhole, divide the knitting on the side into the front and back sides (number 5).
6. We knit each side separately to the point marked with the number 6.
YELLOW ZONE:
7. Combine knitting and form a shoulder. We tighten the remaining 3-5 loops into a ring.

My top starts from the bottom left corner. Since I had not yet knitted shawls at that time, I missed the ribbon. I took a primitive diagram, “diamond leaves” (I attach a photo of the diagram).

We knit according to the pattern to the desired width (mine is 45 cm). The height is similar. And we will form the armhole.
We close the knitting on one side and separate it for the armhole in the middle of the resulting fabric, i.e. along the axial. To connect, I tied two edges together (right side). For the armhole, I knitted two loops from the axial one, which will become edge loops.

Continue knitting to the desired armhole height. On the right side we form the axial one: 3 together, yarn over, knit, yarn over, 3 together. This is for symmetry of the sides. Lily is axial only on one side, at the beginning of knitting.
We form a shoulder, combine the knitting, knit in the round. According to the principle that we used for the right side, we knit the axial one. (3 together, yarn over, knit, yarn over, 3 together).

We divide the knitting from the shoulder along the axial into two parts to form a boat neck, the right one is knitted in the same way to the armhole. We continue to close the loops at the beginning (yarn over, 3 stitches together) and at the end of the row (3 stitches together, yarn over). We tie it to the armhole, divide it along the right side along the axial line into front and back. We knit each side separately until the upper part reaches the desired armhole height, and close. We knit the shoulder - 3 stitches together, yarn over, knit, yarn over, 3 stitches together - forming a center line, as on the left shoulder.
Gradually decreasing the loops on the shoulder and along the right edge. the loops end. tighten the remaining minimum amount (5 loops).

The rest was enough for a beret for my daughter. I took the diagram and description from the description

Beautiful hat for mother and daughter knitted"false diagonal braids" pattern. This pattern will add the necessary volume to the head without weighing it down. The hat, despite the intricacy of the pattern, is knitted quickly and simply.

Description of knitting hats:

Threads ALIZE sekerim BEBE 100g/320m, 100% acrylic, 2 folds, For knitting the elastic I used knitting needles No. 4.5, for the main fabric - No. 5.5.

The number of reports on the header is 6.

Patterns:

Elastic band 1x1 - 12 rows

Diagonal braid - rapport 14+3l. loops

For size 56, cast on 84 loops and knit 12-14 rows with an elastic band. Continue according to the pattern until it decreases. You can see how to make them in the video of knitting the same hat.

The circuit is intended for circular knitting. If desired, the yarn over can be replaced air loop, then there will be no holes, and the pattern will look the same. The air loop is a crossed yarn over; in the next round it must be knitted.

Finished sizes knitted hat(in an unstretched state) is in the diagram. The hat fits perfectly on sizes 52-56 cm.

To know how many stitches to cast on you need to knit a sample. You also need to take into account the report of the elastic pattern 2*2 (it is equal to 4 loops) and the report of the braid pattern (it is equal to 17 loops).

Cast on 84 loops on circular knitting needles No. 4.5 and knit 16-18 rows with a 2*2 rib pattern (2 knit stitches, 2 purl loops).

Then move on to knitting the main fabric of the hat using the “diagonal braids” pattern. The pattern report is 17 loops, there are 84 loops on the knitting needles. 84 is not divisible by 17, one loop is missing to knit one repeat, so you need to add a loop in the first row of the pattern (start knitting the pattern with purl loops: purl the first loop, purl 2 from the second loop). Next, knit according to the pattern.

In order for the braid to have a slope, the loops in the pattern must be knitted together with a slant to the left: remove the first loop unknitted, knit the second loop and pull it through the first.

Braid pattern diagram:

To prevent a hole from forming when knitting the yarn over, the yarn over must be knitted behind the back wall of the loop. The loop will also slope to the left.

Having knitted three reports vertically (upwards) - this is 30 rows, I move on to knitting the crown.

Decrease pattern on the crown of a knitted hat

Remove the remaining loops after all the decreases onto the thread, pull and fasten the thread.

Snood with false braid pattern:

To complete the hat, knit a snood and mitts with the same pattern. To knit a snood according to the knitted pattern, cast on the required number of loops. To knit from thin threads on circular knitting needles, cast on 119 loops. 3-4 cm, knit a 2x2 or 1x1 elastic band, and then go to pattern. Knit 40-50 rows in height, and then switch to elastic again. For thick threads, 4-5 repeats of the pattern and 30-40 rows in height after the elastic are enough.

Mittens for the set

We will knit the thumb with an “Indian wedge”, the pattern for the mitts is “false braid”. You will need less than 100 g of yarn and suitable sock knitting needles, half-wool yarn 250 m/100 g, knitting needles No. 3.

We cast on 35 loops on the toe knitting needles, close them in a circle. There are 34 loops left. We distribute them onto 4 knitting needles. We knit with an elastic band, knit 1. 1 purl. 12 rows.

Pattern diagram for the right mitt of the mitt:

Finger extension scheme:

In the 8th row we begin to knit the finger. On knitting needles: 1 knitting needle - 8 loops, 2 - 9 loops, 3 - 8 loops, 4 - 9 loops.

If the pattern was knitted on 1 and 2 knitting needles, then the finger for right hand knit on the 3rd needle.

On the 3rd knitting needle we make increases:

1 row of incs: k1, N, k3, N, k4.

2nd row of additions: all facial.

3rd row of inc: k1, N, k5, N, k4.

4th row of additions: all facial.

5th row of incs: k1, N, k7, N, k4.

6th row of additions: all facial.

7 row of additions: k1, N, k9, N, k4.

8th row of additions: all facial.

The number of loops is a multiple of 6 + 1 + 2 edge loops. Each row begins and ends with 1 edge.

1st row: * 1 knit, 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches together with a tilt to the left, 3 knit, from * repeat, finish with 1 knit.

2nd and all even rows: purl stitches.

3rd row: * 1 knit, 1 yarn over, 1 knit, 2 sts, knit 2, from * repeat, finish with 1 knit.

5th row: * Knit 1, yarn over 1, knit 2, knit 2 stitches together with a slant to the left, knit 1, from * repeat, finish with knit 1.

7th row: * 1 knit, 1 yarn over, 3 knit, 2 stitches together with a tilt to the left, from * repeat, finish with 1 knit.

9th row: * Knit 4, knit 2 stitches together, 1 yarn over, from * repeat, finish with knit 1.

11th row: * Knit 3, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1, 1 yarn over, from * repeat, finish with knit 1.

13th row: * Knit 2, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2, 1 yarn over, from * repeat, finish with knit 1.

15th row: * Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 3, 1 yarn over, from * repeat, finish with knit 1.

Repeat rows 1–16 constantly.

Attention!

Asymmetrical details - a golf collar and a belt at the waist - are located one against the other, exactly in a mirror image. The impression is enhanced by the opposite direction of the patterns.

Photo: magazine“Sabrina. Special issue" No. 3/2018

/ 12/04/2016 at 18:55

Greetings, my dears. Sometimes you want to somehow diversify your knitting creativity, and then you try to use some not entirely traditional techniques in your work. Although, who knows what is considered traditional? Recently, such techniques have knitted products are present more and more frequently. One of them is diagonal knitting, which can be easily mastered by any beginning knitter. This is what we will talk about today.

Knitting diagonally ( bias knitting, knitting from the corner - called differently), it turns out when the patterns are knitted with knitting needles not as usual, in a straight line, but evenly expanding and then narrowing knitted fabric by adding and decreasing stitches along the edges.

And it turns out that kitchen potholders are also knitted this way (this is the first time I learned that this is also knitted), and such things are very popular on Western sites:

Execution technology

We knit a square diagonally

Let's look at how to knit this, using, say, garter stitch as an example. But first I will state the basic principle. So, we start knitting with three loops (there are exceptions, but more on that below). Then, after one row, at the beginning and end of the row, we first add 1 loop each to expand the fabric, and then, when the sides have reached the desired size, also through the row, we already decrease 1 loop at the beginning and end of the row.

It is better to add with yarn over, and decrease by knitting according 2 loops together. You can make additions and subtractions immediately next to edge loops, or you can leave the edge wider (depending on what product you have).

And now in more detail.

Method number 1 (simple square without wide edges)

Cast on 3 loops.

1st row: facial loops;

2nd row: edging, yarn over, 1 knit, yarn over, edging.

Note: The edges can be knitted as for a chain-shaped edge (the first one is removed, the last one is purled), or it can be knitted in all rows only with knit stitches. In the first case, you will get an almost openwork edge, which can then be easily crocheted, and in the second case, you will get a dense elastic edge.

3rd row and all odd rows: knit all the stitches, yarn over crossed facial loops;

4th row: edging, yarn over, knit 3, yarn over, edging;

When the sides reach the desired size, we begin to decrease the loops in the same way, every other row.

We knit rows of decreasing stitches like this: edge, knit 2 stitches together, knit with knit stitches until 3 remain on the left knitting needle last loops. At the end of the row, 2 loops together, front and edge.

We continue to knit, decreasing the loops until the number of loops between the edge loops is reduced to three. We knit this penultimate row like this: edge stitch, 3 stitches together, knit stitch, edge stitch. Now there are only 3 loops left in the row - close these loops, and the knitting is finished! (you can also not close it, but remove the first loop, knit the last 2 together and pull through the removed one; break the thread and pull the tip of the thread into the formed loop, tighten).

Method No. 2 (square with wider edges and openwork)

Cast on 4 loops.

Note: Here we will knit the edges both at the beginning and at the end of the row in all rows only with facial loops! (they are already included in the description).

1st row: 4 facial;

2nd row: Knit 2, yarn over, knit 2;

3rd row and all odd rows: all loops are knit;

4th row: Knit 2, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, knit 2;

Knit like this until the sides of the square increase to the size you need.

Subsequent even rows: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, yarn over, knit 2 stitches together, then knit with knit stitches until the last 5 stitches remain at the end of the row. At the end of the row, knit 2 stitches together, yarn over, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1.

Continue cutting stitches across the row until 9 stitches remain. After this, we knit a row of decreasing loops like this: 1 knit stitch, 2 knit stitches together, yarn over, 3 knit stitches together, yarn over, 2 knit stitches together, 1 knit stitch.

Next row: All stitches are knit (7 stitches left on the needle).

Next row: Knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1 (3 stitches left).

Cast off the last 3 stitches.

Another option for knitting such a square is if you knit the yarn overs with a crossed loop while adding loops, then there will be no holes, but you will get no less elegant edges:

And then you can crochet the edges (you can do it simply, or you can come up with something more interesting):

Knitting a rectangle diagonally

In the form of a rectangle, the fabric is knitted diagonally for hats, scarves, skirts, and shelves. A rectangle is a little more difficult to knit than a square, but the principle remains the same. The difference is as follows: when knitting a square, the loops are symmetrically added and decreased on both sides, but for a rectangle they do this:

• Start knitting in the same way as for a square and knit until the sides reach the size that the shorter side of the rectangle should have.
• In the next row, on one side we continue to increase the loops, as before, and on the other side we reduce them.
• We continue to knit like this (we add loops on one side and decrease them on the other) until we get the required length of the larger side of the rectangle.
• After this, we decrease the loops on both sides until 3 loops remain.

The process can be seen more clearly in the diagram:

How to knit a rectangle from a corner.

What patterns are good for knitting on the diagonal?

As you already understand, you can knit diagonally not only with garter stitch (it’s just convenient because it’s dense and looks the same on both sides).

For scarves, blankets, clothing parts, you can use more large patterns with pronounced horizontal or vertical stripes in the design, or even regular stockinette stitch, but alternating multi-colored stripes.