Every woman wants her face to look perfect. Chemical is a remedy that will help where cream and mask fail. The purpose of the peeling procedure is to eliminate skin defects and rejuvenate by removing the upper layers of the epidermis. Professional peeling is carried out using various chemicals that cause burns and rejection of those layers that are planned to be removed.

The skin damaged in this way begins to actively regenerate. Fans of this procedure and cosmetologists claim that after some time the skin will be as soft as a baby’s. But this procedure has both its advantages and disadvantages. How often to do chemical peeling and is it possible to do it at all? Which drug should I choose? Experts have not yet found a consensus. What kind of facial procedure this is is described in more detail.

What are the types of professional chemical peeling for the face?

There are 3 types of chemical peels:

1. Surface. involves affecting only the outer layer of the epidermis (keratinized). At the same time, the outer layer of the skin is renewed, the ducts of the sebaceous glands are cleaned, their secretion is regulated, excess keratinized particles are removed, and the penetration of biologically active substances is improved. The skin becomes smoother, more even, its color is evened out (it becomes light and uniform).
2. The median affects the entire epidermis, reaching the basement membrane on which the cells lie. In this case, the activation of connective tissue cells occurs, which lie in the middle layer of the skin and are responsible for the structure of the collagen framework, reducing the number of melanocytes (pigment cells), and increasing vascular tone. You can find out by following the link.
3. Deep– impact on the entire thickness of the skin (epidermis and dermis). This method is the most radical and painful, so it is done only according to doctor’s indications and under anesthesia. This leads to a complete renewal of the collagen-elastin network and helps get rid of deep scars. This activates synthesis hyaluronic acid, which maintains skin tone and completely renews its cellular composition. The dermis recovers from 6 months to a year and requires more careful care.

Who can have the procedure

Superficial chemical peeling of the skin is the most gentle; it can be performed on adolescents with excessively oily dermis and people with hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands. It is used in the fight against acne and acne if alternative methods for problem skin have proven ineffective (cream, cleansing, etc.). At the age of 25 to 35 years, it can be used for a slight rejuvenation effect.

At a young age, medium peeling is not recommended, and there is no need. But unscrupulous cosmetologists can offer such a procedure, you need to be careful. It is necessary for age-related decreases in the synthesis of structural components of the skin (collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid). In this case, medium peeling will help activate the cells that lie in the dermis (fibroblasts).

Video of chemical peeling at home:

It is better not to do deep peeling until you are 55 years old. There is simply no point in injuring your skin before. You need to be prepared for a long recovery period, protect your skin from the sun and cosmetics for at least six months.

What chemical peeling is is best not known to children under 16 and people with dry skin. In this case, procedures aimed at moisturizing the skin are more suitable.

Are there any contraindications?

There are many more prohibitions on peeling than indications. You should definitely consult with a dermatologist and cosmetologist before deciding to undergo this procedure. If you have at least one contraindication, the consequences can be very serious.

The first danger is the sun. Depending on the type of peeling, it is necessary to protect the skin from direct sunlight for 2 weeks to a year and use a cream with ultraviolet protection. If you do not follow these recommendations, you may get dark spots on the face, to even out which you will need to do a new peeling of the skin.

The risk of bacterial, fungal or viral infection. In the thickness of skin weakened by peeling, there are much fewer immunologically active cells that protect against the spread of infections, such as the human papillomavirus.

If personal hygiene rules are not observed or if this virus is present (warts, papillomas on other parts of the body), it can spread with lightning speed to the areas where peeling is applied.

If a person has a problem with addiction allergic reactions, then he should be prepared for excessive swelling and redness for some time after the procedure. Anti-allergenic drugs and cream will help improve the condition.

It is better to avoid chemical peeling during pregnancy or lactation. Epidermis of a pregnant woman due to changes hormonal levels prone to hyperpigmentation. Therefore, the result may be different from what was expected. In addition, the components of peeling mixtures are toxic and can be absorbed into the blood, which can be dangerous for a child.

The following diseases are considered contraindications to peeling:

Surface fruits are discussed.

Video of chemical peeling for the face:

How to prepare for the procedure?

Before exposing the skin to aggressive acids, it is necessary to prepare it for this. The better the pre-peel care, the less likely you are to get unpleasant side effects. Mechanical cleaning is recommended 2 weeks before the procedure; the use of cleansers is only permissible if they contain weak acids.

Most often it is salicylic or ascorbic acid. Already at this stage it is worth starting to protect your skin from direct sunlight. Be sure to take a break from visiting the solarium or the beach.

If a deep peeling procedure is planned, then a superficial chemical peel of the face is performed 1-2 weeks earlier for preparation.

What could be the consequences?

You need to be prepared for the fact that your face will look far from ideal immediately after the procedure. The recovery period begins, during which the following may occur:

1. Redness, swelling. The skin reaction is similar to an allergy. Antihistamines (decongestants) may help at this stage.
2. Peeling of the skin. It can have a different character: from almost imperceptible to the slipping of fibrin films from the skin, which can change color. This peeling is the purpose of peeling. Thus, the epidermis is renewed and gets rid of old cells.
3. Tightness, dry skin. Due to the drying effect. A cream will help combat this, which must be prescribed during the recovery period.

What unexpected side effects might there be?

In addition to the consequences that will definitely occur, you can encounter much more unpleasant effects. The most common of them is the lack of the desired result. This procedure does not solve all skin problems in one fell swoop; moreover, there are a lot of details that need to be followed (pre-peel, post-peel care) to get a decent result.

But no result is better than serious skin damage caused by an uncontrolled burn. Such a burn develops as a result of improper peeling technique (neglecting the required acid concentration, time frame, etc.). This can also happen if the skin is overly sensitive to acid.

The most common complication is hyperpigmentation. The face after chemical peeling should be protected from the sun. Most often, the responsibility for the appearance of excessive pigmentation falls on the patient, since the presence of pigment increases in direct proportion to the amount of ultraviolet radiation reaching the skin. You shouldn’t go on vacation after peeling. warm countries. In temperate climates, it is better to carry out peeling in the autumn. winter period.

Video on how often to do chemical facial peeling:

After peeling, a small rash or even large pimples may appear, especially in the first week after the procedure. They may come off on their own or require cosmetic cleaning. The reason for their appearance is non-compliance with personal hygiene rules. During the post-peeling period, you need to be especially careful about the cleanliness of items that come into contact with the skin (bed linen, clothing, telephone, etc.). Should you stop using it for a while? decorative cosmetics– it clogs the pores.

As a result of exfoliation, crusts are formed that cannot be peeled off. You have to wait until they reject themselves. If you neglect this, scars will appear. Scarring may be associated with errors by the cosmetologist (high concentration of the drug or failure to comply with the application time) or with the client having impaired skin regeneration.

As a result of medium or deep peeling, an effect may be observed when a clear line is visible between the areas of the skin where the procedure was performed and those where it was not. This completely depends on the experience and skill of the cosmetologist. So you need to choose a professional with recommendations, apply best mixtures. A good doctor will advise you and help you choose the right procedure.

How to care for your skin during the recovery period?

The same skin care measures are used for all types of peeling. The main point is sun protection. It is recommended to use a cream with a high level of protection against ultraviolet rays, limited time spent in the sun. A dermatologist or cosmetologist gives recommendations on the use of a cream that accelerates skin regeneration, relieves inflammation, redness, and pain.

2-3 days after the procedure, you can wash your face with water or a product with a neutral acid-base balance. While peeling is observed, it is better to use serums on water based instead of thick oily face creams. When the peeling stops, you can use your favorite cream again.

It's better to refuse:

• tanning on the beach, in the solarium;
• visits to the sauna, bathhouse, steam room;
• going to the pool;
• other cosmetic procedures;
• decorative cosmetics.

More information about facial care after the procedure can be read in.

When can I do it again?

How often you can peel, your doctor can tell you individually. Chemical facial peeling (superficial) can only be done once every 2 weeks. The doctor may prescribe a course of 5-7 procedures to achieve the desired effect.

For medium and deep peels this time is much longer. It depends on the products used, which are indicated by the manufacturers. Usually this is at least 2 times longer than the duration of the recovery period.

Is it possible to carry out the procedure yourself?

Chemical peeling facials can only be performed by a cosmetologist in sterile conditions! But you can do chemical body peeling at home. It is characterized by the absence of severe inflammation and redness and less danger to the skin, since on the body it is much thicker and stronger than on the face, and has denser layers.

The procedure is carried out at home using products purchased or prepared independently. The composition should contain fruit acids, which are characterized by a mild effect on the stratum corneum and antiseptic properties. They moisturize the skin and rejuvenate it. Such mixtures are sold in pharmacies or specialized cosmetic stores.

Recipe for a mixture for body peeling at home: mix high-fat kefir with crushed pieces of citrus fruits (lemons, oranges).

This mixture must be applied to the body with light massage movements, held for 10-15 minutes and rinsed with warm water.

Lactic acid in combination with fruit acids will give an excellent effect of exfoliating, whitening and moisturizing the skin.

Whatever type of peeling is chosen, the most important thing is to consult a doctor and think over the pros and cons of such a decision. After all, the consequences are sometimes much more expensive and require much more time and effort. Beauty requires sacrifice, but this sacrifice should not be health.

Chemical peeling is considered the most popular and well-known means for rejuvenating and renewing facial skin. With the help of a chemical peeling procedure, the upper layers of the epidermis are perfectly removed and regeneration processes are stimulated, which leads to an improvement in the aesthetic condition of the skin.
Deep peeling provides an excellent rejuvenation effect without surgical intervention.
Chemical peeling is a radical procedure, so it is performed only in the presence of deep scars and wrinkles. This peeling should be done in an office with medical equipment.

Types of chemical peeling

There are three types of chemical peeling: superficial, medium and deep. Superficial peeling is applied to combat age spots.
Medium chemical peeling penetrates the entire depth of the epidermis. As a result of this effect, the basement membrane remains intact. The medium peeling procedure is used to correct deep skin defects: all kinds of scars, unpleasant wrinkles or the presence of stretch marks.
Deep chemical peeling is comparable to major plastic surgery. The skin is exposed to its entire depth, and the basement membrane is deformed. But as a result of regeneration, the epidermis is restored.
When choosing a peeling, consult a qualified specialist for advice, as you should not make a decision on your own.
Chemical peeling Available: yellow, glycolic, peeling trichloroacetic acid, enzyme and phenolic.

Chemical peeling technology

Indications: acne, problematic skin, actinic dermatitis, prevention of skin aging, hyperpigmentation, prevention and correction cosmetic defects skin ( folds, wrinkles, aging skin).
The chemical peeling procedure stimulates regeneration processes, promotes exfoliation of the upper layers of the epidermis, which leads to an improvement in the overall aesthetic condition of the skin.

Chemical peel video

Description of the chemical peeling procedure

1. The cosmetologist takes a regular cotton applicator and moistens it with a chemical solution, then squeezes it thoroughly. This is very important to ensure that the solution does not get into your eyes.
2. Then rub the solution with a cotton applicator - from 30 minutes to an hour. The duration of the procedure will depend on changes in skin color. He will begin to treat the skin from the frontal part. Then - the nose, cheeks and chin. Rub the solution into wrinkles especially carefully.
The patient will feel a slight burning sensation. After treatment with the solution for an hour, severe swelling forms on the skin. For the first two days he will not be able to open his eyes.
3. The cosmetologist applies four layers of adhesive plaster to the face along certain lines: two layers of cotton and two layers of silk. This must be done to maintain a certain concentration of the solution for a longer period. Thus, The procedure will take from an hour to 2 hours. The mask cannot be removed for two days. On the second day, the mask will come off almost on its own.
4. On the day the mask is removed, the skin is treated with thymol iodide, which promotes skin regeneration. The duration of the procedure will be from an hour to 2 hours. You will have to wear the mask for seven days. After a week, the swelling will decrease and a dense crust will form on the face.
5. The cosmetologist will cover the face with a thick layer of cotton wool for a day. The procedure lasts from 20 to 30 minutes. After a day, the cotton wool is removed. Now the patient can independently care for his face using cosmetics, which the cosmetologist will recommend.

“Effect” time and procedure frequency

Necessary go through 4 to 6 sessions with an interval of two weeks. The final result becomes noticeable for 8-10 days. "Effect" time from six months to a year. Then the chemical peeling procedure can be repeated.

Tools and equipment which a professional cosmetologist uses:

• skimmer
• combination spoon
• uno spear
• a spear
• slotted spoon
• microhook
• Vidal needle
• Magnifier Lamp
• Vapazon (steaming the skin surface before cosmetic procedures)

Aids: disposable napkins and sticks, cotton applicator.

After this procedure, use home remedies for post-peeling rehabilitation with a softening, moisturizing and regeneration-stimulating effect. Drugs that contain glycolic acid should be excluded.
On sunny days, use products with a UV filter with a protection level of at least 30.
You cannot remove the crusts yourself! This can lead to the formation of scars and scars!

Chemical peeling of the face prices

Note: The information is not official or promotional. Beauty salon prices may not be current at the time of viewing. The data was obtained by randomly analyzing the price lists of ten beauty salons in Moscow to provide general information on how much the service costs.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Why is autumn considered the optimal season for chemical peeling?
All because in autumn period the sun loses its activity and direct sunlight does not affect the skin with ultraviolet rays. The chemical peeling process has a destructive effect on it. The skin needs time to recover, and direct exposure to sunlight will only interfere with the regeneration process.

What side effects can there be after a chemical peel procedure?

• swelling
• blistering
• itchy skin

Many celebrities undergo this peeling procedure. For example, a famous actress uses mild chemical peeling with glycolic acid Julia Roberts.
A Carmen Electra During her career, she experimented more than once not only with her image, changing hair color, hairstyles and clothing styles, but also with her appearance. The star actively uses cosmetological techniques to maintain her beauty. In particular, she performs Botox injections, various facial massages and chemical peels.

Contraindications for the procedure

Chemical peeling is contraindicated: for any neoplasms, “warts”, hypersensitivity skin, during solar activity, tendency to form keloid scars, visible skin damage, allergies to drugs, during exacerbation of acne.

Result after chemical peeling procedure

From the second week, the skin will take on a renewed appearance. Chemical peeling tones and regenerates the skin, giving it a velvety feel. With the help of peeling, wrinkles and deep age spots are noticeably reduced or eliminated, and the skin texture is evened out.

Chemical peeling at home

Chemical peeling at home should be done with extreme caution. Make the choice of a suitable acid together with a cosmetologist, or use superficial peeling by purchasing professional product with glycolic acid. After all, this acid activates the work of hyaluronic acid, making the skin elastic and helping to get rid of “blackheads” (comedones). And keep in mind that after such a procedure you cannot go outside without sunscreen, even in cloudy weather!

Chemical peeling (an alternative name is chemical exfoliation) is becoming increasingly relevant among cosmetic procedures. This method of cleansing the surface of the face is highly effective and low-traumatic. In addition, this effect on the skin allows you to solve age-related problems of the dermis.

Although the very word “chemistry” often causes mistrust (if not horror) among patients, in fact such an intervention is not at all scary. Of course, in the hands of an amateur, a container with solutions will bring nothing but problems to the skin. But high-quality cleaning performed by a cosmetologist-dermatologist will leave a pleasant impression and give your face a renewed and well-groomed appearance.

Chemical peeling – what is it? What are the features of this procedure? Who is it suitable for, and in what cases should it be avoided?

What is a chemical peel? This procedure involves exfoliating the upper layer of the epidermis, consisting of dead, keratinized cells. Such manipulation is carried out with special preparations. This cleaning method allows you to smooth out or completely remove age spots or other defects, even out the surface of the face, and give it a natural shade.

Women who decide to undergo this cleansing for the first time often wonder: chemical facial peeling - what is it? It’s not for nothing that this method is called “derma renewer”. In addition to their cleansing functions, acidic compounds perfectly rejuvenate cells, launching the processes of collagen and elastin synthesis. Thus, chemical exfoliation is a universal procedure that solves several cosmetic problems at once.

Why do you need a chemical facial peel? Its primary task is to exfoliate the upper, keratinized layers of the epidermis, thereby creating a cleansing effect. This technique allows you to improve the condition of the dermis without surgery.

This procedure is also used to prevent the processes of integument withering or to correct existing age-related changes.

After chemical peeling, the skin becomes soft, cleansed and renewed.

How does peeling work? Acid exfoliation is a burn upper layers epidermis. Although this sounds scary, there is nothing scary in this formulation, because the depth of the drug’s effect is controlled by a cosmetologist. In response to a burn, the body launches recovery mechanisms, due to which it is possible to achieve rejuvenation and renewal of the integument, as well as solve multiple cosmetic problems.

Under the influence of a burn, active division of dermal cells begins, the regeneration process accelerates and the appearance of facial skin improves.

There are the following types of chemical peeling:

• deep peeling;
• middle cleansing;
• superficial exfoliation.

A cosmetologist will help you determine which type of chemical peeling for the face will be best in a particular case.

For your information. In case of existing indications, you can conduct sessions of unconventional, original cleaning, for example, blue peeling, etc.

Deep

Deep chemical peeling of the face involves burning the dermis down to the mesh layer. This manipulation is carried out exclusively in medical centers. The patient is given anesthesia, and the procedure itself is carried out under the supervision of an anesthesiologist-rheumatologist. Deep peeling involves a long rehabilitation period (6 to 10 months).

For your information. If the procedure was carried out without anesthesia, and the patient was sent home the same day, provided only with auxiliary means, it is time to suspect a catch. Most likely, under the guise of deep cleansing (for the appropriate price), a middle cleansing of the facial surface was carried out.

The main goals of deep exfoliation are:

• replacement of an outdated collagen-elastin frame.
• Stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid to provide optimal levels of hydration from within.
• Renewal of cellular resources of the dermis.

Average

Medium (medium) chemical peeling of the skin acts deeper and more thoroughly than the superficial one. But he is unable to renew the collagen-elastin framework and completely renew the dermis.

For your information. Competition among cosmetologists has provoked an unprecedented surge in the popularity of medial exfoliation. Often they begin to use it from the age of 18. But until the age of 35-40, there is no need to practice such a procedure unless absolutely necessary.

The main goals of this skin cleansing method are:

• Active cell renewal in the upper layers of the dermis, smoothing and compacting it.
• “Pulling up” the level of collagen production to the previous, “young” level.
• Strengthening vascular walls, improving blood microcirculation.
• Slowing down melanin synthesis.

What does your face look like after acid peeling? Basically, such manipulation does not cause pain or negative reactions of the dermis. But in some cases, post-peeling scars or areas of skin with hypopigmentation may form, sharply contrasting with the rest of the skin.

Surface

Superficial chemical peeling of the face has almost no effect on the deep layers of the dermis, affecting only its upper layers. That is, such drugs do not contain the necessary active components for cell renewal.

In cosmetology, there are several main purposes of surface peeling:

• Stimulation of renewal of the upper layers of the dermis.
• Cleansing the sebaceous glands.
• Exfoliation of dead cells.
• Antibacterial effect.
• Elimination of hyperkeratosis.
• Alignment of the surface and tone of the dermis.
• Inhibitory effect on melanocytes, which control hyperpigmentation.

• People with teenage or young skin prone to oiliness, acne, acne or post-acne.
• Patients 25-35 years old to maintain good appearance skin and solutions to skin problems.
• People 35-40 years old as preparation for deep exfoliation.

The chemical facial peeling procedure includes the following steps:

1. Cleansing the skin, removing makeup, degreasing the areas where the composition is planned to be applied.
2. Cosmetologist wets a cotton applicator in chemical solution, squeezes it out carefully. The last action is performed to avoid the drug getting into the patient’s eyes.
3. The doctor rubs the solution with an applicator into the client's facial skin (this takes about 30 minutes). The specific time depends on the characteristics and general condition of the skin.
4. The “route” of movements is built in this way: forehead – nose – cheeks – chin. With maximum care, the drug is rubbed into wrinkles and creases. During work, the patient may feel a slight burning sensation.
5. Keep the composition on the face. The time is determined individually for each type of dermis.
6. At the end of the chemical peeling procedure, the drug is removed from the surface of the skin.
7. Application of protective and regenerating mask compositions.

The chemical peeling procedure for the face requires the use of special preparations. They are selected according to the individual characteristics of the client’s dermis. The main components of these solutions are:

• Beta hydroxy acids.
• Fruit acids.
• Other types of acids: azelaic, retinoic, kojic, trichloroacetic, pyruvic, mandelic. Most often a combination of these acids is used.

Fruit

The so-called AHA acids or alpha hydroxy acids. These include citric, glycolic, malic, lactic and tartaric acids.

Main properties of AHA acids:

• Stimulation of hydration of the epidermis.
• The ability to accelerate the exfoliation of the upper layers of skin.
• Antioxidant effect.
• Damaging effect on pathogenic organisms, which are the main cause of dermatological diseases.

Beta hydroxy acids

The so-called BHA acids. Unlike fruit acids, these acids are poorly soluble in water and well soluble in fats.

Chemical peeling with BHA acids is used mainly for oily skin. These substances have a similar effect to AHA acids, additionally affecting the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Under the influence of such acids, sebum softens, which prevents the formation of acne, urea and comedones.

The main representative of beta-hydroxy acids is salicylic acid.

Retinoic, kojic, azelaic

Includes all properties inherent in hydroxy acids. These substances also reduce the activity of melanocytes by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The effect after peeling with these acids is predominantly whitening - pigment spots, freckles, acne and post-acne disappear. Peeling with these acids is relevant for clients suffering from rosacea.

Popular preparations for chemical peeling:

• Russia. PREMIUM Professional.
• Australia. Skin Doctors (products suitable for home use).
• Japan. Bb Laboratories and
• USA. NeoStrata.
• France. BeautyMed.

Despite the obvious benefits, chemical facial peeling has contraindications and side effects. The latter do not always occur, but only in a number of cases when the recommendations for the procedure were not followed or due to the individual reactions of the patient’s skin.

Acid peeling can provoke the following consequences:

• Swelling.
• Pain syndrome.
• Scar formation.
• Redness.
• Introduction of infections.
• Allergy.
• Hypo- or hyperpigmentation.
• Peeling of the skin, formation of crusts.

The cosmetic procedure of acid peeling has the following contraindications:

• Pregnancy, breastfeeding.
• Colds.
• Chronic diseases in acute form.
• Tendency to form scars.
• Fresh tan.
• Traumatic procedures performed less than 2 months ago (laser resurfacing, deep cleaning, etc.).
• Mental illnesses.
• Oncological diseases.
• Hypertrichosis.
• Nevi, warts, papillomas on the face.
• Skin hypersensitivity.
• Injuries in the area of ​​application (abrasions, wounds, scratches).
• Hypertension.
• Individual intolerance to the ingredients of the composition.
• Cuperosis.
• Menstruation.
• Patient's age (less than 18 years).

What results can you expect from a chemical facial peel? This indicator will also be individual, because much depends on the client’s skin type. There are 4 main skin types. Peeling can be carried out on each of them, but with different results.

1 type No wrinkles, the client needs three peelings using weak acids. The procedure aims to prevent aging and is carried out once a year.

Type 2 The presence of facial wrinkles in the corners of the eyes, deep creases during the manifestation of emotions, and local areas of hyperpigmentation. Sevenfold peeling with fruit acids is recommended. It needs to be done twice a year.

Type 3 Impaired pigmentation, wrinkles around the eyes, mouth, and forehead. Regular peeling with fruit acids is recommended.

Type 4 Disturbed pigmentation, multiple deep creases on the surface of the skin. In these cases, fruit acids are not enough. It is recommended to cleanse three times with trichloroacetic acid and further peels with glycolic acid.

The best results after chemical peeling are usually achieved by the epidermis of skin types 2 and 3. But representatives of type 4 can also count on improvement in their skin condition, provided that the specialist does the right thing.

After chemical peeling, the face becomes cleansed and renewed. High-quality exfoliation helps achieve additional results:

• Skin rejuvenation.
• Softening, giving velvety to the surface.
• Toning.
• Regeneration.
• Smoothing of small wrinkles, reduction of deep ones.
• Tearing out the skin texture.
• Elimination of pigment spots.

Summary

Chemical peeling for the face - modern and effective method skin cleansing. This procedure is suitable for those who want to have a clean face, as well as for clients who want to restore youth to their skin. After applying acid peeling, the skin regains its beautiful freshness, even tone and softness.

Having decided to write an article on the topic “Chemical peelings,” I did not doubt for a second that I would not be doing this alone, because in practice, cosmetologists perform superficial-medium, medium and deep peels, and perform superficial nurses in cosmetology. Therefore, in writing this article I took Active participation and mine " right hand" - Alexandra.

Everyone knows that since 2009, the profession of “cosmetologist” has officially appeared in Russia, a well-known division into “household services” and “cosmetology services” has taken place, and hair salons that offered “Botox injections” have become a thing of the past. Nowadays, medical centers providing cosmetology services usually employ cosmetologists and cosmetology nurses. And this is no coincidence. The initial consultation, of course, is carried out by doctors, but then there is a “separation of powers”, all injection procedures are performed by cosmetologists, and procedures without damaging the skin are performed by cosmetology nurses. These include all types of cleanings (including ultrasonic and mechanical), massages, cosmetic treatments, eyebrow and eyelash architecture, various options hair removal and depilation, as well as superficial chemical peels.

Chemical peeling

Today, probably not. better procedures, which simultaneously solves such a wide range of skin problems as chemical peeling. The properties of acids to renew the skin through controlled damage suggest solving problems such as seborrhea and acne, scars, age-related skin changes (in particular, static wrinkles), hyperpigmentation of various origins, rosacea, etc. Is chemical peeling a panacea for all skin imperfections? Let's find out in this article.

Chemical peeling is a controlled damage to the skin using chemical agents in order to correct the aesthetic imperfections of the skin. The chemicals used are preparations containing AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acids). Among the AHA acids, the most popular are lactic, mandelic, glycolic, and pyruvic. Among BHA acids, salicylic acid remains a favorite.

Chemical peels are classified according to the depth of impact: superficial (level of the stratum corneum), superficial-medium (work at the level of the entire epidermis), medium (impact up to the basement membrane with partial work at the level of the papillary dermis) and deep (up to the border of the reticular dermis). It should be noted that in cosmetology, superficial and medium peels are more often used. Deep peelings (phenolic) are currently performed extremely rarely, which is associated with the high toxicity of the drug (both for the patient and for the cosmetologist himself) and the development of hardware methods for correcting cosmetic defects, which are not inferior in effectiveness to deep peelings, but have minimal risk side effects and complications.

Question to the expert

Natalya Anatolyevna, you have been a recognized expert for many years in the field of chemical peels. How has the concept of chemical peels changed recently and what place do they occupy in modern aesthetic medicine at the moment?

Peeling without destroying the basement membrane (can be of different composition - chemical, enzymatic, retinoic; can be presented in different forms– lotion, gel, cream, mask, etc.) allows you to quickly and without consequences bring the skin into a presentable form, very carefully and safely stimulate its renewal, is a relatively inexpensive procedure of choice for the vast majority of patients and should occupy a strong position in aesthetic medicine . More traumatic types of peeling are also effective, but should be used less frequently and with more strictly verified indications. Over the past few years, I have only strengthened in this position, but the general situation demonstrates that nowadays, even during the initial visit to a cosmetologist, even patients who have no previous experience of non-traumatic care procedures are increasingly offered injection and hardware methods of influence. And patients, motivated by the media and the fear of not being like everyone else, of being irrevocably late in the fight against aging, sincerely believe in the correctness of this approach. In this case, a paradoxical picture is often observed - many invasive expensive procedures have been performed, but the condition of the skin itself leaves much to be desired. And I just want to do a light, very superficial peel or mask and wipe the skin with lotion.

Selection of peeling

When choosing a peeling, we will rely on the following criteria:

1. The concentration of active ingredients, that is, the percentage of acid input (the higher the concentration of chemical agents, the stronger the peeling effect and the higher the result, but at the same time the irritating ability also increases).
2. Peeling pH. This indicator is often forgotten, but a change of just 0.5 can radically change the skin's response. For example, glycolic peeling with pH 2.5, when applied correctly, will provoke a gentle exfoliation of horny scales, lightening of pigmentation, stimulate the division of keratinocytes and enhance metabolic processes in the skin. However, glycolic peeling with pH 2.0 is no longer recommended for patients with subtype 1 rosacea, as it will provoke a vascular reaction.
3. Peeling texture: gel or in the form of a solution (water-alcohol). With gel, the depth of penetration depends on the exposure time, penetration is slow, and, accordingly, there is less skin irritation. Before neutralization, it must be washed off with water. With aqueous-alcoholic, the depth of penetration depends on the number of layers applied; you must wait for each layer to dry and very carefully monitor the skin's reaction; if bright erythema or frost appears, immediately neutralize it.

The depth of chemical peeling and the number of procedures are selected individually by a cosmetologist or dermatologist and directly depend on the patient’s health (carefully collected medical history), age, skin condition and phototype. Recently, special attention has also been paid to profession and lifestyle, which is associated with possible rehabilitation (peeling, redness, the appearance of a feeling of “tightening”, etc.).

Skin phototypes: Fitzpatrick classification

There is a Fitzpatrick skin classification that describes the degree of skin pigmentation and tanning ability. This classification divides the skin according to risk factors for complications of chemical peeling. Fitzpatrick identifies six skin types, taking into account both skin color and reaction to the sun:

• Type I Celtic
  The skin is delicate, milky white, often with freckles, red or very blonde hair and blue or green eyes. The formation of melanin in the skin is insignificant, sunburn is possible, the tan practically does not last (more often residents of Ireland, Scandinavia, Scotland. Example: Renee Zellweger, Nicole Kidman)
• Type II Light European
  Typical blondes. The skin is fair, with few or no freckles. The hair is light brown, from light brown to gray brown. Eyes blue, gray, greenish. The tan does not apply well, leaving a slight golden tint (approximately 70% of the European population. Example: Marilyn Monroe, Charlize Theron)
• III type. Dark European
  Skin color changes seasonally. In winter, the skin is light and has a high contrast with the hair. IN summer period When tanning, the contrast between skin and hair decreases sharply, and the skin acquires a dark tint. Hair ranges from medium brown to dark brown, medium brown to dark brown. Eyes from light brown to dark brown, gray-green, dark green (population of Kazakhstan, Central Asia. Example: Natalie Portman, Audrey Hepburn)
• IV type. Mediterranean or Southern European
  Dark olive skin. Hair ranges from dark brown to dark chocolate color. The eyes are rich brown shades, the iris contrasts sharply with the bluish white of the eyes. Skin of this type quickly acquires an even bronze tan (representatives of Armenia, Italy. Example: Monica Bellucci, Salma Hayek)
• V type Indonesian, or Middle Eastern
  The skin is very complex with yellow tint. Hair ranges from dark brown to black. Eyes are rich brown, closer to black (residents of China, India, Korea. Example: Lucy Liu, Nicole Scherzinger)
• VI type. African Americans
  The skin is very dark (ethnic). Hair and eyes are as dark as possible. This type has the highest level of melanin (indigenous population of the African continent. Example: Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell)

For our region, phototypes I to IV are most relevant.

Patients with type I and II skin with significant photodamage require constant sun protection before and after a chemical peel procedure. However, the risk of developing hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation in these individuals is quite low. Patients with skin types III and IV after chemical peels are at greater risk of pigmentary dyschromia - hyper- or hypopigmentation - and may require pre- and post-application of not only a sunscreen, but also a bleaching agent to prevent these complications. The risk of pigmentation disturbance is not too great after a very superficial or superficial peel, but it can become a significant problem after a medium or deep chemical peel.

The use of peelings: pros and cons

Let's take a closer look at the skin renewal process, dividing its pros and cons.

Positive effects of peelings associated with effects at the level of the epidermis and dermis:

1. Chemical acids stimulate the division of keratinocytes, enhance the synthesis of signaling molecules; the epidermis becomes denser, elastic and homogeneous.
2. The growth of new blood vessels begins, which are necessary for delivery to the area of ​​restoration work building materials, cellular elements, as well as the removal of metabolites.
3. Under the influence of growth factors, fibroblasts are activated, which begin to build a collagen framework. This framework facilitates the movement of keratinocytes that restore the epidermis.

This process leads to smoothing of the skin, increasing its firmness and elasticity.

However, it is important to remember side effects of chemical peels that arise due to non-compliance with post-peeling care or an incorrectly selected procedure:

1. Keratinocytes (the main cells of the epidermis - the surface layer of the skin), experiencing stress, release substances that stimulate the process of melanin formation, which can ultimately trigger the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
2. The occurrence of persistent hyperemia (redness).
3. Exacerbation of a dermatological disease (most often in their practice, cosmetologists encounter an exacerbation of herpes infection).
4. Scars (most often occur after medium peels; it is for this reason that these techniques can only be performed by certified specialists).

The history of chemical peeling goes back more than 3,000 years; back in the day, milk fermentation products (lactic acid) were used by Egyptians to lighten their faces. In the 1980s, after studying the effects of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and phenol on the skin, the first chemical peel procedure was performed in the United States. In Russia, the procedure appeared relatively recently - in the late 90s, but today it is one of the most popular, carried out in a cosmetology office.

Expert opinion

I would clearly distinguish between the meaning of non-traumatic peels, which do not lead to irreversible changes in the skin, and peels that damage the basal layer.

I deliberately avoid the terms “superficial” and “deep”, since there is no single attitude on this issue.

For those who deal primarily with invasive techniques, peeling throughout the entire epidermis, but without destroying the basal layer, will still be superficial, and for those who are afraid of even minor peeling and redness, simply contact with living epidermal cells will be a sign of a deep impact. And these can be both doctors and cosmetologists with secondary medical education. I have seen many dermatologists who are afraid to apply even a cream or lotion with a small concentration of acids to themselves.

So, from the point of view of the “efficiency/safety” profile, in my opinion, are various options exfoliation within the stratum corneum with infrequent (2-3 times a year) deepening to the layers of living cells, without damaging the basal layer. This kind of peeling should be one of the main tools of a cosmetologist. Recovery after such peeling occurs quickly and completely. According to my observations, people who receive regular, very careful and non-aggressive care, part of which, if necessary, includes light peeling, combined with compliance with basic rules healthy image life, maintain good skin condition for a very long time. And if heredity is also good, then there is no need to resort to skin-damaging manipulations at all.

But this is from the point of view common sense and a non-profit approach to the problem.

In fact, on the one hand, there is an increase in the comfort of life and the emergence of free time, which allows you to think too much about your beloved self, which means that you are increasingly afraid of old age, “ugliness,” and inconsistency with fashion trends invented by someone.

On the other hand, there is an overproduction of not only goods, but also ideas, which are not always optimal and necessary, but allow you to make money.

And the change in trends and preferences occurring in aesthetic medicine is not so much the result of truly scientific achievements as a reflection of the processes taking place in society.

Recently, in some countries, including Russia, there has been a shift towards the use of injection and hardware techniques. This is fashionable, well advertised, and is subconsciously perceived as a more radical method of influence, since a syringe or complex equipment is traditionally associated with something more effective than a tablet or ointment. And, what is very important, it is profitable; per unit of time, you get significantly more profit than when performing treatments, massages, or teaching gymnastics. It is very difficult for all participants in the process (doctors, patients, and manufacturers) to accept that despite enormous technological progress, we are still very far from the ability to radically influence the processes that determine age and other characteristics of the body. “We are flying into space, which means that cosmetic devices and high-tech preparations should decide everything,” - this is the logic that is typical of many. Under the influence of these factors, doctors believe much more in injections and devices than in simple manipulations, including superficial peeling.

It is no coincidence that I say “doctors believe” and not “doctors have proven, doctors know”, because despite the ever-increasing requirements for training, the increasing number of congresses and conferences, the general level of understanding of what is truly proven facts and what is desired , wishful thinking remains low. Everyone wants to “rejuvenate” and effectively “rejuvenate”. And this determines the perception of information and practical data: we see what we want to see, we believe in what we want and it is profitable to believe. In fact, very simple and accessible effects are still relevant for complete skin care.