Ethnic clothing style includes a rich list of national trends. In the multi-colored list, the Russian style stands out with its bright attractiveness and original execution. In clothing of the current trend, a characteristic feature is considered to be an organic combination of folk motifs with the latest trends in world fashion. Almost all modern couturiers, when creating their next collections, do not ignore the expressive and colorful style.

Historical basis of the current trend

Russian fashion began its victorious march around the world almost a hundred years ago. The impetus for this was the revolutionary events of 1917. As a result of great transformations, a mass of people were forced to leave their historical homeland and go into distant, unknown emigration. In addition to family jewelry, wealthy people also took out wardrobes filled with rich outfits in the traditional Russian style.

The variety of bright colors, unusual styles of dresses, amazing headdresses and other spectacular elements of folk costume attracted the attention of Europeans and aroused genuine admiration and delight. Russian style smoothly migrated to all areas of life. The use of original color in hotels, restaurants, and on stage was considered good form.

Straight clothes decorated with folklore patterns entered European fashion. Even the most famous people chose men's blouses, colorful shawls, and tall kokoshniks. Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo used decorations in their outfits precious stones beading and embroidery in the spirit of Russian motifs.

The final approval of the style in the 20s of the last century occurred thanks to the emergence of fashion houses among Russian designers in Europe. An exclusively national spirit was in the air here, supported by noble immigrants from Russia.

Russian style in women's clothing - beauty and practicality

The harsh climate required people to wear a lot of different things.

• An undershirt is a mandatory element of a suit for women and men. Linen products were sewn freely, not restricting movement. The shirt was supposed to be tied with a belt.

• Poneva is a gathered underskirt that fits tightly around the waist. Created additional volume and insulation.

• A sundress or dress is the main outerwear for women. The loose cut line, expanding from the chest down, hid the outlines of the silhouette. Clothes were made from cotton, linen or wool.

On top they put on soul warmers, sweaters, and shawls over their shoulders. Multilayer clothing provided comfort and kept the body well warm.

In rainy weather, they chose epancha - a sleeveless cloth cloak. Fur coats worn by representatives of all segments of the population reliably protected from frost. Ordinary people sewed clothes from sheepskin or hare. The nobility wore sable, silver fox, and marten. The fur coats were long and heavy with a wide round collar. They were worn with the fur inside, covered with thick cloth, velvet or brocade on top.

Hands were covered from the cold with knitted or fur mittens. At home, women wore kokoshniks on their heads. When going outside, they tied scarves on top or put on round fur hats.

Modern clothes with elements of Russian style (Photo)

Typical symbols of the national trend are matryoshka dolls, Khokhloma painting, posad woolen shawls, Orenburg down scarves. They provide the basis for translating design ideas into modern clothes.

Stylistic outfits include many traditional elements of Russian style:

• Styles. The cut of Russian clothing is aimed at creating maximum convenience and comfort. It is characterized by straight or bell-shaped skirts, long sundresses with wide straps, dresses with a high waistline. All fabrics are only of natural origin: cotton, linen, silk, wool.

• Costume details. Collars are predominantly round and turn-down. The sleeves are narrow, straight or short, puffy in the form of lanterns. Basques, lace-up belts, and ribbons in the form of fasteners are often used.

• Colors. The combination of white with red and all its shades looks most impressive. Green, black, yellow, and golden colors are also relevant.

• Drawings. Folklore themes provide unlimited scope for design imagination. Clothes in the Russian national style, painted with floral patterns, ancient Slavic ornaments, fabulous animals and birds, invariably attract the attention of others and cause delight. Beautiful images embroidered with colored threads, beads, small stones, woven with thin ribbons and golden laces look especially impressive.

• Lace, braid, hemstitch. Preferably use finishing self made. An intricate and complex pattern significantly distinguishes the Russian style from other ethnic trends, making it unique and original.

• Patchwork clothing(patchwork) – a typical example of Russian style. Thrifty Russian housewives never threw away pieces of fabric left after cutting. They were used to create pillowcases, colorful blankets, and rugs. Today, based on Pavloposad scarves, you can create unique models of things. The technical complexity of the execution is justified by the stunning result.

• Accessories. Excellent style decorations include floral wreaths, colorful ribbons, beads, and bracelets made of leather and wood. Stylized earrings and a kokoshnik embroidered with beads and stones give a great effect to the look. You can’t do without using colorful shawls, scarves, and capes.

How to create a fashionable image?

Modern clothing in Russian folk style is a layering of motifs from traditional patterns and ornaments onto current items of clothing.

When creating a new look, it is not at all necessary to use only stylistic elements. Enough to diversify your casual look one or two characteristic items. For example, long summer sundress decorate with patterned braid and wear shoes with a floral print. You can also complement the ensemble with several strands of pearl beads and choose a handbag to match the main color of the dress.

Building another fashionable image, do not forget that the main principle of Russian style is femininity and chastity. Therefore, it is better to avoid trousers, open and tight-fitting clothes. The beauty of a woman should be presented with dignity and modesty.

And finally

Designer clothes in the Russian style are relevant all over the world to this day. Under the influence of national characteristics, many new clothing models are created, decorated with original details, patterns and ornaments. Many famous couturiers of our time never tire of drawing their inspiration from folk traditions, gifted with timeless Russian style.

Discover the wonderful world of Russian style in women's clothing. World podium in different countries and continents, he appreciated the originality and relevance of outfits in the Russian style.

Ksenia Sobchak in a Pavlovo Posad scarf

Alena Vodonaeva

Miroslava Duma

She also won the hearts of her contemporaries: sheepskin coats, trousers, and hats with earflaps. Although they came to Russia in the fifth century from the Baltic states, they were accepted here only in the nineteenth century and since then have been considered native Russians. In a sewing workshop in St. Petersburg, the hat was improved and ribbons were added to it. Since the Great Patriotic War Ushanka hats have also found their way into women’s wardrobes.

Because of its practicality and ability to transform, hats with earflaps are still in fashion today. And thanks to the imagination of our designers, they come into the wardrobe of fashionistas all over the world in new and new variations. They are wonderfully accompanied by improved models of boots, cases for mobile phones, wallets, handbags, belts, mittens and many other accessories of the same Russian folk style.

Interpretation of a hat with earflaps in the collection of Jean-Paul Gaultier

It did not go unused, of course, and thanks to which children all over the world began to resemble the kids from bast pictures. If such clothes are made according to folk canons and only from natural materials, then they become very high quality, beautiful and comfortable. All mothers who have given preference to the Russian style in children's clothing will confirm that modern folk clothes for children are very comfortable, beautiful and healthy. Loose-fitting shirts, blouses, sundresses and skirts, decorated with cute embroidery and lace, give children a touching doll-like look.

Clothes in Russian folk style

Ethnic motifs in the outfits of contemporaries are increasingly popularized. Elements can already be guessed in collections based on the fashion of other countries. But many characteristic details have also been introduced into our culture, for example, from Indian (paisley or “paisley”), Scottish (original checkered), gypsy attire (variegated bouffant skirts) and so on. Of course, both Russian and any other clothes are slightly “modernized”, but the main idea remains: these are loose, comfortable, practical outfits. In the national style, the best fashion houses today offer their own versions of outfits.

Ulyana Sergeenko is a famous Russian-style clothing designer

Outfits from the collection of Ulyana Sergeenko

For example, dresses of wide models, with elastic bands, embroidery and pleats at the neck. The sleeves are raglan, short, with gathered elastic at the cuffs. The edge of their hem is slightly rounded. In folk traditions, the material is natural (most often linen, cotton and even hemp). Long checkered shirts, slightly elongated, with a comfortable hood. A short clasp is placed at the front in the middle or on the side (variant of a shirt). The sleeves are rolled up and secured with a strap. There is an elastic band on the hips. Beautiful and comfortable!

Russian motifs in the Gaultier collection

Especially often used in women's wardrobes, children's dresses with frills and edging made of snow-white lace with fine embroidery are also decorated. There is a loose elastic band at the top of the dress, the straps are detachable; padded with a fine cotton lining. Flannel shirts, sundresses in the Russian style, linen tunics, blouses, ribbons, hair bands, trouser belts, woven dresses with straps, knitted children's and women's capri pants and many other clothes in the Russian folk style are also decorated with ornaments. And if once upon a time for poor peasants embroidery or lace was the only way to add a festive touch to their usual outfit, today analogues of those decorations are equated to high art.

As a result, the conclusion suggests itself that a modern fashionable person must be able to masterfully combine denim clothing and Russian ethnic motifs in his wardrobe. Even business dress, decorated in Russian folk style, will look luxurious at the most formal receptions. Therefore, allow yourself to show your essence as a Russian person not only in actions, words and thoughts, but also in clothes.

Russian folk clothing photo

Natalya Vodyanova

Ulyana Sergeenko in a coat from John Galliano

Miroslava Duma

It is no secret that recently models have appeared on the catwalks of European and American fashion weeks, whom couturiers have dressed in Russian shirts, furs, and zhupans. Why did the Russian style become fashionable?

The answer is obvious: we live in a globalized world, and although the field of fashion design is dominated by the motifs of those countries that were pioneers in the modeling business, our craftsmen are also not sitting idle. The supply of clothing with Russian elements is growing every year. Let’s try to briefly highlight this issue for you, especially since during the cold season this trend is especially relevant, and you will find out why by reading further.

A little bit of history

Traditionally, casual and designer clothing predominantly included national motifs from those countries that gave the world the most famous fashion houses and beauty magazines - France, Italy, and the USA.

And this is not surprising, because admiration gives rise to imitation, this is the law of both fashion and human nature.

And the first fashion residents in the West were Russian designers Vyacheslav Zaitsev and Valentin Yudashkin, not counting those who left in search of better life country, great later, tailors.

But modern fashionable Russia lives not only with Valentin Yudashkin, but also with a number of designer, independent fashion houses. Talents appear every year, and some of their ideas are even intercepted in the West.

Of course, not all classical elements of the Russian style can be implemented in mass production. Let’s say that some retro solutions for designer clothes in the original Russian style suggest such things as “povoinik” or “koruna”.

Not only that, only specialist historians know what it really is and who wore it with what before. But also, the theoretical mass production of these outfits would not have been possible without the involvement of manual labor. Such a hand-made product would greatly increase the cost of tailoring and would transfer such solutions to the category of “haute couture”.

By the way, a warrior was a special hat for every day for a woman, made of colorful rich fabric with lush folds at the back of the head. And the crown - on the contrary, for a girl for a holiday, with foil inserts, beaded sewing, like the crown of the Snow Maiden. Now you know what the difference is, but you are unlikely to come across this item in a clothing store.

Historical costume or fashion item?

Strictly speaking, modern trendy clothing in the Russian folk style is mainly borrowing elements of the Russian national costume. Not a complete set, as if from an exhibition in a historical museum, but only the most authentic ideas that, for some unknown reason, inspired this or that designer.

Surely you are wondering how to recognize that this is not an antique outfit, but a fashion trend?

For designers, this trend is subject to certain rules. This includes a special palette that you can use, prints (fabric patterns), and decorative techniques that are loved by tailors and couturiers.

For example, the following motives are very often present:

• print with the image of “branchy” lines;
• foliage and grass ornaments;
• fine satin stitch embroidery with gold and silver threads;
• catchy colors, especially red and blue;
• sable or real sable fur;
• heavy fabrics with a brocade effect;
• “autumn” palette – rich tones.

The fantasy of fashion designers does not end there, but already knowing at least this list, you can feel more or less aware of the trend.

A few words about decor

A very important component of such clothing is jewelry. It is embroidery, sewing with gold threads and pearls, in simplified versions with beads, that is probably the most recognizable sign that this is fashion for Russian antiquity. Moreover, the trend will be that thing that meets two criteria for such decor - an abundance of finishing and technology, like that of traditional craftswomen. Socialites try to combine such outfits with diamonds, but we do not recommend taking such risks - the contrast will be too great.

“Haute couture” with Russian folk motifs

Thanks to these unique elements, Russian-style clothing is of interest not only to Russian designers.

The famous Italians Dolce&Gabbana were inspired by it in their fall-winter 2012/13 collection, and this collection won recognition and honor from the Milan and Paris catwalks, which were not accustomed to Eastern European exoticism.

Clothes in the Russian style were present in the collections of Valentino, who used the motifs of blue and white Gzhel (antique Russian porcelain with a characteristic pattern), Jean-Paul Gaultier, who admired Soviet constructivism and created in this vein, Kenzo and many others.

A little earlier, almost the entire decade of the 1980s in Western Europe passed under the sign of Russian aesthetic influence in fashion, but here we hardly noticed this.

In the 90s, the trend changed to the opposite, and Russian designers borrowed Western European motifs for the outfits of our fashionistas with might and main.

But foreigners are foreigners, and the Russian style of clothing is most popular among Russian designers. Women's clothing and shoes with national elements are present in the collections of Alena Akhmadullina, Anna and Alexey Borodulin, Vyacheslav Zaitsev.

The following traditional elements are of greatest interest to these and other domestic designers:

• townsman shawls and scarves;
• thread painting;
• Khokhloma patterns;
• nesting dolls.

Returning from the clouds of high fashion to the ground in everyday life, let's think about what folk motifs will help you stand out in a crowd with monotonous Chinese and Turkish outfits.

What to wear to be on trend?

In the summer, a skirt with a floral pattern or a sundress with embroidery will definitely suit you. In Russia, they really love a long floor-length dress, always with a thin waist, but you can also choose an option with a high waistline.

A Russian woman at all times, more than anyone else, would like to look like an elegant rich woman, so don’t skimp on fabric so that when combined with a simple folk cut, you don’t look too simple, with a minus sign.

To give your image a frankly ethical look, you can wear a blouse, the female version of which has been called “camp” since ancient times. Dilute these looks with something modern, for example, straight-cut jeans or, if your figure allows, tight skinny jeans. Or choose plain beige, gray, khaki, black trousers, in a word - something basic that will serve as a background to the main thing and will not interrupt its sound in the ensemble.

Winter clothing in an expressive Russian style is, of course, sheepskin coats and coats with fur trim, scarves, boyarka hats. Few self-respecting ladies from the upper classes in pre-revolutionary Russia allowed themselves to go out in public without fur clothing in winter, but even now the presence of fur in their wardrobe will please any fashionista. Despite the movement to protect animals, Russian luxury will never be complete without natural sable.

If you are far from the idea of ​​wearing natural fur coat, try to achieve the same effect with faux fur, but be careful, as faux fur comes in different varieties and looks cheap and tasteless if the product is of low quality. If you still don’t wear fur because of savings, add at least a small fur accessory to your look - trim on gloves, handbag, hat, collar

One last tip: you don't have to design your entire wardrobe like this to be fashionable. By ordering from an atelier or sewing just one thing with a traditional Russian touch yourself, you will attract people’s attention and show yourself as a cultured girl interested in the history of the country. Now these are not just words, but a fashion trend!

Nevertheless, leading couturiers use elements of national clothing and, even more so, decorative techniques characteristic of Russian-style clothing in their collections. And it invariably becomes a sensation in world fashion.

Such masters as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Vyacheslav Zaitsev tried to work in a truly Russian style. The too original and often ethnic style did not succumb to the influence of the fashion masters. But the most striking details were used in the best collections.

Russian style in modern clothing in these photos of collections of world fashion houses speaks for itself:

Clothes in Russian folk style from Nadezhda Lamanova

Such clothes have their own value. Outfits and silhouettes characteristic of truly Russian style became the idea for creating original outfits.

Clothing in the Russian folk style was first introduced into fashion by Nadezhda Lamanova. She sewed dresses for the last Russian empress and her daughters - this is a true symbol of modern Russian style. No lubok or kokoshniks, only a modern interpretation of silhouettes and luxurious handmade finishing. Nadezhda Lamanova managed to preserve not only her Moscow Fashion House until the mid-50s of the last century, but also her style.

People dressed for her and considered it an honor for the stars of that era - actresses and simply the most beautiful women in Moscow who could afford such luxury. Nadezhda Lamanova literally revived unique beadwork, strict and feminine silhouettes of dresses in the national style, skillfully multiplying them with European trends. A famous place for any fashionista, “Kuznetsky Most” and modern clothes in the Russian style are her merit.

They tried to revive the same trend, but with less success, in Europe, thanks to the outspoken Russians - fur, brocade, etc. - modern designers still use these techniques today. One of the main silhouette solutions still remains the sundress, short fur coat and poneva - wide and long with a fold. Analogues of such a skirt are found only in historical European costumes.

If you think that the manner of tying a scarf - preferably - like a badana or across the neck, as Hollywood stars do - covering their hair - is a modern trend, then you are mistaken. These are typical techniques typical of Russian women.

Women's clothing in the Russian style quite often becomes a source of inspiration for the world's best and top designers. But they use too obvious styles and techniques - like exotic ones: fur hats and brocade coats with a “lining” of precious fur.

Look how the Russian style of clothing looks on the catwalks in these photos:

Outer winter clothing in Russian style from Yves Saint Laurent

The Russian folk style in modern fashion was first appreciated by the master of luxury style, Yves Saint Laurent. He most likely liked the idea, which turned out to be relevant in the 70s of the last century. It was he who was the first to bring outerwear in the Russian style to the Parisian catwalks, namely.

Their prototype was the traditional sheepskin sheepskin coats worn in Russia. Of course, Yves Saint Laurent gave them a Parisian gloss, making them thinner, more graceful and elegant.

But it was he who brought into fashion this universal clothing, not as expensive as, and not as simple as. With him light hand they are still in fashion and are not going to leave trends.

But not a single modern clothing in the Russian folk style can compare in popularity with headdresses in the national style. The word “earflaps”, difficult to translate into any European language, has long become international. They are worn not only by tourists who are lucky enough to visit Russia, but also by everyone who likes informal ones and lives in a cold climate. It is characteristic that earflaps were originally an exclusively men’s headdress, but now the most notorious fashionistas flaunt them.

Winter clothing in the Russian style presented another impeccable trend - sable, silver fox or arctic fox. Oddly enough, this is also a men's style, which fashionistas willingly use.

There is one more, literally exclusive element in outerwear - Pavlov Posad scarves. The Moscow region manufactory, which dates back at least two hundred years, has created a unique style that cannot be repeated - complex floral patterns, printed designs on woolen or cotton fabric voluminous scarves are a Russian brand. It is highly valued by true fashionistas all over the world.

Fashionable clothes in Russian style for children and adults

This direction does not fit into the concepts of “ethnics” or “folklore”. Of course, you shouldn’t put together a total image in this style - just one, but bright detail is enough - a Pavlovo Posad scarf, worn like a sheepskin coat in the style that your great-grandmothers preferred, or embroidered felt boots (weather permitting). Fashionable clothes in the Russian style are a stylish mix with everyday things; by the way, they even go well with...

Russian style of clothing in 2017 is gaining new momentum. Young Russian designers have taken up the cause and are actively promoting the ideas of almost ideally feminine silhouettes and images. Against the backdrop of the general dominance of everyday and overly popular styles, frankly bright and stylish outfits look especially advantageous.

It has always been considered a typical detail of such an outfit. Expensive, elegant and bright - this is the tradition. Red boots of any style are especially valuable in such an outfit - without them, a harmoniously constructed image will remain unfinished.

It is noteworthy that the color black was very rarely used in national costumes; in Rus' (unlike, for example, Italy) it is the color of mourning. Burgundy, blue, beige, bright red, always paired with stark white - the true range of such outfits.

Traditionally, elements and symbolic signs of various provinces are used in decoration. Today they have already lost their original meaning as amulets and identification marks. But they still look very nice. The motives for decoration - hand embroidery, first of all, were flowers: from simple wildflowers to garden roses.

Not only clothes for adults, but also children's clothing in the Russian style deserve special attention. These are, first of all, stylish sundresses - the clothes are not only beautiful, but also as comfortable as possible. It is enough to change tops and T-shirts to look new every day. For many very young fashionistas, the question “what to wear?” important even at the age of 3-4 years.

Modern models have adopted great styles, but not the style - no folk design elements or decoration - it's just not fashionable. But teaching a girl to wear a headscarf or headscarf beautifully is a must. This is a great headwear for summer - when you need to cover your head, even tying it like a bandana. By the way, this style of wearing was generally accepted in Russia.

Clothes for children in the Russian style are made of sheepskin or sheepskin coats and embroidered or painted - weather permitting. Ideally warm and comfortable – including dressing yourself. In addition, such sets always look advantageous and impressive.

Three Russian brands prove:

traditions can be fashionable

In India it is easy to meet a woman in a sari, but it is unlikely that you have ever seen a man in a kosovorotka or a girl in a kokoshnik in the center of Moscow. “The national costume in everyday life will look more extravagant than fashionable,” admits Natalya Loginova, head of the D3 Fashion and Design Center (All-Russian Museum of Decorative, Applied and Folk Arts). “But turning to tradition is one of the trends in modern design.”

Russian style is returning to the catwalks and to life. But, oddly enough, few people can explain what it is. “Khokhloma? Matryoshka dolls? Yes and no,” says Loginova. “Vladimir Pozner once said that Russian style is, first of all, audacity. And I agree with this. Our designers are daring. And in recent years, more and more of them have appeared in Russia, although fashion is not the easiest way to make money."

We talk about three Russian fashion brands. Some of our heroes already have a showroom in the center of Moscow. Some people still only sell things online. But they all create in Russian. Boldly.

Embroidery, aprons, ancient motifs and a scientific approach

Svetlana Levadnaya, Levadnaja Details brand

“One woman saw our apron at the exhibition and immediately bought it. I tried to dissuade her,” says Svetlana Levadnaya. “Because it is not the cheapest thing, and not the most necessary in the 21st century. I was worried that my husband would not like such an expensive purchase... And he saw the apron and said: “Finally, you bought yourself something normal!”

"Russian is not yellow-red!" - says Svetlana. She is sure that most of our women suit muted colors

Things from Levadnaja Details are really not cheap: they are made only from natural fabrics (mainly silk, cashmere and Italian linen) and each has beaded embroidery and semiprecious stones, which takes at least a month of manual work. And not every girl can wear such clothes: try asking someone to tie an apron over their jeans or wear a kokoshnik with evening dress. “My clients are very strong and confident women,” says Svetlana. “The lost and confused do not come to us.”

Today, references to Russian folk costumes can already be seen both on the catwalk and at social events. Svetlana started her business in 2006 and says that back then they “looked at her like she was crazy.”

Svetlana Levadnaya

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The first skirt we made was knee length with a black velvet apron. And many people reacted to it like this: “God, what is this?” Everything national was unfashionable and incomprehensible. Sometimes I gave up - it seemed that this could not be changed

Svetlana Levadnaya

Designer Svetlana Levadnaya has never been a fashionista. But I have loved everything Russian since childhood. “When I was about nine years old, my mother ordered a blouse for me,” she recalls. “In a very Russian style, with embroidery, made of simple fabric. I remember that people on the street asked: “Where did you get this?”

Embroidery is the brand's calling card. One item takes at least a month of handmade work

Svetlana was born and raised in Crimea, studied in Germany, and in 2004 moved to Moscow. She is a linguist, translator, and took on her own brand scientifically: she studied museum exhibits and collected a whole library about embroidery and folk costumes. Svetlana wanted to do fashion in Russian. And the prototype of her models is not the Pavlovo Posad shawls, which were created only at the end of the 18th century. These are ancient things, even pre-Christian (Svetlana does not like the word “pagan”). With embroidery, mantles (these are something like wide collars) and amulets.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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For our scarves, we take patterns from books and museum exhibits. In fact, these are not just patterns. Every symbol there means something. All our clients want to know what. But no one will ever translate this language, at most individual characters. If someone tells you that they have read everything, don’t believe it.

Svetlana Levadnaya

The original Russian costume is now commonly called peasant costume. Because since the time of Peter I it could only be worn simple people. Opening a window to Europe, the tsar forbade the wearing of Russian clothing at court. One can argue for a long time whether this decision was correct - we will never know what our life would have been like without that “Europeanization”. Svetlana calls that decree “an arrow to the very heart.” “The Russian costume was never just clothes,” she explains. “It was a saga written in patterns. It told about the human race, about his desires... Compared to what was, we are like a weak sprout next to a powerful tree. But I can at least do this."

Mantles - something like collars - can be worn with dresses and simple T-shirts

Starting your own brand is not easy. It’s even more difficult to start selling things that are not even close to the mass market - neither in versatility nor in price. Svetlana collected money bit by bit. And having sold the first dress (then, 12 years ago, it cost 3-4 thousand euros), she invested the entire amount in boxes: “Decent packaging is the first thing to do. It shows that the designer respects his work.” Then there was the first small showroom. Levadnaya tried to expand and move every year. Today she has a large showroom in the center of Moscow.

Svetlana does not sew herself. But he has been painting since the age of five. She created a special embroidery for her brand.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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Many people, when they see her, immediately say: “Are you an artist?” This is not handicraft embroidery, this is embroidery painting. Now we have about 570 samples of it. I created them with my own hands, and then trained the first masters. This is our business card

Svetlana Levadnaya

The Levadnaja Details team has 20 embroiderers and four seamstresses. The showroom presents samples made for models. But the items you like are tailored to each specific customer. “You’re just tiny, so everything is a little big for you,” Svetlana tells me as I try on a dress made of pale blue linen. “But it should fit loosely, we have almost no tight-fitting clothes. This is an everyday thing - here a large one will do bag and comfortable shoes. I don't have the nerves to wear heels." Another dress - dusty pink, floor-length, made of thick silk - looks more like an evening dress. All models have very simple styles: otherwise the embroidery and ornaments will look too flashy. And the colors are mostly muted , although there are also several bright models. “Slavic women do not suit a riot of colors,” explains Svetlana. “But clients from the Caucasus also find something for themselves, they just need to be chosen more carefully.”

In these clothes it’s easy to feel like a Russian beauty - regardless of nationality

Svetlana admits: her brand is more inclined to art than to commerce. Some of her clients say they would like to pass these things on to inheritance. “We have two categories of buyers. One is very wealthy, very independent women. And the second is women with average incomes who save for several months and then order,” she says. “They write to us from different cities of Russia, especially often from Siberia Even if they don’t buy, they say: “Thank you for being there, we thought no one was doing this anymore.”

Svetlana is sure that most people have a distorted idea of ​​Russian style. And it’s important for her to show people: Russian clothes are beautiful. “I always say: Russian culture is five stars. And Russian fashion is high fashion,” she says. “When creating a thing, I always think: is this worthy of being considered a continuation of those traditions? It’s like I’m passing an exam every time.” .

Nina Samokhina, Secret Garden brand

“As a child, for some reason I was embarrassed to tell my mother that I wanted to sew. Once I bought lining fabric, green, with glitter - it seemed to me that the fabric was very beautiful, like silk,” says Nina Samokhina. “I secretly sewed myself a skirt for the New Year . It turned out to be a complete mess, I never wore it. Mom says: “It’s a lining, they don’t make stuff like that, why didn’t you ask me?” And I said: “I don’t know, I thought it was beautiful, but you wouldn’t let me buy it..."

Nina is just starting to work on her brand: so far she only had one large collection

Now Nina’s mother helps her daughter sew collections. And once she herself sewed and knitted clothes for her daughters. Once I remade an unsuccessful jacket that someone had given me: “The color wasn’t very good and the yoke was big. And my mother cut off the yoke, knitted a new one, sewed it on, made the lining from a rabbit... My sister later wore it. The jacket became a super hit, I still remember it ". Then, in the Soviet years and in the early 90s, everyone altered something, and Nina’s grandmother even made flowers from silk at home - they were worn as brooches. “It looks like Gucci,” Nina laughs.

That unfortunate skirt did not stop Nina - she sewed throughout her childhood. But I went to study as an architect, and there was no time for models. In 2014, she moved from Minsk to Moscow and was planning to enter the British Higher School of Design to study illustration. At the same time, I was preparing for the wedding and decided to sew my own dress. Then she even wanted to open a wedding agency, but instead she founded the Secret Garden brand.

So far, Nina had only one large collection - her diploma collection. “I wanted to make it entirely out of outerwear, but the curator said that it would be better for it to be more diverse,” says Nina. Outerwear I decided to study because there is not enough of it. Our mass markets are mostly Spanish, they don’t quite understand what minus 20–25 degrees means.” That’s why Nina’s collection includes a velvet bomber jacket (it’s insulated and designed for temperatures down to 22 degrees), a hat-scarf (“I call it “perlina”), a beige raincoat (“Dana Scully in The X-Files wore a raincoat all the time - I thought she was so beautiful!”) and warm coats. One of them is made from mohair Soviet scarves: “I looked for them all over Moscow, and then selected them by color. Mohair has a long pile, when you grind it down, you then need to go through it with a needle and pull it out of the seams - then the seams will not be noticeable.”

Nina says that her models have motifs from the Soviet past, although she didn’t really see this past - she is only 28. But in her childhood there were grandmother’s chests, Soviet patterns and old albums. “We were playing cards with my grandmother - she was telling me something... So for me this is familiar and familiar, although I didn’t experience it myself.” And she also has in her head a “mix” from the film “Amelie” and the cartoon “Prostokvashino”. "The palette there is very mine. All the colors - deep green, for example - are just right. And my mother there is very French - these scarves, the little basket... But at the same time, the interiors, the walls - everything is painted, just like we had. The whole atmosphere “I’m a native Soviet, and my mother is such a sweetheart.”

Nina reflects all this “Soviet flair” in her clothes. Even the velvet bomber jacket, which looks very modern, refers to childhood memories: “It’s big, round, looks like a ball. It’s like in the winter as a child, when they put five sweaters on you, a fur coat, a hat, and they also hold your scarf from behind.” There are also Russian folk motifs in her clothes: for example, one coat was tailored on the basis of a Russian shirt. And in one of the prints there are motifs of Russian tiles: “Before, I thought it was a shame to draw something similar: can’t you come up with anything? But you still recycle it, add your own.”

Nina especially loves prints - she is also an illustrator. She had a mini collection of colorful shirts. For one of them, the girl collected and digitized a herbarium: the result was a print with leaves. “In Britain, I was a bit of an alien. Everything there is usually laconic, architectural. But I wanted to do something funny. Although I understand that not all people are ready to wear it.” Nina had to give up “crazy retro shirts” with big bows: it turned out that for most of her friends this was too much. “I don’t want to go into “art” at all,” she says. “Clothing is a utilitarian item.”

Nina is an illustrator, and prints that she creates herself are important in her clothes.

Currently Nina does not have her own production facility. She works at home, side by side (or rather, back to back) with her engineer husband, sometimes stopping for yoga. Nina has several jobs: her own brand does not yet bring in enough income, she has to take orders. She makes some of her clothes herself and some of them in local factories. Sometimes items from collections are made for a specific buyer, tailored to his figure. " A good option“The item fits well, it’s definitely sold, everyone is happy,” Nina smiles. “It’s not like I have a whole closet full and no money.” She also doesn’t have a showroom yet, all sales are through social networks and friends.

Now Nina sews to order Wedding Dress- the second in my life. She is also working on prints with cats and fur coats from natural fur. “How do I see Russian style today?” Nina thinks. “It’s fur. Patterned. Warm. Fairy-tale. Ironic. With bright rich colors.” Sounds like a description of her future collections.

Furs, peacocks, fairy tales and hats for the Russian winter

Natalya Khovanskaya and Nastya Vyaz, Tsar Bird brand

“How difficult it is with the sleeves,” I say, trying on a soul warmer - something like a jacket with gathers at the waist. Her sleeves “let out” the arms just below the elbows, but do not end, but hang down like ribbons. “They only seem uncomfortable from the outside,” says Nastya Vyaz. “You quickly get used to them,” adds Natalya Khovanskaya. “It’s as if you had a servant: at first it’s strange, and then - as if it’s the way it should be.” In these clothes you really want to straighten your back and look around in search of a servant. And then sit on three horses and go somewhere to eat pancakes with caviar.

The creation of a model begins with the fabric - as Natalya explains, it dictates the style

Natalya is a classic Russian beauty: blonde hair, braid, transparent Blue eyes. Nastya looks like a Bashkir or Japanese: “Although everyone in my family up to the fourth generation is either Russian or from Ukraine. I don’t know why I turned out like this!” And together they create clothes from Russian fairy tales.

As a child, Nastya went to kindergarten in yellow blouse, similar to a tailcoat. Her mother sewed, wore hats and watched recordings of all the Weeks with her daughter. high fashion that I could find. At the age of eight, Natalya made herself a short green skirt from her mother’s favorite dress (she, of course, cursed terribly) and later continued to sew, but learned to be an economist. Nastya received a degree in physics, but worked as a stylist. Their brand was born when she began to select clothes for Natalia. “I realized that there is no adequate offer for those who suit Russian style,” she says. “These are either Pavlovo Posad scarves or dresses for half a million rubles. And we began to invent clothes ourselves.”

And then in London and Paris they started approaching girls and asking where they could buy this. “We jokingly said that we had our own brand, and people started asking for contacts,” says Natalya. So they joked that they founded Tsar Bird in 2017.

The girls wanted to “modernize” traditional Russian clothing, preserving its idea. At first, looking at soul warmers, fur mantles (similar to voluminous collars) and blouses, it is not very clear how and where they can be worn. But if you try it on, there will be no questions left. “When we created the mantle, I thought: God, what are we doing? Yes, it looks fabulous, but how practical will it be?” recalls Natalya. “And so I put on this mantle. And suddenly I understand how much I like it, how much I "It's comfortable. And for the first week I wore it without taking it off at all." Natalya also wears warm hats during the cold season, similar to Russian kokoshniks: “We made them specially because we wanted to look beautiful both in winter and summer.”

Now Nastya is mainly involved in design, and Natalya - in organization. Tsar Bird does not yet have its own production or showroom - things are sewn in factories and sold via the Internet. Most buyers are from Russia, but there are also some from abroad. The business is not yet profitable and does not even pay off, but, as Natalya says, according to all the canons, this is how it should be.

When creating the brand, Natalya and Anastasia saw their clients as women who took care of the house and children. But their clothes were more to the taste of actively working ladies, often with their own businesses. “It’s important for them to look beautiful and bright, but not to spend a lot of time on it,” explains Natalya. “And our things are self-sufficient, they don’t need to be supplemented with anything. You put on a dress, shoes, correct your makeup - and in a minute you’re ready to go out.” ". Tsar Bird also has male clients - they mainly sew shirts for them.

It’s hard to imagine yourself wearing these clothes at work or on the subway. But the girls explain: they want their clients to look bright every day

Doing something non-standard is always risky: you may not find your clients and go broke. But the girls are sure: if you create, then create something unique. “It’s pointless to sew pencil skirts and blouses,” says Natalya. “Everyone does it.” However, they also have a pencil skirt and a black blouse in their collection. I first put this blouse on backwards. “We always say: if you don’t know which way to put something on, then it’s definitely designer,” laughs Natalya.

Clothing in folk style or, as it is also mistakenly called, folk style.

Today there are such concepts as “folklore style”, folk style, ethno-folk, etc. But we would like to draw your attention to the fact that the word “folklore” is more related to the oral, verbal and musical creativity of the people. Folklore literally means “ folk wisdom“, and the concept of “folk” style in clothing developed as an erroneous understanding of Russian folk costume, the basis of which was the stage costume of folk ensembles, and not the traditional Russian folk costume!

The very concept of “folklore” has an indirect relationship to clothing.

We need to understand this difference well. Because the folk style is not what the modern Russian costume is in essence, but how they want to see us from the outside in modern world. Many researchers, ethnographers or reenactors contemptuously refer to folk costumes as “cranberry”. Especially cynical and bilious people call folk costumes or costumes of folk ensembles “Martian” costumes. But we do not consider the style of folk ensembles to be something unacceptable or offensive. Because modern Russian folklore costume was created for the stage, and when it is created without a hint of vulgarity or does not expose the body, it can be bright and beautiful example stage costume.

Often it is connoisseurs of the folk style who use patterns of household utensils or dishes such as “Gzhel” and “Khokhloma” to create prints on fabrics for sewing clothes. Of course, it looks kitsch and is inappropriate when creating a decent and complete image of the Russian style, but it is suitable for the folk style. Because, unfortunately, many people only know the “Khokhloma” and “Gzhel” patterns, and do not even suspect that this is not embroidery, but painting.

Dishes painted in the Gzhel style

Folk style implies only a shallow study of Russian costume and traditions, and the desire to shock or attract the public first of all. Folk style implies the presence of a viewer.

Folk style and folk style. Features and differences.

Clothing in folk style always transcends time and circumstances.

Folk style combines elements of national costumes of different nations. There is a folk style in India, China, Japan, Mexico... Russia... But you cannot combine elements of costumes of different cultures in one outfit: you cannot dress up in a sari, kokoshnik and cowboy boots, this will be ridiculous, unless, of course, you are a hippie.
From Russian style folk style It is distinguished by its nationality and brightness. The designer of Russian costume and Russian style today is Valentina Averyanova. Russian style includes both folk costume and boyar costume, and folk costume represents the clothing of the common Russian people. An excellent example of Russian folk style is Valentino spring 2015:

We will talk not only about how to wear folk-style clothes correctly, but also what the modern concept means: clothes in folk style.
It is customary to sew folk-style outfits from natural fabrics in natural colors. Embroidery, all kinds of patterned fabrics, lace, and braid will come in very handy.

Folk style requires following traditions; folk style is a modern interpretation and reflection on the theme of folk costume.

In folk style, you can easily make an applique on clothes or a pattern from patches, in a patchwork style. Yes, this is typical for patchwork quilts, but we remind you that the folk style implies such confusion and mixing different techniques, patterns and attributes. Geometric patterns fit perfectly within the folk style with the structure of the fabric. Beads, sequins, beads or floral motifs, especially in folk style - patterns with drawings of roses from Zhostovo trays, will also be appropriate.

If you want to emphasize your waist, a wide laced or leather belt will do. Folklore style will allow you to collect all the elements of Russian outfits in one look: sundresses, wide skirts, short fur coats. And in addition to them - large Pavlopasad shawls with tassels, accessories with Russian painting and wooden decorations.

Russian style national costume will emphasize a straight or trapezoidal silhouette. It will hide figure imperfections and will not hinder movement. Unfortunately, the folk style does not imply following the traditional cut of the Russian costume. To match the folk style, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the folk image, but it is not necessary to follow the cut. But if this is difficult for you, then you can simply complement a modern suit with details of a Russian costume, the main thing is their natural combination. All kinds of shoes are suitable: in summer - ballet flats or shoes, in winter - boots or boots. In everyday life, folk style is ideal for relaxation.

Each country has its own folklore traditions, but designers boldly use folk images to create original costumes. This is also a chance to preserve folk culture and the memory of our ancestors. A variety of natural jewelry, wooden beads, bracelets, and a variety of earrings are suitable for clothes of this style. Original outfits will help you attract attention, stand out from the crowd and emphasize your origin.
You can simply do many things yourself and save a little money. The main rule of folk style is not to mix clothes of different nationalities. There are holidays at which folk style of clothing is simply a must, but a wedding with a dress code is better to do it in the Russian style and take into account the origin of the bride and groom; if the ancestors are from a peasant environment, then you can have a bright and cheerful wedding with clothes in a folklore/folk style , if the ancestors were noble, then the Russian style and boyar costumes for the bride and groom are suitable.

There is absolutely no need to mix different directions in one image, even such a similar concept as ethno-style. Do not combine a boyar suit with kitsch, or a Russian headdress with a miniskirt - it looks vulgar, vulgar and inappropriate.

You should wear any clothes with pleasure, because a sincere smile and good mood will attract no less attention than a bright suit and defiant appearance. Comfortable clothes will give you confidence in your own irresistibility, and a folk costume will emphasize your love for your native country.