Having decided to write an article on the topic “Chemical peelings,” I did not doubt for a second that I would not be doing this alone, because in practice, cosmetologists perform superficial-medium, medium and deep peels, and perform superficial nurses in cosmetology. Therefore, in writing this article I took Active participation and mine " right hand" - Alexandra.

Everyone knows that since 2009, the profession of “cosmetologist” has officially appeared in Russia, a well-known division into “household services” and “cosmetology services” has taken place, and hair salons that offered “Botox injections” have become a thing of the past. Nowadays, medical centers providing cosmetology services usually employ cosmetologists and cosmetology nurses. And this is no coincidence. The initial consultation, of course, is carried out by doctors, but then there is a “separation of powers”, all injection procedures are performed by cosmetologists, and procedures without damaging the skin are performed by cosmetology nurses. These include all types of cleanings (including ultrasonic and mechanical), massages, cosmetic treatments, eyebrow and eyelash architecture, various options hair removal and depilation, as well as superficial chemical peels.

Chemical peeling

Today, probably not. better procedures, which simultaneously solves such a wide range of skin problems as chemical peeling. The properties of acids to renew the skin through controlled damage suggest solving problems such as seborrhea and acne, scars, age-related skin changes (in particular, static wrinkles), hyperpigmentation of various origins, rosacea, etc. Is chemical peeling a panacea for all skin imperfections? Let's find out in this article.

Chemical peeling is a controlled damage to the skin using chemical agents in order to correct the aesthetic imperfections of the skin. The chemicals used are preparations containing AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acids). Among the AHA acids, the most popular are lactic, mandelic, glycolic, and pyruvic. Among BHA acids, salicylic acid remains a favorite.

Chemical peels are classified according to the depth of impact: superficial (level of the stratum corneum), superficial-medium (work at the level of the entire epidermis), medium (impact up to the basement membrane with partial work at the level of the papillary dermis) and deep (up to the border of the reticular dermis). It should be noted that in cosmetology, superficial and medium peels are more often used. Deep peelings (phenolic) are currently performed extremely rarely, which is associated with the high toxicity of the drug (both for the patient and for the cosmetologist himself) and the development of hardware methods for correcting cosmetic defects, which are not inferior in effectiveness to deep peelings, but have minimal risk side effects and complications.

Question to the expert

Natalya Anatolyevna, you have been a recognized expert for many years in the field of chemical peels. How has the concept of chemical peels changed recently and what place do they occupy in modern aesthetic medicine at the moment?

Peeling without destroying the basement membrane (can be of different composition - chemical, enzymatic, retinoic; can be presented in different forms– lotion, gel, cream, mask, etc.) allows you to quickly and without consequences bring the skin into a presentable form, very carefully and safely stimulate its renewal, is a relatively inexpensive procedure of choice for the vast majority of patients and should occupy a strong position in aesthetic medicine . More traumatic types of peeling are also effective, but should be used less frequently and with more strictly verified indications. Over the past few years, I have only strengthened in this position, but the general situation demonstrates that nowadays, even during the initial visit to a cosmetologist, even patients who have no previous experience of non-traumatic care procedures are increasingly offered injection and hardware methods of influence. And patients, motivated by the media and the fear of not being like everyone else, of being irrevocably late in the fight against aging, sincerely believe in the correctness of this approach. At the same time, a paradoxical picture is often observed - many invasive expensive procedures have been performed, but the condition of the skin itself leaves much to be desired. And I just want to do a light, very superficial peel or mask and wipe the skin with lotion.

Selection of peeling

When choosing a peeling, we will rely on the following criteria:

1. The concentration of active ingredients, that is, the percentage of acid input (the higher the concentration of chemical agents, the stronger the peeling effect and the higher the result, but at the same time the irritating ability also increases).
2. Peeling pH. This indicator is often forgotten, but a change of just 0.5 can radically change the skin's response. For example, glycolic peeling with pH 2.5, when applied correctly, will provoke a gentle exfoliation of horny scales, lightening of pigmentation, stimulate the division of keratinocytes and enhance metabolic processes in the skin. However, glycolic peeling with pH 2.0 is no longer recommended for patients with subtype 1 rosacea, as it will provoke a vascular reaction.
3. Peeling texture: gel or in the form of a solution (water-alcohol). With gel, the depth of penetration depends on the exposure time, penetration is slow, and, accordingly, there is less skin irritation. Before neutralization, it must be washed off with water. With aqueous-alcoholic, the depth of penetration depends on the number of layers applied; it is necessary to wait for each layer to dry and very carefully monitor the skin reaction; if bright erythema or frost appears, immediately neutralize it.

The depth of chemical peeling and the number of procedures are selected individually by a cosmetologist or dermatologist and directly depend on the patient’s health (carefully collected medical history), age, skin condition and phototype. Recently, special attention has also been paid to profession and lifestyle, which is associated with possible rehabilitation (peeling, redness, the appearance of a feeling of “tightening”, etc.).

Skin phototypes: Fitzpatrick classification

There is a Fitzpatrick skin classification that describes the degree of skin pigmentation and tanning ability. This classification divides the skin according to risk factors for complications of chemical peeling. Fitzpatrick identifies six skin types, taking into account both skin color and reaction to the sun:

• Type I Celtic
  The skin is delicate, milky white, often with freckles, red or very blonde hair and blue or green eyes. The formation of melanin in the skin is insignificant, sunburn is possible, the tan practically does not last (more often residents of Ireland, Scandinavia, Scotland. Example: Renee Zellweger, Nicole Kidman)
• II type. Light European
  Typical blondes. The skin is fair, with few or no freckles. The hair is light brown, from light brown to gray brown. Eyes blue, gray, greenish. The tan does not apply well, leaving a slight golden tint (approximately 70% of the European population. Example: Marilyn Monroe, Charlize Theron)
• III type. Dark European
  Skin color changes seasonally. IN winter period the skin is light and has a high contrast with the hair. IN summer period When tanning, the contrast between skin and hair sharply decreases, and the skin acquires a dark tint. Hair ranges from medium brown to dark brown, medium brown to dark brown. Eyes from light brown to dark brown, gray-green, dark green (population of Kazakhstan, Central Asia. Example: Natalie Portman, Audrey Hepburn)
• IV type. Mediterranean or Southern European
  Dark olive skin. Hair ranges from dark brown to dark chocolate color. The eyes are rich brown shades, the iris contrasts sharply with the bluish white of the eyes. Skin of this type quickly acquires an even bronze tan (representatives of Armenia, Italy. Example: Monica Bellucci, Salma Hayek)
• V type Indonesian, or Middle Eastern
  The skin is very complex with yellow tint. Hair ranges from dark brown to black. Eyes are rich brown, closer to black (residents of China, India, Korea. Example: Lucy Liu, Nicole Scherzinger)
• VI type. African Americans
  The skin is very dark (ethnic). Hair and eyes are as dark as possible. This type has the highest level of melanin (indigenous population of the African continent. Example: Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell)

For our region, phototypes I to IV are most relevant.

Patients with skin types I and II and significant levels of photodamage require constant sun protection before and after a chemical peel procedure. However, the risk of developing hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation in these individuals is quite low. Patients with skin types III and IV after chemical peels are at greater risk of pigmentary dyschromia - hyper- or hypopigmentation - and may require pre- and post-application of not only a sunscreen, but also a bleaching agent to prevent these complications. The risk of pigmentation disturbance is not too great after a very superficial or superficial peel, but it can become a significant problem after a medium or deep chemical peel.

The use of peelings: pros and cons

Let's take a closer look at the skin renewal process, dividing its pros and cons.

Positive effects of peelings associated with effects at the level of the epidermis and dermis:

1. Chemical acids stimulate the division of keratinocytes, enhance the synthesis of signaling molecules; the epidermis becomes denser, elastic and homogeneous.
2. The growth of new blood vessels begins, which are necessary for delivery to the area of ​​restoration work building materials, cellular elements, as well as the removal of metabolites.
3. Under the influence of growth factors, fibroblasts are activated, which begin to build a collagen framework. This framework facilitates the movement of keratinocytes that restore the epidermis.

This process leads to smoothing of the skin, increasing its firmness and elasticity.

However, it is important to remember side effects of chemical peels that arise due to non-compliance with post-peeling care or an incorrectly selected procedure:

1. Keratinocytes (the main cells of the epidermis - the surface layer of the skin), experiencing stress, release substances that stimulate the process of melanin formation, which can ultimately trigger the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
2. The occurrence of persistent hyperemia (redness).
3. Exacerbation of a dermatological disease (most often in their practice, cosmetologists encounter an exacerbation of herpes infection).
4. Scars (most often occur after medium peels; it is for this reason that these techniques can only be performed by certified specialists).

The history of chemical peeling goes back more than 3,000 years; back in the day, milk fermentation products (lactic acid) were used by Egyptians to lighten their faces. In the 1980s, after studying the effects of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and phenol on the skin, the first chemical peel procedure was performed in the United States. In Russia, the procedure appeared relatively recently - in the late 90s, but today it is one of the most popular, carried out in a cosmetology office.

Expert opinion

I would clearly distinguish between the meaning of non-traumatic peels, which do not lead to irreversible changes in the skin, and peels that damage the basal layer.

I deliberately avoid the terms “superficial” and “deep”, since there is no single attitude on this issue.

For those who deal primarily with invasive techniques, peeling throughout the entire epidermis, but without destroying the basal layer, will still be superficial, and for those who are afraid of even minor peeling and redness, simply contact with living epidermal cells will be a sign of a deep effect. And these can be both doctors and cosmetologists with secondary medical education. I have seen many dermatologists who are afraid to apply even a cream or lotion with a small concentration of acids to themselves.

So, from the point of view of the “efficiency/safety” profile, in my opinion, are various options exfoliation within the stratum corneum with infrequent (2-3 times a year) deepening to the layers of living cells, without damaging the basal layer. This kind of peeling should be one of the main tools of a cosmetologist. Recovery after such peeling occurs quickly and completely. According to my observations, people who receive regular, very careful and non-aggressive care, part of which, if necessary, includes light peeling, combined with compliance with basic rules healthy image life, maintain good skin condition for a very long time. And if heredity is also good, then there is no need to resort to skin-damaging manipulations at all.

But this is from the point of view of common sense and a non-commercial approach to the problem.

In fact, on the one hand, there is an increase in the comfort of life and the emergence of free time, which allows you to think too much about your beloved self, which means that you are increasingly afraid of old age, “ugliness,” and inconsistency with fashion trends invented by someone.

On the other hand, there is an overproduction of not only goods, but also ideas, which are not always optimal and necessary, but allow you to make money.

And the change in trends and preferences occurring in aesthetic medicine is not so much the result of truly scientific achievements as a reflection of the processes taking place in society.

Recently, in some countries, including Russia, there has been a shift towards the use of injection and hardware techniques. This is fashionable, well advertised, and is subconsciously perceived as a more radical method of influence, since a syringe or complex equipment is traditionally associated with something more effective than a tablet or ointment. And, what is very important, it is profitable; per unit of time, you get significantly more profit than when performing treatments, massages, or teaching gymnastics. It is very difficult for all participants in the process (doctors, patients, and manufacturers) to accept that despite enormous technological progress, we are still very far from the ability to radically influence the processes that determine age and other characteristics of the body. “We are flying into space, which means that cosmetic devices and high-tech preparations should decide everything,” - this is the logic that is typical for many. Under the influence of these factors, doctors believe much more in injections and devices than in simple manipulations, including superficial peeling.

It is no coincidence that I say “doctors believe” and not “doctors have proven, doctors know”, because despite the ever-increasing requirements for training, the increasing number of congresses and conferences, the general level of understanding of what is truly proven facts and what is desired , wishful thinking remains low. Everyone wants to “rejuvenate” and effectively “rejuvenate”. And this determines the perception of information and practical data: we see what we want to see, we believe in what we want and it is profitable to believe. In fact, very simple and accessible effects are still relevant for complete skin care.

Silky, healthy-looking facial skin is not only a gift from nature, but also the result of caring for it. Professional methods are more effective, although home methods should not be ignored. One of the common procedures is chemical peeling for face . Several types are used, each providing a different degree of effect on the skin.

Read in this article

The essence of the procedure

During peeling, a chemical composition is applied that removes the top layer of skin or affects deeper areas. Essentially this is a burn, but it helps to get rid of dead cells, excess fat, and traffic jams.

The procedure also causes a protective reaction in the tissues. Healthy cells of the collagen and elastin layers of the skin begin to actively divide, which leads to rejuvenation. The result is:

• increasing hydration and elasticity;
• disappearance of small wrinkles and smoothing of deep ones;
• lightening the surface, evening out the overall skin tone;
• removing stains.

Face after chemical peelingneeds rehabilitation, which has different durations. The skin turns red, peels, and crusts may form on it. But when it is completely renewed, it becomes much better than before the procedure.

Indications for use

Chemical peeling can be done from the age of 18. It will also help those over 25, and is also effective for older women. With the help of acid peeling, you can cope with many shortcomings:

• increased greasiness and clogged, enlarged pores;
• acne and the unevenness and spots left behind;
• weakened skin turgor;
• fine wrinkles and more pronounced facial folds;
• age spots;
• noticeable scars;
• bad complexion.

Contraindications

If a woman is going to do chemical peeling of the face, contraindications - the first thing she should know about. These include:

• dermatological diseases of inflammatory and other nature;
• intolerance to the components of the drug;
• pregnancy and breastfeeding;
• any infection, including skin infection;
• oncology;
• mental disorders, epilepsy;
• laser procedure performed less than six months before;
• pronounced rosacea.

About what important points It’s worth knowing before starting a chemical peel, watch this video:

Preparations for the procedure

Chemical peeling of facial skin carried out with acids. They affect the surface with different intensities:

• Products based on hydroxy acids. These are all fruity and glycolic, providing a gentle effect on the skin. They belong to the category of alpha hydroxy acids. They are fruity and help nourish the skin with moisture, so they are more suitable for extreme dryness. Beta-hydroxy acids also belong to this group.

These substances penetrate deeper into the skin, therefore they are able to regulate the functioning of the sebaceous glands, more energetically stimulate the rejuvenating processes in it, and cleanse it carefully but efficiently. The most commonly used drug is salicylic acid. Alpha and beta hydroxy acids are found in the preparations Jan Marini, MD Forte, Cosmedix, Agera RX, LA Peel.

• Products whose main component is trichloroacetic acid. It comes in different concentrations, so there are preparations for medium and deep peels. In the first case, 25 - 30% substance is used. For a deep effect, a concentration of 40% is needed. This series includes the drugs “Skintech Peel”, “Compositum”, “Obagi Blue Peel”, “Cosmedix”.
• Products with retinoic acid. Designed for so-called yellow peeling. The preparations also contain ascorbic acid, phytic acid, and vitamin C. In beauty salons they use products from the companies “Mene and Moy System” and “Mediderma”.
• Products containing phenol (carbolic acid). They also come in different concentrations, so they are used for medium or deep effects. These are the drugs “MC Peel”, “ Green mask" and others.

Preparation

Effective chemical peeling procedure for the face impossible without a preliminary stage. Preparation begins 2 weeks before exposure and includes:

• use of skin care products with vitamin A;
• taking oral antiviral drugs if the patient often has herpes;
• carrying out superficial peeling 10 - 14 days before the middle peeling;
• Using sunscreen before going outside to prevent your skin from getting tanned.

Is anesthesia necessary?

During the procedure, different layers of the skin are injured. This can cause pain or at best discomfort. However, with superficial peeling the sensations are quite tolerable; it is only a slight burning sensation. Therefore, anesthesia is not needed.

Medium peeling is a more serious effect. During the procedure, the discomfort may be stronger, so an analgesic is taken before the procedure.

Deep peeling has an even stronger effect on the skin. It removes the entire top layer (epidermis) and affects the dermis. Therefore, the procedure is more like a surgical operation. It is performed by a plastic surgeon with the help of an anesthesiologist. And in this case general anesthesia is given. But some time ago, gentle formulations for deep effects appeared. With them, an injection of an anesthetic drug is sufficient.

Technique

When they talk about the features of the conduct that differ chemical peels for the face, types – the main thing that defines them. How each procedure goes:

• Deep peeling begins with anesthesia. If there is general anesthesia, the patient’s condition is also monitored using a cardiac machine. Then comes a thorough cleansing of the skin with detergent and a hard sponge. After rinsing the skin with water, blot it with a napkin and degrease it with alcohol. Then the drug with phenol is applied. For a more uniform distribution, the second stage is the application of a polymer composition - jelly.

The patient lives for a couple of days with a mask formed on her face. Then it is removed along with the top layer of skin and a drug with antibiotics is applied.

• Medium peeling is also preceded by facial cleansing., but with the help of lotion. Next, it is dried and treated with an antiseptic. The main preparation is applied with a brush. It can also be rubbed into the skin for a more noticeable effect. There are from 1 to 4 layers of the product; they remain on the face for 5 - 20 minutes. All this time, discomfort from exposure is eliminated with a stream of cool air.

TO When a white film forms on the surface, the drug is removed using an alkaline composition. Then the skin is treated with a disinfectant and emollient.

• Light chemical facial peeling(superficial) begins with the application of cleansing foam, which remains for a couple of minutes. Then it is washed off and the main product is applied to dry skin. When it is absorbed, you can apply a second layer. After 10 minutes, the composition is removed with a damp cloth or neutralizer. Dried skin is treated with tonic and moisturized with a special product.

Skin care after

The skin remains traumatized as a result of peeling, so on the day of the procedure you should not touch it, you should not even wash your face. The face may look swollen and red. Then a film forms on the skin and it begins to peel off.

Care includes:

• Washing with mild products 24 hours after superficial exposure, 2 - 4 days after medium exposure. requires treating the face with antiseptics until a dry film and crusts form on the skin.
• Apply Bepanten or Panthenol spray to the flaky face. This can be done a day after a light peel, 2 - 4 after a medium peel. At the same time, the spray is applied to the deeply exposed face. Use the product several times a day for 15 - 20 minutes, then blot the skin with a napkin.
• When the dry film and crusts come off, you can use regular moisturizing cosmetics. And before going outside, you should apply sunscreen.
• From other caring procedures, sunbathing, baths, swimming, sports and decorative cosmetics should be abandoned for now. You should also not peel off dry scales, films and crusts. They should fall off on their own.

How often is a chemical facial peel done? , depends on the condition of the skin and the type of exposure. She will be ready for the next superficial or midline procedure in 7 to 14 days. The course consists of 4 - 10 sessions. Light peeling can be done every 4 - 6 months. It is enough to carry out the average impact 1 - 2 times a year. Deep peeling is a once-in-a-lifetime treatment.

Possible complications

Complications after peeling

Most of them arise when rehabilitation requirements are ignored. Sometimes the cause of complications is the incorrect actions of the doctor.

Price

The price for the procedure depends on the type, number of sessions, and level of the clinic. Superficial peeling costs 900 - 2500 rubles. per session. Medium procedure - 2000 - 10,000 rubles, deep impact - from 25,000 rubles.

Women are more interested in the effect than the price. The best chemical peels for the face It’s hard to name, it depends on the type of skin and problems with it, the age of the patient. Fruit acids relieve inflammation, almond acid rejuvenates, phytic acid eliminates greasiness and smoothes wrinkles.

Glycolic acid is most often used and has multiple effects. In some cases, salicylic peeling will be the best; with age, you can decide on phenol peeling. You need to choose together with a cosmetologist.

Chemical peeling for the face is one of the most common services of beauty salons and specialized clinics. Reviews of such rejuvenation are in most cases positive. An additional advantage of chemical peeling is its relatively low cost.

Chemical facial peeling has earned its popularity due to its high efficiency. It is possible to obtain the desired result in 90% of calls to specialized specialists working with problem skin. The price of manipulation depends on the severity pathological condition, neglect of the process, age of the patient. The cost is also affected by the qualifications of the clinic staff and the number of defects on the face.

A correctly performed chemical peeling procedure for the face does not cause complications, promotes skin tone and improves synthesis. hyaluronic acid, elastin and collagen. It is quite difficult to achieve acceleration of metabolism and tissue regeneration in any other way. Performing chemical peeling on your own at home is strictly prohibited.

Chemical peeling of the face

Modern cosmetology is developing rapidly. Over the past years, many different chemical agents have been studied to provide high-quality peeling services on the face without harming other tissues and the general health of the patient.

The most commonly used acids for chemical peeling are:

• retinoic (stimulates lipid synthesis, the process of melanin production, accelerates cell growth);
• kojeva (chemical peeling of the face with this substance prevents skin aging and has an antioxidant effect);
• phytic (removes the upper layer of the dermis by exfoliation and prevents severe irritation);
• azelaic acid (has an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect after chemical peeling on the face).

Of course, this is an incomplete list of substances used in cosmetology. It is necessary to mention trichloroacetic acid, vitamin C, phenol and many other elements.

Types of chemical peels for the face:

1. Superficial - affects only the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
2. Median - penetration to the basement membrane.
3. Deep - renewal of the connective framework and cellular composition to the entire depth of the skin.

Chemical peeling of the face should only be performed in a specialized institution. Moscow boasts a huge number of such clinics and beauty salons. Therefore, choosing your master will not be a problem.

Preparation

Before chemical peeling on the face, you must follow several recommendations from a specialized specialist. There is no need to think that it is possible to perform skin rejuvenation in one session. At the very least, it will definitely not be possible to get a visible effect from hasty influence.

The first thing you should do is make an appointment with a dermatologist. Chemical facial peels may worsen acne or severe irritation. Do not perform the described procedure without your doctor's approval. cosmetic procedure forbidden.

If during the examination no severe pathologies or contraindications were identified, you can begin to prepare for chemical peeling on the face. To do this, a few weeks before the procedure, professional cleaning skin using salicylic or fruit acid.

Chemical peeling using the TCA method or other methods is not recommended for excessive tanning. Therefore, the patient should refrain from visiting a solarium or traveling to hot countries.

Procedure

The cost of chemical facial peeling may vary slightly depending on the quality of the equipment and the qualifications of the specialist. Most often, you can find out the preliminary price of the procedure by visiting the official website of the clinic. There you can make an appointment and first examination.

The actual procedure of chemical peeling on the face is performed in several stages. First, using an applicator, rub the prepared solution into the skin (from the forehead to the nose and jaw). Then the face is covered with a special mask made of a cotton napkin. The duration of wearing such a device is determined by the specialist based on the results of preliminary diagnosis and assessment of the condition of the skin.

Light chemical peeling of the face affects only the superficial layers. This is the most gentle and fastest skin rejuvenation procedure. Most often, at least 4-6 sessions are required to obtain a visible effect. With the help of this effect, patients get rid of wrinkles and small irregularities.

Medium chemical peeling can affect part of the epidermis and the stratum corneum of the skin down to the dermis. The service solves problems such as sagging, loss of elasticity, firmness of the skin, helps eliminate age-related changes and small dark spots, scars, stretch marks. In Moscow, such manipulations are performed in cosmetology clinics.

Pretty deep chemical peeling dangerous procedure, requiring special equipment and experience in influencing all skin cells, right down to the papillary layer of the epidermis. Such treatment is allowed only once in a lifetime. The high toxicity of phenol can cause unpleasant complications.

You can also mention the less popular, but quite effective chemical yellow peeling. Cleansing temporarily turns the face orange. The technique helps against aging dermis, pigmentation and acne scars.

Rehabilitation period

This type of treatment, such as superficial chemical peeling of the face, does not require any additional follow-up actions. When performing deep cleaning, the doctor makes recommendations based on the tolerability of the procedure.

Typically, expert advice is aimed at protecting the restored layer of skin. After the service, it is not recommended to stay in the open sun for a long time, or visit saunas or steam baths. Chemical peeling of the face makes the skin more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation.

Indications

Chemical peeling of the face becomes a real salvation for women with skin problems. This procedure is allowed at any age and rarely causes serious complications.

Reasons for performing chemical peeling of the face include:

• excessive pigmentation;
• pathologies of the protective function of the skin;
• dryness and flaking;
• age-related changes.

With the help of chemical peeling, you can moisturize, lighten the skin, improve its appearance, and prepare for plastic surgery.

Contraindications

The ban on chemical peeling applies to people with inflammatory lesions of the skin on the face, intolerance medicines and anesthetics, neoplasms or colloidal scars. Pregnancy and lactation are also contraindications for chemical peeling.

Possible complications

Negative consequences of chemical peeling occur very rarely. Usually, unpleasant complications result from medical error and non-compliance with recommendations during the rehabilitation period. Possible exacerbations of herpes, skin infection, allergic reactions, standing erythema on the face.

Prices and clinics

Chemical facial peeling with glycolic acid or other types of cosmetic solutions is permitted only in a specialized institution. By contacting a hospital consultant, you can find out how much chemical facial peeling costs and how to properly prepare for the procedure.

Posting ads is free and no registration is required. But there is pre-moderation of ads.

Chemical peeling for face

The word “peeling” comes from the English “to peel” - “to cleanse”, “to remove the skin”. This is really for the purpose of improving it appearance and general condition. A special place among various peelings is occupied by chemical facial peeling. With this peeling, it is not mechanical exfoliation that does not exclude a violation of the integrity of the skin, but the dissolution of dead cells of the surface layer of the skin upon contact with the peeling components. As a rule, the active components of chemical peeling are organic acids.

Types of chemical peels by depth of effect

Superficial peeling has an effect within several layers of keratinized cells of the epidermis. It is the most gentle type of chemical peeling. After it, you can continue your normal lifestyle. Mainly recommended for young problem skin. The effect does not last long; repeated courses are required.

Medium peeling affects the entire stratum corneum of the epidermis to the basement membrane. After this peeling, home treatment is required for a week, as the face remains hyperemic and fine- or large-plate peeling occurs. It is carried out to solve specific problems, as well as to combat age-related changes in the skin. The effect lasts a long time, repeated courses only after a year.

Deep chemical peeling– rejection of the epidermis affecting the basement membrane. The procedure is quite responsible and carried out under anesthesia, since it is nothing more than a chemical burn of the facial skin followed by regeneration of the epidermis. It is performed in a hospital and is aimed at removing deep wrinkles and scars. The effect lasts for a very long time, up to several years, but can be done only once; the rehabilitation period lasts about 5 months.

Main objectives of chemical peeling

1. Exfoliation (peeling) of keratinized cells of the epidermis leading to proliferation (reproduction) of cells of the basal layer, that is, to the renewal of the entire skin.

2. Elimination of skin imperfections and problems as a result of exfoliation and thanks to the specific properties of acids.

3. Mobilization of the protective and regenerative functions of the skin due to the stress action of acids.

Skin before and after chemical peeling

Why do you need a chemical peel?

Chemical peeling is often the procedure of choice when correcting cosmetic defects facial skin and other parts of the body. As a result, patients receive:

Improving the appearance of the skin - it becomes smoother, softer, and has an even color

Disappearance of pigment spots, acne effects, scars and stretch marks

Normalizes skin pH and sebaceous gland function

Rejuvenation of facial skin by smoothing wrinkles, increasing skin firmness and elasticity due to increased collagen synthesis

Good mood and increased self-esteem

Indications and contraindications

Indications for chemical peeling

Indications for chemical peeling

1. Problem skin(post-acne, acne, comedones)
2. Presence of hyperpigmentation
3. Skin with low tone, not elastic, flabby
4. Age-related skin changes
5. Photoaging (skin exposed to excessive UV radiation)
6. Presence of scars and ingrown hairs
7. Oily skin with enlarged pores
8. Thickening of the stratum corneum of the skin, causing it to become uneven
9. Dull skin tone
10. Preparatory stage before more serious and in-depth cosmetic procedures.

Indications for chemical peeling by age

1. Adolescent age from 14 years as prescribed by a doctor according to indications.

2. 25-30 years for acne, post-acne, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, to prevent skin aging.

3. 35 and older age groups for the purpose of prevention and treatment of cosmetic skin defects and as preparation for other cosmetic operations.

Contraindications for chemical peeling

Absolute contraindications for chemical peeling:

1. Any chronic diseases in the acute stage
2. Colds
3. Pregnancy and lactation
4. Tendency to form hypertrophic and keloid scars
5. The need for radiotherapy
6. Fresh tan
7. Recently (less than 8 weeks ago) traumatic procedures performed (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, laser resurfacing)
8. Mental illness
9. Individual intolerance to certain peeling ingredients
10. Taking immunosuppressants, retinoids, medicines having a photosensitizing effect
11. Severe rosacea
12. Oncological diseases
13. IV–VI skin phototypes determined according to Fitzpatrick
14. Skin diseases (eczema, allergic dermatoses, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, etc.) in the acute stage
15. Infectious skin diseases (viral, bacterial, fungal)
16. Violation of the integrity of the skin, injuries in the area of ​​peeling
17. Poor wound healing
18. Diabetes mellitus and hypertension

Relative contraindications for chemical peeling:

1. Multiple nevi
2. Hypertrichosis
3. Increased sensitivity skin
4. The patient is under 18 years of age
5. Menstruation

Mechanism of action of acid peeling

1. Damage to the epidermis (chemical burn).

2. In response, skin cells begin to intensively produce inflammatory mediators, signaling molecules, and enzyme growth factors.

3. The mitotic activity of basal cells increases (cells are actively renewed).

4. New vessels are formed and the production of fibroblasts is activated, leading to the synthesis of new collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans and enzymes.

5. The dermis is compacted and thickened and all layers of the skin are moisturized.

The structure of the skin

Knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of the skin is necessary to understand the mechanism of action of certain cosmetic procedures.

Leather- This is not just a shell covering the human body. This is a full-fledged organ that performs a number of specific functions and has a complex structure. The mass of the entire skin is approximately 5% of body mass. There are approximately 5 million hairs on the surface of human skin. For every square centimeter of human skin there are on average 100 pores and 200 receptors.

Complete renewal of young skin occurs in 28 days; with age, this process slows down every year, and the stratum corneum will thicken and become uneven. And also the thickness of the stratum corneum can thicken under the influence of ultraviolet rays.

Human skin has a constant pH of 3.5-5.6, if it shifts too much, skin problems such as rashes or irritations may occur. pH up to 3.5 (acidic environment) is typical for dry skin, pH greater than 5.6 (slightly acidic environment) - for oily skin. And it could also be mixed skin when the skin type is different in individual areas. And therefore, in order to choose the right cosmetical tools, you need to know your skin type.

The structure of the skin is divided into three main layers - the epidermis (the surface layer of the skin), the dermis, or the skin itself, and the subcutaneous fatty tissue (hypodermis). Each of these three layers has its own layers, appendages and elements.

The most significant layer of skin in cosmetology is the epidermis. Its structure is multilayered. The epidermis produces the pigment melanin, the amount of which determines the color of the skin and its intensity.

Fat-soluble substances, unlike aqueous solutions, penetrate well into the epidermis, since cell membranes contain a large number of fats and these substances seem to “dissolve” in cell membranes. There are no blood vessels in the epidermis; its nutrition occurs due to the diffusion of tissue fluid from the underlying layer of the dermis.

The basis of the epidermis is the basement membrane, the germinal layer of intensively multiplying cells that replace those that die and slough off every day.

Above the basal layer is the spinous layer, the cells of which have spine-shaped processes. It is here, in the intercellular space, that lymph circulates, providing nutrition and metabolism in the cells of the epidermis.

Above the stratum spinosum, the granular, shiny and horny (uppermost) layers of the epidermis are successively located.

Epidermal cells

1. Keratinocytes- these are the cells of the spinous, basal and granular layers; they are in constant motion. They are formed due to the division of germ cells of the basement membrane located at the border of the epidermis and dermis. They mature and move from the lower layers to the upper ones (from the spinous layer to the granular layer), during which time keratin (a very strong protein) accumulates in keratinocytes.

2. Corneocytes are formed at the end of the life course of keratinocytes and are a cell without a nucleus and main organelles, something like a “bag” filled with keratin. Corneocytes are dead cells that form the stratum corneum and are flat scales. They perform the barrier function of the epidermis.

Corneocytes move further upward, and when they reach the surface of the skin, they peel off and new ones take their place. Corneocyte renewal occurs on average within three weeks.

Corneocytes are held together by a special substance, which consists of a double layer of special lipids - ceramides (ceramides). Ceramides (ceramides) molecules have hydrophilic “heads” (water-loving fragments) and lipophilic “tails” (fat-loving fragments).

3. Melanocytes- these are cells that are located on the basement membrane among the germinal layer of the epithelium; these cells produce melanin. This pigment performs a protective function and protects a person from infrared radiation and partially ultraviolet radiation. Also, the color of the skin depends on the saturation of melanin. In some cases, the formation of age spots depends on the condition of the basement membrane.

4. Langerhans cells, which perform a protective function against foreign bodies and microbes.

5. Merkel cells- These are tactile cells that are found in the basal layer of the epidermis. They effect skin sensitivity. Most of them are in the skin of the fingertips, on the tip of the nose and erogenous zones.

Beneath the basement membrane is the skin itself, or dermis. It contains the papillary and reticular layers. The papillary layer borders the epidermis. The papillary pattern on the palms and feet is nothing more than papillae of the dermis visible through the epidermis. Below is the reticular layer, which contains sebaceous and sweat glands, hair follicles, nerve endings (skin receptors), as well as collagen and elastic fibers.

The elasticity and strength of the skin directly depend on the presence of elastic fibers and the amount of collagen in the dermis.

The subcutaneous fat layer is located under the reticular layer of the dermis and performs shock-absorbing and warming functions.

The mechanism of action of acids on the skin

Organic acids are used for chemical peels. For the superficial - fruit, for the middle - trichloroacetic (TCA), for deep - phenolic and trichloroacetic of higher concentration.

Acid, when exposed to the skin, depending on the concentration and exposure, dissolves the keratinized cells of the upper layers of the epidermis, and sometimes the entire epidermis, down to the basement membrane.

In other words, when applying the peeling mixture, we receive a controlled chemical burn to the skin of the face. Unlike a traumatic burn, here the depth of acid exposure is clearly controlled by a cosmetologist - this allows us to solve exactly those problems of the patient that brought him to the cosmetology clinic.

Fruit and some other acids have an exfoliating effect, which is achieved by weakening the adhesion (cohesion) of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. In response to increased peeling, active division of cells in the basal layer is triggered.

They also have a moisturizing effect on the skin as a result of accelerated renewal of the epidermis, since on the surface of keratinocytes there is a complex of hygroscopic molecules, or the natural moisturizing factor NMF. This factor is found in greater quantities in young cells.

Chemical acids have a stimulating effect on skin fibroblasts and thereby promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen.

The stress theory also explains the increased synthesis of the intercellular substance of the dermis. In response to stress, the skin's protective systems are activated. The skin is mobilized, the reparative activity of skin cells is enhanced, and the synthesis of vital molecules is accelerated.

The result will be a thinning of the epidermis and a thickening of the dermis layer. The surface skin becomes firmer and more elastic, and small wrinkles are smoothed out.
Acids normalize lipid balance, cleanse the ducts of the sebaceous glands, thereby reducing oily skin and preventing the appearance of comedones and acne.

By exfoliating dead epidermal cells, a whitening effect is achieved. Plus, some acids act on the production of melanin, and thereby also help lighten the skin.

Stages of chemical peeling

1. Pre-peeling preparation. Purpose: adaptation of the skin to acid and leveling of the top layer for better penetration of the peeling composition. It begins 1-2 weeks before the procedure. Use preparations containing low concentrations of acids.

2. Peeling. Goal: to obtain the desired result depending on the choice of active acid. Conducted according to protocol. The concentration, pH and exposure time are chosen by the cosmetologist.

3. Post-peeling care. Goal: to avoid complications and consolidate the peeling result. Means for home care A cosmetologist prescribes skin care, and you must follow all his instructions. And also be sure to use sunscreen with a protection factor of at least 30 SPF.

Properly carried out pre-peel preparation, professionally performed peeling, as well as properly selected post-peel care significantly reduce the risk of complications. All expected reactions and complications are well described in the article by O.V. Zabnenkova Candidate of Medical Sciences, senior researcher at the laboratory for the study of reparative processes of the skin at MMA named after. THEM. Sechenov.

Photos before and after chemical peeling

Phenol peeling

Jessner Peel

Fruit acids

Peeling using fruit acids is extremely popular due to its gentle effect and the almost complete absence of discomfort during and after the procedure.

Fruit acids are used for superficial peeling, and are so called because one of the main sources of these acids is fruit. True, they contain them in concentrations that are very different from peeling ones.

The most commonly used is glycolic (hydroxyacetic) acid. Its use helps to gently smooth the skin texture and normalize the production of melanin and keratin. After glycolic peeling, collagen synthesis increases, which gives the skin additional firmness and elasticity. Glycolic acid has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and stimulating effect, as a result of which the patient receives an excellent rejuvenating effect from the procedure. Of no small importance is the use of glycolic acid for the prevention and treatment of skin diseases such as molluscum contagiosum.

In addition to glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, and pyruvic acids are used for superficial chemical peeling. All of them exfoliate the stratum corneum of the epidermis well, but each of these acids has specific characteristics. For example, pyruvic acid is good for sensitive and weakened skin, increasing its density and elasticity, protecting against moisture loss and strengthening the skin barrier function.

Lactic acid, on the contrary, has a delicate softening effect, regulating hydrobalance and providing an anti-inflammatory effect. Peeling with lactic acid is especially valuable because it can be performed at any time of the year, without the fear of developing hyperpigmentation, as with other peels.

However, peeling with fruit acids is suitable only for young patients whose skin has a high regenerative potential. Problems of mature skin are solved by other types of chemical peeling.

Acids used for medium peeling

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA peel) and salicylic acid are used for medium or superficial-medial peeling. High concentrations of TCA - 40-35% - are already classified as deep effects; this is equivalent to surgical cosmetology and requires special conditions for implementation.

Medium peeling, and, accordingly, the acids used in it, are designed to solve age-related skin changes - such as stretch marks, post-acne scars, superficial hyperpigmentation, wrinkles around the eyes, forehead, upper and lower lips. The effectiveness of the procedure is comparable to laser skin resurfacing.

A distinctive feature of TCA peeling is the frost effect (“frost”)—the treated area of ​​the skin turns slightly white. This is a sign of protein denaturation and the formation of a barrier film that prevents further penetration of acid deep into the skin. The cosmetologist determines the exposure time depending on the skin type - dry, thin and sensitive skin On the face, frost appears literally in the first or second minute of peeling; on the skin of the body, where it is necessary to remove postpartum stretch marks - the exposure is approximately 10-15 minutes.

After TCA peeling, the skin especially needs care - moisturizing, protection from ultraviolet radiation, stimulation of regenerative processes in the skin. Peeling with trichloroacetic acid done only in autumn-winter period When sun activity is minimal, the likelihood of stimulating pigment formation in renewed skin is very high.

Salicylic acid is used for medium peels due to its ability to cause deep and severe peeling. The acid content in the peeling composition can reach 30%. Typically this is a 20-25% solution of salicylic acid in isopropyl alcohol.

Action of acid -

Chemical peeling (an alternative name is chemical exfoliation) is becoming increasingly relevant among cosmetic procedures. This method of cleansing the surface of the face is highly effective and low-traumatic. In addition, this effect on the skin allows you to solve age-related problems of the dermis.

Although the very word “chemistry” often causes mistrust (if not horror) among patients, in fact such an intervention is not at all scary. Of course, in the hands of an amateur, a container with solutions will bring nothing but problems to the skin. But high-quality cleaning performed by a cosmetologist-dermatologist will leave a pleasant impression and give your face a renewed and well-groomed appearance.

Chemical peeling – what is it? What are the features of this procedure? Who is it suitable for, and in what cases should it be avoided?

What is a chemical peel? This procedure involves exfoliating the upper layer of the epidermis, consisting of dead, dead cells. Such manipulation is carried out with special preparations. This cleaning method allows you to smooth out or completely remove age spots or other defects, even out the surface of the face, and give it a natural shade.

Women who decide to undergo this cleansing for the first time often wonder: chemical facial peeling - what is it? It’s not for nothing that this method is called “derma renewer”. In addition to their cleansing functions, acidic compounds perfectly rejuvenate cells, launching the processes of collagen and elastin synthesis. Thus, chemical exfoliation is a universal procedure that solves several cosmetic problems at once.

Why do you need a chemical facial peel? Its primary task is to exfoliate the upper, keratinized layers of the epidermis, thereby creating a cleansing effect. This technique allows you to improve the condition of the dermis without surgery.

This procedure is also used to prevent the processes of integument withering or to correct existing age-related changes.

After chemical peeling, the skin becomes soft, cleansed and renewed.

How does peeling work? Acid exfoliation is a burn of the upper layers of the epidermis. Although this sounds scary, there is nothing scary in this formulation, because the depth of the drug’s effect is controlled by a cosmetologist. In response to a burn, the body launches recovery mechanisms, due to which it is possible to achieve rejuvenation and renewal of the integument, as well as solve multiple cosmetic problems.

Under the influence of a burn, active division of dermal cells begins, the regeneration process accelerates and the appearance of facial skin improves.

There are the following types of chemical peeling:

• deep peeling;
• middle cleansing;
• superficial exfoliation.

A cosmetologist will help you determine which type of chemical peeling for the face will be best in a particular case.

For your information. In case of existing indications, you can conduct sessions of unconventional, original cleaning, for example, blue peeling, etc.

Deep

Deep chemical peeling of the face involves burning the dermis down to the mesh layer. This manipulation is carried out exclusively in medical centers. The patient is given anesthesia, and the procedure itself is carried out under the supervision of an anesthesiologist-rheumatologist. Deep peeling involves a long rehabilitation period (6 to 10 months).

For your information. If the procedure was carried out without anesthesia, and the patient was sent home the same day, provided only with auxiliary means, it is time to suspect a catch. Most likely, under the guise of deep cleansing (for the appropriate price), a middle cleansing of the facial surface was carried out.

The main goals of deep exfoliation are:

• replacement of an outdated collagen-elastin frame.
• Stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid to provide optimal levels of hydration from within.
• Renewal of cellular resources of the dermis.

Average

Medium (medium) chemical peeling of the skin acts deeper and more thoroughly than the superficial one. But he is unable to renew the collagen-elastin framework and completely renew the dermis.

For your information. Competition among cosmetologists has provoked an unprecedented surge in the popularity of medial exfoliation. Often they begin to use it from the age of 18. But until the age of 35-40, there is no need to practice such a procedure unless absolutely necessary.

The main goals of this skin cleansing method are:

• Active cell renewal in upper layers dermis, its smoothing and compaction.
• “Pulling up” the level of collagen production to the previous, “young” level.
• Strengthening vascular walls, improving blood microcirculation.
• Slowing down melanin synthesis.

What does your face look like after acid peeling? Basically, such manipulation does not cause pain or negative reactions of the dermis. But in some cases, post-peeling scars or areas of skin with hypopigmentation may form, sharply contrasting with the rest of the skin.

Surface

Superficial chemical peeling of the face has almost no effect on the deep layers of the dermis, affecting only its upper layers. That is, such drugs do not contain the necessary active components for cell renewal.

In cosmetology, there are several main purposes of surface peeling:

• Stimulation of renewal of the upper layers of the dermis.
• Cleansing the sebaceous glands.
• Exfoliation of dead cells.
• Antibacterial effect.
• Elimination of hyperkeratosis.
• Alignment of the surface and tone of the dermis.
• Inhibitory effect on melanocytes, which control hyperpigmentation.

• People with teenage or young skin prone to oiliness, acne, acne or post-acne.
• For patients aged 25-35 years, to maintain good skin appearance and solve skin problems.
• People 35-40 years old as preparation for deep exfoliation.

The chemical facial peeling procedure includes the following steps:

1. Skin cleansing, makeup removal, degreasing of areas where the composition is planned to be applied.
2. Cosmetologist wets a cotton applicator in chemical solution, squeezes it out carefully. The last action is performed to avoid the drug getting into the patient’s eyes.
3. The doctor rubs the solution with an applicator into the client's facial skin (this takes about 30 minutes). The specific time depends on the characteristics and general condition of the skin.
4. The “route” of movements is built in this way: forehead – nose – cheeks – chin. With maximum care, the drug is rubbed into wrinkles and creases. During work, the patient may feel a slight burning sensation.
5. Keep the composition on the face. The time is determined individually for each type of dermis.
6. At the end of the chemical peeling procedure, the drug is removed from the surface of the skin.
7. Application of protective and regenerating mask compositions.

The chemical peeling procedure for the face requires the use of special preparations. They are selected according to the individual characteristics of the client’s dermis. The main components of these solutions are:

• Beta hydroxy acids.
• Fruit acids.
• Other types of acids: azelaic, retinoic, kojic, trichloroacetic, pyruvic, mandelic. Most often a combination of these acids is used.

Fruit

The so-called AHA acids or alpha hydroxy acids. These include citric, glycolic, malic, lactic and tartaric acids.

Main properties of AHA acids:

• Stimulation of hydration of the epidermis.
• The ability to accelerate the exfoliation of the upper layers of skin.
• Antioxidant effect.
• Damaging effect on pathogenic organisms, which are the main cause of dermatological diseases.

Beta hydroxy acids

The so-called BHA acids. Unlike fruit acids, these acids are poorly soluble in water and well soluble in fats.

Chemical peeling with BHA acids is used mainly for oily skin. These substances have a similar effect to AHA acids, additionally affecting the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Under the influence of such acids, sebum softens, which prevents the formation of acne, urea and comedones.

The main representative of beta-hydroxy acids is salicylic acid.

Retinoic, kojic, azelaic

Includes all properties inherent in hydroxy acids. These substances also reduce the activity of melanocytes by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The effect after peeling with these acids is predominantly whitening - pigment spots, freckles, acne and post-acne disappear. Peeling with these acids is relevant for clients suffering from rosacea.

Popular preparations for chemical peeling:

• Russia. PREMIUM Professional.
• Australia. Skin Doctors (products suitable for home use).
• Japan. Bb Laboratories and
• USA. NeoStrata.
• France. BeautyMed.

Despite the obvious benefits, chemical peeling of the face has contraindications and side effects. The latter do not always occur, but only in a number of cases when the recommendations for the procedure were not followed or due to the individual reactions of the patient’s skin.

Acid peeling can provoke the following consequences:

• Swelling.
• Pain syndrome.
• Scar formation.
• Redness.
• Introduction of infections.
• Allergy.
• Hypo- or hyperpigmentation.
• Peeling of the skin, formation of crusts.

The cosmetic procedure of acid peeling has the following contraindications:

• Pregnancy, breastfeeding.
• Colds.
• Chronic diseases in acute form.
• Tendency to form scars.
• Fresh tan.
• Traumatic procedures performed less than 2 months ago (laser resurfacing, deep cleaning, etc.).
• Mental illnesses.
• Oncological diseases.
• Hypertrichosis.
• Nevi, warts, papillomas on the face.
• Skin hypersensitivity.
• Injuries in the area of ​​application (abrasions, wounds, scratches).
• Hypertension.
• Individual intolerance to the ingredients of the composition.
• Cuperosis.
• Menstruation.
• Patient's age (less than 18 years).

What results can you expect from a chemical facial peel? This indicator will also be individual, because much depends on the client’s skin type. There are 4 main skin types. Peeling can be carried out on each of them, but with different results.

1 type No wrinkles, the client needs three peelings using weak acids. The procedure aims to prevent aging and is carried out once a year.

Type 2 The presence of facial wrinkles in the corners of the eyes, deep creases during the manifestation of emotions, there are local areas of hyperpigmentation. Sevenfold peeling with fruit acids is recommended. It needs to be done twice a year.

Type 3 Impaired pigmentation, wrinkles around the eyes, mouth, and forehead. Regular peeling with fruit acids is recommended.

Type 4 Disturbed pigmentation, multiple deep creases on the surface of the skin. In these cases, fruit acids are not enough. It is recommended to cleanse three times with trichloroacetic acid and further peels with glycolic acid.

The best results after chemical peeling are usually achieved by the epidermis of skin types 2 and 3. But representatives of type 4 can also count on improvement in their skin condition, provided that the specialist does the right thing.

After chemical peeling, the face becomes cleansed and renewed. High-quality exfoliation helps achieve additional results:

• Skin rejuvenation.
• Softening, giving velvety to the surface.
• Toning.
• Regeneration.
• Smoothing fine wrinkles, reducing deep ones.
• Tearing out the skin texture.
• Elimination of pigment spots.

Summary

Chemical peeling for the face - modern and effective method skin cleansing. This procedure is suitable for those who want to have a clean face, as well as for clients who want to restore youth to their skin. After applying acid peeling, the skin regains its beautiful freshness, even tone and softness.