Whose blog is dedicated to analysis of ingredients, we find out how to determine whether a particular product is really safe for children.

Already at the very beginning of pregnancy, many expectant mothers think about what care products they will use for their babies. And they are starting to choose their care more carefully.

And this is right, because mother and child need the most gentle, safe care. Especially when the baby is born.

The thing is that children's delicate skin is much thinner than an adult's. Because of this, it is especially permeable; any substances from cosmetics and the surrounding world get inside much faster. In addition, the baby’s skin does not yet have such functions as to provide him with complete protection from substances from the outside world.

That's why when using any cosmetic products you need Special attention devote to their composition. Unfortunately, the inscription “for children” does not always mean that the product will not cause harm.

In this article I will give a useful cheat sheet that will help you navigate the compositions. So, let's go!

Such components can be divided into three groups:

1. completely prohibited in children's cosmetics (in the EU)
2. unwanted Ingredients
3. dangerous for allergy sufferers

1. Prohibited ingredients in children's cosmetics (in the EU)

• Methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone (in leave-in cosmetics)
• Propylparaben, butylparaben (in baby diaper cosmetics)
• Isopropylparaben
• Isobutylparaben
• Phenylparaben
• Benzylparaben
• Pentylparaben
• Benzophenone-1
• Benzophenone-2

2. Undesirable ingredients in children's cosmetics

• Mineral oil and its derivatives clog pores, creating a “greenhouse effect” that makes the skin drier over time
• PEG derivatives - make the skin thinner and more permeable to other substances
• Silicones - act like mineral oil. This is a substance foreign to the skin that cannot restore it in any way.
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate is a strong surfactant that degreases the skin and leads to dryness.
• All ingredients with MEA, DEA, TEA in the name
• All parabens have a hormonally similar effect
• Critical UV filters: Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Octyl Methoxycinnamate

3. Particularly allergenic ingredients

Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Amyl cinnamal, Amylcinnamyl alcohol, Anise alcohol, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl cinnamate, Benzyl salicylate, Butylphenyl methylpropional, Cinnamal, Cinnamyl alcohol, Citral Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Evernia furfuracea extract, Evernia prunastri extract, Farnesol , Geraniol, Hexyl cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Methyl 2-octynoate.

Such ingredients should be avoided by children with or prone to allergies.

Essential oils should also be avoided in children's cosmetics only in cases where the child is prone to allergies or is already allergic to certain plants/flowers/substances.

Let's look at the composition

Let's take an example of 2 diaper creams!

For comparison, we took one of the popular brands that can often be found in supermarkets. We won’t name the manufacturer, we think you can guess for yourself. Or, in any case, take a closer look at the composition the next time you buy, which is also good :)

Composition of a typical diaper cream:

AQUA, ETHYLHEXYL STEARATE, MINERAL OIL, ZINC OXIDE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE, GLYCERIN, POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE, CERESIN STEARIC ACID PARAFFIN, ISODODECANE, DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, PROPYLENE GLYCOL STEARATE, CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER EXTRACT, PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL, ZINC STEARATE, MAGNESIUM SULFATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE, AROMA

As you can see, mineral oil is already in third place, and then Ceresin (a derivative of mineral oil) and paraffin (also mineral oil). Next, the product contains 2 parabens. One of them is even one that is banned in diaper products in the EU. The critical highly allergenic preservative METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE is also contained in the cream.

How much cosmetics do you use daily? For your face alone, you probably have at least 4-5 products: makeup remover, cleanser, toner, scrub, daytime and night cream, foundation. And this is basic care. Now imagine that each of these tools has at least 1 critical component. And even if it is presented there in low concentration, doesn’t it turn out that we are applying a chemical cocktail to our skin?

In this issue, Alena Eco, whose blog is dedicated to a thorough analysis of the composition of cosmetics, shared her opinion with us.

Why are you buying natural cosmetics? The safety of the compounds is probably important to you. Safe for your health and the environment.

You can have peace of mind with eco-certified organic cosmetics. Well-known eco-standards BDIH, NaTrue, Ecocert, Cosmebio, USDA prohibit the use of critical ingredients in cosmetics - strong preservatives, petroleum products, synthetic fragrances and dyes, irritating tensides, products obtained from dead animals (for example, animal collagen extracted from cockscombs).

But if an ingredient is prohibited by eco-standards, this does not mean that you will not find it in ordinary classic cosmetics. Take a look at the first hand cream you find in the store - there will be parabens, fragrances, PEG derivatives, and mineral oil.

The question arises: “Are these ingredients really critical? After all, if they were dangerous to health, their use would have been banned by law long ago!” Is it so? Let's figure it out.

Why is it allowed?

The production and distribution of cosmetic products is regulated in Russia by the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union “On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products”, in Europe – by the European Cosmetics Regulation.

Both documents say the following:

• what ingredients are prohibited in cosmetic products;
• some ingredients can only be used in cosmetics at a certain concentration (for example, propyl and butyl parabens up to 0.19%, methyl and ethyl parabens up to 0.4%);
• the manufacturer is responsible for the safety of its products;
• the manufacturer is obliged to check each product for the content of prohibited substances and for safety;

Authorities may test cosmetic products on a random basis.

So what's the problem? And the fact is that the law, one way or another, takes into account the content of a critical ingredient in only one product and does not take into account the fact that we use several products a day. And so - every day.

Many studies show that when using several cosmetic products with critical substances (for example, hormonally active ones, such as parabens or UV filters), a “chemical cocktail” is obtained in the blood - the negative effects of one critical ingredient can be enhanced by another.

Why is it prohibited?

At the political level, only those ingredients whose negative effects on the body have been officially proven are prohibited in cosmetics. To do this, an ingredient can be tested for years before the evidence reaches the top.

Eco-standards prohibit ingredients negative action which are only suspected. They don't wait for hundreds of official studies in laboratories and unofficial studies on users (read: you and me) to ban critical or controversial ingredients.

Example: phenoxyethanol

For example, phenoxyethanol is a popular preservative in face creams, for a long time was suspected of having a neurotoxic effect on the body and a negative effect on immune system. Therefore, it was banned by all eco-standards except the Soil Association.

Until recently.

If you liked this article, don't miss it.

Municipal budgetary educational institution

Secondary secondary school No. 2 of the city

Smolensk

Research

on the topic “Composition of cosmetics.

Harmful, carcinogenic, toxic additives in cosmetics. A reminder for everyone!”

Pupils of Novikova Anastasia and Kazantsev Maxim

Head: Ivanova N.L.

Academic year

How to choose your cosmetics so that composition of cosmetic products completely satisfied the needs of your skin. There are two safe options.

1. You can use the services of a beauty salon. In European countries they have been operating as professional cosmetics stores for a long time. Usually a concentrate of active substances in composition of cosmetic products there are many times more professional brands than in ordinary cosmetics and even more than in luxury cosmetics. For home use, such creams are sold in small colorful jars, and during procedures the cosmetologist uses the salon version - nondescript large jars.

2. The second option is to take the advice of an experienced cosmetologist. And if composition of cosmetic products will cause allergies or other side effects, then you will have somewhere to turn. Typically, professional cosmetologists worry about their clients and monitor the condition of the skin during the procedure, immediately notice redness and rashes, and the next day they call and ask to tell about their condition if the procedure was performed for the first time.

Whatever option you choose, you must always remember that any company that has established itself in the international cosmetics market must have an official website with the ability to choose a language (usually English, German and others). The website should contain a link to ISO quality certificates, a dealer network for different countries, the amount of annual turnover that allows for expensive research. Composition of cosmetics must be open to ordinary customers. And the assortment should be at least 50-60 products for different types skin and ages.

To figure out composition of cosmetics not so easy. The shelves of our stores are literally littered with a variety of beautiful jars in bright packaging. And, despite the legislative regulation of this market, companies do not always indicate the actual ingredients of their creams and other cosmetics.

In addition, there is a gradation of cosmetics by cost, that is, the market is quite clearly divided into segments. And the chemical composition of cosmetics in each segment is very different.

For example, the lowest level of this pyramid is cosmetics of the so-called low mass market. These are cosmetics that can be found in ordinary street stalls. It may be expired, since self-respecting women (and they are already the majority) do not use such means. The shelf life is exceeded and these manipulations are not noticeable to the naked eye. this level is also suspicious. An allergy to mascara will quickly make itself felt. But no one wants to walk around with puffy eyes for a whole week.

Usually in composition of cosmetics The lower mass market contains only a fat base and fragrance. The benefits of such cosmetics are zero. It’s easier to use regular baby cream: no harm, but no effect either. But you shouldn’t be too scared; you’re unlikely to buy a cream from an unknown Russian brand or a company of South Asian origin.

The second stage of the pyramid is the middle-level mass market. These are well-known brands such as Nivea, Gilette and others. IN composition of decorative cosmetics, creams and other products of these brands supposedly contain herbal ingredients that are beneficial to the body. But this is already alarming. After all, herbalists have been studying the art of collecting medicinal plants for years, and companies are unlikely to hire professionals for this.

Besides chemical composition of cosmetics even a well-established brand can vary greatly. After all, just like in our garden: there are productive years and not. Even the taste of cucumbers may differ depending on the dryness of the summer. However, there is no point in fearing here either. Since there are usually so few active ingredients in the average mass market that they will do neither good nor harm.

The next level is top-level mass market. This cosmetics has long migrated from the shelves of regular stores to specialized retail chains such as Letual, Arbat Prestige, and Rive Gauche. This is a very thoughtful move by the manufacturers. Since young people who do not yet have the money to purchase luxury cosmetics will purchase top mass market brands, and subsequently switch to more expensive brands. In addition, customers believe that purchasing cosmetics in such stores is absolutely safe, since friendly consultants are always happy to tell you about composition of cosmetics. In fact, salespeople are trained in only 10-15 brands. And they don’t need to know about the rest, and often don’t want to.

That’s why high-end mass market manufacturers have to chemical composition of cosmetics make it "inactive". So that if it does not bring any benefit, then at least it does not cause harm due to the wrong choice.

Composition of decorative cosmetics This level will also not cause harm, since the biologically active components there are “the cat cried.”

Here is another floor of the pyramid - selective cosmetics released under a well-promoted, trustworthy brand. Even the Zepter company did not disdain to make some money on our beauty. IN composition of cosmetics such lines actually contain ingredients that give results, but most of these creams are dummies with beautiful name, if you do not select them in consultation with a specialist.

Pharmacy cosmetics occupy a special place in the minds of women. Composition of decorative cosmetics and many creams are credited with miraculous powers. But again the question arises: if the cosmetics are medicinal, then they should be issued not just after consultation with the seller, but rather with a cosmetologist or dermatologist. Although it is more difficult to make a mistake with pharmaceutical cosmetics. Chemical composition of cosmetics pharmacy brands are more active, and with the help of a knowledgeable consultant you can really heal your skin.

But this is not our recommendation. The main thing in cosmetics is that it suits you. And often only an experienced cosmetologist or dermatologist, or both in one person, can choose it (as happens in good salons). Professional cosmetics are also distributed there, packaged in nondescript jars, because the money of such companies is spent not on promoting the brand, but on developing the formula. After all, the concentration of active ingredients in professional brand cosmetics is tens of times higher than those found in ordinary cosmetics of a lower level.

Prohibited raw materials

Harmful ingredients are not introduced into cosmetics. The Independent International Society of Cosmetic Chemists issues lists of substances excluded from the list of permitted cosmetic ingredients at least twice a year. If any information is found about the adverse effects of their use, they are included in the “black list” of ingredients prohibited in cosmetics.

Below is a list of key ingredients that are banned or restricted in most countries.

Amber musk can affect the nervous system: severe headaches and what experts call behavioral disturbances appear: severe irritability, worsening mood, impaired coordination of movements, etc.

Vinyl chloride-Has neurotoxicity. Carcinogen.

Hexachlorphene-Well absorbed through the skin. Has neurotoxicity.

Diokan- carcinogen. Particularly dangerous for the liver, penetrates well through the skin. Contained in some ethoxylated surfactants, which are designated PEG on the label. May be found in shampoos, shower gels, bubble baths and other body and hair care products.

Nitrosamines- carcinogens. Particularly dangerous for the liver, penetrates well through the skin.

Zirconium derivatives Have a toxic effect on the lungs.

Mercury and its derivatives are used in whitening products and cosmetics for eyelid skin care. A strong allergen, has a neurotoxic effect, and has a tendency to cumulate (accumulate in the body). If derivatives are used, then the permitted concentration should not exceed 0.006% in terms of pure mercury.

To avoid the appearance on sale of products with dangerous ingredients, our country has introduced annual certification of cosmetic products and production. You should purchase cosmetic products only in special stores or sections, beauty salons, at professional exhibitions and sales - where they can show you everything Required documents and provide qualified advice on the properties and use of certain drugs.

Research results

The results of a study of cosmetics and personal hygiene products used by students of a medical college, students of MBOU Secondary School No. 2, teachers and members of their families.

The study was conducted in the form of a survey among students, pupils and teachers. For the survey, a table was proposed, according to which they checked their cosmetics at home. The results were processed and presented in table form. The frequency of repetition is indicated as a percentage of the total number of respondents.

Research results

Cosmetics Means	Pomade	Cream (for face, foundation)	Eye shadows	Shampoo	Toothpaste
Compound
Triethanolamine (TEA) Causes serious dermatitis on the facial skin, making it sensitive and allergic. Usually in cosmetics it regulates the pH balance. May contain nitrosamines, which are highly carcinogenic.	5,5			5,4
Talc Obtained from magnesium silicate. Very dangerous and toxic. Cannot be used on children as it may cause lung cancer. The use of talc in the genital area, as recent studies show, leads to ovarian cancer	16,21
Stearamidopropyl Tetrasodium EDTA Forms nitrosamines in cosmetics. Nitrosamines are known carcinogens	2,7	2,7
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Contained in 90% of shampoos and conditioners. They corrode the hair follicle and slow down hair growth. It quickly penetrates the body and settles in the eyes, brain, and liver. It is eliminated from the body very slowly. May cause blindness and cataracts. Carcinogenic. Irritates skin and eyes, causing hair loss and dandruff. Causes serious allergic reactions. Dries the skin and scalp.	5,5	8,1			51,3
Sodium Chloride Salt. Added to give cosmetics viscosity.	5,5	16,21
Sodium Hydroxide Salt. Added to give cosmetics viscosity.			2,7
Isopropyl Alcohol (SD-40) Causes cancer of the mouth, tongue, and throat. Used as a cleaning agent, as well as in cosmetics, perfumes, and mouth rinses. Symptoms of poisoning are headache, nosebleeds, dizziness.		21,6	2,7	5,4
Imidazolidinyl Urea After parabens, it is the most used preservative in cosmetics. A colorless, tasteless, odorless substance. Added to powder, baby shampoos, colognes, eye shadows, hair tonics and lotions. Causes dermatitis. At high temperatures releases formaldehyde, which is very toxic.		21,6	2,7
Trade name: DMDM ​​hydantoin or MDM hydantion may cause dermatitis. As a preservative, it can form formaldehyde, which is a dangerous carcinogen.		2,7	5,5	8,1	51,3
Fluorocarbons Commonly used in hair sprays. Toxic to the respiratory tract.			2,7
Fluoride is a dangerous chemical element. It is especially dangerous in toothpaste. Scientists associate this element with the occurrence of dental deformities, arthritis, and allergic manifestations.		2,7			8,1
Dioform is used in many toothpastes and other teeth whiteners. Damages tooth enamel.				2,7	2,7
Cocomidopropyl Betaine is used in shampoos in combination with other surfactants (surfactants). Synthetic substance. Causes eyelid irritation.			8,1
Cocomide DEA Strong carcinogens.	2,7		2,7
Coal Tar FD, FDC or FD&C ink. coal tar. Used in anti-dandruff shampoos. Usually carried on labels under the names: FD, FDC or coloring FD&C. Coal tar can cause serious illnesses such as allergic reactions, asthma attacks, fatigue, nervousness, headaches, nausea, poor concentration, and cancer.	8,1
Carbomer 934, 940, 941, 960, 961 C is used as a thickener and stabilizer in creams, toothpastes, decorative cosmetics for the eyes and also in bath products. Artificial emulsifier. Causes allergies and eye inflammation.		13,5			5,4
Butylated Hydroxianisole (BHA) is a preservative widely used not only in cosmetics, but also in the food industry. It is quickly absorbed into the skin and remains in tissues for a long time. Carcinogenic.	2,7	2,7	2,7		2,7
Bentonite bentonite – (1. Highly plastic clay, 2. A grade of bleaching clay). Bentonite is supposed to be able to draw out toxins. Experiments on mice showed the high toxicity of clay. This is a porous clay that quickly absorbs moisture from the skin. The skin can suffocate under the clay.	2,7	2,7
Aluminum – Aluminum Used as a color additive in cosmetics, especially eye shadow, but also in deodorants and antiperspirants. Toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic.	2,7	16,21
Alcohol alcohol, alcohol – acts as a vehicle and anti-inflammatory. Dries quickly. Synthetic alcohol is a toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance that causes adverse reactions in the body.					5,4
Acetamide MEA acetamide; acetic acid amide. Used in lipsticks and blushes to retain moisture. Toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic.	5,5	2,7
No composition				8,1	21,6

This compound is a derivative of petroleum products. It is the second most popular component of moisturizers after water. This compound may cause eye and skin irritation. Propylene glycol is found in shaving products, baby oils, and shampoos. If the label contains Propylene Glycol, Proptylene Glycol, 1,2-Propanediol, we don’t take it!

2. Formaldehyde

It's formaldehyde. This is a common preservative. You can find it in nail polishes, shampoos, and whitening products. On the label it can be designated as 4 formaldehyde, formalin, formic aldehyde, oxomethane, oxymethylene. Toxic and carcinogenic. Never.

3. Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a popular ingredient in whitening cosmetics, hair lighteners, concealers, face washes and sunscreens with an SPF greater than 15. Hydroquinone reduces the production of melanin pigment in the skin. This leads to increased exposure to UVA and UVB rays in the deeper layers of the skin. You understand how dangerous this is. May appear on the label as 1,4-Benzenediol, 1,4-Dihydroxybenzene, P-Dioxybenzene, 4-Hydroxyphenol, P-Hydroxyphenol, 1,4 Benzenediol.

Popular

4. Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate

These substances remove fat and salt from the skin. May cause irritation to the skin and eyes, but pose a real threat only after prolonged (more than an hour at a time) contact with the skin. So if your shampoo contains it, don’t panic, but in the future try to choose products that do not contain Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Anhydrous Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Irium, SLS, SLES, MSDS, ALES , A.L.S.

5. Paraben

Any cream contains substances whose names end in -paraben. For example, butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben. These substances are used as preservatives. Parabens are considered safe, but recent research has confirmed that methylparaben may interact with UVB rays and accelerate skin aging. Be careful with him!

6. Aluminum acetate

Used in face creams as an astringent. It was originally developed to create waterproof fabrics... interesting analogy with leather, isn't it? With prolonged use, Aluminum Acetate causes peeling of the skin.

7. Bithionol

Used in creams as a bactericidal agent. May cause hypersensitivity skin to sunlight, itching and redness. If you have sensitive skin, then the mention of Bithionol on the label is a stop sign!

8. Triclosan

The latest achievement in antibacterial chemistry. Used in cleaning products and detergents for household needs, as well as in cosmetics. But scientists noticed that bacteria began to “learn” and form strains resistant to triclosan. Since regular soap cleanses the skin just as well as triclosan, let's not help bacteria prepare universal soldiers? Triclosan will not work!

9. Glycerin/Vaseline

Chemical compounds of fat and water in which fat is broken down into smaller components. Contrary to advertising, they are not a moisturizer, but cause dehydration and drying of the skin (at air humidity below 65-70%, they “pull” moisture from the deep layers of the skin, which increases the drying of the deep layers of the epidermis, making dry skin even drier). It is easy to identify them in the composition: Glycerin and Vaselin, there are no pseudonyms.

10. Dihydroxyacetone

This chemical compound is most often found in low-quality auto bronzers. It can worsen asthma. Particularly harmful for pregnant and lactating women. Hiding under the name Glycerone, 1,3-dihydroxypropanone-2. Armed and very dangerous.

11. Fluorocarbon

Commonly used in hairsprays under the name Fluorocarbons. Toxic to the respiratory tract.

12. Phenoxyethanol

Causes serious allergic reactions. Trade name: Arosol, Dowanol EPH, Phenyl Cellosolve, Phenoxethol, Phenoxetol and Phenonip.

13. Fluoride

For many years, this ingredient has been advertised as being good for teeth, strengthening enamel, and protecting against caries. It was introduced into toothpastes and recommended to children as “a component necessary during the development of permanent teeth.” But the National Toxicology Program, with the assistance of the US National Health Service, conducted studies that confirmed that fluoride, although one of the natural components of dental tissue, should not enter the body in the form of fluoride. Fluoride is needed in small quantities and can be absorbed in organic forms through food.

14. Talc

Terribly toxic. This is especially true for powder. Make sure yours is marked “Talc free”.

15. Butane and propane

Found in deodorant sprays, they are very harmful to both the skin and the respiratory tract. Do you need it?